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@eduea
Just got home and checked the card, and yes it has the frame number on there, which I hadn’t noticed before. Thanks, you saved me a lot of time and effort.
Once again, asking on STW pays off.
I finally made a frame bag for my Arkose and wanted it to be like the Oveja Negra 1/2 Pack with a small pocket on the left side. Propably need some lower sitting bottle cages....
Slightly OT, but I did my first long ride on my Pinnacle Dolomite, which is basically a more road focused version of the Arkrose this weekend, (108 mile Tour of Flanders) and it was supremely comfortable. No aches and pains to speak of after being out most of the day, handled the cobbles without fuss (28mm tyres). Thanks Jameso, it's bloody ace.
Now, as you were....
Went into Evans a few weeks back as I was passing, on the off chance they might have some 2019 bikes in store. No luck, but decided to order a D3 anyway as I couldn't wait! Popped in again on Saturday and they had the D1 and D3 on the shop floor. I really want the spec of the D3 but oh man the colour of the D1 is gurt lush! I think that is the best paint job I've seen on a bike for years - it goes from a greeny-blue to purple depending on the light. Anyhoo, the purple D3 is nice too. Hurry up Evans and deliver my bike cos I can't wait much longer 🙂
I have the Arkose 4 2018 with Rival 1x
I'm looking at a new cassette and eyeing up the Sunrace MX8
1) do I need to get the XD driver version
2) will an 11-40 work as a straight swap out from current SRAM 11-42?
I do really like the 1x but have always had issues with the smallest gears 36 and 42 and have never been able to get the chain to stay on 42, despite numerous tweaks and tunes. My LBS, after the latest attempt, thinks it may be the derailleur, which has suffered a few dings. Am taking the plunge and getting a new derailleur but while I'm at it thinking 11-40 may suit me. That last jump 36-42 is huge, if I can have a 40t that actually works, with 42t on the front, I'd be loving it
I had issues with the indexing and shifting when I got my arkose 4, turned out whoever built it had forgotten to put the spacer on behind the cassette (the sram 11-42 is the width of a 10 speed road cassette). Added that and reindexed & it’s shifted perfectly ever since. Worth checking the derailleur hanger isn’t bent...the rival RD is pretty chunky, would be surprised if it can be damaged without bending the hanger.
The MX8 looks like it fits on a normal shimano freehub, no xd needed.
@charliem
Thanks for the advice. Could it really be a missing spacer? I shall check for that
Derailleur hanger is new, the old one snapped after I crashed into a taxi (he wasn't looking as he pulled a U-turn)! That's when the derailleur took a ding.
Hi, i have a 18' arkose 3 frame. Id like to ask if anyone knows of a replacement fork that have mid length rack mounts for a porteur rack? TIA
Having paid a final payment on my road disc bike I'm now looking at upgrading my 2015 Arkose single speed/1x11 conversion. 2019 Arkose X is one of the favoured contenders. Main reason for changing is getting the ability to run 650b wheels. How wide can I go on the new Arkose frame, and what other improvemments will I see? Cheers...
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Hey Jameso, if you're still calling in to this thread from time to time..in your opinion what real improvements would I see between the 2019 Arkose X and my 2015 Arkose SS 1x11 conversion (built with Sram S500 shifter and 1x Apex chainring and RD)? I do love my 2015 Arkose (with 38mm Tubeless Gravel Kings), but keen to scratch my 650b itch as some of my offroad routes have big gravel and rocks which could with a bit more cushion....think you've warned me off going 650b on my 2015 rig due to 2015 fork clearance and reduced B&B height in the past...cheers
Fed up of my creaky but functional original drivetrain on my 2017 arkose 2. It didn't take long with a gear calculator + wiggle to determine that replacing with another sub-compact one would be more expensive and yield practically identical gear range compared to going with a compact and a larger cassette so I'm going with the compact option.
Will be glad to say goodbye to the FSA stuff that turned into a creaky mess every other month.
@reformedfatty
Something is creaking on my 2018 Arkose, but I cannot figure out what it is. It happens when I’m in the smaller chainring, and seems loudest when I’m in the middle gears.
Did you manage to work out where your creak was coming from?
Luv2rides, sorry, missed your posts til now. The new Arkose vs 2015.. the new one is a bit lighter, the rear / seat cluster area has a bit more give, the dropout is convertable and if I do say myself I think we have the neatest, easiest cable route options for cables or Di2. No redundant bosses if using Di2. Also internal dynamo route for both front and rear lights and one set of removable guard mounts, one other fixed mount ideal for a rack.
650b clearance is another change, no more clearance than 2017-18 frameset but more than your 2015, mainly up front. 700x45 is arguably as good and there's still more tyre range for 700s but for mixed riding I'm a fan of 650b, especially if riding loaded up.
Easily, not sure if it's the same creak or indeed hubs but my pinnacle ramin had a creak in certain and it turned out to be a loose bit in the hub I tightened up all the axle components and it stopped it. Took ages to track it down though
Oh and I was In Evans the other day and the new arkose d1 looked lovely a right bargain, in there was a non disc lithium which was lovely too greyish and orange reminded me of an old school marin pine mountain
Hey guys, are any of you Arkose owners 5'11", and if so are you on a medium or a large Arkose?
The website suggests large, but I'm right on the cusp so just wondering. I'm ordering a D1 (that colour!) but my local Evans didn't have any in stock for me to sit on and try.
I'm 5'8" and I chose a small. Like you I was on the cusp - I could have ridden the medium. I chose the small as the standover height seemed better, and having ridden it for 6 months I think I did the right thing.
I know that wasn't really what you asked, but I hope it helps a little.
Thank you Easily, that's what I suspect I need to do as well, stand over height is important for me commuting through stop start traffic, just looking for some confirmation one way or another.
Thanks for the suggestion. I looked at the hubs and they seem to be ok.
I'm guessing it's the bottom bracket or the cheap pedals I put on
No worries mate hopefully you'll track it down
Hey guys, are any of you Arkose owners 5’11”, and if so are you on a medium or a large Arkose?
I'm 5'9" and ride a medium, it feels spot on to me. If you're on the cusp you could always fit a longer stem.
Bikeytom
Just tell Evans you want to test ride a bike in a certain size. They'll then get the correct bike in stock. I paid £50 deposit but that is refunded when you turn up and ride it. They even flipped the stem for me to see how that was
I'm a shade over 5' 10" and test rode both medium and large. The large felt just a touch too big for me so I ended up on a medium with a 90mm stem. Feels spot on.
Thanks for the reply Jameso. Is the geometry similar berween the 2015 and 2019 frames? Looking at online geo charts the '15 had 545mm eff top tube, and the '19 quoted as being 562mm? Unfortunately my local Evans doesn't seem to have a medium Arkose in stock, and was going to try for size.
My medium 2015 with the Hylex hoods is a perfect fit...
Luv2ride not sure on the new sizing but when I had a bike that fitted with shimano hoods and swapped to hylex I needed a shorter stem as it changed where I held them due to the design
Looking at online geo charts the ’15 had 545mm eff top tube, and the ’19 quoted as being 562mm?
Something not right there. 555mm for the men's M in 2015. 2019 is 562mm as the seat angle is a touch slacker now - ie the 2015 to 2019 reach hasn't changed. Was always designed a tad longer to be used with a 10-20mm shorter stem.
Front end geo had a minor tweak for the new frame, simply to keep handling as intended with ever-increasing 700c tyre sizes (40-45mm the norm vs 32-40mm) and to get a better turn-in feel from a wider 650B wheel also.
when I had a bike that fitted with shimano hoods and swapped to hylex I needed a shorter stem as it changed where I held them due to the design
The Hylex hoods are long .. but I just see that as more range if needed and kept the stem the same to keep the drops in the same place, otherwise it's cramped when on longer road sections in the drops. Quite like that long hood design for adding reach on the tops.
I found the hoods much more comfortable just a bit far away , shorter stem was always a compromise a bar with less forward reach and same stem would have been better tbh
^Thanks for the replies. JAMESO, I must have got myself confused over the 2015 ETT measurement, been looking at too many geo charts this week trying to make up my mind! Didn't the 2015 bike with Hylex brakes have a particularly short reach bar to also offset the longer Hylex hoods? I eventually changed the bars out for Cowbells for a touch more flare and didn't notice any issues, and I really like the Hylex hood shape. Changed stem to a TransX elastomer type but stuck to 80mm. Weirdly my road bike has r685 hydraulic brifters, which i think also have a longer than typical reach, but sometimes feel a little too stretched out on that (545mm ETT plus 110mm stem). Bike geometry often feels something of a dark art to me...
562mm ETT did seem long for the 2019 medium frame, but its reassuring to hear the reach hasnt really changed. Getting closer to pulling the trigger I think...
Didn’t the 2015 bike with Hylex brakes have a particularly short reach bar to also offset the longer Hylex hoods?
They've always used a bar with ~70-75mm reach, I don't see the need to set the bar based on the hoods shape, only the bar shape - I use short-hood SRAM S500 brake lever only jobs on one bike, same bar / stem though. I can see why some would change the stem though, esp. if riding on the hoods most of the time.
Arkoses always were a bit longer in the frame than many similar bikes but with the stem and bar spec it all balances out. 10mm on top tube or reach raises a question whereas bar reaches/shapes can vary more than that.
Bikeytom, I’m 5ft 11 and ride a large Arkose. It feels very comfortable to me.
EDIT: just noticed the geo has possibly changed from my 2015 bike, so not sure if still relevant
EDIT: just noticed the geo has possibly changed from my 2015 bike, so not sure if still relevant
Nope : ) TT length 7mm different but Reach basically the same
=
jameso
Subscriber
..555mm for the men’s M in 2015. 2019 is 562mm as the seat angle is a touch slacker now – ie the 2015 to 2019 reach hasn’t changed. Was always designed a tad longer to be used with a 10-20mm shorter stem.
Anyone got any experience of the R1 or R2 please? Looking at one for commuting, road rides and delamere forest trail type rides. Looked at the D2 but looks too close to my Cotic hardtail. Bit concerned about the cable brakes on the R1.
^ I was really impressed by those brakes. Flat mount TRPs with Shimano levers match well. Pop some Shimano resin pads in and adjust well and tbh they're so close to hydraulics in power and modulation, just not the same smooth fluidity in the lever pull.
Would they be easily upgraded to hydro in the future?
Easy yes, a bit pricey though as you'd need new STIs. FWIW I have Spyres on the bike I ride the most, hydros are nice but I don't feel I'm missing any performance over the Spyres. Good cables -Arkoses use Jagwire compressionless- good pads and alignment makes a big difference, most complaints about cable discs like this I suspect are down to that more than the brake caliper itself. They're a bit more sensitive to set-up and need adjusting more often, that's all.
Sounds good Jameso. Pretty tempted by the R1 for my style of riding. If I will be happy with the brakes I will go for it I think. Just looking at tyre size now as the stock ones you get are very road biased I think. Need a set I can setup tubeless and use on forest trails etc.
use on forest trails etc
.. that's what the D1 is for : ) D = Dirt*, R = Road. Frameset is the same, just the spec varies a little.
*I know, Gravel is more SEO-compatible but ---- it, it's more dirt than gravel over here. And G-1 would probably be a TM issue.
If there's anyone Derby way not sure about sizing, I have a medium D3 you're welcome to swing a leg over.
(Subject on a separate thread, but thought I'd offer up here as well)
Reading the description in Evans website it still describes the R1 as a gravel bike though. Suppose it's just less road focussed than a full on road bike. But those tyres would struggle with what I want to do i think.
Thanks to those who have given me advice, I finally picked up my new Arkose! I went for the D2 in the end, primarily because I wanted the hydraulic brakes, first ride out on it (still with the pedals it came with on it, just a quick blast round the Common) And I know I made the right choice, the brakes feel superb straight or if the box, in a different league to cable discs.
I'm looking forward to putting in a lot of miles on this bike!
Gratuitous new bike picture:
Hmm, forum doesn't like Google photos or I'm doing something wrong?
Anyone know what bearings I need for the 2017 Arkose Alfine front hub?
^ loose ones, not sure of the size offhand though sorry.
Jameso - whilst your here... what 650b rim width and tyre width did you fit in your old arkose (before the frame changed to fit massive tyres)
^ I didn't actually Jim, always used the v2 (2015) spec frame on 700x40, mainly the SS version and Arkose 2 1x/Hylex spec.
I did use the v1 Pyrolite as a 650B a lot, a more road-biased frame that suited the tyres available and what I used it for, that was 2014 so on Arch EXs with 38mm Panaracer col de la vie or 42mm PariMotos were the main options. They'd fit fine on older Arkoses although the Pyrolite had less BB drop and was still a bit low on 38-40mm tyres. PariMotos are really fast but a bit fragile, hence WTB road plus stuff working out well for what I was after.
I'm still wondering about clearance with my Arkose. I've got the 2017 version, so officially 50mm 650b or 45mm 700c.
Currently got Maxxis Refuse 50x650b on there and they fit fine with SKS Al 56mm guards. In fact up front there seems to be loads of clearance, at least 2cm clearance to the guard, and about 8mm each side.
I'd like to try a fast rolling mtb tyre though, like a Thunder Burt or Maxxis Aspen. But they all come in 2.1" amd I'm not sure adding 3mm width plus side knobs is feasible without rubbing holes in my forks. What have people gotten away with?
And I also wonder what's the biggest possible with 700c... Would a fast 50mm 700c tyre fit up front with reasonable (say 5mm) clearance? I'm thinking Soma Cazadero or Schwalbe 50mm G-one allround
I bought a second hand Arkose X 2018 last month from some guy who had literally ridden it 5 miles and then put it away (wet!!!!) for 6 months. I ummed and ahhed about it for ages cos it was XL and I'm 6ft but in the end bought it as it was a great deal.
Having now done 300 miles on it, no way would I go down a size - its perfect though I did swap the stem for an 80mm as 100mm is just not responsive enough on singletrack. Having a high stack suits these type of bikes.
The Hylex brakes are superb, much better than I expected and on a par with much more expensive hydro's (though I appreciate they don't have shifters) and off road I feel the bar end shifter is actually easier to use than brifters.
The WTB nano's are OK but very heavy so they will be going for something lighter but otherwise the spec seems spot on
Except the paint - thats pants that is.
Except the paint – thats pants that is.
I wondered if it had improved, and kept meaning to ask on this thread.
I bought a second hand 2015(?) Arkose 4 a few months ago - I love it, but the paint is terrible. I strapped some bikepacking bags to it to carry my camping gear between stations and the start of an audax (so about 15 miles total) and they've rubbed through the paint and primer to the bare metal.
I think the paint on my Blue 2016 has been great.
I strapped some bikepacking bags to it to carry my camping gear between stations and the start of an audax (so about 15 miles total) and they’ve rubbed through the paint and primer to the bare metal.
Some one on hear strapped an inner tune to their Bronson. That wore through to the carbon weave. My conclusion at the moment is that strapping to a frame isn't the way to go....
Likewise with my 2017 Arkose 3. Apart from a gouge on the top tube where I caught it on a wall, the Matt paint finish on mine is fantastic.
My Arkose 4, coming up to a year old, has lost paint where my left heel must brush past the chain stay (I use flats). Never had it before on a bike, but it’s done almost 2000 miles in all weathers and mostly off road, so fair enough. Rest of paintwork is fine though.
Was chatting to a friend today who has the exact same bike and he’s barely touched his mtb in months, since having the arkose. My mtb has had the winter off! To me that shows what a great bike The Arkose is 👍🏼
Some one on hear strapped an inner tune to their Bronson. That wore through to the carbon weave. My conclusion at the moment is that strapping to a frame isn’t the way to go….
That seems an odd conclusion to come to (except in the case of unprotected carbon). To take just one example, I'm pretty certain all 164 riders currently on the Tour Divide will have decided strapping stuff to their bikes for 2-4 weeks of riding the continental divide is the best way to transport it. Come to think of it, hasn't James O himself done the Tour Divide? Would be surprised if he used panniers.
I've covered thousands of off-road miles on my Genesis Longitude with bikepacking kit strapped to it, and apart from it going a bit matt where the straps sit, there's no paint damage.
Juts joined the club! 😆
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I’m currently trying to buy a road/gravel/adventure/cross bike and to be honest I’m struggling. Because I’ve only ever ridden MTBs I’m convinced I need some comfort and grip, hence the gravel type bike with larger tyres. But I’d also like to do some triathlons so want some narrower tyres.
I’ve just had a look at the arkose D2 but at 11.5kg it’s heaver than I’d hoped for, is much of that in the tyres? If I could lose 1.5kg with some less voluminous tyres for if/when I do a trim I think I could go for it.
I’ve just had a look at the arkose D2 but at 11.5kg it’s heaver than I’d hoped for, is much of that in the tyres? If I could lose 1.5kg with some less voluminous tyres for if/when I do a trim I think I could go for it.
11.5 sounds wrong - should be in the 10-10.5 range. Tyres are ~500g. Road 32s will be 300-320? Change the seatpost and saddle - lose 250g or so. The Arkose frameset is pretty competitive weight so it can be built up light.
Jameso - any plans to bring back the SS version (or any Alfine framesets in a medium 😉)
Slight tweak to my commute means it would be an ideal replacement for my Dolomite SS!
(Or - shameless plug if anyone has one for sale!)
Andy
I’ve covered thousands of off-road miles on my Genesis Longitude with bikepacking kit strapped to it, and apart from it going a bit matt where the straps sit, there’s no paint damage.
That's impressive. One weekend with a framepack on my old Genesis Equilibrium went through the paint. And that was a road ride with an absence of mud.
What are the shortest stems people are running on an Arkose? I'm running a 60mm and contemplating going down to 50mm.
I realise if it feels good I shouldn't give a crap what others are running, but just curious really...
Thanks Jameso, I think I saw the weight either on the Evans site or on a review.
I’m really struggling to choose a new bike as I want a roadie, but also like the ability to head off down gravel paths, and the spec is great on the D2.
Might see if Evans bristol have one so I can pop to see it and have a sit on it.
Pimpin' Evans will let you have a 20 minute go on the bike subject to some paper work
legometeorology
Member
What are the shortest stems people are running on an Arkose? I’m running a 60mm and contemplating going down to 50mm.I realise if it feels good I shouldn’t give a crap what others are running, but just curious really…
Dunno, yet, have been playing around with it a bit, had a 40mm and a 60mm kicking about to try them, too short for me, 60 almost there, and the 100mm that comes with the r2 just feels that we bit too long, so I'm gonny settle on an 80mm I think.
Incidentally, just for info, an SLX 11-40 cassette works with the new 105 rear mech no worries, just needed b screw adjustment and new chain obv. I need the lower gears for the time-being, I'll stick the 11-32 back on when I a bit fitter again! Well saying that, if I end up changing to bigger tyres with more tread in the future I might just keep it that way, see how the next month or 2 go! 😆
I want a roadie, but also like the ability to head off down gravel paths
Try one out, ideally try the 'D' series with one of the 'R' series back to back. I think you might like it. A lot of gravel bikes that are going quite slack now in an effort to stabilise a bike type that's just inherently never going to be that great on 'proper' off-road, the Arkose has a steering geo that's road-like on 28mm tyres and still stable enough on 45mms but not floppy-steering slack. On big tyres it's still quick to react, as that's what the bike type does naturally. Save the slackness for bikes with bigger bars and tyres, imo.
Damn! Help required please.
I have a 2017 arkose 2 that has developed a bit of a creak from what I thought was probably the bottom bracket so this morning I decided to remove the cranks and give the BB a clean and grease.
I watched a couple of YouTube videos first and it looked pretty straight forward with the self extracting bolt thing.
I began to undo the inner bolt which was pretty tight at first but then loosened off until it seated onto the outer ring and it tightened up again as the videos suggested it would . So without paying much attention to what was happening I used a bit of force and wound the bolt out thinking the crank was starting to release as expected,at this point it all went loose and I realised I had sheared the top of the outer ring off and left half the threads inside the crank! DOH!
So my question is - how can I remove the cranks now ? And if I have to scrap the crank to remove it (grinder etc) what would be a decent alternative without costing a small fortune?
It is currently 2x10 with 48 32 upfront and 32 rear cassette which I was ok with but open to other sensibly priced solutions.
Cheers.
sheared the top of the outer ring off and left half the threads inside the crank
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/files/index/download/id/6d5e0fadec036274cafa91ef946daba162/
^ exploded view - can you get part 8 as a spare, or use one from another self-extractor bolt and engage enough threads to get the crank off if you heat the crank arm / use WD40 etc? If not, heat and mallet or heat then penetrating lube and mallet. Beware of penetrating lube then heat : )
Cheers for the tips, I'll investigate further later, will just have to put up with the creak for the moment lol.
I just noticed that the 2020 version of the Arkose line has been released. Did anyone notice any difference between the 2019 line? I know there had been some concerns about chain jumping, due to the freehub/wobbly cassette. I wonder if this has been addressed in the 2020 version.
^ it's just a website management thing. They're the same bikes, same spec and rrp.
I need a new big ring on my 2018 Arkose 3.
Following a chain and cassette replacement by a (poor) LBS, the small ring is fine, but the big ring is jumping when I put torque through it - was told it was fine when collecting the bike. Is there anything cheaper than £110 for a Praxis Works that will bolt straight on?
Wee question on the R2. I should know this cause I just fixed my first puncture, but I stupidly didn't look under the rim tape! 😆
To go tubeless on there, are the rims sealed, or do I need to tape them up?
The Arkose frameset is pretty competitive weight so it can be built up light.
Does this mean the frameset is going to be available finally?
Does anyone (@jameso perhaps) know if there is chainstay clearance for a 40t oval ring to fit on the Arkose X samox 5bolt chainset which comes with a 38t round as standard?
If we knew the % ovalisation or max radius I could check it in CAD, but otherwise ... not sure sorry. I suspect it'll be very close, a 42T single ring is about the max and oval rings are often 7-10% ie 43-44T effective at the high point.
Its an absolute black CX oval
10.5-11.4% ; Timing of 112-113° after TDC (top dead center)
A 42T with 11.4% oval is effectively almost 47T. Your 38T ring has a radius of ~80mm. A 46T geared ring is 96.4mm, a 48T is 100.5mm, and SS rings are a tad taller tooth profile. Just under 47T will be ~98mm. So if your current ring could be about 18mm bigger radius...
Just serviced the freehub on my 2016 Arkose 4 as it's not disengaging as well as it should.
Spec sheet says it's a KT freehub, which I believe is made by Reynolds: https://reynoldscycling.com/products/reynolds-11-speed-freehub-body - if jameso could confirm, that would be handy 🙂
It was fairly clean inside, and not excessively worn, and it feels nice and sharp when engaging, so I'm not sure what the issue is.
I came across this advice from Reynolds on an issue with a seal causing drag, so I'm wondering if that's it:
On mine, the seal seemed pretty well attached to the hub shell (rather than the freehub body as per the note) but was straight enough so I didn't risk damaging it moving it.
Re-assembled with a bit of teflon grease and some chain lube on the pawls - seems worse if anything - perhaps the grease is too thick.
Anyone else had this kind of problem?
what do I need to convert stock rims and tyres to tubeless? Is it just tape, valves and sealant?
Cheers!
Getting a used Arkose 2018. Wanting to run a steel fork for front rack like a pizza rack or low riders. However, the only options mostly have 1 1/8 straight steerers. What do I need to get this to fit on the tapered headtube on the Arkose?
Getting a used Arkose 2018. Wanting to run a steel fork for front rack like a pizza rack or low riders. However, the only options mostly have 1 1/8 straight steerers. What do I need to get this to fit on the tapered headtube on the Arkose?
Ah! I came to ask almost the same question.
Running a straight steerer in a tapered headtube is the easy bit: you just need a Hope crown race reducer, which goes on the 1 1/8th steerer making it effectively 1.5" at the bottom.
The thing I can't work out is what crown race is needed. The forks I have on my 2017 Arkose have the crown race built into then, so putting a new set of forks on would require getting a crown race that suits. Anyone know what works?