You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Happy New year,
This year's resolution is to give 1x a try.
Going to fit a super star 30t NW chainring up front. Looking to retain some climbing ability for the sake of my knees so thinking of an 11-46 cassette (10 speed).
Rear mech is deore sgs, shimano says tooth capacity of 41. In theory I could go 11-52? Capacity being the difference between teeth in highest and lowest gears and a single chainring upfront doesn't need including in the calculations.
Cheers
M6000 mech? Quick look on Wiggle suggests 42t max sprocket size. You'd quite possibly get away with 46t, but 52 is going to be awkward.
Possibly an m6000, oem on x2 bossnut v2. Only marking I can see is the sgs stamp between the jockey wheels. Was hoping to get 46t on there. Anything with more teeth and it would be dragging on the ground.
As Martin says you have to look at the largest cog size as well as capacity. Shimano are somewhat conservative in their figures, presumably to avoid getting lots of complaints about the RD not working at the quoted figure, but I've found that you can usually go 2-4T bigger than the stated value without problems.
30:46 comes out at 19" which is pretty low, you're getting into trackstand territory! My lowest is 30:42 and I very rarely need to use it - usually it's long low angled draggy climbs at the end of the day, for steeper stuff I just stand and pedal.
SGS is a long cage mech (I'm assuming you're coming from a 2x setup), which means the max sprocket size will be even less. It's quote as 36t, which probably means 42t maybe in the real world. 46 would require something like a goatlink maybe (someone else would need to advise you if that would work), 52 out of the question, I'd have thought.
Have you already got your 10 speed drivetrain bought? Maybe think about 11 speed which offers more generous mechs.
+1 in my experience 42t is about the biggest sprocket you can get away with on a standard 10spd mech, and even that is a stretch. Beyond that you are looking at goatlinks or RADr cages.
The 11spd mechs have more capacity (and work with 10spd shifters) but that's more £.
Consensus seems to be 42t on the rear with a 30 upfront. Current set up looks to 36-22 chainrings with an 11-36 cassette.
I did look at 11 speed but factoring in a new mech and shifter as well was a bit prohibitive. As long as low end isn't lost is on comparison to the current x2 setup in willing to lose a mid range cog.
Im on 30x46..spot on for me. It's sram 11 speed and I ended up putting a sunrace link on so it worked better. Merlin cycles had em for about £8.
Consensus seems to be 42t on the rear with a 30 upfront. Current set up looks to 36-22 chainrings with an 11-36 cassette.
1x isn't for everyone. If you can't achieve the range you need at both ends, for knees, or roadwork, or whatever, then 2x may still be the best solution.
Consensus seems to be 42t on the rear with a 30 upfront. Current set up looks to 36-22 chainrings with an 11-36 cassette.
If you're happy to have a bottom gear about 16%* higher than you currently have then crack on.
*it's late, I'm tired so my maths may be incorrect 🙂
You can get a hanger extender bracket or whatever it's called to cope with wide range cassette.
Here's your current vs proposed setup.
Your new bottom gear will be higher than your current second biggest sprocket, by the looks of it. There's a reason why 1x setups tend to include dinnerplate cassettes!
I’ve done a quick Sheldon Brown gear calculator for you below. Allows a comparison of your existing gears with proposed new ones.
Clearly you’ll lose some top end speed vs the 36/11 you have now with a 30/11. For me my highest gear is a 32/10 and that’s plenty - but 10 speed you can’t get the 10 as it needs an Xd or microspline driver. Unless you’re really bothered about top speed on road or on wide own fireroad descents it’s unlikely to be an issue.
With a 30/42 you are giving away quite a lot of lowest gear spin though. So it depends if you often use the 22/36 combination or not really. Until I went 12 speed I had 30/42 as my lowest gear and it got me pretty much everywhere I thought I could ride - went up Snowdon with it (had to carry / push just the steps bit and a really steep gravelly slope (after you go under the railway) but rode the rest and a more spinny gear wouldn’t have got me up either).
If you could scrape to an 11-46 with the current mech and a goat link I would do that. If it won’t reach it’s a decision between just managing with 30/42 as your lowest gear or changing mech and shifter for 11 speed. You could then get the newest version of deore (m5100) and run an 11-51 cassette which gets you the same lowest gear you have now.
A quick look shows the band on m5100 shifter as £27.99 in stock at Biketart but the mech is out of stock in the U.K. from most places 😞. I wonder if the 12 speed deore m6100 would work on 11 speed with the m5100 shifter?
M6100 12 speed is £50 ish for the mech - which is in stock in most places (high on bikes is the £50 I’m quoting). The shifter is £30 in stock at Merlin.
12 speed deore cassette won’t fit an HG freehub though. Looks like the Sunrace MZ 12 speed cassette is the one that’s fit but it’s pretty expensive.
[url= https://i.postimg.cc/j2LXYk6H/E39-C361-D-8-D75-486-C-93-B2-03-BE183-A7-C7-C.pn g" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/j2LXYk6H/E39-C361-D-8-D75-486-C-93-B2-03-BE183-A7-C7-C.pn g"/> [/img][/url]
My experience and advice - work out what chainring you need based on what low/climbing gear you need.
Forget about the high/flat out gear. I promise you, that the number of times you will swear and spoil a ride by not bein able to climb a hill, will outweigh the number of times you spin out riding down a boring bit of tarmac by approximately 100 to 1.
I run Sram 10-42 casette and a 28 tooth chainring on 29 inch wheels. I can still ride along tarmac at 22mph, if I really wanted to - which I don't.
I run my surly with a double 22/32 at the front, with an 11-36 cassette, i can spin my top gear to just over 20mph.
I rarely use the little ring at the front, unless I’m loaded up of course.
I agree with snotrag, you’ll rarely notice the lack of top speed, but you will notice the lack of a ‘suitable’ climbing gear.
What is suitable for you may differ to what others find suitable.
You’ve nothing to lose by removing the front shifting and trying a 30t with your current cassette, you might find it ok, if not then it’s time to look at a bigger cassette.
Thanks all, top speed is a non issue so happy to lose that. Lowest gears are the ones I use when riding in the Peak. 12 speed isn't a possibility at the moment, cost seems to be the biggest hurdle. Looks like 11 speed and absorbing the cost may be the way to go and look at a setup that would handle a 50(ish)t cassette.
I went from 22/32 to a 30/40 and managed to adapt ok. Only real struggle is on Steep and Techy and I don't seem to walk any more sections than I did before I may just get off about 10 yards earlier. I think a 30-42 is worth a try before going 11 spd
If you’re thinking 11 speed and an 11-50 cassette then look around and try to find that deore m5100 rear mech.
Think it’ll work with any shimano 11 speed shifter - whatever is cheapest. I stuck an slx 11 speed shifter with m5100 on my nephews bike and an 11-46 Sunrace cassette. Once I’d figured out the mech hanger wasn’t 100% straight it shifted fine! 11-50 gives you essentially the same lowest gear as you have now with a 30t chainring.