 You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Quick one (and probably daft).
Â
Is there any consensus on where the bite point adjustment should be on a Shimano brake lever for the bleeding procedure?
Â
For the avoidance of doubt, I'm not talking about Freestroke, I'm just talking about the winding knob things that push/pull the lever blade in relation to the grip.
Â
Obviously, in theory, there should be no difference. This is a mechanical adjustment outside of the hydraulic system. But is there a thing where having the lever as far out off the grip as possible achieves a better full bleed of air? Or would having the lever all the way to the bar provide more 'room' for something?
Â
The main reason I ask is that I have one set of SLX brakes that I cannot get to any bite point whilst bleeding unless the lever is pushed at least 60% of the way on the reach adjuster. But then they end up (after bedding in) quite a long way off the lever at the bite point.
Â
I think the answer may be that Shimano just aren't that great and each set has its own characteristics, but if anyone has any real knowledge, it would be good to hear.
lever further out in theory means you will definitely achieve a full stroke, if you know what I mean, but really it shouldn't make a difference.Â
if you need to adjust your bite point, and have no freestroke adjuster, with the wheel out, squeeze the lever maybe 3/4 of the way, refit the wheel and see if it makes a difference. you may need to give it one full squeeze to get the pistons in a bit.Â
alternatively, get thicker rotors than shimano's 1.8mm
No issue with the reach adjuster being anywhere. Just make sure you wind out the free stroke adjustment screw all the way. It makes a surprising amount of difference when you wind it back in once everything is all buttoned up tight again.
Any chance that they are within the 2 year warranty? I've never had an issue bleeding Shimano ever. I had always wound out any adjusters to maximum, then just bleed.
Having been on Shimano for 20+ years, we've moved over to Magura, TRP and SRAM DB and I'm much happier with, as yet, not a drop of maintenance or change in performance for over a year....Magura and TRP particularly seem to maintain power without any faff.
Whereas my @2015+ model year Shimano's seemed to have all sorts of squealing, low power and occasional bite point wanderings on a regular basis. My old old Shimano's were rock solid and never needed much at all...
Â
Â
I thought it was supposed to be lever fully out to bleed. I only use Deores so just the one Allen key adjustment and whatever that does to make the lever tip furthest from the bars. Â