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Please.
Seems the Park Tools 2.3 tick a lot of boxes potentially but always up for more knowledge
If you're happy to spend the money, then the Park Tools 2.3 is very good. I've got a cheaper Unior one that I've used for years, it's more than adequate, but the Park one is nicer...
You'll need the TS-TA thru axle wheel adapter too though and also make sure you get a decent wheel dishing tool, as you can never rely on the truing stands being 100% accurate for dish.
I've got a Park 2.2p and it is really good; however, I used to build them in the frame with tip ties and a business card with blu tac. I checked them all in the proper stand when I got it and they were all bang on. For me I found the most useful thing a tension meter to get everything consistent. I used to check dishing with two cups and a stack of coins 😂.
TS 2.3 for me.
Any TS2 or above. Normally get them on eBay for a decent price. Yes you need the through axle adapter but they are not expensive. Get the plastic base for more stability and I suspect the disc truing attachment might be helpful for you. There are arm extensions for the old stands that will allow a 29er with tyre to fit. Get a dishing gauge but really it's backup. If your park stand is setup correctly and moving freely the calipers will show the correct dish.
Instead of a thru axle adapter a 8mm Allen key works just as well even on 177mm hubs (not sure about 197 though
Thanks all, looks like we have a simple answer... (if a little expensive 🙂 )
Instead of a thru axle adapter a 8mm Allen key works just as well even on 177mm hubs (not sure about 197 though
I think the TS2.3 comes with the thru axle adapters? if it doesn't I'd say they are worth it for the sake of ease.
Instead of a thru axle adapter a 8mm Allen key works just as well even on 177mm hubs (not sure about 197 though
I think the TS2.3 comes with the thru axle adapters? if it doesn't I'd say they are worth it for the sake of ease.
According to the blurb it does yes.
I got a thru axle adapter off ali-express for a few quid, it's just a treaded bas with some machined stepped spacers.
Looking on there you can get some much cheaper truing stands, given the choice of spending £200 on a simple Park stand or £80 for one with dial indicators, I'd get the cheap one with dial indicators, it'd take guesswork out of the initial 'is this 25% of the wheel wobbling to the left or 75% of it wobbling to the right step 😂.
And +1 for a tension meter being more important than the stand. I just have the basic Park one, most wheels that means aiming for 20, and it builds much better wheels if you true it and get it evenly to ~15 (which will feel very loose still), de stress the spokes, make sure it's all bedded in, true again, check tension again (basically finish building the wheel), then go round a quarter of a turn at a time until it gets to 18, true/de-stress/tension/repeat again, then finally upto 20. It's not so critical on modern rims that are hugely stiff with large cross-sections, they'll tolerate a remarkably sloppy build. But if you ever try and build a skinny little 340g 17mm wide road rim with all the structural integrity of wet pasta then it's absolutely critical because it's possible to end up with a straight wheel but with tension all over the place.
I have the Park Tools tension meter already, i did look at the cheaper £80 jobbies on Ebay but it's unclear if they'll do 29er with a tyre fitted. A lot of this will be for quick truing in the paddock after runs/lunch/evening, so it's not like it needs to be 100% perfect in truth. I've been using one of the ones that straps onto the chainstay
I generally then take it to my mate at Rotec who makes it perfect, but once we move house i'll be 2+ hours from him so less viable to shoot over there
it'd take guesswork out of the initial 'is this 25% of the wheel wobbling to the left or 75% of it wobbling to the right step
There is no guess work there when using the park stand as the pincer gauge will show you which of the above is the case. IMO dial gauges are overrated. A lot of those cheap stands look more flexible than a xc rim, that can really hurt accuracy. The advantage of the park through axle adaptor is that it stays on the stand and doesn't require constant threading on/off the hub. It also nicely centres the hub in the stand.
I've got the Unior 1688 - usually under a hundred quid. Very solid. Simple. European made. Works perfectly.
I've got the Unior 1688 - usually under a hundred quid. Very solid. Simple. European made. Works perfectly.
Does it work with a 29er wheel with tyre fitted?
There is no guess work there when using the park stand as the pincer gauge will show you which of the above is the case.
Only if the wheel has zero dish. In every other scenario you end up locking one arm or the other judging which side to true first.
Have you used one before, that is simply not the case. If you lock up one arm then that's slapping you round the face with an indication of which side needs doing!
While it will work the flaw with that type of design is that it only indicates deviation on one side at once rather than both at once and also does not show if the dish is correct.