Ok 👌 and thanks...
I have discovered that the wheelsize 700 is the same as a 29er so a small 29er mtb Tyre will fit the arkose ... Any one who hav tried it?
Is it worth the extra 450£ worth to buy the arkose 4 instead of the arkose x....coming from mtb I don't know anything about the specs on the bikes other then brands and so on....will at handlerbar like the salsa cow bell fit the arkose? Perhaps the hose will be to short but is there anything else I'm missing?? Cheers and happy trails
@sumsar
I think it’s worth going for tubeless ready which the 4 (poss the 3) gets you over the X...
I had 2 pinch flats in the first 2 miles of riding my 4, so I went tubeless (took minutes) and it’s much better.
I've just bought a Pinnacle Arkose 4
Has anyone had any luck with 650B wheels and 50mm mudguards?
If so, what combination of wheels and tyres have you used please?
Quick question - does the 2015 Arkose 4 have a qr or 12mm axle on the front wheel?
Thanks!
Ian
But the Alex rims on the arkose x is tubeless....
@sumsar81 thye Arkose 4 will have a bigger spread of gears at the back (useful if terrain is hilly - duh) and the gear shift is part of the brake lever, instead of being at the bottom of the drops. The gears are also 11 speed.
Jameso with apologies I need your guidance again.
As you said, those tyres were too thick for my Arkose 2 2015. Not a problem, I’ve moved the stock WTB nano 40c ones to the new rims, along with the existing brake rotors.
This is where I’m a little stuck, all with regards to cassette spacers. I moved the stock SRAM 1020 (presumably same as 1030) cassette across as well. Compared against the other wheels, it seemed to sit at the same height. Torqued it down to 40nm.
In the bike repair stand, in 9th gear it almost feels as if it’s not indexed properly. But it’s fine on a ride and there’s no free play in the cassette.
So long story short - are the stock alexrims/joytech hubs designed for 10 or 11 speed? Assuming they’re 10 as there was no spacer behind the cassette, if I pick up the Shimano HG81 from Evans, for the original wheels, do I need a 1mm spacer?
I’ve got an HG81 on my MTB that I converted from 3x8 to 1x10 and that didn’t need one.
thanks
edit: or does all this spacer stuff only apply to road wheels? 🙂
or does all this spacer stuff only apply to road wheels?
Correct, top marks.. 2015 bike has a 10s freehub, as far as I can remember w/o spec detail in front of me. Pretty sure tho as 11s was a way off the Arkose 2 level then. Fwiw I find even when swapping between 2 Shimano 10s cassettes of different ratios I often need to adjust the gear cable tension a little.
Fab thank you. I think I’ll just grab another SRAM cassette then to keep it consistent.
Anyone run a 2016 Arkose with 650b wheels and tyres , hows the clearance on the forks ??
After reading various threads about clearances etc, decided to treat myself to some Hunt 650b wheels and some Maxxis re fuse 2.00 tyres, all went well, up first time tubeless , rear has bags of room but front has probably 2-3mm max clearance either side 🙁 ... not happy as bit too close for comfort,.... time to change the tyres or the fork ??
Jameso ... do the later frames have more fork clearance ?
cheers
I'm running 650b with Re-Fuse 2.0" on a 2017 Arkose. Loads of room front and back.
@sumsar.... so they are!
@ mounse 701 , Must be the difference in years as mines a 2016, any chance of a pic of the fork clearance you have please ?
cheers
Stumpym4, yes, we specced a new fork for 2017. 5mm longer with loads more crown clearance. Rear stays are about the same. In 2016 there was some good stuff being developed for 650B so the changes were made then.
Cheers jameso, so my options are , new frame set , new forks and or different tyres ! ... I even spoke to stu from bearbones , as he has an older arkose and they fit his just fine ??
The older 2012-13 fork had a shade more clearance in the area lower down where a 650B tyre shoulder sits.
I'm still getting shifting issues (mainly in second gear which occurred from new) and have noticed the jockey wheels don't line up with the sprockets (The upper wheel sits outboard of a line between cassette sprocket and lower wheel)...
Am I right in thinking they should all line up, or is this a SRAM thing?
It's done 4 rides and hadn't had any impact to bend cage in at bottom. Shop time? 🙁
Can anyone comment on a decent set of comfy winter tyres, and some good fitting guards that they’ve used for the Arkrose?
im coming from Conti GP GT’s 25, looking at the same in 28 tbh...
I got a set of these:
https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Bontrager/NCS-1-700x45-Mudguards/6AKJ
which were a doddle to fit and seem to be fine, although I've only had them about a month so no idea if they actually work in the rain 🙂 They don't rattle and there's loads of space round the 33mm tyres I've got.
Also, I've been using specialized roubaix tyres and they seem good and not too pricey.
Can anyone please tell me if new models is on the way this summer ..?
Don't want to buy one if there something "nicer" on the way?
Cheers
I need a new bottom bracket, and a tool to remove the current one and fit the replacement. Will any of the normal external bottom bracket tools work? Also, I've seen the Samox one on the Evans website but it's £30 which is more than I can bought they'd be. Any suggestions for a good value/quality replacement? Shimano would be fine
its a 2015 arkose 2
Ive fit up to 1.8 29er tires and a cowbell 3 (trp mechanicals) on my 17' arkose.
Here is another photo of the Pinnacle Arkose 2, 2016.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/paulclayton/29424417708
This is so cool info big Thanks....
Do you remember the tire ? Big side knobs?
And do you have pictures of the cowbell and the tires?
Cheers Rasmus
Quick update on my creaking bottom bracket. Bought the park tool bottom bracket tool and a new samox BB from evans. Installed it last night - pretty straight forward (once I got the rubber/plastic mallet out) and the park tool worked great
oh, go on then, here's another photo. I've taken my pinnacle away with me on holiday to the south coast.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/paulclayton/43404654011
Hi folks,
I'm very tempted to get a Pinnacle Arkose X for my commute/general dicking about when I don't want to ride my MTB... but was wondering, how easy would it be to convert to SRAM Apex or Rival 1x11? Alternatively, are there any Shimano offerings in 1x11, if that would be easier/cheaper? Sorry, I'm out of touch with the latest developments over the past few years! 1x10 was still the new thing when I converted my Mega 😀
Cheers,
Lee
Sorry RS, missed this,
The tourer looks fantastic – brilliant spec and silly value – didn’t realise it was out
Thanks - no fanfare launch needed, just a tourer isn't it ; ) they sell steadily in stores and that's that. I like bikes like that. Tyres are 35mm w/ guards as std, with loads of space. Road/tour 40s would fit. There's more space up front if you wanted to put a bigger front tyre on it.
I’m very tempted to get a Pinnacle Arkose X for my commute/general dicking about when I don’t want to ride my MTB… but was wondering, how easy would it be to convert to SRAM Apex or Rival 1×11? Alternatively, are there any Shimano offerings in 1×11, if that would be easier/cheaper?
The Arkose 4 with SRAM 1x11? Converting the Arkose X would involve a new rear wheel / wheelset, brakes and transmission. The aim of the Arkose X is to do a similar job, with brilliant hydro brakes, at a lower cost (and we had 1x with hydro out a couple of years ahead of the SRAM CX 1x11 so we're keen to keep the format in the range)
@jameso are there any ss arose still available?
Sold out now sorry. A shame, I think it had one of the best paint jobs we've done and I didn't grab myself a L before we sold them all. We do have Arkose Alfine framesets though, basically the same thing, an Arkose with a pinch-shell EBB.
Can anyone please tell me if new models is on the way this summer ..?
Don’t want to buy one if there something “nicer” on the way?
New models due November ... like when new model year bikes used to come out, before 2019 bikes got released in June 2018 : )
The Arkose 4 with SRAM 1×11? Converting the Arkose X would involve a new rear wheel / wheelset, brakes and transmission. The aim of the Arkose X is to do a similar job, with brilliant hydro brakes, at a lower cost (and we had 1x with hydro out a couple of years ahead of the SRAM CX 1×11 so we’re keen to keep the format in the range)
Thanks for the reply James.
The 4 is over budget sadly (limited to £1000 C2W voucher).
A new wheel? Why is that? I’ve swapped between different speed SRAM and Shimano cassettes on my MTB wheelset (Mavic Crossmax ST) with no issues.
How about adding a XT 11-42t cassette and one of the 11spd Shadow mechs? Can the bar end shifter accommodate an extra gear?
^ If you used a Shimano 11s cassette you'd not need a new wheel, no ... I was thinking full SRAM. Must keep my bodging hat on...
If you prefer Shimano 1x11 all you'll need to do is either use the bar end shifter in friction - it's really not as hard as some might think, quite nice once you're used to it and all of a sudden you're free of all pains in the arse related to index compatibility. Or get a Microshift 11s MTB barenders, or the easier-to-find thumbie and convert it to a barender ( https://www.charliethebikemonger.com/microshift-thumb-shifters-10-and-11-speed-2924-p.asp - thumbs up to CTBM)
Hiya James.
Wondered if you could confirm the tyre clearance on the tourer?
Anything else you'd like to tell us about it?
Thanks.
Hi,
I have the Pinnacle Arkose 4 and I'm loving it, the spec is excellent for the money. I must say James that your ongoing contribution to this forum played a big part in my decision to go with the Arkose. Respect and thanks to you for this really impressive level of engagement with your customers.
I'm hoping for some advice on going tubeless. The bike is sold as "tubeless ready" but my local bike shop have advised I should get some new tape for the rims they reckon the stock stuff looks a bit porous. I checked the spec sheet and am none the wiser when it comes to the right rim tape width and also the valve lengths required for conversion can you help?
The Riddler tyres are fantastic but after I punctured when I stupidly hit a kerb too fast I could not for the life of me get the bead off the rim to replace the tube, I had to take the wheel in to the shop for help. I now dread the thought of puncturing out in the middle of nowhere and figure that going tubeless will reduce puncture risk.
Any help appreciated cheers
On the plus side if the bead was a pig to get off at least it should be a good tubeless seal! 🙂
Did you work your way all the way around both sides with your thumbs to break the seal?
Planet X have tubeless tape, good and valves quite cheap at the moment, assuming they haven't applied a random price hike since I last bought some of course!
Att hochmatoch : Goin tubeless will change the cycling for you..... Try with some gorilla tape or kapton tape. My last bike with wtb rims didn't work with wtbs own tape don't no why...but I do know that tubeless is good overall.
Can you tak a picture of your bike with tire clearance both in front and in the rear ? I would really help a bike friend in Denmark ....
( James is indeed very helpful is he a dealer or ?)
Cheers
hochmatoch - going tubeless will reduce your risk of puncturing. However if you struggled to repair a puncture in the inner tube, setting up tubeless is going to be a big undertaking for you.
I've got my Arkose 4 set up tubeless, and I'm experienced at doing it, and I found it to be a bit of a struggle, both with the original tyres, and the new set (Riddler 45C) that I've put on it. So much so that I had to go and buy a tubeless inflator.
Converting too tubeels can be struggle.... But a good trick is to use the tire tube...
First put the tubeless tape on the naked rim. Then put the tire on with a tire tube just like normal. Put air in the tube and make the tire "pop" out in the rim. Then you remove the tube but only loosen the tire in one side. Then fill air in the tire and normally this will help when the tubeless sealant is making the air staying in the tire. It's also a good idea to use som extra sealant when the tire is set up the first time...
Hope my English is OK?
New models due November … like when new model year bikes used to come out, before 2019 bikes got released in June 2018 : )
James - Any plans to offer a full bike with 650B wheels?
Thanks for the input everyone. I will probably employ my local bike shop to get set up. They're recommending the Milkit kit but to me it seems very expensive for what it is.
It’s worth learning how to do tubeless yourself, as you’ll need to top up sealant every now and then.
I predict a 15 mile walk home at some point in the future for hochmatoch! 😆
Ach wheesht! I'd like to get set up properly and then be able to do the topping up and maintaining myself
I have just ordered an Arkose 3, I want some wide (>35mm) road tyres - any recommendations?
i set my arkose 4 up tubeless myself having zero experience with it - was dead easy. 2 valves and some 25mm wide VAR tubeless tape. Ensure when you’re sticking it down you really stretch it into the central well of the rim and press any air out using your thumb. Put a single layer on, pair of schwalbe g one speeds went up and held air first time with a normal track pump. Getting the tyres on (and the riddler’s off) was fine with some IRC tubeless levers. Squirted the sealant in through the valve with a syringe gizmo from wiggle.
Will anyone take some pictures? Interested in tire space front and back.....
It is fairly easy to set up tubeless, when everything goes to plan.
It’s when it doesn’t that it can be a pain in the arse.
I’m riding my Arkose with 45C Riddlers on. The 38s are great for gravel, but struggle a bit when it gets more uneven.
The thing I like is the fact that I can pretty much go anywhere on this bike. I’ve got a rack and panniers on and it pretty much goads me to go for long rides think about adventures on it. I’ve also taken it out for some fairly gentle mountain biking with friends. It’s transformed my commute which is now off road for a significant part, cutting out a nasty main road.
The things I’m not so pleased about are:
The overly long stem it came with (90mm on a L) - now swapped out for a 70mm.
The fragile rear rim which already need truing after 6 weeks.
The Evans own-brand mudguards which rattled incessantly and didn’t have enough clearance for 45C tyres despite stating so on the pack.
Things that would make it a perfect bike for me:
A 650B OEM option with OEM wide guards
A bolt thru rear axle. I’ve already had the QR twist out of the dropouts down a slightly gnarly descent.
Possibly a titanium framed version?
Overall I’m very pleased and would recommend it to anyone looking for a fun do-it-all bike.
I’ve already had the QR twist out of the dropouts down a slightly gnarly descent.
Loose QR? The only forces going on that would move the axle in the dropouts are side forces vs a loose QR. It's not the same as the front where there's a better reason for a thru-axle.
The fwe guards ... they're not great are they. We've got some Pinnacle guards due in later this year, same type as the ones used on the Chromium. I have them on my bike, they're solid. When they're in stock PM me and we'll sort a swap for you.
The overly long stem it came with (90mm on a L) – now swapped out for a 70mm.
thats pretty standard length for a large road based frame
I know I asked before about di2, but the one thing I cant figure out is... Would i be able to feed the front mech wire out the bottom of the BB hole and up the seattube to the mech?
Also, is there an internal path to the rear mech? i.e inside the chainstay
Thank you.
Is the Brand X CX dropper post with internal routed cable compatible with an 17" arkose 4 frame? Heres a link http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/brand-x-ascend-27-2-cx-dropper-seatpost/rp-prod159175
Sure looks like a great addition...Cheers
I think an internal routed dropper post won’t be compatible with the Arkose frame.
I drilled the frame to connect the rear light internally and had to go around the EBB shell on the outside.
Wouldn't this work with a dropper post, too?
Better to go in from the front or rear of the tube than sides on that frame, but it would work for the cable or wire. No guarantee it'll not crack there after a while though.
I was thinking that if i could get to the shifter-brake internal cable routing on the down tube thru the BB shell id be good.
James - do the ST and BB shell connect or is the BB shell blocked off?
flows - recently had a shoulder replaced and have read how folks in post op have favored flat and alt bars to dropbars.
I was wondering what my arkose would look like using a riser or jones J bend bar other than a drop bar and now i know. I have a j bend bar set up on a CX bike i use for commuting and love it. It would be an easy transfer over to the arkose.....
jrmac - I really like the riser for commuting duties or shorter general rides. If you like the multiple hand positions of the Jones bar on your CX you can't go wrong with it on the Arkose.
You can route an electronic cable internally around the bb but a cable hose wouldn't have enough room because the holes aren't that big.
Healing vibes to your shoulder!
Does anyone know if the 2019 model is going to have thru axle at the back?
Loose QR? The only forces going on that would move the axle in the dropouts are side forces vs a loose QR. It’s not the same as the front where there’s a better reason for a thru-axle.
I've had issues with my On-one Fatty's rear QR, Shimano, Salsa, Hope are fine, but the OEM ones sometime just aren't putting enough tension on the axle it seems. It never twisted out but resulted in a persistent creaking and would occasionally migrate a few mm so the disk rubbed.
My 2016 Arkose 2 with a set of Hunt 4Seasons Gravel tubeless wheels. The new wheels transform the bike. I have also replaced the TRY Spyre callipers with Shimanos and they work so much better.
Can’t make my mind up whether to get the c2w friendly Arkose 2 is stump up the extra £250 for the 3. I like the black finish of the 3!
Hi James - I thought I'd ask here instead of starting a new thread as I know you still check in here (which is much appreciated and one of the reasons I opted for an Arkose previously and am looking at a Dolomite now).
I am planning on purchasing a Dolomite frameset to build up as a winter bike (using existing bits and TRP Spyres for now, with hydro calipers to follow in due course).
I'm 5ft11 / 180cm, with (I think) a 33" inseam - I'm on a large Arkose, which works well and would appreciate your thoughts on sizing for the Dolomite. The chart suggests medium goes up to 5ft10, with the large for 5ft10 to 6ft1.
Thanks very much,
Ben
I’m on a large Arkose, which works well and would appreciate your thoughts on sizing for the Dolomite.
Hi Ben, tbh I try to avoid sizing advice online as it's so hard to do well. But here it's easy, buy the L : ) The bikes are all sized from the same methods, as far as you can go with any worthwhile logic on something subjective. If you like the Arkose I can't see why you won't be happy on a Dolomite with no more than +/-10mm on the stem or some adjustment to the saddle position. Evans has a Right Bike Guarantee so if I'm wrong, just blame my advice! And we'll swap it (within 30 days).
Cheers, James
My Riddlers have to go: I'm averaging a puncture every two rides. Does anyone have a recommendation for an alternative with a similar balance of on and off road performance?
@jameso Thanks very much (and caveats noted!)
Frameset will be purchased this evening and built up soon.
the Riddlers both pinch flatted after the first 2 miles but tubeless they weren’t great either.
Just installed Spesh Sawtooth 42c on both ends tubeless and apart from being horrific to seat, ride well. They’re much grippier (surprisingly for me) on loose climbs than the Riddlers. Bit more give too.
I’ve gone to Riddler 45s. Fingers crossed, so far they seem to be holding up well. I have set them up tubeless.
@sumsar81 sorry it took so long
as you can see, miles of clearance each end, these are the 38mm Riddlers
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-MAMSauQWvjEjbvjPIBO8NFdjrfZ6PJ4/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DzXE5VY5P77YQX_4emS9KpJOIGgfMKKR
Hope these links work?
Really helpful so a big thank you!! Much appreciated ...
Is it to much to ask how much space you have between seattube and tire and space just behind bottom bracket if that makes any sense....
Is the Neon pretty much an Arkose with flat bars?
Any experiences here with 700x42 WTB Resolutes in a 2016 Arkose fork?
According to the reviews they can blow up to 44mm sometimes which I'm afraid is going to be too much for the fork. I've thought on downsizing to 650Bx42 Resolutes but that would lower the BB quite a bit compared to a 700x40 tire.
I've ran 650Bx42 Panaracers Pari Moto's this spring and summer on the road and must say I'm quite impressed. I've only found it to be lacking compared to 700x28 when riding at speeds around and above 40 kph and when sprinting, then it becomes a bit too draggy.
Is the Neon pretty much an Arkose with flat bars?
Yes, basically just that. Not the same frame geo but very close overall.
Any experiences here with 700×42 WTB Resolutes in a 2016 Arkose fork?
I know Nano 40s were about as big as we could go in that fork so probably not, but WTB measure tyre tread width so they may vary a bit from the Nano. You'll be down to 4mm or so clearance I think. The new fork was specced to fit 45s with loads more mud clearance.
Just picked up my Arkose 3 yesterday. Going to be using it as my winter commuter so fit some guards and pannier rack. I've got mudguards but stuck with what rack to get. What do you guys recommend ? Cheaper the better and also easy to fit.
I've been deliberating between an Arkose and a Dolomite for commuter/winter trainer duties and sure both would be fine. The better spec dolomites seem to be sold out in a medium and I don't want a white bike so it rules out the dolomite 3. So question is really how much slower would an Arkose be on the Sunday club run? Or do I wait until the new stock comes in and how long will it be?
@joat - I bought an Arkose 3 about 6 weeks ago, it has been amazing. Very sure footed and comfortable.
I have ridden it on two 70 mile club-runs and it did not seem to be a struggle (even with the standard WTB Riddlers fitted. I have some 42mm Conti Contact Speeds arriving before the weekend that I will probably swap over before this weekend's club-run. I was a bit concerned about how slow it would be but have been pleasantly surprised.
So question is really how much slower would an Arkose be on the Sunday club run?
As stock bikes, maybe 2kph max average at a guess (based on my experiences where 25-27kph is my solo av on rolling roads) and most of that will be in the tyres. If the tyres and wheels were the same any time/speed differences would be down to your position. Get the position thhe same and I expect you'd need a lab to measure the differences.
Looks like I might be bothering the bank account soon, thanks, I think.
Yeah, I reckon I'm about 2 kph slower on the Arkose than my Mason Definition. The Mason has a much more "road" riding position though so I reckon a fair bit less wind resistance.