You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Going to give single speed a go on my Jack Flash when I get it built up.
Having never done a single speed conversion what do people recommend for rear hub and tensioner?
Rear wheel is a Superstar with 10spd Shimano free hub and QR axle.
Also chain ring for the front - will a normal n/w be ok? (Have a spare in the garage).
And what chain can I get away with? Have a spare 7/8 speed in the garage.
The chain and ring you have will be fine.
Don't buy a "kit" they're always cheap sh1t.
Get a spacer kit from velo solutions or used if you can.
Rear sprocket, I always use surly and they're often 2nd hand on eBay but the truth is any sprocket with a wide base will be fine.
The wide base stops it eating your freewheel.
Add a gusset tensioner and you're good to go.
Yeah, as above, kits are generally shite.
Buy spacers, or break down old cassettes for them.
Surly cogs are probably the best, but the wide base ones from On-One are good too.
Existing chainring fine, but I might buy a 7/8 spd chain, as sometimes the teeth on Surly cogs areba little wide for 10spd+ chains.
Many tensioners out there, but I'm a fan of double jockey wheel ones like Paul's or Rohloff. They just work better.
I've always had issued with the single jockey wheel type, though YMMV.
I know some people have had good luck with BB mounted tensioners.
Just de-SSed my fat bike. I'd used a normal cog as I didn't have a wide base to hand and it had really dug into the freehub (Industry Nine) and took quite a bit of removing.
NW chainring will be fine. I used a tensioner I'd got from CTBM.
Thanks all.
What about this kit from Gusset - includes a 7mm base on the sprocket.
https://www.gussetcomponents.com/shop/hubs-and-cassettes/double-six-converter-16t/
Am I better going for a spring tensioner or bolted type?
If you've got ISCG mounts, something like a Blackspire Stinger is a neat solution. I run one and it's easy to make tension adjustments. Although as I'm learning, provided you've got a decent SS-specific chain, ring and sprocket, you're better off running the chain on the slack side. It won't drop.