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My new Rebas arrived with this on top:
... which I assume is where the cable goes for a bar-mounted lockout lever (not supplied).
Am I right in thinking it can be replaced with something like this?
Is it an easy enough job or will the fork start firing springs and sharpened cogs into my eyes when I take off the existing lever?
I believe you have to replace some internal parts as well as the knob. Not 100% on that.
What year and travel are those forks?
2019 parts list/diagram here
Go to Page 54 onwards for Rebas
THanks @piemonster. They're 2018/19 model I think - 100mm. Not sure I'm enough of an engineer* to understand that technical doc though 🙁
*in that I am most certainly not
It's probably doable, I did it years ago on a REBA and I think you need to replace the cartridge under the lockout because of the return spring which works against the lockout cable.
I think (still not 100%) it’d be this
Or something very like it
Thanks folks. I am 100% not up for buying new cartridges and stuff.
Might have to send these back 🙁
I've got the remote I'd sell you if you'd like. Honestly they don't lock out very well anyway.
Might have to send these back
If they're supplied without the lockout lever, that would be quite reasonable.
Don't know if its still the same, but there used to be two rockshox remote lockout options, pushloc and poploc.
One was locked out with no cable tension, the other was open with no cable tension. (can't remember which was which).
The 'open with no cable tension' one was possible to change to a top mounted lockout knob by disconnecting the spring in the damper and changing the knob, I think PP from here did a write up on it.
I think you need to change the damper if it's the other one.
Thanks for the help everyone.
I've found PeterPoddy's PDF (its here
It's a few years old now so not sure if it's still relevant - who knows what magic RockShox have been doing in their dampers in the last 10 years. Will try emailing TFTuned to see if they know.
UPDATE: I just spoke to TFTuned and they advised that PP's method that I linked to up there ^^ will work. They said it would be better to open up the damper to remove the spring rather than just disconnecting it.
I'm off to go and find some socket wrenches!
Another update: The PP method worked! As advised, once I got the damper out, I took it apart (easy - it's just a reverse thread on the same nut that holds it into the fork) and now my forks will be ~3g lighter.
Oh, and I ordered the part from TFTuned rather than BikeInn, cause they spent a few mins on the phone explaining everything to me. Great service.