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My ti frame needs a riv nut replacing
ANyone done this ?
Do you get ti riv nuts for ti bikes ?
I have a propper sealey riv nut setting tool from setting a bunch in my lr chassis , a bunch of alu riv nuts and a numerous cutting/drillling tools to get the old one out...
Before i attack my prized td-1 has anyone actually done this successfull ? My thoughts are , pilot hole through the remains of the stuck bolt , use a countersink drill in the pillar drill to remove the top of the riv nut - then remove the bottom half via the top tube hole.
I would try a file on the old rivnut to check if it's aluminium, I've not heard of Ti rivnuts but that means nothing.
I'd just grind/file the head off the rivnut and push it into the frame, no messing around with drills.
See thats why i asked 🙂
That makes sense , the steel bolt in the middle might make progress slow but it is alot more controlled than driling i will admit,
Just done one myself, very careful grinding job on the flange, until thin enough to bend up with snipe nose pliers. Then pushed it through. I have stainless ones here if you're interested.
What's up with the old one? Is it loose or totally threaded? Also, if you pop it through into the frame, can you get it out?
If it's just loose you can just tighten it with a tool.
It sounds like the bolt has snapped.
Just seen the "stuck bolt" bit on the OP. I would flatten the top, centre dot the top then centre drill. Slowly step up the drills. Chances are that as you get close to the original thread root dia it will drive the remaining thread out. Then a quick clean out with a tap.
Strange, delayed double post.
I've had them out by drilling when fitted to thick walled mild steel. I think in a bike frame probably best to get rid of the old and have a new one in. If drilling through and the nut snags on the bit, there's a chance of deforming the tube and tearing out the hole.
Bolt siezed in.
Riv nut spins now.
Heads missng - bolts flush with the riv nut near enough,
So it has to be removed - its a cable boss bolt.
I've got stainless ones here if you'd prefer that to aluminium. Off the top of my head, I think that would be a better combination, let me know.
Cheers will do some research and get the old one out . Might give you a shout cheers
I'd grind it down very carefully too.
Nice and slowly, with a little left to bend up, then drive it back into the frame.
Just make sure the frames breather hole in the headtube/bb is big enough to get the remains out. I've had this before and had to use some PU squirty foam to stop it rattling around inside as it was trapped.
Practiced removing one from an old frame and fitting a new one.
File is tool of choice.
Pressed it into the tube. Dropped it out the headtube,
Fitted a new one- using a proper riv nut setter is a delight. I have used a spacer a bolt and a nut. But the nut generally strips before you can get a decent tension into a propperly loose riv nut .
The riv nut tool got it propper tight in only a few seconds.
Im impressed. Glad i saw it going cheap- the one i bought (sealey hd)was reduced to 55 from 120 i've been watching them for a while 🙂