Problem with my bal...
 

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Problem with my balls.

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Posts: 2010
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Do I have too many in my front hub?
Cup and cone, 3/16 bearings, thru axle, no branding on hub.
New wheel, felt slightly rough so I took a look inside expecting to see minimal grease but saw what looks like 1 bearing too many.
14 in each side.
I always thought that there needed to be a small gap between the bearings? With 14 there was no gap. With 13 there is room for a 1 more but then they have no gap.
Hubs run smooth with 13.

I know the answer would be to take the wheels back for shop advice but I usually solve this sort of stuff myself.
Does it void my warranty mucking about with my balls 😉


 
Posted : 28/01/2023 3:59 pm
Posts: 3131
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Less rather than more.

Don't refit used balls as they ovalise slightly and don't sit right back in the race.
Fit new ones.

Personally I hate cup & cone hubs. Absolute ballache.


 
Posted : 28/01/2023 4:52 pm
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There does not need to be a whole ball extra space.  Id go for 14.  More likely IMO the rough bearing was due to it being overtigtened.  Can you get it smooth with 14 balls?  I have seen a variety of different numbers of ball i a race

New wheel?  should have returned it but you cant really now


 
Posted : 28/01/2023 4:55 pm
Posts: 2010
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Topic starter
 

I've opted for the lower number of balls. I have taken one out from each side of each hub. Both wheels now run smooth with no play with the wheel out and none with the hub under compression with the wheel in the frame.

Don’t refit used balls as they ovalise slightly and don’t sit right back in the race.

I hadn't considered that. I think I have some new bearings somewhere that I'll fit when I find them or if the cones get play in them on the next ride.

New wheel? should have returned it but you cant really now

I've not ridden the bike yet. Wheels are part of a full bike which had been reduced to clear at a big bike store. I will in time replace the hubs or wheels if I see a set in the sales if these cause me trouble.

Thanks for the help.


 
Posted : 28/01/2023 6:03 pm
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Personally I hate cup & cone hubs. Absolute ballache.

Chill out mate, you'll can't just say that around here. You'll awaken the Kraken.


 
Posted : 28/01/2023 6:18 pm
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No - I do.
It's not a roadie forum (or shouldn't be).

Also - there is meant to be a small amount of play which disappears when you tighten the quick release.


 
Posted : 28/01/2023 8:25 pm
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Anyone remember the glory days of cottered cranks?


 
Posted : 28/01/2023 8:26 pm
Posts: 2010
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Topic starter
 

I still have the tools for loose bearing bottom brackets somewhere. Hopefully I'll never need to use them again!

I was pleased to find I had 2*17mm cone spanners earlier amongst the tools I rarely use.


 
Posted : 28/01/2023 8:41 pm
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@stirling crispin

I thought that shimanos hollow tech was the epitome of cottered cranks.

That, and whatever was fitted to your Raleigh chopper/ grifter😂😂😂

No idea why they still make cup and cone hubs. Most c&c wheel-sets seem to end up recycled, long before anyone thinks to service them.


 
Posted : 29/01/2023 12:19 am
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@Greatbeardedone

I think Raleigh Grifters had one-piece cranks. Never had one so not certain.

My bike at uni was a wee bit older.
Purchased second-hand in 1933 from Tottenham market.
Given to my Dad when he passed his 11+ and then onto me in the late 1980s..

Brakes took tandem brakepads, had weird tyre sizes, and cottered cranks.
You had to hammer the cotter pins in to secure the cranks and then file them down.


 
Posted : 29/01/2023 7:32 am
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You had to hammer the cotter pins in to secure the cranks and then file them down.

Two different sizes of cotter pin. File the taper on the correct size to get a good fit, hammer/press and then tighten the nut. Simple but time-consuming


 
Posted : 29/01/2023 7:52 am
Posts: 3131
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File the taper on the correct size to get a good fit, hammer/press and then tighten the nut.

Thanks!
Last done 40 years ago so my memory is a bit vague.


 
Posted : 29/01/2023 8:01 am

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