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What is it with them that everybody hates?
Do they just knacker quickly?
The used to. After two I gave up.
I never let a hose come within a mile of mine and it still lasted just 3 months
They are extremely mud phobic
Phil Wood is a lying shitbag
Very rarely have a problem with them anymore(though they were absolutely dire at one time), I put it down to them requiring the BB shell to be an exactly machined size to prevent the bearings being pre-loaded.Seems the manufacturers that we deal with have cottoned on to this too, as i'm no longer doing regular strip-down/facing on brand new bikes with stiff feeling BBs, and customers are no longer wheeling in 2month old bikes with knackered bearings.If you're going to fit one, i'd recommend reading the instructions, and getting your shell faced to the min. tolerance recommended(0.25mm undesize).
Even RACEFACE say it is difficult to fit poorly designed chainsets.
".....[b]we are dealing with fractions of a millimeter here!!![/b]"
that is how intolerant Raceface chainsets are of an variations is sizes of BB shells, by fractions of a millimetre.
"There are a number of reasons that the cranks could feel excessively tight to turn.
*Improper spacing is BY FAR the leading cause of "tight" crank issues. Too many spacers is the culprit in most cases, and some steps need to be taken to insure you have the correct amount of spacers for your particular set up.
1. Ensure BB shell threads are chased cleanly and that BB shell is faced (after painting). *MEASURE ACCURATELY - we are dealing with fractions of a millimeter here!!!
2. Ensure BB shell width is within tolerance. If it is too wide:face-mill BB shell down until it is within required spec. If the shell width is correct, and the problem still exists, try the following options:
OPTION 1:
- Remove assembly from bike.
- Remove 1 x 1mm chainline spacer seal (preferably from non-drive side so chainline isn't affected).
- Re-install remaining spacer seal and re-install assembly onto bike.
OPTION 2:
- Remove assembly from bike.
- Remove spacers seal(s) from LH (non-drive) side of spindle assembly.
- Remove 3.5mm Quad-Ring preload elastomer from recess in LH crank and replace with supplied 2.5mm pre-load elastomer (flat shape, black rubber) into recess in LH crank.
- Re-install spacers and re-install assembly onto bike."
I've had a Raceface Team Issue BB on my full suss for 10 months now and it's been fine, ridden through all sorts of conditions & weathers.
The Ride level one on my SS has been fine for over 18 months with lots of use, mainly in wet muddy crappy conditions when I don't take the geared bike out. It even survived last winters temps down to -15deg C round by us
hey i had a RaceFace BB... rode in all kinds of weathers and lasted two years...i recently upgraded to Hope, the guy in the bike shop said there was still about 3 months worth of riding left with the RaceFace BB !... yeah alot of people dont like them...i duno why ?
Macavity - Memberthat is how intolerant Raceface chainsets are of an variations is sizes of BB shells, by fractions of a millimetre.
Well, not really, because if you replace the terrible Raceface BB with a Shimano one, they work fine.
Mines been fine for 18 months, but I never point a hose at it and always remain a bit paranoid about their rep.