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I've just got a new CAAD 12, after riding around the block to make sure it fitted me I messed with the cables because they went into the DT without crossing the HT, which looked horrible and was rubbing the frame, and the last section of outer into the rear mech was at a terrible angle, so I trimmed the outer an inch. RD is shifting fine and the outer is much less contorted, the front is proving to be difficult.
I've used the Dealer Manual, watched the Youtube videos but I don't understand the reasoning behind setting up the High Limit screw (top adjustment bolt) in the trim position. If I do this, when I shift into the 11t rear and highest at the front the chain rubs. If I adjust to clear the cage in the biggest gear, it rubs in the big ring and 4th from the top (without trim). Traditionally the high limit screw was always set when you were in your biggest gear.
Then in 1st gear (small ring, biggest cog) I have to give the FD a nudge inboard to reach the low limit stop, there's a small gap which the mech won't retract into unless I help it.
This last symptom would point me towards a cable issue, when I rerouted them I'm pretty sure they weren't wrapped around each other...
The white lines are lined up in the high trim position. The bike came without a backup plate installed (it's braze on), luckily I had a spare from the last 6800 groupset I fitted. I can't bolt on the mech with with back of the cage inboard like it says and then tighten the support bolt. When I tighten the 5mm bolt it just pulls parallel to the big ring so the support bolt isn't doing much. Shall I fit a new cable and start over or is there an easy fix that I've missed?
Nothing to add apart from I find setting up my r8000 front mech similarly frustrating...
I have to dig out the user manual every time I change the cable.
I'm suspecting it's the cable routing for some reason, but to check it I need to pull both cables out from under the BB just to see what's happening, and even then it's hard to see without pulling the BB out too!
The internal routing is a nightmare on the Caad12 disc I have. I changed a cable and outer and it was one of the most frustrating bike jobs I’ve ever done.
I had fun and games with both mechs - but the front mech was most frustrating stopping the cage rubbing. I’m not really sure what I did in the end to sort it but it’s good ish now!
It’s enough to make me long to get rid of 2x11 105 and replace it with Force1 or something like that.....
But the front derailleur cable only goes from the top of the DT to below the BB so I can't see how there can be an issue in there? Does yours have that clear plastic sheathing protruding from the BB area towards the mech? I wonder if the inner should just run over the black guide instead?
The newer type Shimano front mechs can be a real pain to set up, I can usually get them working fine on Shimano's own chainsets, but struggle to get a good set-up on anything Cannondale have fitted to their bikes. Just guessing, but I suspect the measurements between rings etc. differ from Shimano's, and knowing how Shimano like to set everything up around a complete system, it wouldn't surprise me if that is the case.
Spent another couple of hours on it, took the mech off and stuck the support plate on and started again. I actually think the FSA ring isn't quite straight, when I turn it I can see the chain moving left and right which is causing the rubbing.
Does the mech have a removable pin that guides the cable into the clamp? Make sure it's in the right position and your cable goes the right side of it. Shimano supply a plastic gauge plate that helps you measure the line of your cable to get this right.
The latest Shimano front mechs are a bit of a pain - you need lots of cable tension to get the trim function to work correctly - internally routed cables also make it worse. Assuming the mech is correctly positioned with the cable off, wind in the lower stop screw until the mech cage is about 5-6mm over. Make sure cable adjustment screw is wound out. Install cable. Wind-out the lower stop screw to get correct inner position and use the adjuster if needed. Just the higher stop screw.
No Neil, the 7000 doesn't use that pin like the previous versions.
Cheers Dovebiker, will try that tomorrow morning.
I think it's fixed, yet to ride the bloody thing but must have done about 100 miles on the work stand! It's that initial cable tension I was missing. Despite using the 2mm bolt to set the cable tension so the marks are aligned, without the initial tension it will never work. Got it tight enough that I didn't need to wind in the tension screw at all.
Dropping from the big ring into the granny requires 2 shifts for some reason, is that normal? Ie, it drops into the small ring but the shifter needs a second tap because it's in the low trim position. My 6800 doesn't do that.