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I don't seem to have learnt.
I had them on my old SL Pro and had a bit of a WTF moment when I took them off and saw most of the clear coat missing.
Then I thought they'll be okay on the Ti frame, but no. I've had to polish out the wear marks.
So when I put them on my painted steel frame I thought I'd add a layer of tape as protection. However I took them off last night and they've worn through the paint down to bare metal.
I do put them on very tight, by that I mean I stretch the bands as far as they will go.
So unless I'm missing something blindingly obvious they're coming off and Cruds are going on.
But surely I'm not the only person to have this issue?
they did the same on my Jake - I got rid of them and use a daft looking Zefal Swan thing that mounts on the seatpost now
Same problem with them on my Paddy Wagon - in fairness I did leave them in place for 2 years without checking though!
Now have a set of full length 'proper' mudguards which were a nightmare to fit but are a big improvement 🙂
Did the same to my scr. Trouble is they rock back & forth and grit gets in between the frame & rubber so grinds the paint away. Use Heli tape on the stays now.
You've managed to wear through the tape you put on to protect the paint?
Buy a mountain bike. Sorted.
Raceblade longs FTW. No more frame attachment as they slot in next to your QRs, but they're a bit more of a faff to put on as a result. But none of the incessant tyre rub that comes with cruds.
Use old rubber inner tubes as boundary between frame and mudguard.
I used electrical tape.
I have mentioned em on here before. Wore through carbon on an old trek oclv. Binned em after that and got a proper winter bike iwth full mudguards and a massive flap on the rear 🙂
Unless you put tonnes down no wonder it wore through. I put some helitape on mine, seems to have worked.
[quote=njee20 ]Unless you put tonnes down no wonder it wore through. I put some helitape on mine, seems to have worked.
+1