Pinnacle Arkose Three (jameso to the forum please)

I do, the one that Evans sold me is 146.5 in length. I can't seem to find one on the website with a 125mm length.

Hi James, just popped you some mail about replacement freehub body on an arkose 4 2015. Could you help at all? Thanks!

td, seems Evans don't stock them, sorry. Just checked.

cgr, just replied, will look them up.

What is the rear axle on the arkose? I'm thinking of getting one as a trailer puller, just found out an x12 axle conversion to make my mtb compatible with a Thule trailer is £60 😯

It's a QR on all models Richard.

No worries James, thanks for checking. Maybe they should get some stock in. I've just managed to find one that will deliver tomorrow which is when I need it for.

I love the arkose, this is my second one now but the Evans team (not all of them I know) just don't seem to have product knowledge when it comes to things like this, which could put future purchases of the brand at risk, which is a shame especially after the hard work your putting in.

TD, agreed on the axle, not sure why it's not listed. Will point it out or just get axles on the next drop, will raise the rrp a bit though.
Product knowledge is a tricky one. A lot to keep up with to be fair. You'd see me looking blank if asked about Scott e mtbs or zwift compatibility trainers : ) On Pinnacle or Hoy product I'd hope we're easily found for anything not answerable on the spot.

Jameso & others- whats the largest tyres I can fit with some mud clearance?

40C but that can get close up front with claggy mud.

Big thanks to Jameso, Pinnacle Bikes and Evans Gateshead for great customer service and support with my Arkose recently.

Looking forward to riding again this weekend.

Quick request if anyone can help.

Picked up a 2015 Arkose 2 back in April 2016. I've only put about 150 miles on it since.

When it went in for its 6 week service (after about 8 weeks due to crap weather and not being able to get out on it), they had to bleed the front brake as it was catching on the rotor.

Since then (again I've only been out a handful of times because of a foot injury so I've had to stick to my MTB), I've noticed that when I use the rear brake, there's a horrendous shudder through the frame. It had been there before, but I'd put it down to the Kryptonite lock mount - however after a 20 miler without the lock, it's clearly something else.

It's worse when you use the front brake at the same time. It's quite easy to lock and skid the rear wheel so there's obviously enough bite there, but the judder is putting me off riding the bike.

It's a shame because I stuck some cheap M353 hydraulics on my MTB and TBH they're 10 times better then the brakes on this Arkose - I'd gone for the Arkose because I wanted hydraulics on a roadie/CX type bike.

Rang the Gateshead store and they advised to bring it in, but am I likely to be charged for it being looked at, given that it's past it's 6 week check period, or do they come with some sort of warranty?

Any pointers/help gratefully received.

Hard to diagnose remotely but the shop wouldn't charge for simply having an initial look, beyond that it'll depend on what the assesment is. Possibly some misalignment. Possibly contaminated pads or rotors, oil residue will make them howl and lose bite but other contaminants can have other effects. If there's no noise from the brake only a vibration of sorts I'd start by looking at alignment and mounting in that area, checking over the hub, rotor and disc fixings.

Jameso - thank you for the reply. I'll report back with how it goes.

There's not a squeal and the only noise is the rumble/judder, the bike only gets used in the dry (the MTB is for rubbish weather duty). I've got some disk brake cleaner spray which I tried a few weeks ago but hasn't made a difference - the brakes were bedded in properly as well. I wondered if it was something to do with the hub or spokes but that's well beyond my technical ability - I fitted a 1x10 drivetrain and the shimano brakes to my MTB but that's the max of my skills.

The QR is done up tight and the wheel seems to run freely without catching on the brake - I'm assuming the ticking is just the design of the hub?

Have put an order in for a Pinnacle balance bike for the bairn (in matching lime green of course) so I'm desperate for mine to be tip-top.

@bossworld - developed an almost identical issue on my hardtail recently, couldn't sort it myself, put it in lbs and they spent 2 weeks on it - tried torching existing rotor + pads, new rotor, new pads, checking hub etc. Eventually issue was strangely resolved by greasing caliper mounting bolts - you could give that a try.

Cheers Andy will bear it in mind - I'm loathe to do too much to it myself seeing as it's nearly new but will see what Evans Gateshead come back with.

Could be something about the rotor causing the pads to move, does the frequency of the rumble/judder change with speed, ie get less as you slow down? I've got a few brakes to run smoother by using a plain round rotor, so may be worth trying a different rear wheel with the same 160mm size shimano-compatible rotor to see if it changes anything? A mis-aligned caliper or frame mount may cause something similar if the pads + pistons aren't aligned flat enough to the rotor.

It's markedly worse when you've got the brake lever half pulled under normal braking. If you slam on, the rear will skid and doesn't really rumble.

Was able to simulate it while moving the bike around the garden without my weight on it by half pulling on the lever. Similarly, if you're on the bike stationery, put the rear brake say 75% on, when you push your weight forward, you get a clunk clunk clunk as the pads try to prevent the disc moving. I think it's at that stage - wondering if possibly a sticky piston as you'd get on a car or as you say, not perfectly straight?

Haven't got spares to be playing with (MTB is 26") so was hopeful the shop can do that sort of thing. As above will report back, grateful for the advice and pointers. The front doesn't exhibit the same issue, albeit the front brake isn't anywhere near as sharp (i think this is normal for bikes)?

@bossworld anther quick at home check would be that the caliper bolts are all tight on the rear caliper.

I had a similar sounding issue on my MTB when i built the front of it back up late on Friday night after receiving the fork back from service. Bashed it all together and didn't fully tighten the caliper bolts as the front wheel was coming of again, front brake felt horrific down the first decent on the Saturday morning.

If anyone fancies an Arkos 3 '14 with 105 groupset in 54cm, please drop an email to cokie.stw@gmail.com

Does sound like a mis-alignment of pad and rotor to me but I'd get the shop to have a look and just explain what you've said here, shouldn't be hard to resolve.

Took it in today, they were very helpful. Had a call a couple of hours later to say it was the pads were glazed, although having had a quick go tonight, there's a lot more travel in the rear lever now so I'm guessing they've bled it slightly as well (fine by me).

My 2 year old had her heart set on the 14" Pinnacle and wouldn't leave it alone in the store but we've got the 12" balance bike on order so hopefully come the weekend she'll be able to match me in lime green.

Cheers folks.

I've just had a second incident where I've found my rear wheel loose at the end of a ride. By loose I mean the rear wheel wobbles slightly side to side. I was mentally blaming the external cam QR but I just read about the hanger recall, could that be the cause? I have a 2015 Arkose 4 with internal routing and the hanger says "BGRD-4"

Anyone got the singlespeed Arkose? Thinking that looks a super CTW buy; quite fancy a nice simple bike to blast round the lanes in the winter 🙂

Would it be any good for touring? Fancy cycling through France next year and to do it on a singlespeed has appeal....!!

I know it's not Arkose specific but I'll ask here anyway because it's what came fitted to mine.

My bottom bracket has given up the ghost, it's a FSA Mega Exo one. Do I have to but a FSA one back in or can I use the SLX one I have as a spare or maybe even the Hope one I have floating about? I've never dealt with FSA stuff before so it's a it of mystery to me.

FSA Mega Exo cranks have a smaller axle size than Shimano, so you'll need either another FSA BB or to change the cranks as well.

Looking to fit a set of SKS Chromoplastics to my Arkose SS for winter.

Can anyone advise if the 45mm or wider 50mm guards will fit? I'd like to keep using the 40C WTB Nano Tyre too.

Cheers!

50 imo

I've got p45, and 40mm vittoria hyper tyres only *just* fit under.

Just about to fit P45s and vittoria hyper 35mm's and hoping they'll play nicely together. As above, I reckon you'll need 50's if you want to keep the 40mm nano's on.

Glad this thread popped up again - I got one (an XL 4) on BTW when they dropped in price in August. Awesome bike. Manages well on the roads with 28mm tyres, and the stock small block 8's are fine off road (although I might well try some of the larger nano's).

Here's a pick on day 2 of a recent Peaks bikepacking trip on which it performed flawlessly;

[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yI7FvJMXJLK5THtPIX2adBQ9zuZmg2KIh9LEHqF_vmcWOcBd3pFteHDiLoep4A7TZ-UPWCMIhBhgpA=w1366-h768-rw-no [/img]

Bugger! Got impatient and ordered 45s.

Had a measure and thought 50mm might be pushing it on the front!

Fingers crossed!!

So....Nano 40C and P45's do fit,but its tighter than tight!

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Hi all,

Few months ago got an Arkose three 2016 model and its became my commuting machine. Picked up some p45 chromoplastic guards and while I've got the back one fitted okay the front bolt isn't long enough to do through the fork.

Any recommendations for bolt size to use? I'm a bit rubbish with this stuff.

Long shot but I don't suppose anyone knows what shade the paint is on a 2015 Arkose 1? It's a metallic silvery colour and after an unshceduled lie down in the road I need some touch up paint.

Thanks

It's a Taiwan-produced paint code sorry so available matches are never exact but car or motorbike touch-up paints can get pretty close.

Somi found the thread to ask peoples opinions of the 2015 SS pictured up there. Ive decided SSCX is a good training / difference to my collection and ive found one on offer. Is a 2015 bike worth £600?

I might enter the odd CX race more for training / sharpening for results, it is capable?

Its competing with a 699 carbon forked TCX SLR with 105 - £100 for the drive train seems a bargain but, albeit with mechanical disks

shortbread - Member
Hi all,
Few months ago got an Arkose three 2016 model and its became my commuting machine. Picked up some p45 chromoplastic guards and while I've got the back one fitted okay the front bolt isn't long enough to do through the fork.
Any recommendations for bolt size to use? I'm a bit rubbish with this stuff.

Had just this issue the other day. Go to Robert Dyas or similar and get a 70mm M5 bolt (or pack of 5, however they come), then cut it down to size. Done. Cheap and easy, no waiting for post.

EDIT - any DIY-ish store will do

Had just this issue the other day. Go to Robert Dyas or similar and get a 70mm M5 bolt (or pack of 5, however they come), then cut it down to size. Done. Cheap and easy, no waiting for post.

EDIT - any DIY-ish store will do

I bought a length of stainless M5 studding, and a pack of stainless dome nuts - cut a piece of studding the right length and finish off with a nut on either end. looks pretty neat.

All items available from either Toolstation or Screwfix - I can't remember which.

Good idea...though probably cheaper and easier to just buy the bolt though, as you can use the nuts that come with the mudgaurds, one cut and you're done.

Somi found the thread to ask peoples opinions of the 2015 SS pictured up there. Ive decided SSCX is a good training / difference to my collection and ive found one on offer. Is a 2015 bike worth £600?

I might enter the odd CX race more for training / sharpening for results, it is capable?

Its competing with a 699 carbon forked TCX SLR with 105 - £100 for the drive train seems a bargain but, albeit with mechanical disks

I'm sure the bike is very capable, but it does sound like quite a lot. The new bikes will be 2017 spec, so that's 2 years old. How much were they going for? My Arkose 2 (1x10, hydro brakes) was £750 (down from £850) in early 2015, I'd guess it would be less than £600 now...

Good idea...though probably cheaper and easier to just buy the bolt though, as you can use the nuts that come with the mudgaurds, one cut and you're done.

Agreed - I'd actually bought the studding for another job (fitting the same mudguards on my previous bike - which needed a stand-off to clear the brake calliper) so just used what I had.

This is a question @ Jameso.
Will the recently released 2017 model arkose be released as frameset only?
Could you guess when that might be?

I've got a 2013 arkose frameset unbulit but I'm haveing cold sweats about not having enough clearance for 40c tyres.

ps. love this thread.

While we're at it Jameso - what's the plan for 2017 Iroko?

Anyone know if you can squeeze 50mm tyres in? 2016 Arkose 4.

I have a 2015 Arkose 4, not sure if the 15/16 frames are the same?
WTB Nano 40C fit in the back, but, there's not much mud clearance and the front mech rubs when you get out the saddle.

I'm sticking to 35 on the back and 40 up front.

I've got a 2016 Arkose 3, front mech (105 fd5800) is rubbing against the 40c nano at the rear when in the big ring.

Is there another compatible front mech without such a long arm, or more clearance?

Anyone know if you can squeeze 50mm tyres in? 2016 Arkose 4

No

Sorry, missed a couple of posts on here over recent weeks.

thv3 - it will work out if the FD is set up correctly and the wheel's all aligned ok. Might be worth checking the FD cable anchor point or 'Hi' stop (set screw) position?
The 2017 frame is a bit longer in the CS to account for a lowered BB and 1/2 degree off the seat angle and create a bit more space here.

Matt - 66 static HA with 120mm fork, same reach as 2016 spec, improved dropper routing and side-swing FD route option. Due up on the site very soon, will get a pic posted up.

lifecycl3 - I'll check in the week, not sure of ETA offhand sorry. Will be available though. 40C does fit the 2016 or earlier frames but it's close, the new frame was in part to open up clearance around the FD and at the fork, as well as add flat mounts for the brake. We've had 650B x 2.1s in there - dry clearances at the chainstay rather than mud-room but it works and tbh real MTB tyres on a bike like this are a bit like DMs on a dancer imo. It's fully road-plus-able anyway. 650 + Arkose :

View this post on Instagram

Jameso - thanks for the tip, managed to get it working with some adjustment. It's strange that the 5800 fd mech arm is so long, 5700 etc was far shorter with more clearance.

Hmmm, road plus looks interesting

Thanks for replying Jameso. I'm holding my breath.

lifecycl3 - Hope you're not too blue in the face by now! Looks like early summer for framesets sorry - all diverted to full bike production priority for the first 2 runs.

Thanks for letting me know. Might have to buy a whole one then.

@jameso or anyone else. Just come across the 2017 Arkose 3 and it looks ideal for my commute. However I'm a lanky 6'5". Anyone got the 2017 geometry chart or real life experience of being this big on an XL?
Many thanks

Sorry to come back to this (other posts on the previous page). Haven't been on my 2015 Arkose 2 since September, which was roughly a couple of months after I reported rear braking issues.

Went out for a short 12 miler on Saturday as the weather is improving, with the WTB 40c tyres back on. The rear brake rumble/shudder is back with a vengeance.

When I took it in the last time, they said the pads were badly glazed and sanded them down. I think this made it better albeit not fully solved. I've tried realigning the caliper a couple of times but it hasn't helped.

Just wondering what to do next. The bike is less than a year old but I don't know if this sort of thing would still be under warranty. I was thinking of trying to swap the front and rear pads to see if that makes a difference first of all, as the front doesn't vibrate at all. My LBS (about half the distance to Gateshead) is offering half price servicing this month, but other than the rear brake, everything is running beautifully so that seems overkill.

^ Have you tried a round non-wavy rotor? ie an older Shimano or Avid G2.

If that makes no difference try sighting up the slot with a light behind, so you can see the gap between pad and rotor. Best to do this with fresh pads in rather than some that have worn in to match the rotor. Check how parallel the pads + rotor are. If the pads/caliper is too far off the rotor plane it can cause vibration, particularly with any wavy rotors. Facing the mount will fix it.

@fatmax, there's a geometry chart on the bike page of the Evans site and it should be easy enough to get one in to try, plus there's a 30 day right-bike guarantee.

Incapable of putting photos on here but just wanted to say that I bought an Arkose about a month ago (2016 ex demo) for a bargain price from evans.

It's incredible. On the road I'm as quick as my old road bike, which I think is partly new bike enthusiasm but also because I'm more confident with the disc brakes and also because hitting pot holes unexpectedly (my riding is mostly country lanes and at night due to family and work commitments) don't cause you to career off in the same way as it did on the road bike. I've taken it on a few bridleways as well and it's coped surprisingly well. Tyres grip quite well and are predictable when you reach the limits.

My first bike of this type so can't compare but can thoroughly recommend.

Matt - 66 static HA with 120mm fork, same reach as 2016 spec, improved dropper routing and side-swing FD route option.

@jameso - thanks, managed to find it when on the laptop and not my phone. Reckon I might just squeeze my lanky frame on an XL. And the Arkrose 3 looks great. Thanks. And fair play to answering so many queries, nice one.

^ Yes, sorry about that. It's getting changed, not sure when though. I guess when the site design prioritised info and space they didn't think geometry charts were so important. I disagree ..
Try one out, I think it may be a bit small but with a flipped-up stem and a 400mm post, maybe. It's relatively long in the reach anyway.

Bit of a long shot, but does anyone have a large Arkose with a short stem in Southampton, that I could try for size? It would help enormously, saving me a trip to Reading by public transport.

I recall "The Dude" on here advertising a kharki Singlespeed last year, using photos taken on the Northam Bridge boardwalks, but I stupidly never got in touch.

Getting increasingly interested in the Arkose X, the only slight downer is that the fork now has an alloy steerer, unlike the Arkose models from a year or so ago.

^ Have you tried a round non-wavy rotor? ie an older Shimano or Avid G2.

If that makes no difference try sighting up the slot with a light behind, so you can see the gap between pad and rotor. Best to do this with fresh pads in rather than some that have worn in to match the rotor. Check how parallel the pads + rotor are. If the pads/caliper is too far off the rotor plane it can cause vibration, particularly with any wavy rotors. Facing the mount will fix it.

Took the pads out on the front and back (see a little further down). Ensured all bolts tightened up, also re-centred the rear caliper one more time.

Was still happening.

Went round with a spoke key (not with the aim of adjusting - I'm nowhere near that skilled) but just to see if anything was loose. As it turns out, it seems I had a very loose spoke on the back. One (and only one) was effectively under no tension.

Done it up, and all seems fine now. A little bit of brake squeal from the rear but I have just sanded down the rotors and pads so we'll see how that settles down. Put a dab of Ceratec brake grease on the back of the pads (where the piston makes contact) just to be on the safe side.

Did look reasonably parallel - for what it's worth, this was the condition of the pads

Looks as though it wasn't engaging toward one edge of the pads, so hopefully a sand down/level off might help slightly.

Thanks again for your help.

Saw another Arokse 2 2015 round Whitley Bay last week too! 🙂

Hi, just wondering if anyone knows what the biggest tyre I can fit though an arkose frame & forks is? It's the 2014 version (I think) - I think they changed the fork design from 2015 if that makes a difference?

Considering building it up for some adventure cycling / gravel / montercross stuff and wondering what the biggest I can get away with is.

Also any tyre recommendations for that kind of stuff would be very welcome!

ta!

@el_boufador

Hi,
my 2014 frame can easily take a 42C tyre (19mm inner width rim). The clearance of my 2016 frame looks the same.
I use a PlanetX fork on the first one so can't tell how the clearance of the old fork version looked like.

My older Arkose with a recently fitted flatbar:

[img] [/img]

Nice one, thanks

I'm looking at getting a new bike on C2W, via Evans, and top choices are the 2017 Arkose 2 (Tiagra) and Arkose X (1x10, TRP hydros). I think the X is probably favourite for the riding I'm likely to use it for (country lanes, bridleways / tame trails and rides with family) as it looks a bit more off-road orientated.

Does anyone (Jameso?) know whether you can fit 650b wheels - I know it has clearance for up to 45mm tyres, but presumably that's measured on 700c wheels?

Ben - 650B, yes, up to 50mm or so with reasonable clearance. This wasn't great clearance but they are WTB Nineline tyres -

/p>

Horizons fit with loads of room.

Great, thanks James - think I'll be purchasing shortly!

Good stuff. WTB Byway 47s also fit well .. I can mention those now that the press release has gone out. Brilliant tyres.

And suddenly the C2W value option looks like getting a second set of wheels and tyres at some point in the near future...!

Cheers again.

Looking for a definitive answer from Jameso if poss. I've got a 2015/16 Arkose singlespeed (absolutely love it) and plan to convert to 1x11 having got a SRAM s500 11sp bar end shifter, just waiting for a 1x Apex RD to come into stock. Anyway, had also thought about putting some Hunt Adventure disc 650b wheels on it, after seeing the WTB Byway tyres were coming out. However, the Instagram link a few posts above this suggests that combo would only work on the 2017 frames due to improved clearances (mines the original olive camo flouro paint splash frame). Is this the case? Cheers....

Byways fit the 2016 and earlier frames but the fork was narrower - it'll fit but with a bit less clearance than the rear. I have some Byways here so I could check next week, maybe. The Hunt rims aren't that wide though so that will help, my 650B road wheels are on WTB I25s and the tyres measure 47mm on those.

Ere Jameso, can you persuade Evans to stock some i25 based wheelsets or Hunts 650?
I've a 2015 frame and I was hopeful that given the WTB horizon site claims that on a 650b rim it would be the same diameter as a 700c 30mm road plus would be a simple drop in. but finding wheelsets seemed a bit more difficult that I hoped.

Riddoch, we have Hope wheelsets, Shimano, Mavic and other 650B MTB options, basically same thing but tbh I'd just get something like the I25s or I23s handbuilt onto the right hubs.

The main thing I like about the WTB KOMs is they're foolproof for tubeless set up and Horizons and Byways are all I need tyre-wise on a 650B all-roader. 23-25mm rims match those tyres well and TCS is a great system - I've seated their tyre+rim combos dry with a hand pump. Unfortunately Evans doesn't range any of this - at least you could see this as a geniune recommendation!

Luv2ride:

How have you got on with the SS version?

Jameso, if you could check the 2016 ss frame with the WTB Byways that'd be great.

Mikertroid, my SS Arkose is great, really enjoy it. I currently use some Kinesis CXD disc wheels with a Velosolo spacer kit running as single speed , so a bit lighter than the stock Alex rims. Also converted to tubeless with TCS Nano's. I've also got a number of different rear cogs (16t and 18t Groove Armadas from PX, seem to be direct copies of the Andel cogs it came with). Put a Salsa Cowbell bar on with a wider flare, and a 39t front chainring (just because it was cheap and anodized red!) and everything else is stock. Now rocking a camo Blackburn outpost frame bag which carries my CamelBak, tools, etc.
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Could be looking at my next CTW bike there....

^also meant to say, the Hylex brakes are very good indeed 🙂

Jameso: another Q, this timevre: the EBB on my SS. My local Evans (who supplied the bike) were unable to advise on the appropriate torque setting for the BB shell bolts. I've been setting them at 10nm but notice the insert can move a little during a ride. Any further info on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Jameso, I had a quick look at the MTB 650b, I kind of assumed they'd be a bit wider, thinking about it as the i25 is 25mm that's unlikely. When I filtered on QR and 650 only mavics and shimano wheels showed up so may not be all.

My original plan was some 700c hope 20five to go tubeless but road plus has turned my head 🙂

Ahh, the hopes must labelled as 15mm rather than QR, the tech enduro looks like it might be the Evans available, in stock answer.
23mm internal diameter, tubeless compatible, seems to tick the boxes.

When I filtered on

@luv2ride - 10Nm is about right but you can go a bit higher if needed, 13-14Nm isn't an issue. Check the bolts are greased so you're getting proper clamping at the torque setting. If it's moving it could need a clean-out or some carbon paste. Any ongoing issues let me/Evans know as it should be solid, has been a good system ime.