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Ok, have a Hope Boost adaptor ....
So wheel needs to be move 5mm back into line ...
How easy is the re-dishing process ( I get the feeling that the half a turn loosing off on the disc side/ 1/2 tightening up on the non-disc side may just be the simplified version :-))
Some folk find it easy, some can't do it at all.
Give it a go, wcs is handing it to a shop to finish.
It is quite easy. Slacker one, tighten the other...
Generally I wouldn't even bother loosening any off, most used wheels will happily take a bit more tension. Also letting tension out tends to be a bit less exact in a used wheel. How easy it is will depend on condition and parts- whether you have any seized nipples , even tension etc already but if it's basically a good wheel then it's probably going to be smooth as butter
And Al is spot on- if you don't do it yourself it goes to a shop, if you try yourself and fail it goes to a shop, and get made fun of.
It's dead easy if you're happy wheel fettling. I did my dt swiss wheels after fitting a boost converter last week and it took 10 minutes per wheel with the tyre still on and without a jig. I do use a homemade [cardboard] dishing tool.
If your spokes where built with adhesive or any other funny business it may be trickier, but as above a bike shop will sort it out if it goes belly up.
Thanks all,
Will be away for the weekend. Will give it a go on Monday....
And report back
Simplified instructions, as presumably you don't have a jig and experience, keep wheels on bike, put a couple of zip ties around fork/frame level with rim as a makeshift jig.
Don't try to move the rim 5mm without loosening the one side - unless they are really loose/wrong length spokes you'll end up in a mess. 1/2 turn loosen then 1/2 turn tighten - check the dishing - repeat (1/4 or 1/8 turns as necessary).
Take your time!,
I did my front Hope hub with a 5mm redish only last week.
Did it by taking half a turn out one side then back on the other.
Did this 4 times and the wheel was more or less central but had oddly ended up with a bit of a kink in it.
Put it in the forks and used a cable tie, then took a bit out one side and applied the other where the kick was .
It's now dead central and better trued than the rear.
Can't measure poke tension accurately but just squeezed (gently) two side by side spokes all the way round and all felt even and as tight as other bikes, so I left it at that.
Two rides in and all seems good.
And my wheel truing stand finally turned up yesterday 😀
Blimey ... that worked.
The first wheel was easy ... the second one I lost concentration on ... resulting in a kick. Â However, I have now managed to rectify that ...
Feeling quite pleased with the results ...
*thumbs up*