You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
I'm giving my FS a full overhaul..
Forks are going off to TFT on Thursday, and I've a replacement bearing set to swap tehm over (one pivot bearing is DEFINITELY loose and rattly..)
It's internally routed, with plastic guides running through.
The Specialized website suggests to leave the SWINGARM tubing in place, and release it from the headtube end...
I'll likely do this (having to remove rear brake hose and gear cable), and was going to run some 'blank' cable outer through it, so that I can just thread it back over when I put it all back together..
Any other hints and tips to make the whole process easier? Many thanks!
DrP
Errrr... take it to the LBS?
That’s what I did as it seemed like it would be a major PITA.
Nah... these hands were made for fixin' !!
DrP
I agree, sounds like one of those slightly annoying but satisfying jobs to do...once all done.👍
As suggested, remove the hose at the lever end so you'll only need to bleed the lever. Use the little double ended Sram barbs to both blank off the open hose, and attach your spare hose to pull through with. The barbs also work with the gear cables provided you don't pull too hard ( if you do, the liner breaks off).
Surely there will be more risk of fluid loss from lever end than rear end as cable needs removed from more tubes?
I'd disconnect from caliper and do a bleed once refitted as you'll add air along the way.
It was easy enough on my 2016 camber so I'm sure it will be fine on a newer model. The swat box made it easy to access the sleeves which was a bonus.
Sorry... I wasn't clear..
I'm not talking about the hydraulic/gear hosing - that's all coming out..
I'm talking about the plastic INTERNAL hosing (erm) hose, that acts as a guide..
Specialized have pipes inside the frame, you pass the gear/brake hosing through...
I'm going to have to pull THAT out in order to free up the rear triangle bits!
DrP
Ah ok, sorry, totally misunderstood the chat (not familiar with how Specialized have sorted the internals).
How much threading is needed if it is unplugged from the back end? Is it more or less than from the handlebar end? Or are you removing the sleeve things completely anyway (if so, it won't make any odds)?
Can you not leave the guide in the main frame then just re thread through the chainstay later?
Mrsstus Stumpy Evo doesn't have any plastic guide tubes in and that wasn't that difficult to re cable.
Dropper cables on Kenevos are a totally different matter though...
So to ME the logical thing would be as suggested above - leave the tubing connected at the head-tube, and just slide it out of the swingarm end.. but the specialized documents say to do it the OTHER way!
I wonder if this is because the tubing is now cut to length and fits the frame, so it'll be easier to guide it back into the 'exit port' at the head tube end?
Just wondering if anyone had done it, so as to offer tips etc!!!
Oh well... will do what the book says, and if you hear my screams from the South Coast, you know it's gone badly!!
DrP
having done mine a couple of times its easy enough to do by swappint the bearings in the upper link first and re fitting it then doing the main pivots. The rear pivots (horst) are really well sealed and ive not replaced them yet in 2 years!!!! the main pivot died quickly.
Easiest method is tapping them out with a probearingtools rawl bolt. Its the easiest bike ive ever worked on.
the main pivot is the one that's died... the link bearings are brand new, as they came in a Cascade link i recently fitted...
Reckon I'll be able to get the main pivot bearings out without even taking the swingarm off by much then?? just tilting it a bit??!!
DrP
yup easy, both bolts out and you can pivot it away with the shock removed.
watch that driveside bolt though. mine rounded easily.
I wouldn't be in a rush to completely remove the cables. Just did a new shifter outer on a 2019 stumpy alloy last week and it was more awkward than most. No internal guides in alloy though, just foam as far as I could tell. Shock out and chainstays/seatstay pivots removed and that gave me decent access to the BB ports and the cable exit hole at the mech end.
I can't see any reason you cant do the main pivot bearings by just getting an inch of slack and shifting stuff just out the way.
Also just did main pivots on a 2017? Carbon Enduro. Bearings were toast and the inner race separated from the outer on the first pull. Removing bearings with the outer races only is "great"
Prepare yourself for an ejection of bearing balls.
Well I popped the bike in the stand yesterday and managed to change teh main pivot bearings without removing any cables..
In reality, it would have been easier to do the actual bearing change with the whole swingarm removed, as it was a bit tight getting the DIY bearing press up against the frame - a bit of mild stretching of the cable routing needed! But all done.
I guess if I'd wanted to change ALL the bearings, that too could be done with the cables still in (the seat stays have nil running through them, so could simply whip them off.
The FST bearing pair will be a bit harder - ideally I'd like to have the swingarm on a firm bench, but I'm sure I could mock up a second stand etc...
Anyway... wasn't too challenging with a variety of sockets acting as bearing presses!!!
Abd it's not rattling any more!
DrP
good work.
i did all of mine in the stand without removing cables.
Good stuff to know...
A bit annoyed I spent £40 on a whole bearing set, when I jsut needed the 2 pivot ones for now!! Oh well!!
DrP