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Hi,
I have a hope 2 evo rear hub and sram 10 speed cassette setup. I have noticed after my latest ride that the nearly all of the rings have about 3/4mm play both ways. The last 2 (largest) rings don't move and the first ring doesn't more, but the rest can be moved independently of each other by quite a bit.
Is this simply and tightening issue (away, don't have correct tool with me to test), or is the cassette done? I've had the set up for less than a year so reasonably new. Not cheap kit so expected a little more.
Bought the cassette from chain reaction so wondering if I can send it back if it is the problem?
Any advise would be appreciated 🙂
Thanks
Rob
I suspect that it's not tight enough and the cogs have cut into the cassette body so now they can move a bit.
A year's not bad for a cassette if it's your only bike - what sort of mileage have you done on it?
Sounds loose, none of the rings would move if it where tight.
Your lockring needs tightened.
Some or your sprockets won't move as they are mounted on a carrier which will be fairly tight on the free hub. The ones not on a carrier will have a fair bit a play if the lockring isn't tight enough
Ok, cheers guys.
I will give it a real good tighten when i get home and if it's still acting up I'll just get another cassette.
I gather then that you have to make it really tight for it not to come loose?
It needs to be eff-off tight, in old English engineering terms.
I gather then that you have to make it really tight for it not to come loose?
About 40Nm tight. That's very tight..
You need it done up to just over 'Real Damn Tight' on your torque wrench;
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Before you go all bear like with the tightening - take it off and look at the freehub body. You may / will see wear on it.
So you can then understand why some cogs are loose.
Tight or not, you will still have wear on this part. It wont kill the bike, but when it bothers you its time to replace it.
Great responses chaps.... I really didn't have it that tight so my bad... I will give it the beans when I get home 🙂
Do Hope freehubs need a 10 speed spacer? I know my Shimano ones do when mounting 10 speed cassettes. If that is missing it could explain the play.
Do Hope freehubs need a 10 speed spacer? I know my Shimano ones do when mounting 10 speed cassettes. If that is missing it could explain the play.
Are you sure about that? I've got Deore, SLX and XT hubs and no spacer required for a 10 speed cassette.
ok, so do I need a spacer or not? Does that go behind cassette next to the wheel?
Cheers
Word on the street is no...
http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/hope-evo-hubs-can-i-fit-a-10-speed-casette
Are you sure about that? I've got Deore, SLX and XT hubs and no spacer required for a 10 speed cassette.
Spacer needed on road wheels with a 10 speed cassette (except WH/FH-7800 and WH/FH-6700), not on MTB wheels.
Spacer or not, it should still interface with the freehub part. So if it rotates one of those bits is worn.
Tighten it all you like, wear is wear. Take it apart and look first before you over tighten it.
^^if the freehub body is worn it'll cause all sorts of problems including not being able to remove the cassette easily
Take the cassette off. If the freehub's not too worn remove any burrs, then re-assemble and tighten
If you're not happy with what you find email a photo to Hope, they're very helpful IME
Did you fit the correct cassette?
Hope say XT/980/1080 or above for the alloy carrier.
If they are moving then you could well have damaged the free hub, some cab be filed down some are dead if it's gone too far and it will be a right pain to remove (last one that went too far I binned with the cassette at about 7 years old)
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Spacer needed on road wheels with a 10 speed cassette (except WH/FH-7800 and WH/FH-6700), not on MTB wheels.
Ah Ok, thanks for clearing that up. So I assume lunge was talking about road wheels when he said he uses a spacer...
In my experience, that wear on the free hub body never causes the rings to be actually loose, provided the lockring is tight. I'd wager you need to nip it up.