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These are my cranks and BB.
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That nut marked 0.7-1.5 Nm M18 keeps working itself loose - leading to 5mm-ish play if I pull or push the crank - through the BB. While I accept that I am probably putting massive power 😬 through the cranks, I’d rather it didn’t happen - am I undertightening it or should I pop the nut out and put some threadlock on there?
Im in a campsite in a france and have no access to a Torque wrench but 0.7 - 1.5 Nm doesn’t seem that much does it?
Its not meant to be much, Thats the pre-load ring which just takes up slack. It should be feeble hand tight only. The real work is done by the two bolts at the end of the crank. Thats where your problem is.
The real work is done by the two bolts at the end of the crank. Thats where your problem is.
Yes. The pre-load ring is only important when assembling die BB.
The 10.8-14.7 Nm screws need to get torqued proper.
First loosen these screws. Then put pre-load on with the pre-load ring. Then torque the crank with roughly 13 Nm (if you don't have a torque wrench. This isn't "little" torque...)
After first rides: re-torque these screws to 13 Nm. Two or three times until the bolts "hold their prestress / torque".
The "pre-load" ring, just in the case this thing won't stay in place: you can put into your pocket. But the cranks have to stay in place! One problem: between crank and BB bearing there should be no gap - if there is a gap dirt will go into the BB and then the BB only will last a couple weeks more...
Ok, I’ve got that chaps. Thanks very much for your help. I’ll sort it out this evening before tomorrow morning’s ride.
I read on this forum that if you ask nicely whilst wearing speedos that a budgie kindly flies into action to tighten things up enough.
😝
My trick on this older generation FSA crank clamp style is to be sensitive to the preload but then tighten it further once your crank to spindle cinch bolts.are torqued.
1. Set your preload torque bolt. (New blue thread lock as it's not on there anymore I guess)
2. Torque up your cinch Bolt's.
3. Put an extra 'bit' on the preload bolt. This won't chance the actual preload amount on the BB as the the crank arms won't move inboard now it's all right but will stop the bolt loosening off.
My trick on this older generation FSA crank clamp style is to be sensitive to the preload but then tighten it further once your crank to spindle cinch bolts.are torqued.
This assumes that your spindle spacers are correct and you have enough spindle to crank arm clamping surface cross over (enough 'insertion')
1. Set your preload torque bolt. (New blue thread lock as it's not on there anymore I guess)
2. Torque up your cinch Bolt's.
3. Put an extra 'bit' on the preload bolt. This won't chance the actual preload amount on the BB as the the crank arms won't move inboard now it's all right but will stop the bolt loosening off.