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So I'm trying to get my cranks off and have undone the right side (chainring side) 8mm hex bolt. The left side crank is joined to the spindle and ought to just slide out - it doesn't and despite some encouragement with a big mallet its not moving. I'm whacking the end of the spindle which is rebated into the right crank arm. Is it just stiff and needs more whacking or have I missed something? Any advice please.
buy a proper crank puller
or have I missed something?
The self-extraction bolt/cap? Probably lying on a trail somewhere...
Have you removed the non drive arm form the spindle?
Have you tried using a rock?
what Three_Fish said - there's supposed to be a cap on the drive side crank that stops the bolt pulling out and forces the crank off the plines instead.
The self-extraction bolt/cap?
This.
Presuming you have the bolt, there's supposed to be a metal cap that goes on after it. You insert your allen key through it to engage the inner bolt and as you loosen the bolt it braces against the cap to force the crankarm off.
Does that make sense?
Thanks for the replies. I've never seen anything on the cranks that not still there. there nothing on the non drive side and just the regular 8mm bolt on the drive side. When its all done up the bolt and black 3mm spacer washer sit flush in the crank arm. So is the answer to buy the extractor as per ftr1873's weblink?Thanks
So is the answer to buy the extractor as per ftr1873's weblink?
Yes.
(It can be confirmed if you post a picture of the drive-side crank.)
Yep, you need a crank extractor, make sure you get one for ISIS or Octalink cranks as the ones for square taper are a different size.
Yep, you need a crank extractor, make sure you get one for ISIS or Octalink cranks as the ones for square taper are a different size.
A normal crank extractor won't work. It needs the RF self-extractor cap.
Are they like these:
[img] 
[/img]
Remove the bolt - that will leave both sides stuck together - then use a crank extractor to seperate the drive side off the non driveside splines.
Once the drive side is off just tap the axle through the BB.
One of these:
[img] 
[/img]
I thought, I may be wrong, that the RF Evolve Cranks didn't need a crank puller, I thought it was inbuilt to the actual bolt...
I thought there was one hole that 2 sizes of Allen keys fits in, and you use those 2 to pull/push it off..
Dont worry if theyr'e anything like mine after a year the splines are worn and they wont stay together - currently with Silverfish awaiting a response on the issue.
A quick google suggests its quite a common fault with these splines.
So it also depends on the year of the crank, earlier ones used the self extractor. The hole in the centre of the chainset is too big to screw in a crank extractor. The newer ones have a smaller hole and can use the crank extractor.
I thought, I may be wrong, that the RF Evolve Cranks didn't need a crank puller, I thought it was inbuilt to the actual bolt...
This appears to be the confusion - hence I asked for a picture to confirm what the OP has; although I didn't think that the Evolve had ever come with the 'normal' crank bolts as carbon337's picture shows. Looks like newer ones have dispensed with the self-extractor.
3f - tonight 5:30 ish at the place we cant mention if you fancy?
I've got an OE '07 version of those and they don't have the self extracting bolt.
A normal crank extractor won't work. It needs the RF self-extractor cap.
Not correct, a standard ISIS/Octalink crank extractor will work, I know because I have used just that.
Would love to; but I'm working until late, unfortunately. I was going to give you a shout and see if you fancied it on Thursday or Friday - I'm off both days.
Not correct, a standard ISIS/Octalink crank extractor will work, I know because I have used just that.
It's good to know what you have; but more important to know what the OP has.
Not all Evolve cranks have the same mounting. The older ones used two counter rotating bolts so it sounds as if you've got the newer set which will requite a crank puller, or the fitment of a self extracting bolt kit. The latter isn't expensive.
I have to agree with Carbon337, mine died after eighteen months before the splines on the driveside arm wore out. You can eke more life out of them by grinding down the non-drive side axle so that the splines fit tighter but it's really delaying the inevitable.
Silverfish? Forget it.
I've replaced mine with SLX on bike 1 and Truvativ Stylo on bike 2. The Stylos have a very similar crank interface, but have clocked up two years useage without any issue at all.
Thanks again for the replies. Carbon337 - yes mine does look like the picture. Once the 8mm bolt is removed it reveals the thread into which it screws and also a wider unused thread (presumably this is where the self extractor bit was fitted on other models?). I'll go off and get an ISIS puller.
The next problem is getting new rings. RF went bust and ukbikestore have no stock. I'm busy checking other suppliers. I'm in Australia and if you think the UK dealers suck then think again as they are really bad here - thank god (or her sister) for the web.
Thanks all.
Spanners, any 104 BCD rings will work as far as I'm aware.
When I first enquired with Silverfish about them they told me the crankset ha a 3 yr warranty and that this was the exi 2010 spline. No wonder they went bust though making crap like these. They came on a 2010 Orange Five and only lasted 12 months before failing.
Likewise - mine came on an Orange 5.
Right so my RF Deus crank is dead then... the drive side works loose over the course of a ride, I have to keep tightening it up... Bum..... Only done 200 miles tops. Shame it looks the biz.
Any advice on what to replace it with?
Ro5ey - Shimano - to do it cheapish get a set of SLX crank arms off the classifieds and transfer your Deus rings across, you can keep the BB as well.
On-one are doign shimano cranksets cheap currently if you want all new.