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keeps working loose and i can feel the loose headset when i ride 🙁
anyoneelse had this issue
Must be the stem, surely?
or the star flanged nut is knackered?
I was reading earlier today a highly factual post on some forum somewhere in the world (can't remember where) but that CK headsets had a tendency to loosen on big hits. guessing your riding is the n.shore stuff?
or the star flanged nut is knackered?
Once the stem is nipped up, it doesn't do anything
You using the CK 1.5 headlock?
I had mine come loose a couple times, so I just romped the headlock up a bit tighter than what it really should be, and not had any problems since.
CK for XC/AM is fine. Great bearings and seals. But since CK doesn't have separate compression rings (Cane Creek owns the patent), they have a tendency to loosen up if you use it for DH/FR. On huge or multiple big impacts, CK's top piece with the rubber o-ring can't handle the stress and the steerer tube will move a little, resulting on loose stem over time. Not always and not everyone since all depends on your setup. But I have seen many complaints. That is why you won't see many on DH/FR bikes. Some actually jerryrig CK's to work with compression rings. CK also doesn't make flush headsets.Having said all that, one of mine held up fine, and my brother's 1.5" is fine also so far.
http://www.socaltrailriders.org/forum/workshop/31196-chris-king-headset-vs-acros.html#post474390
Jedi - if you're not using the CK headlock and would like to have one I have a spare sitting in the garage. They work really well. You can have this one free but I'd ask you to make a small donation to Help For Heroes.
Let me know if you're interested.
i am using the headlock 🙁
dirtbiker, CK have now changed to 'Griplock' for thier 1 1/8" headsets, which eliminates that problem.
(the introduction of griplock happened not long after the Cane Creek patents expired for A-headsets...)
You can buy griplock conversion kits to upgrade older headsets.
Jedi, slacken it all of completely, romp the headlock up using a decent allen key, then tighten the stem up as normal.
If that doesn't work, then get a decent 1.5 headset with a taper locking ring. (CK 1.5s use the same set-up as their original headsets, which means it doesn't really lock positively)
new headset i reckon
a griplok should solve it properly, it eliminates the movement in the top part of the headset as well as anything else
where do i get one?
CK don't do a 1.5 griplock.
They don't even have the 1 1/8" griplock listed on their own site, and very few online sites even mention it.
[i]Once the stem is nipped up (the star nut) doesn't do anything[/i]
Apart from load the bearings. 😎
CK, they do list the 1 1/8" on their site but your right, doesnt seem to be a 1.5 made yet...pretty poo... veedubba, the star nut doesnt load the bearings at all unless your stem isnt tight enough..
Why not keep it CK on the lower race where the stresses and dirt are and put a cheaper brand with a compression ring on the top race.
qwerty, thats what i will do
The CK 1.5 has a crush ring... my guess is the big impacts crush the crush ring and the headset gets loose. I've had to tighten mine a couple of times but it seems to have settled down now. The Acros I had never needed tightening but it rusted solid in a year... but the new ones have stainless bearings I believe. Balfa were great with a warranty. I'll see how the CK goes... only been in a month.
Vee dub once the stem is tightened you could remove the top cap and ride without it the star nut is redundant once the stem is clamped. True weight weenies have done just that.
I stand corrected and feel slighty silly.
S'pose it makes sense if you actually consider how a headset works.
😳
Tony you can buy just the top half of a Hope headset. Just did it the other way round when I changed the forks on the Nomad to 1.5 taper steerer forks from 1 1/8. Hope use a wedge in the top to secure. A straight 1.5 steerer works slightly better than tapered steerers on single crown forks I believe as it offers a greater clamping area for the stem so doesn't allow the headset to work loose so easily. Another thing i have found seems to work is using a single headset spacer rather than one or two. I just use a single 30mm alloy washer that Hope make under the stem. If you uses a few separate washers it seems to also allow the headset more opportunity to loosen.
think there's a bastardisation using cane creek stuff/idea? Dr Jon fashioned something and there's prob a thread on mtbr
radioman, i ordered just that today 🙂
I thought you would have taken the "throw it to ****" attitude by now instead of agreeing with mixing and matching headsets!
I would get shot of the whole damn thing.Waste of time,money,energy,stress... the list goes on!
waste of stress.. i like that one ;O)
when i remove it i will batter it with a hammer and nail it to a construction
:O)