[Closed] Removing a super tight fixed sprocket - Will heating it up help?

What chain whip are you using ? I've found that on a well used  fixed gear anything other than. A park sr 2.2 is pissing in the wind.

It's generally torque rather than corrosion that causes them to be tight so I wouldn't expect heating to do anything meaningful

Edit I may have the wrong guy but I recall from previous your near Aberdeen ..... How near I may be able to whip it off for you save you spending monies.

Can you put it back in the bike and back pedal/stamp on the crank? Wear shin guards.

Could try rotafix method

Heating would work if you have one of those very direct heating things that only heats the specific area.

Heating will help a bit by expanding it but if the hub is alloy that expands more with heat so you need to heat the sproket and cool the hub

Cheers all.

Trail_rat - well remembered! However I'm in Inverness now. Thanks for the offer though!

Probably a stupid question - if a proper track hub, have you removed the lock ring? And you do know the lock ring is left hand threaded? (many apologies if you already know this)

Just looked at that Rota fix clip. I might give that a try.

In terms of heating it I was thinking of using one of those cookery blowtorches that you use for making the crispy topping on a creme brulee.

Yes, lock ring removed.

As above, locking removed, support the bottom bracket to lift the back wheel off the ground, drive side cranks facing rearward and see if a firm stomp on the pedal will shift it. You'll probably need someone else to hold the front of the bike down.  If the sprocket is expendable, wheel off and backed into a corner and a firm hit with a big flat-bladed screwdriver.

Technique is all, how are you trying to remove it?

I found bracing the wheel against your shin or something solid and bracing yourself too, helped get good torque. AS long as you have a good tool fnaar.

Update - heating with the blow torch + the Rota fix method linked by kerley above = success!

Didn't require excessive force to shift it either.

Thanks all for your advice, especially kerley.

I normally "bus driver" it. Wrap the cog in old chain and stick it in a vice, grab a handfull of tyre and rim and pull.

Then i started using miche cogs that solved the problem.

If you don't have a vice you can still use the bus driver method.  Take off a pedal and  stick a suitable bar through the hole  so it can wedge on the chainstay then turn the wheel backwards.

Then i started using miche cogs that solved the problem.

I went even further and changed to a Halo Fix G many years ago.  I ride brakeless so can't be wondering whether my locking will have loosened and was getting problems with normal screw on sprockets due to the reverse forces when braking.

I can now change a sprocket in a few seconds and adjust chainlink to be sub mm perfect.