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Reluctantly going tubeless after too many Hawthorne strikes.
Although my Vittoria gravel tyres go up with just a track pump, my new Vittoria CX tyres are proving trickier.
Invested in the Beto surge tank which seems to get unanimously good reviews, dumps a tank of air into the tyres in 4 seconds apparently.
Except... mine does nothing, I'd swear I could pump faster! Does anyone else have one, are they just a bit fickle or should it pop the tyre up instantly?
It's so poor I should have legitimate cause to return it but postage won't be cheap...
Remove valve cores if you haven’t already.
Was trying to remove cores but gave up, Pacenti must have loctited them in place! It dawned on me though that the air is seeping out of the Beto tank pretty slowly even when detached from the wheel, I don't think it's the valve that's stopping it...
My beto tank has been fine. Definitely check Tyre is seated correctly and go for minimum 160psi before inflating.
Remove valve cores and spray some soapy water on the beads, if you still have the valve core in then it doesn't matter what tubeless inflator you're using.
Hope you didn't get it from Tredz? I sent one back a few weeks ago as faulty as it wouldn't hold air (leaked when you stopped pumping the track pump)...
Would hate to think they'd just pop it back into stock!
Replaced it with a Birzman tank, which seems to work brilliantly even though you can't use it with the valve core removed.
All the videos and reviews I've seen have the valve core in...
Didn't get it from Tredz, but yeah, there is some leakage once you get past 120psi.
Time to send it back I think 🙄
Really is best to remove the cores. Once the tyres are seated you can then remove the pressure and squirt the sealant in through coreless valve then reinstall!
Then you can do all the seating faff without having sealant sloshing all around.
The soapy beads is good advice, even neat washing up liquid which also helps a little getting them to seal.
As for the tank, sounds faulty to me.
Get the cores out! Then pump like a proverbial on the track pump!
You don't have to remove valve cores or soapy water for all tyres, but whenever I've had a stubborn tyre then those two methods have always worked. A valve core is so easy to remove it seems silly not to surely.
Put a tube in and inflate the tyre with plenty of pressure . This will seat both sides of the tyre on the rim bead
Then deflate and CAREFULLY remove one side of the tyre leaving the other side seated on the rim
Remove the inner tube and then apply some neat washing up liquid to the tyre bead
Add your sealant, fit the tyre and then inflate with core valves removed
You should be good to go!
Definitely not escaping from the tyre? I'm the too baggy tyres on a particular rim I had to use zip ties to hold the tyre near the bead even with an inflator.
My beto inflator has been great. Other than the weird setup above it works every time.
Definitely sounds like the inflator isn't working right.
I've got the Lifeline pump/inflator and that dumps 250psi in only a few seconds.
I wouldn't expect it to be leaking at 120psi.
BETO air tank user. No problems, no leaking, never failed to seat a tyre and don't usually remove the cores or take it to 160 psi. I only use it if the track pump fails initially. It also holds air well and dumps it in pretty quickly. One set of tyres did require more pumping on top, I think it was Vittoria Torreno Mix on WTB i19 rims. I sometimes use a small amount of silicon grease smeared around the bead of the tyre to help it seat properly on the rim and I am still alive and able to type this...
Sounds like yours isn't quite right.
I have a beto tank, its rubbish, it takes about 4 seconds to empty even when not connected to a tyre. Which is 3.75 seconds too slow.
Its in the shed unused.
I bought a trackpump/tank combo from crc, that dumps its air in a second and inflates 2.5 mtb tyres instantly.
I would at least try and borrow another inflator first.
This is mine, its brilliant.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/lifeline-airblast-tubeless-tyre-track-pump/rp-prod155451
Definitely not escaping from the tyre? I’m the too baggy tyres on a particular rim I had to use zip ties to hold the tyre near the bead even with an inflator.
This is the only situation where I had to give up on tubeless. If the tyre is too loose and air escapes all the way around it I found that it just wouldn't go up even with an airship type thing.
I don't believe tyre is too baggy, was pretty tight to install anyway.
Will just need to accept defeat and start messing about with soapy water and tie down straps and removing valve cores etc. etc.
Had really hoped the air tank would have been the silver bullet that would make all of the above redundant, this is exactly the sort of faffle and guesswork that made me give up on tubeless first time round ☹
The beto for me was the magic bullet, though I always take the core out (did it this way years before getting any inflator). I was using a diy plastic bottle before which was a faff, leaked and you couldn't put the pressure up that high. The beto was just so simple compared. Although I don't I can leave the beto charged up for days. It does sound like yours is not right.
Will time how long it takes to empty then probably send back.
Is there a better solution than soapy water for the beads? Had always thought it might dilute the sealant somehow...
With a little space for it in my garage and a bit of eBay shopping I opted for a full hobbyist size compressor when I went tubeless and as a matter of course I use a little soapy water and remove the valve core for all of the tyres I fit.
Straps around the tyres are where it seems to become a faff to me. A jug of soapy water to hand and a valve core tool really doesn’t seem too much trouble at all.
Sometimes when I have had that problem, the valve hasn't been between the two beads properly, so the air was coming out the sides instead of going into the tyre. A little fiddling with that has made the difference between tyre going up and not
Sounds like you just need to get the air tank replaced with one that works.
If the tyre is too baggy, some more tubeless tape takes up that gap, if the gap is too big, and you've not removed the valve, no inflator will seat it.
The tyre being a but tighter means the watery soap won't really dilute the sealant either.
I keep meaning to buy a proper inflator, but the 1l coke bottle DIY one I've been using for years now keeps rolling on. 2.6 Mary popped on first time yesterday.
Valve core removal often means a decent track pump will do the job if you pump quickly. I have an old Dettol spray bottle filled with water and a squirt of washing up liquid, you can just spray a light mist on the outside bead so very little dilution would happen.
I don't know what the resistance to soapy water or removing the valve core is? Pop tyre on rim. Remove core. Load air-shot. Small soapy sponge around both sides of the rim. Dump air. Pop pop pop. Disconnect air shot. Add sealant via syringe through the valve. Pop core back in. Reinflate. Swirl the wheel around. Put wheel back in frame. Go for a ride.
I have had stubborn set-ups before (mostly road tubeless) which usually are to do with leaking tape or valves, and failing that, an inner tube pumped up overnight under a new tyre usually means setting it up tubeless the next day is pretty straightforward.
start messing about with soapy water and tie down straps and removing valve cores etc. etc
Removing valve cores isn't messing about... it's 10 seconds of making life easy. If you managed to get the tyre on in under a minute then it's too baggy .... if not then 1min or 1 min 10 secs seems acceptable.
Is there a better solution than soapy water for the beads? Had always thought it might dilute the sealant somehow…
Why does that worry you? I just run neat or 50/50 fairy or whatever round the bead then spray with water...if some part doesn't seal then you get nice bubbles to tell you where.
I pulled a nail out of a tyre Saturday ... bounced it about and the tyre sealed ... went and rode it on a set of dirt jumps at 40 psi - why worry????
Don't discount the air tank being faulty, I had one a few years back (may have been a Bonty one, I cant remember) and it never gave the rush of air I was expecting.
After a few months I questioned it with my LBS and it turned out to have a faulty valve that never fully opened so I got some air, just not the sudden blast I should have had.
I've a Beto tank and it's been okay; it doesn't seem to force the air out too quickly but then it's the only tank I've had so don't have a comparison.
On some really baggy tyres I've had to use the tube trick but another approach is to hook a tyre lever under the bead and then run it around at 90° to the rim (on both sides). This pulls the tyre bead up onto the shoulder of the rim bed rather than sitting in the middle channel (you can usually feel things tightening up as you go); it can make a huge difference.
If you managed to get the tyre on in under a minute then it’s too baggy
Rubbish.
Echo what others have said - no way that it should take that long to empty the air tank.
I've used a DIY coke bottle one and then made one from a fire extinguisher as I was a bit worried about the bottle getting damaged and going bang.
I always pop the valve cores out, sometimes the tyre goes up with a track pump but the rest of the time the extinguisher does the trick (bit of soapy water on the bead every time btw).
I've had issues with a really loose tyre, but it went up eventually.
Yes, I can probably put a tube in and get that inflated and ready to ride more quickly. But then I'd have to deal with punctures out on the trail in the cold and wet, run higher pressures etc.
For me, the small amount of faff is acceptable for the massive benefits.
Hope you get it sorted. If you're local to High Peak you're welcome to come and grab my extinguisher inflator thing and borrow it for a while. Can disinfect it and leave it outside so covid safe rules can be followed.
Si
Rubbish
Come on then lets see a video 😉 .... tyre and sealant onto rim and ready to inflate in a minute without spilling any...
It's quite possibly possible but I reckon a minute is pretty quick...
(I end up doing lots of timed challenges for fun as the kid always say's "that'll take ages". )
As above:
1) it sounds like your tank is faulty. Send it back. I can throughly recommend the airshot - it is better then the combined pump / tank I had before. It’s so simple I’m not even sure how it could go wrong. I bought one of the neoprene sleeves to go over it so it doesn’t get all scratched up etc.
Bottle sock:
Airshot:
2) Take the valve cores out. The little plastic core removers that come with valves aren’t fb rear - especially if you’ve got a stubbornly tight core. I’ve got one of those red anodised Stan’s core removers per the below link. You can probably find them cheaper on eBay or a rip off version too.
3) sealant through the valve - one of these is good for that:
4) if it’s really stubborn then a weak water / washing up liquid mix will help - but using the airshot it’s popped pretty much anything up without that.
If you managed to get the tyre on in under a minute then it’s too baggy
Tosh. I'd suggest if it's taking more than a minute then your going to be in for a rough ride when you do puncture out on the trail. Or have feeble hands.
Sounds like the valve core is clogged to me. Take it out, soap the bead and make sure you’ve got 160 psi in the Beto - that a lot of pumping. I bounce the wheel as I fill which moves the tyre a little and helps it seat.
If that doesn’t work then it’s usually the tape that’s leaking or the valve is not fastened on to the rim tightly enough.
Come on then lets see a video 😉
When we see a video of you doing these dirt jumps!
Tosh. I’d suggest if it’s taking more than a minute then your going to be in for a rough ride when you do puncture out on the trail. Or have feeble hands.
Try timing it ... including getting it all lined up correctly etc. without spilling sealant.
Not including the last 2 with tyre inserts it's not a case of feeble hands but getting the thing properly aligned on both sides.
I had one of those Beto tanks for a day or two. It wouldn't seat an awkward tyre, and my Dad's Airshot did it immediately.
Sent the Beto back and got an Airshot.
Sometimes when I have had that problem, the valve hasn’t been between the two beads properly, so the air was coming out the sides instead of going into the tyre. A little fiddling with that has made the difference between tyre going up and not
Have had this too. Even if it is between the beads, if it's a loose tyre, a little bit of massaging to spread the beads and then gentle pressure on the tyre above the valve to keep the beads pressed against the rim can make a difference.
That said, it sounds like your inflator isn't working right.
Thanks all.
Will have a play. Resistance to removing valve cores largely because A) I've always thought that was a poor solution, tiny wee delicate cores and easily rounded plastic tools never seemed ideal. Will look at
an alloy tool.
Oh, and B) I already tried to remove them, they're so tight the valve just started spinning in the rim instead (see: faffle 🙄 )
Just use pliers to remove the cores no special tools needed
Yup, pliers. Just out of interest, how were you planning on getting the sealant in there after you'd inflated the tyre?
**** this shit.
I thought the days of ghetto tubeless bodging were past but nope, despite shelling out for all the 'proper' kit, even making sure I bought the same brand rim strip and valves as my rims, I'm still having to **** about removing valve cores, spraying soapy water all over everything, buggering about trying to 'half' seat the bead with a tyre lever (hint - it doesn't work if the bead is now all soapy) and just generally pumping away like a lunatic on my track pump, it still doesn't inflate.
I guess now I need to buy another £20 worth of rim tape and play 'guess how many wraps' to ensure I've got the magical amount that the tyre seals, but not so much that I can't take the fupping thing off trailside.
Just out of interest, how were you planning on getting the sealant in there after you’d inflated the tyre?
Well more fool me I shelled out for Stan's 'Race' sealant as, you know, I wanted something that actually worked as in a past life I'd been through the whole disheartening experience of watching tiny little jets of sealant piss out through pinprick holes in the tyre. Apparently you can't inject Stan's Race so IF and WHEN I get the tyre seated, I'll need to un-seat it all over again to put the sealant in...
I'm mostly just angry at myself, I told myself years ago I was never going to put myself through all the aggro again, I just figured this time the kit might have moved on a little bit...
Edit: aaaaand breathe. I appear to have gone full Badger. More rim tape on order, will try again next week perhaps...
tiny wee delicate cores and easily rounded plastic tools never seemed ideal
11G spoke key...
Apparently you can’t inject Stan’s Race so IF and WHEN I get the tyre seated, I’ll need to un-seat it all over again to put the sealant in…
Or, just remove the valve cores first, inflate the tyre (bet it pops straight on) and squirt sealant in 🙂
Nah, won't inflate even with valve cores out, and I think Stan's Race sealant will clog a valve won't it? That's why you're only supposed to pour it in with the tyre unseated.
To be honest I'm going nowhere near the sealant until I can reliably and repeatedly get the tyre seated.
Try timing it … including getting it all lined up correctly etc. without spilling sealant.
Not including the last 2 with tyre inserts it’s not a case of feeble hands
Go look at the redbull TV Mx tire race. Apparently even Warner can replace an Mx tire quicker than all that faff.
To be honest I’m going nowhere near the sealant until I can reliably and repeatedly get the tyre seated.
Have you got the beto air tank fixed yet ? Your pissing in the wind if not
Go look at the redbull TV Mx tire race. Apparently even Warner can replace an Mx tire quicker than all that faff.
That seems to be 3m18 and the sealant seems to be invisible.
Regardless the point is or was taking out a valve core takes almost no time compared to fitting the tyre with sealant in to the point of just being able to inflate it, checking its over the valve and sitting decently.
Have you got the beto air tank fixed yet ? Your pissing in the wind if not
No... I kind of hoped that if I followed all the advice above, the tank might end up redundant.
I did try it again and to be honest it doesn't seem far off 4 seconds to dump all the air (with valve core out).
The rim tape is the only thing I haven't tried. It's got two wraps of the correct width tape but I fitted it a year ago, so might as well replace just to rule it out AND give it three wraps just to be sure.
Might just stick some tubes in and go experiment, the tubeless ready tyres are 50g heavier than the Conti clinchers I took off, so perhaps there's enough extra material in the tread to ward off the Hawthorne...
4 seconds to dump the air into the tyre is ages. The Airshot takes about a second or two max. I think the Beto is your issue here.
I use clear gorilla tape as I struggled with getting "proper" rim tape to go on evenly (and regular gorilla tape is an arse to get all the adhesive off when you need to replace it).
It's a little thicker too so maybe that helped with getting the tyres seated with a track pump.
Where are you based - maybe someone close by has a working inflator that you could borrow - that Beto one you have sounds useless...
Si
I had a bit of a nightmare introduction to tubeless tyres when I converted - I couldn't get my rim tape to stay in place (ended up at the LBS having them do it) and my first set of tyres were so tight they just wouldn't pop into place (another trip to the LBS who struggled too but finally got them to pop into place with a lot of GT85 and pressures of over 100psi. My second set of tyres were so loose I couldn't get them to inflate at all (seating with a tube and pulling the beads up onto the rim bed shoulders with a tyre lever sorted it).
But when you pull an inch long hawthorn out of your tyre and it seals in a fraction of a second and you're off again it really is all worth while.
Yeah but the Beto is bigger I think so might be delivering same flowrate as an airshot but twice as much air in total. Either way need to time it properly, have emailed Merlin in the meantime about an exchange.
My buddy bought a compressor which boasts 3CFM free air delivery, which is 1.4l/s. I didn't think that sounded much but right enough, that's probably twice what an Airshot can deliver. Don't really want to sink £120 for a compressor and gubbins though.
I think someone gave you the answer on the last page. Put a tube in, blow it up and leave it overnight. Then unseat one bead, remove tube and inflate.
The extra wraps of tape I've never really understood - if the tyre is tight it's going to make it really hard to get on the rim at all, and how does it help inflation?
The extra wraps of tape are to create as much of a seal as possible between the tyre and rim tape BEFORE it pops on, this way the air doesn't seep out around the sides and instead does what it's supposed to which is pop the bead on!
I agree though, 3 wraps seems like a lot, I always thought one or two was the norm.
Haven't tried seating one bead with a tube actually, had just left tube in over night to 'stretch' tyre. Have a nasty feeling the bead just popped off once I took tyre out, although that might just have been my clumsiness...
I bought one of the Lifeline inflators from CRC. I've only used it once though - that was on the fatbike tyres. Every other fitting I've just used my (old) EBC track pump.
Pre-fit tyre with tube.
Leave overnight.
Release one bead.
Remove tube.
Fit valve. (usually the cheapest I can find off Ebay)
Refit tyre.
Pump.
Release air.
Remove valve core. (needle nosed pliers)
Insert sealant.
Refit valve core. (using a wee Stans bottle)
Pump.
Shake.
Diluted baby shampoo/washing up liquid might be sprayed on the bead if it's having trouble seating. It's also handy for showing up any temporary leaks so I know where to concentrate the shaking.
It takes as long to write this down as it takes to fit the tyres 🙂
The extra wraps of tape are to create as much of a seal as possible between the tyre and rim tape BEFORE it pops on, this way the air doesn’t seep out around the sides and instead does what it’s supposed to which is pop the bead on!
What tyres and rims are these?
If the beto is working then it doesn't matter just make sure its seated properly before you start especially over the valve.
Make sure the tyre is nice and warm and there are no kinks in the bead or put the tube in and keep it next to a radiator etc.,
What tyres and rims are these?
Vittoria Terreno Wet 33mm, Pacentic Forza rims, Pacenti rim tape, Pacenti valves.
I experimented with some 38mm Terreno Drys during the summer on same wheels/tape/valves. They went straight up with a track pump, no soapy water or jiggery-pokery with beads, just some 'energetic' pumping. Don't understand why the 33mm Wet tyres which presumably have the exact same bead construction etc. won't go up just as easily, perhaps the 3 months of riding I had done on the Dry tyres before trying to seat them tubeless made it easier?
Don’t understand why the 33mm Wet tyres which presumably have the exact same bead construction etc. won’t go up just as easily, perhaps the 3 months of riding I had done on the Dry tyres before trying to seat them tubeless made it easier?
When I get a stubborn tyre its usually the bead. A kink or similar... hence why I was stressing above to take your time getting the tyre on properly etc. Soapy water etc. all helps...
Making sure the tyre is warm helps and leaving a tube in usually does the same thing.
Quite often they leak all over but just keep going and if necessary you can keep pumping, ultimately you just need to be putting air in faster than it leaks out.
I haven't timed it but I don't think 4-5 secs in total is out of the way...obviously the flow decreases over time hence sometimes you can just top it up a bit whilst once it pushes part onto the bead less escapes...
Where are you in the country? Could there be someone local to you that could have a go with their air inflator (whether that’s airshot / compressor / converts fire extinguisher etc) and see if that works?
I know lots of people do manage it, but I’ve never managed to pop a tubeless tyre on just with a track pump. Maybe you need to have a high volume pump rather than one that does higher pressures.
OP ... Despite having posted earlier about how easy it is, I do feel your pain, as my induction to tubeless was similarly problematic.
I do think that some tyre/rim combo's are more problematic.
I certainly struggled with my initial gravel and road tyre installations, experiencing some similar problems to you. BUT, it is worth persevering.
I assume they are TR rims and tyres? (Sorry, kind of obvious, but worth checking.)
I suspect that three wraps of tape will be too much unless the tyre has a baggy fit ... One or two is usually enough in most cases.
The trick about the inner tube left in overnight not only helps seat the bead, buy also helps press down the tape into the wheel rim.
Removing the valve core and using soapy water should in most cases work, it takes virtually no time to do it. Whilst there are clearly plenty of people who manage to do so with the core in place / no soap / just a track pump, I still always use an air shot, soapy water and remove the core as it just works (now, for me) every time.
It does sound as though your can may be faulty, so you will likely continue to experience problems until you have one that works.
Where are you? Have you got a mate to help you through the process? Sure that there will be people on here willing to lend a hand.
Had a bit of trouble seating a WTB Raddler (700 x 40C) the other week, i'd previously set up a WTB Nano (700 x 40c) using a borrowed Topeak Booster pump, with about 100psi discharged from the tank.
Raddler wasn't having none of it, had to charge about 160psi into the tank, right at the pumps limit before it would seat the rim. Got there in the end. think it depends on the tyre tbh, I've never had any problems with MTB tyres either.
I've just bought a Giant Control Tank for future endeavours, looks like a rocket launcher.....hope it works like one.
Plot thickens...
Just randomly tried the other wheel (didn't even remove valve core, no soapy water) aaaaaand the Beto pretty much popped it straight up!
Strange mix of confusion/embarrassment/elation/residual frustration...
Have left troublesome wheel sitting with tube in, will revisit tomorrow.
Need to go for a run, slithering about in the mud should ease the pent up angry! 😁
Just randomly tried the other wheel (didn’t even remove valve core, no soapy water) aaaaaand the Beto pretty much popped it straight up!
Yep. Had that too. With gravel and road tyres initially. Probably 'just one of those things' ... 🤷♂️
Lots of mentions on here about removing large hawthorns etc when out on rides while running tubeless . Bit risky if you ask me, if I do get a large hawthorn in the tyre I just leave it there to act as a plug and let the sealant do it’s job.
I would not risk removing anything large from the tyre just in case the sealant is not able to seal the hole. You then risk having to plug it or fitting a tube to get you home.
I do of course remove all thorns etc if you find you have no choice but to fit a tube when stuck in the middle of nowhere.
It’s amazing just how many punctures you find you have swerved when you take a tyre off and run your fingers around the inside 😂
Plot thickens…
Just randomly tried the other wheel (didn’t even remove valve core, no soapy water) aaaaaand the Beto pretty much popped it straight up!
Came back to suggest you tried the other tyre.... leave the one with the tube in somewhere nice and warm ... if you take it off check the bead before fitting ... obviously if it works leave it ... if it is a bit funny/kinked it will flatten over time and prob get a bit of stans
Blocked valve core?
I agree though, 3 wraps seems like a lot, I always thought one or two was the norm.
Na, think about the vast range of tyre sizes versus rim sizes, it's a complete lottery, there's nothing in the way of tolerances is standard really.
Just to annoy you further, I found Stans race to be pretty shite, went back to the peasant Stans. 🙂
Just to annoy you further, I found Stans race to be pretty shite
Yes. That is annoying 😉
In what way? Still undecided about sending Beto tank back so could still return Stans unopened...
I had a few wee issues that , in my opinion, peasant stans would have sealed. You can never be sure, but I've been tubeless for mibbe 10 years, so have a fair idea of what works.
I think you have a rim tape leak. - can be hard to spot and seldom seal if next to the valve hole...
I might be asking a stupid question, but when using the Beto tank do you also pump like a mad man or just hope the tank does all the work? Some stubborn tyres need some furious pumping as well as the initial blast of air.
I think you have a rim tape leak. – can be hard to spot and seldom seal if next to the valve hole…
They'll know that when they swap tyres onto the other rims...
Send the air tank back, worst they can do is tell you there is nothing wrong with it or replace it for one that is exactly the same?
It certainly doesn't sound right from what you describe.
Sooooo... a brief stay of execution for the Air Tank, after sitting for a night with a tube in (a tube which apparently had a slow puncture as it was flat this morning) I demounted one bead of the troublesome tyre, stuck the air tank on, and hey presto, an inflated and seated tyre (albeit with a little bit of pumping also, just to be sure). The other tyre was still holding air from the night before, even without sealant, so thumbs up there.
So, many thanks to those who suggested putting a tube in first and then only unseating one bead.
As for the air tank though, I'm going to unseat both tyres on one side only and try again with just the track pump, my suspicion is that I don't even need the air tank, and if it can't just 'bully' any old tyre on to the rim first time then I don't see the point in it frankly.
The learning curve continues, it'll be the weekend at this rate before I even attempt to put sealant in 😀
As for the air tank though, I’m going to unseat both tyres on one side only and try again with just the track pump, my suspicion
My suspicion is you had a kink in the bead and the inner tube flattened it out ...
is that I don’t even need the air tank, and if it can’t just ‘bully’ any old tyre on to the rim first time then I don’t see the point in it frankly.
My suspicion is you had a kink in the bead and the inner tube flattened it out ...
It won't bully something on that is not over the valve or has a kink in the bead...
is that I don’t even need the air tank, and if it can’t just ‘bully’ any old tyre on to the rim first time then I don’t see the point in it frankly.
It wont bully something with a major issue but it will make it easier for something a bit more stubborn.
It is also the right right tool for the job, yes I could do the track pump Olympics, wrap a ratchet strap around it or use an inner tube to seat it before removing 1 side etc or I could put the tyre on, slosh some soapy water around and give it a quick blast with the tank. Job done.
Merlin want the tank back to inspect for warranty, I need to figure out if it's really underperforming or if my tyres are just difficult. Don't want to fork out sending it back only to discover it's actually fine. Will time it one more time but the fact I can hear a metallic hissing noise before I even get it to pressure is probably a sign.
If it isn't faulty, I wonder what else you could do to improve performance, shorten the hose to reduce resistance? I'd remove the plastic gubbins from the valve head but you need them to create the seal around the valve stem...
Anyway, I got there in the end, adding sealant actually made tyres more stubborn again which surprised me, I guess maybe some particles of sealant got between bead and rim tape? Either way, valve cores out (proper tool is in the mail...) and the Air Tank got the tyres up, just.
Good, at least you can ride and try it out now. If it's hissing before the expected pressure, send it back for sure.
Could be the seal between your pump and the tank? My Airshot does that sometimes with my SKS track pump, which is a bit temperemental. Maybe worth trying a different track pump if you have one.
but the fact I can hear a metallic hissing noise before I even get it to pressure is probably a sign
What are merlin saying ? Is it going to cost you money to send it back?
If the worst case is they say "no its fine" and send it back free then why not just send it to them?
I've not timed mine but it discharges over a few secs... this actually allows you to "bully" the tyre if any bits are leaking. All it needs to do is get them to seal to the point you can keep pumping at a normal rate to get them to seat fully.