[Closed] Recommend me a bike. Tall person content

Budget?

Tall friends are on Santa Cruz hightower ($$$$$) and Giant Reign ($$$$) and they like both of them.

I think you're going to struggle though to get bars level with saddle. A couple of inches of drop is not unreasonable unless you're really inflexible.

Yeah budget would help. About £3500 though a little higher for the right bike

The new Tallboy comes in XXL, reach 506 or something. They say it goes up to 6 foot 7 I think. The alu one should be within reach

Xl bird Aries it's a very long bike and with that budget you'd get one hell,of a bike.

Banshee Prime here (6'6")

Spec stumpy in XXL

Hi blakec

If you want a comparison, i'm 6ft 5" and this is my Whyte 905, standard cockpit but I have got a 170mm reverb as the standard dropper was too short!

[img] [/img]

All

thank you for the comments

Batman

the reach is great but I feel the stack 607 is to low and I would feel like I would have to much weight over the front

maccruiskeen

How do you find your saddle bar hight comparison

chocolate teapot

Glad I wasn't the only one who's saddle was a way up in the air it dose look like your inside leg looks longer than mine from the saddle position

6'6.5 here and on a tallboy LTc xxl - admittedly it isn't is new geo longer reach modern wonder but it is the best fit I've had, would post a pic but don't have one hosted.

Definitely go and sit on an xxl Hightower IMO

Didn't think the new Santa Cruz's were that long, despite being lengthened.

Mondraker
Whyte G130/G160
Mojo Nicolai
Maybe an XL Reign if you can find one.
Nukeproof Mega XL

Turner Sultan 23" here - plenty spacers and some riser bars. Some Trek FS are made in a 23" frame (although closer to 22" IIRC) and Specialized do a couple in big, but Giant don't.

A mate is going through the same thing.
Firstly don't dismiss riser stem, spacers and bars, it's about making it work for you. He had some great results with swapping out stuff.

He is currently on a 29r Trigger and loves it but is looking for something a bit burlier but for general riding the bike looks spot on at 130mm

Didn't think the new Santa Cruz's were that long, despite being lengthened.

[url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/photos-of-xl-bikes ]Photos of XL+ bikes[/url]

don't dismiss riser stem, spacers and bars, it's about making it work for you

That's been my answer so far. Might not look pretty but it works fine.

Either L or XL (Longest or Longesterer) GeoMetron 27.5 or the 29er depending on your preference either can be set up to run 150/160mm front and would fit properly with a 35mm stem.

XL is 681mm ETT, 535mm reach, 633mm stack, 150mm HT length for the 27.5. The 29er is the same but slightly shorter travel front and currently a special order.

Possible to do a sensible slx/Hope build from Mojo for approx £4k but with the top notch important parts (frame, X2, 36 and Transfer seatpost) best to discus directly with Mojo. Test ride important!

just under 6'5" on an XL Transition Smuggler, bit less travel than you want but it fits well. 483mm reach if I recall correctly

i'm not a giant like some of you guys, i'm only 6'2". But I think i was about 9 the last time i had a bike where the handlebars and saddle were level.

even on my 'upright' comfy commuter, my saddle is roughly 10cm above my bars.

The concept of much weight over the front wheel being an issue depends a lot on the geometry of the bike and the characteristics of the front suspension/tyre. It all comes down to confidence.

I'm 6'5" and ride an XXL Tallboy. I'm interested in trying the XL Rocket Max from Cotic, perhaps something to add to your demo list.

Same height Blakec and will soon be riding an XL Cotic RocketMax. It'll be my first XL bike and my first with the new trendy geometry (and 29 foot wheels). Will probably do a shite e-review when it arrives early next week. Currently ride a L Stumpy Evo and 20" 456 SS and don't find them too small tbh. Could be due to ignorance tho.

FWIW my seat is much higher than my bars when seated and around level when dropped. Feels spot on to my ignorant self.

maccruiskeen
How do you find your saddle bar hight

I've never thought about it (I'm not near the bike just now to check)

The bars are where they need to be and so is the saddle. Where one is compared to the other hasn't concerned me. Should it?

I'm 6'5 and have the same issue with finding a balance between a long seat post and low cockpit height.

Currently have an XL stumpjumper 29er FSR, which has a 145mm headtube. Allows plenty of scope to adjust the number of spacers under the stem, and am only using a 10mm rise bar with a 60mm stem.

It's easily the best bike I've ever owned

[URL= http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac117/warns74/b528b219-0ed1-45b4-a97d-1d1e4ae2423b_zpsgy2zhcs8.jp g" target="_blank">http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac117/warns74/b528b219-0ed1-45b4-a97d-1d1e4ae2423b_zpsgy2zhcs8.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

I'm your height and ride an XL 2012 Stumpy FSR. It's comfy and seems to work for me. If you are round Cambridge, I'm more than happy for you to have a ride round on it to see how it feels.

I was looking at the Bird Aeris and Ben recommended an XL in that for me if that helps.

thanks all for the replys

I use the saddle bar height comparison as when the bars are at that height it feels right when I'm out of the saddle not to hunched up or leaning forward to much.

Maybe having the longer tt and shorter stem combo will pull my weight back a bit which would help with the feel of the weight distribution

Guess the only way is to go out and set a few weekends aside for some demo's I have a few I will want to try.

Willard

Thanks for the offer but not local

Ive just put my banshee spitfire up for sale. That could fit the bill matey.

My number is 07411650412 so get in touch if your interested.

Based in north east

http://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/full-suspension-bikes/mojonicolai-geometron-29er-review

set a few weekends aside for some demo's I have a few I will want to try.

Don't hold your breath. Most places and companies don't carry demo bikes at the extreme end of sizing.

If I told you my Sultan was the 1st bike I ever test rode (I was 38 at the time) and I had to go from Cambs to Little Rock, Arkansas to do it......

The tall guy in our riding group loves his stumpy 29er.

I had no issues getting an XL test bike from Specialized, even had it for the whole weekend.

[I]i'm not a giant like some of you guys, i'm only 6'2". But I think i was about 9 the last time i had a bike where the handlebars and saddle were level.[/I]

+1 same here.

Use to make me laugh of the tests in bike mags where they complained about how they couldn't get the front of 29er's low enough.

I've a 29er Camber evo, in large. Only really fits as I've a 170mmm Reverb (still got 50mm of post showing)) and due to the slackish seatpost angle it means that having the seat so high up opens up the reach. Also extended the Pike to 140mm.

So why is it large bikes don't have correspondingly longer head tubes? As a tall rider too I've often wondered this.

So why is it large bikes don't have correspondingly longer head tubes? As a tall rider too I've often wondered this.

Probably because the key points where you control the bike are your hands and your feet - and the relationship between those position and the wheels is what makes that particular design bike bike work. Bike makers are trying to make the same bike with the same characteristics for different size riders - not a range of 4 different bikes for 4 different sizes of rider.

Theres nothing to stop you adding height with stems, spacers and risers if you need them thats why all those products exist - to adjust the fit - but its much easier for you to add them if you need them for comfort than it is to take that height away if manufacturers fitted a taller head tube instead

6'7" on an XL Cannondale Trigger here, loads of seat post showing and 38 mm rise bars.

Precisely, you can get 50mm rise bars if you really want and a stem with some rise. You'd have to be an utter giant to not be able to get a reasonable fit with some 2 inch risers.

Anyway - for the OP's delectation

Banshee Prime for a 6'6" rider - thats with a flat bar (renthal fat bar lite). The photo makes it look like bar and saddle are level I'd actually say the bar is about an inch lower than the seat

EDIT thats also with the flip-able doodads at the back in their highest setting- raising the BB and steeping the head tube. When I can be arsed I'm going to reduce the travel down to 130mm at the front too -so you could lower the saddle relative to the bars a little by dropping the back end

[IMG] [/IMG]

Having been chatting recently to with someone with a dealer account... theres some very keen prices on last years banshee frames at distributor level so if its something you're considering it would be worth chatting up a local shop and seeing what price they'd be able to get if they ordered one in for you.

6'3 XL smuggler it's longer than a long thing! My saddle is higher than my bars though. Shorter travel than your spec but it's the same reach as a patrol so I'd look at both.

I find it quite interesting an XL smuggler is approx the same ETT length as a M Geometron (shorter reach) for which I'd recommend a rider between 5'8 and 6' but has a smaller reach than the Small GeoMetron.

The L and XL GeoMetron are much larger, 20mm and 40mm longer ETT and 40mm and 60mm longer reach respectively.

The geonetron is pretty huge though, the only bikes that get reasonably close are the Mondrakers and Whytes.

I'm 6'5" and got a couple of Canyons that fit well if that helps.

Bike makers are trying to make the same bike with the same characteristics for different size riders - not a range of 4 different bikes for 4 different sizes of rider.

But that's exactly my point. How can a bike have the same characteristics when for a shortarse the bars are 2" higher than the saddle, and for a lanky git are 3" lower?

Plus spacers look cak.

[i]So why is it large bikes don't have correspondingly longer head tubes? As a tall rider too I've often wondered this. [/i]

They do.

From 90mm on a Small to 150mm on an XL.

I find it quite interesting an XL smuggler is approx the same ETT length as a M Geometron (shorter reach) for which I'd recommend a rider between 5'8 and 6' but has a smaller reach than the Small GeoMetron.

The L and XL GeoMetron are much larger, 20mm and 40mm longer ETT and 40mm and 60mm longer reach respectively.

The Reach is a big difference but the BB height relative to the Stack is very noticeable as well.

Bike makers are trying to make the same bike with the same characteristics for different size riders - not a range of 4 different bikes for 4 different sizes of rider.

But that's exactly my point. How can a bike have the same characteristics when for a shortarse the bars are 2" higher than the saddle, and for a lanky git are 3" lower?

Maybe the height of the rider doesn't have much to do with it - you're just some meat that needs to be transported the height of the saddle is about making the meat comfortable - control of the bike is via the bars and pedals and is about the relationship between those points and the wheels - the wheel size and the crown height are the same across the range (of a given model of bike) and the bars primary job are controlling that wheel.

That said though getting a bit of variety in wheel size is helping to make bikes that are better suited to different sized riders. It made no sense to me in the past that so much effort went into geometry and fit with frame design but there was a one-size-fits-all approach to the wheels. I find it nice to ride with a bike now rather ride on top of it. I'd welcome a similar shake up with road bikes! - a rim size that results in a wheel size similar to a 29er

Plus spacers look cak.

so is this a fashion issue rather than anything more empirical? 🙂

They do.

From 90mm on a Small to 150mm on an XL.

Specialised seam to be the one of the few manufacture that make significant changes in length in head tube length others below seam to have less movement

[b]the geomatron[/b]

is 110mm to 130mm

Stack 596mm to 615mm

[b]bird aries[/b]

110mm sx to 120mm xl

stack 599mm to 607mm

[b]trek fuel [/b]

100mm to 110mm

stack 604mm to 612mm

They do.

From 90mm on a Small to 150mm on an XL.

It gets longer, yes, but not enough to maintain the relative vertical positioning of arse vs hands. To do so the XL would have a head-tube length of 193mm(ish) (versus Medium).

It gets longer, yes, but not enough to maintain the relative vertical positioning of arse vs hands. To do so the XL would have a head-tube length of 193mm(ish) (versus Medium).

You could scale absolutely everything up proportionally - frame, wheel diameters and tyre volumes, forks and travel, tube diameters, everything- so that the fit, weight distribution and so on is exactly the same for a tall rider as it is for a regular height one - every detail of an XL bike for a 6'6" tall rider being 11.111% larger than average. The next step from there would be to build rider-height specific trails with all the corners having 11.111% wider radiuses otherwise the tall blokes would all end up in the bushes. 🙂

I'm 6' 6" and ride a XL camber evo. Personally I think 29ers are the best thing since coffee for my size. I know it's not in yr travel but I guess the stumpy 29er would do the thing you want. I guess lots of other manufacturers similar in sizing too, as you can see above.

The Pyga Stage Max in XL is big. I'm 6'2" and was trying to figure out whether L or XL would fit me best... I reckon somewhere in the middle. I went for L in the end as I guessed it'd be a better size for others to demo and/or to sell on.

XL has 638mm stack. It's not going to be £3.5k though (but complete build for not too much more than that should be possible).

Chainline....you're not comparing apples with apples, the Geomatron is a custom 6.5K bike!

I'm your height. An XL Nukeproof Mega 290 should sort you out. It's a cool bike with 150mm travel front and back.

6ft 3 ish here with 36 inside leg. I have a xl niner wfo, fits like a glove, they are short in the top tube though. I'm Herefordshire based if you want to sit on it 🙂 Also have a Turner sultan xl which also fits well. At no point did I feel I should have bought xxl. The sultan frames for sale.

What about a custom frame?

Starling Cycles Swoop, www.starlingcycle.com

I'm in talk with a chap who's 6'9" about building a frame.

I've recently got some Reynolds 853 custom downtubes made. These are longer as well as thicker and should allow me to build a frame with up to 550mm reach, maybe more.

I should also be able to do a custom build, with Fox suspension tuned to the bike and you requirements for your budget.

Should be an 'S' on the end of that link

http://www.starlingcycles.com 😛

Thank you.

Got a broken hand, so slightly addled on Codeine!

Another one here for a Mega 290 XL. Got one a few months ago and it's plenty big enough and nice and solid. I'm 6' 7" and it's plenty big enough for me. £2900 for the Pro.

Wookster, the 27.5 GeoMetron is a std bike that can be built for between £4k and £4.5k with slx/Hope kit. Of course you can spend more with flash kit.

The 29er is currently custom, but a std 29er is in the works...

HT on the XL GeoMetron is 150mm (500mm ST). 130mm on the L (470mm ST)

phutphutend - Member
What about a custom frame?

That could be a possibility I've never had a steel frame before

Chainline - Member
The 29er is currently custom, but a std 29er is in the works...

That could be interesting. I don't suppose you know what the time frame of "in the works" I read the MBR review that was posted and it sounded interesting but at almost £3k for the frame its a bit out of my budget

HT on the XL GeoMetron is 150mm (500mm ST). 130mm on the L (470mm ST)

Were did you find the geometry for the XL? I can only see the L on the mojo website.

Thanks

Chainline, it's a beaut of a bike, and the 29er sounds lush, but the £4.5k is not set up is it? Ideally Mojo want you to do the whole day set up package thing! So £6K+!

Still want one though!! 🙂

Wookster, the setup day is if you want to test everything! Different Bar widths, stem, kinds of suspension feel, wheels, brakes etc.
It's also refundable if you buy the frame package etc.
You still get suspension set up as part of the std package based on discussion, parameters and an in person suspension setup if you ask and fetch it from Mojo. The day was(I think it still is £200)
So not £6k!!
If you are comfortable with the kind of tyres you want to use/brakes/have a preferred bar width etc then it's about fit and suspension set up for you, how you want the bike to feel but much of the basics are done based on weight and a discussion of your riding style. In reality few of us are super aggressive shredders and Chris has/is building a knowledge base of riders/weights and setups of the bike to draw upon.

You can call and discuss the XL with Chris.

The frame and an X2 is £2350k. £3k, or specifically £3150 includes a tuned float x2, tuned float 36, and headset and for another £100 you get a Fox a Transfer post. So quite a lot more for £3k.

Blakec look to Eurobike at the end of Aug...

If you check out #geolution on social media you'll see some teaser pics, the Proto DH bike with Jack Reading's One Vision team has been out there all year, the 29 has been tested extensively now....

Head tube lengths don't need to grow as much as seat tubes because taller riders can use wider and taller bars and stem spacers, whilst shorter riders are often battling to get the bars low enough due to big wheels and long forks.

There's also some complicated stuff about body position - I think shorter riders usually ride taller and taller riders usually lower, when in the attack (descending) position. I've noticed that now I'm riding longer/lower/stacker bikes I stand more upright, which I think is to raise my centre of gravity so I don't have to move so much to control the bike, whilst on my older bikes I had a lower more stable position because it was harder to keep the bike on course but easier to manoeuvre it.

6ft 6 and have a XXL Tallboy, but have just got a XL Nukeproof Mega 290 and to be frank, it's a revelation!!!

Am getting some 40mm riser bars but still fits fine standard.

Chainline, if I wasn't deeply in love with my Transition Smuggler ( because of the long reach, but handles brilliantly mix they've come up with ) and had a few quid I'd be on the phone now!! I'm thinking I've got few years to save up for my 40th though!! 8)

Bikes for tall people, and smaller people, but they fit tall people very well. XL now shown.

https://issuu.com/why_gbr/docs/nicolai-mini-katalog-2017-final_x1

Head tube lengths don't need to grow as much as seat tubes because taller riders can use wider and taller bars and stem spacers, whilst shorter riders are often battling to get the bars low enough due to big wheels and long forks.

This all over. I'm 6'5" on XL size Nicolai's and I have the stem pretty much slammed onto the headset (5mm spacer underneath) with a low rise bar. I rode with Chris Porter on Friday and he thinks the headtube on the XL Geometron is too long.....

The real issue is head tubes/front ends being way too high on longer travel/smaller size bikes. On Katie's old extra small we were running a flat bar, negative rise stem and the lowest stack headset we could find. You want a low front end for climbing and weight on the front to descend.

6.5 ish too, ride an XXL Ice Cream Truck, which is just deliriously wonderful and a great fit (With some riser bars and a few spacers - HT is a wee bit short), perfect poop-weather bike.

Also have a. 2016 XL stumpy 29er for dusty trail days 🙂 This frame is actually a warranty replacement for the 2015 frame, which snapped above the top tube shock mount area. Apparently not the first in that size to do that.

Maybe why the new frame has that double split top tube thingy going on. Anyhow, big fat bloke give big fat thumbs up to the Stumpy, great bit of kit.

[img] ?w=2000&h=&crop=1[/img]

Simon, I think the L GeoMetron HT could be 10mm shorter too. However I would disagree that the front needs to be low for climbing, I'd argue the weignt distribution being in the right place is far more important.
My GeoMetron is running 40's with a -2 angleset that adds 15mm to the top. So the HT is effectively 165mm but I can easily and comfortably climb ridiculously steep stuff as the pedalling position is so central (I also have longer chainstays) effectively the bike is sub 61deg but I get no wander or lift on stuff thats hard to walk up.

I'm also riding a bike a full size longer than we expected on what is already the longest bike. I ended up adding 15mm of spacers with the 20mm rise bar (Most GeoMetron riders have 15mm or more spacers under) before I fitted the 40's. I think this is due to the fact the HA is so slack and thus the front is actually quite low.

Chris is riding the XL and he is only a shade over 6' whereas in theory its designed for 6'5" plus, that's the main reason he thinks its a bit tall as he also tends to run anglesets which adds more height.

Bikes for tall people, and smaller people, but they fit tall people very well. XL now shown.

Thanks have been looking at the specs. very tempting

Chainline -

Some good points - however, the Geometron climbs very differently to any other bike I've ridden. I'm still trying to get my head around losing grip when I moved my weight forwards on climbing something steep and loose. A good point that the slack head angle lowers the front - not something I'd clocked.

However, Chris was wanting to lower the front/ bring the bars forward to get my weight distribution forward even on the Geometron. With conventional, short, geometry this is much more important (and that's what we're dealing with in this thread).

I have my bikes set up so that they'll climb super steep stuff though - most people are walking long before I do. If the front end is high it limits how far you can get your weight over the front when climbing. Worrying about the saddle to bar position is really worrying about how the bike looks/rides on the flat - which (as Chris points out) isn't where we ride mountain bikes. Once that bike is on an uphill slope the bars aren't below the saddle anymore.

Descending, you have the seat dropped so again it's no longer a factor - if your saddle has moved down 125mm (or more) you've space to get your weight low when you need it (and getting your ankles behind the pedal axles is what stops you going over the front not having a high bar.

Another 6'2" dwarf here but my 6'6" mate rides a large stanton HT with 150mm forks, riser bars but a regular stem, the saddle drop is less than 10cm.
OP How have you determined your saddle height? Started with .885 of your inside leg? I've reduced the drop on my bikes through 180mm cranks (5mm lower), cleats at the back of the slots (5mm ish), raising the front and using an fit calculator - note it takes a few weeks to adapt to each 5-10mm of change. Hope that helps.
Interestingly Nino Shurter seems to have a very modest drop, I'd say 6cm...

Simon, Its rather lower with a 27.5 front too (17mm in fact) , another reason Chris wants to get the bars lower 😉

Same climbing situation on a Jones I found due to the super short stays. True about the climbing, though no real need to get forward. What rear tyre, as I've not experienced that much and Chris tends to run semi slicks which won't help.

Euro - Member
Same height Blakec and will soon be riding an XL Cotic RocketMax. It'll be my first XL bike and my first with the new trendy geometry (and 29 foot wheels). Will probably do a [b]shite e-review[/b] when it arrives early next week.

Blake, that 'review' can be found [url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/cotic-rocket-max-review-of-sorts ]here [/url]if you're interested. Cotic are doing the demos on the mainland at the minute - definitely worth a test ride if you're close to one.

Simon, Its rather lower with a 27.5 front too (17mm in fact) , another reason Chris wants to get the bars lower
-----
What rear tyre, as I've not experienced that much and Chris tends to run semi slicks which won't help

yes, of course. Rear tyre was a Rock Razor which won't have helped.

Hi,

I'm looking for a new (to Me) bike, budget £2000 or so. I'm 6"4 with a 36 inside leg.

I've narrowed it down to a santa cruz bronston, transition scout, banshee prime or a new specialised stumpjumper either last year's carbon or this year's boosted one.

Any suggestions? It's got to cope with bays out in the peaks, lakes and the odd uplift day.

Fellow lanky bastards. I have a 2014 Carbon Camber Evo Expert pimped with XO1 + Monarch RC3 and 2016 S-Works Enduro (also pimped) with Ohlins fork and tweaked geometry to slacken it that I'm considering selling to satisfy my Gear Aquisition Syndrome. Or, being neighbourly, simply happy to let anyone sit on for size. Gloucestershire.

How much much would you be looking for golo?

If it's £2000ish I'm interested 🙂

For the Camber that's close to the money. Not for the S-Works obvs... :D. Although if anyone can scratch up the cash, it's almost exactly this years's geometry just without the boost and glove box... And waaaay less money.

I should also say both are in pretty damn good condition.

The Camber has the current SL carbon wheels with 30mm internal width and quick pick up free hub (which is why I say close). Frame also takes 650+ up to 2.8" tyres which makes a good climber an amazing one and loads of fun downhill. Could do a deal to include those wheels too....

Very likely to be able to find ways to fit your budget by fettling what's in or out.