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I'm off to look at tubes Monday for a steel road bike.
Nothing special, just steel to take modern'ish kit.
Couple of things I want as my mate is building it is longer TT than an off the peg bike would give me. And shorter stays.
Does that mean I'll need a slacker seat tube?
One of my riding characteristics when pushing hard is too sit right back and extend my arms. I like to feel the rear wheel under me.
I adopt the same position when climbing.
Shorter than the 405-410 of most road bikes?
If you lengthen the TT by slackening the seat angle to 72 deg while keeping the head tube / f wheel in the same place it'll sit you further back but not upset the out-of-saddle position, the 'reach'. You could then add a bit more to the TT if needed and it'll increase front-centre. One thing I'd be cautious of doing after that is also shortening the stays, it'll shift your weight balance even more towards the rear wheel (ie it's already a bit more rearward biased than normal from the seated position or longer f-c) and you may get some less-than-confident cornering weighting. But nothing you can't compensate for by leaning fwd a bit as you turn in.
Bicycle sizing and geometry is serious stuff. Don't try and second guess it; leave it to the professionals. The first thing I would suggest for you is a good bike fit.
hmm, choices choices.......
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😉
Hmmm, I like the idea of short stays and longer TT too, never done it mind.
I like the idea of short stays for climbing, understand that feeling but what about normal flats or downhill? I'd say most of your riding takes place on flat or rolling 70% flat/30% rolling without many/any really steep hill sections of 20%+, unless I'm wrong, which means you'll be building a bike for less than 30% of your normal riding. Unless you are riding the Dolomites 😀 in which case build it and post pics 😉
shorter stays manual better, long stays add stability. I'd guess neither are of any importance to your road bike.
the only advantage in shorter stays will be stiffness, which begs the question, Why use steel?
I wouldn't particularly want a frame built by anyone who couldn't explain the above to you. nevermind the rest of your questions.
Cheers.
Firstly I'm just clearing up a few things in my head before we meet.
Secondly I just 'want' a steel frame.
Also price, a normal off the peg steel would be in my case 54 square. To get 54X56 I need custom, and as this is just a tough heavy frame for an old codger to ride on week in week out I don't need or want to spend custom build money.
(look how hard it is to find something steel that takes modern running gear cheaply)
Dug out my last steel road customs geometry 400 stays.
The guy does have a business building and selling frames, mainly fixie track jobs, but does build road as well as MTB's and full sussers. He also manufactures parts for some high end builders.
davidtaylforth - Member
Would this suit? Size large, but the ETT is only 55.5cm
Very nice, where are you getting the dimensions?
Great value to, though I do want something simpler i.e threaded BB 'standard' 11/8" ahead steel straight fork.
The Ciocc is like my racing bike.
Handled the pipes. Looks like a 54x55.5 main triangle, 405mm stays. Part SL and a softer rear triangle.
Steel straight blade fork.
Looking at colours on bike cad, but have my heart set on Gulf Oil orange and blue.
Design is in place. Simple Chromor filet brazed with a lugged seat cluster.
55 c-c top tube. 53 c-t seat tube. 410 stays. 137 head tube.
Duck egg blue and light orange
Looking forward to the build.