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Is a 42/30 going to give me an equivalent granny gear to a 22x36, if not what will? Yes I need it and no I'm not going to man up or get used to pushing.
Thanks in advance.
No. Its a bit higher. 22-36 is very low though. Do you need it or just use it because you have it? I'm pretty unfit and lazy but didn't really miss my bottom gear when I went 1x10. Its more a change of pedalling style than manning up.
I like having a proper granny ring and use it often so ideally I want an equivalent. I'm not unfit or lazy. I can't imagine making the steep climb to the tower at Leith Hill without a granny ring for example.
You don't lose all the granny gears, just the very bottom 1 (or maybe 2). 30/42 will be the same as 22/31. I suspect your current second from bottom is 22/32 so almost the same.
You'd need somewhere between 30/48 and 30/50 to replicate your current 22/36 gear.
I can't imagine making the steep climb to the tower at Leith Hill without a granny ring for example.
I can't do it with one 😆
http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/ is good for this, example: http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/#27.5I324I1X27.5I1122I1894
22-36 is 0.63, 30-42 is 0.74. So very slightly harder than one cog down from easiest, but easier than two cogs down on your current setup. Not a lot in it.
Sometimes that "one cog" is a difference between riding up or walking... On yesterdays ride I had a couple of climbs (loose gravel/rocks), where my thumb was trying to "shift up just one more... please...." despite being on the 22/36 already 😆
Even though I'm a 1x10 convert (and I do like it) I'd still say that it's not for everyone and there are definite compromises you have to make.
Compared with a 3x10 setup you lose roughly three ratios depending on what size chainring you go for these can be at the top, bottom or split between the two in some way. It depends on where you ride and whether you need the lower end to get up climbs or the higher end to avoid spinning out.
Going 1x is like an easier version of going singlespeed: you just have to give yourself time to get used to things. To some degree it is a case of manning up but it's a gradual process not a step change. I struggled a bit with a 30T and 11-40 cassette to begin with but built up leg strength and can now handle a 32T chainring. (This is for Dales and Peak riding). There are times when I do get off and walk but I'd probably be walking no matter what gear ratio or drivetrain I'd be using - if a climb is rocky/technical then being in a higher gear can be advantageous as you can put a bit more power down to push through the obstacles.
Did the Bronte MTB challenge yesterday and the only bits I walked were bits that everyone was walking whatever their drivetrain, bits like Stairs lane and the top of Gorple Gate where it's been washed out.
Thanks for the help and advice. I'll try 30x42 and see if I get used to it.
medoramas - MemberSometimes that "one cog" is a difference between riding up or walking...
Isn't walking faster than using a 22:36 anyway?
Isn't walking faster than using a 22:36 anyway?
I don't think it is actually! For example one part of the annual MTB event is South Devon "Devon Dirt" goes up a pretty long and steep climb called Lenda Lane - I normally ride it up on 22:36 and overtake the walking co-riders quite significantly.
+ I'm riding a bike not going for a walk. Anyway I just got a 28T direct mount Sram ring that fits my cranks from CRC for 4 quid so I'll start experimenting there and when I'm more manly I'll get a 30T I suppose.
Isn't walking faster than using a 22:36 anyway?
By the time you factor in the stall-time, the dismount, the swearing, the remount, the first failed attempt to get going again, etc it certainly isn't.
I tend to get a lot more tired having to get off and push on a climb than just keeping a steady, albeit mind-blowingly slow, pace going all the time.