 You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Following my earlier post on the original PSA thread i thought id have another go at "fixing my sticky freehub".
Turns out it may not have been the freehub at all but the fixed collar on the axle being a mm or two too short.
Id previosly mentioned that when cinching up the driveside QR adaptor nut to take all play out of the cassette it would bind against the fixed collar. I just rolled a thin rubber o ring on to the axle, snugging it up to the fixed collar. If thin enough,the freehub slides over the o ring and the 1-2mm difference means you can now cinch up the qr nut without it binding, allowing it to run perfectly resistance free. Previously my cranks would always continue turning a few revolutions after stopping pedalling, but they now stay put!
Have to caveat the above 'fix' as applying to a bike with a 10sp cassette, unsure if would work equally well on different cassettes. Also, not sure how well the o-ring will handle the heat generated by the unit on longer sessions so may need to find a washer in due course.
Anyway, thought i'd share in case it might help others...
Mine doesn't have this problem (yet?), but I'm struggling to visualize what you've done?
FWIW mine is a very tight fit, as if the 'axle' is slightly wider than 130mm, all my wheels just drop into the frame whereas the trainer needs a fairly persuasive tap on the saddle to seat it. Post up some pics and I'll take mine apart to see if there's anything different, maybe there's an extra washer in mine from the factory.
@thisisnotaspoon. I think their QC is off on these trainers. My 130mm OLD road bike slots straight in. BTW you do know the QR adaptor on the non-drive side is reversible (130mm/135mm) depending which side you insert into the trainer?
To better explain what I did to mine:
a) remove qr skewer
b) unscrew and remove qr adapter A, from drive side. This serves as an end cap and attaches the freehub body to the shaft.
c) slide free hub body off the shaft (i erroneously called that the axle). No need to remove cassette.
d) this exposes a sleeve around the shaft where it fixes to the trainer. This sleeve looks to be removeable in this GCN video using a Wahoo trainer - look at the vid 3 mins 35 secs in -
- but appears fixed to the shaft on my Pinnacle HC.
e) slip a thin o-ring down the shaft and snug it up against the fixed collar/sleeve. Effectively adds a couple of mm to the sleeve.
f) slip the freehub body back on (should clear the o ring if thin enough)
g) screw the end cap (adaptor A) back on to the threaded shaft. On mine, the extra 1-2mm of tye o ring means it can now be cinched up to remove any play in the freehub body/cassette, without binding.
Ive just done a quick Zwift ride to test it and it works great now! PINNACLE App also connected via my Pixel phone and allowed me to do a spindown calibration...think others had said that wasnt working.