 You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
2010 dual air model, I know you can install a travel chip into a 120mm and make it 100mm, but i cannot see a definitive answer as to whether you can take a fork purchased as 100mm version, and remove chip to make it a 120mm version.
I've seen several places say it can't be done, I've seen several others saying they all share the same internals so is possible either way.
I ask as I've been offered a 100mm Reba from a friend but he isn't able to open up and check internals for me, I'd like to know before I buy
Mine were marketed as 80mm travel, took two spacers out and they became 120mm, Most set's of reba's are internally adjustable I'm led to believe.
I'm sure someone will be along to prove me wrong 😆
Mine are reba team dual air 26" 2010
My 100mm 2011 dual air reba definitely wasn't adjustable to 120mm
my non-adjustable one was from On-One, BTW
Retail Reba's are pretty much all adjustable, you just drop the spacers in to/out of the air side. Some OEM one's can't be increased, so if it's come off a bike or from an OEM supplier cheap then you could be stuck. There's no definite answer until you get it open and check either way.
I asked one of the rockshox guys this exact question a few years ago at a trade show. IIRC, he said that any Rebas pre 2013 could be adjusted to 80, 100 or 120.
I think I remember reading once that OEM (on-one supplied) Rebas came with cheaper internals (sektor?), which if true may explain why some aren't able to adjust the travel length.
How easy is it for me to open the fork and check?
2013 onwards no, 2012 and before yes (aftermarket)
As above after market forks should go upto 120mm.
Another indicator is if you have sag markings on your forks. If the sag markers have 80m and 100mm chances are that the forks cannot go longer.
Note its just a indicator and not always 100% accurate.
My 100 mm rebas have markings in the right hand stanchion to set the sag. At rest it reads 0% ,I assume if you could increase travel those markings would be wrong.
From memory these forks in question don't have sag markings. They do have the remote poploc on right leg, does this have any bearing?..
There's no way to tell for sure with out stripping the fork down. I've got 3sets of pre 2012 Reba's , two can be increased to 115/120 and one can't. The one that can't is aftermarket the other two are oem.
Stripping the fork is easy, have a look on SRAMs you tube channel as they have some good videos on there of how to do it. IMO the most difficult part of the strip down is getting the circip out of the bottom of the satanction so that the air chamber can be disassembled.
What dvatcmark said. Mine came off my 2009 Rockhopper and were 100mm, did a full service on them about 6 months ago and took the air chamber all apart and hey presto, found the wee bobbin inside that reduces the travel. Launched that in the spares bin and now have 120mm forks on my Cove.
Thanks for the advice guys, I followed the above and a great post from singletrackminded from about 3 years ago which gave me 5 easy steps to opening the air chamber and accessing the rod in the left leg.
Unfortunately this fork is one of the seemingly 1 in 20 without the travel spacer fitted, so no 120mm on this occasion
[URL= http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae168/keepitsteel/5D27361E-4B70-4469-A375-1074F20047EB_zpsssur0lkb.jp g" target="_blank">
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae168/keepitsteel/5D27361E-4B70-4469-A375-1074F20047EB_zpsssur0lkb.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
Link,slimjim?
I've lost it, but almost word for word:
Depressurise both positive and neg air chambers
Unscrew upper 24mm nut completely
Unscrew lower nut until it covers end of thread, then use soft/rubber mallet and tap on nut until you feel pushrod assembly shift slightly.
Now remove nut completely and push the pushrod assembly out via the bottom of the leg, use a long pointy object to push it through until you see assembly emerge from top of fork leg. I used a length of brake cable outer and it did the job fine, it helps to fully compress the fork during this step.
You can now see upper assembly and hopefully the travel chip is in situ. Remove travel chip.
You'll see in my pic above that only a bump stop was present.
During disassembly a small amount of fork oil will leak out of bottom hole, and probably top hole (my fork was pretty dry). If you hold fork flat during process you can eliminate most of the fork oil from leaking. I read that a 5ml squirt into bottom chamber and 10 to 15ml squirt into upper chamber does the trick, you may want to double check these quantities
Be careful when unscrewing the upper nut, the anodised finish can mark quite easily if being ham fisted
Yep they are just 100mm I'm afraid.
Have you put it back together yet as when I tried that method I couldn't get the piston back in as the o ring jammed on the threads in the top of the stanction
Rebas at 120mm are pretty unpleasant. They're just too flexy.
Introduce some Martas with a 185mm disc and you're off into the hedge if you stop too quickly...