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Had an off which resulted in the clutch lever on the SLX mech breaking. Replaced with 36t Zee (1*10 setup) and new cabling.
Tension cable, it won't do smallest (10) to 9 without winding the barrell adjuster lots, which usually means it goes 10-8! Still goes up to 1 (the 36t ring).
Have tried a new hanger, other Zee mech and same issues. Local shop couldn't troubleshoot it but didn't have a huge amount of time to spend on it.. tried b screw etc. Cassette and chain seem good and not worn on stretch guide.
2014 Bandit 27.5
It seems simple when you describe it, if you get the full range by winding the barrel out all the way that suggests that the cable isn't pulled tight enough through the outers and into the mech. But I bet you thought that already and had of course tried to pull it as taught as possible?
Is there any delay when you do shift, like dirt in the outers? did you replace the outers?
bent frame then possibly.
From memory I get the 36t even without winding the barrell. Its 10-9 that won't go, others aren't quite perfect but go. Downshift is sporadic. New inner, new SP41 outer (continous length), new ferrules. Routed exactly as before.
Too much cable tension from the start of set up.
Start afresh completely...of course making sure shifter is indexed all the way to 10th!
I have found that with Zee mechs they've all caused me a similar issue...and my mate....and all it needed was barrel adjuster leaving with a full turn already on it, gently take the slack out the cable when bolting up the cable pinch bolt, don't pull it taut, it will put too much tension in the system from the off.
Hopefully you will find like I have that this method solves the errant indexing.
If it was too much tension it would do the dmallest-second smallest (or even jump to third smallest) straight away surely? The shop loosened and tensioned from scratch with no joy.
At rest without a cable a rear derailleur will sit almost in line with the smallest sprocket. As long as the adjustment screw hasn't been fiddled with, obviously.
Edit : It needs cable tension to reach the larger sprockets so follow Suggsey's advice and you should get it working again.
Do the jockeys sit vertical below the sprockets? Otherwise could be bent frame seeing as you have tried two different hangers
From what you're saying it sounds like you've already discounted it being caused by anything but the shifter.
First check your brake lever has not twisted round placing force against your shifter housing. Occasionally with some shifters this can cause the internals to stick/jam/not release the cable as freely.
Then manually check cable release throughout the shifters range. Do this by removing the outer cable/ferules from the frame stops and clicking through the gears while holding the inner cable taught close to where it exits the shifter
Worth double checking that the cable moves freely in the outer when disconnected from the mech and shifter too. Spent ages trying to sort out a downshift issue with a recently replaced cable and outer - turns out the cable somehow got a kink in it and was dragging.
Good luck!
Si
Sorry, ignore me; didn't read it all properly.
Helpful1's advice is helpful - could be a damaged/jammed shifter if you've changed everything else.