[Closed] Pedal Strike: Shorter cranks?

First few weeks I rode my transition scout I had pedal strikes all the time due to the low BB but I got used to repositioning my feet/pedals. And rather than changing cranks think about getting thinner pedals.

That's interesting. One of the reasons I went for a FlareMax is that it has a higher BB than most similar bikes these days and I get very few pedal strikes. I am running 170mm GX eagle (boost) cranks though.

OP - no, you need a GXP bottom bracket for SRAM cranks, the axle diameter is different.

I second the comment about pedals but it also just takes some adjustment to how you ride and when you pedal IME

I’m terms of gxp compatibility you can use a Sram B.B. / Hope / Uberbike etc.

Not sure how it works with the new Sram dub standard though - other manufacturers might not have compatible bbs yet.

I ran my FlareMAX in plus setup so with 170mm cranks and used to get loads of pedal strikes on technical climbs. Was great going down though!

I am on 175 cranks ...

And shimano changing the BCD so you can't use after market just pisses me off.  TBH, I am not sure that a "boost" crank set is needed ....

So may look at the old stock ...

Mine were non boost xt m8000 and ran fine.

Uberbike do chainrings for the M7000/8000 cranksets. I have one and it's been fine, nicely finished and good value too

Lots of situation where a low BB is great. And if the bikers (and testers) always take the ski lift uphill they are fine with those very low BBs.

Pedaling uphill, on steep rocky tight trails is out of fashion?

One of my bikes is the Bossnut V2. Testers complain that the BB is too high!

Well - if Calibre bikes moves the BB down with the "2019 model" or so - uphill pedaling on those difficult trails will be less fun and more stress...

too much rear-end sag? cheaper to remedy..

Together with slighty less sag and slightly shorter cranks (170mm) I have not been getting any rock strikes.

too much rear-end sag? cheaper to remedy..

Or low speed compression. Basically, don’t touch the cranks until you’re completely happy with the suspension setup

Sorting out the sag issues at the present with the shock manufacturer / Cotic

Bigger tyres? What size are you running?

SRAM changeover to DUB confuses your BB question unfortunately. And… DUB uses a different BB tool to the one used for other BBs. Compatibility woes increase yet again…

As others have said… play with suspension settings before splashing cash.

Hmm; curious 🙂

I've been suffering more pedal strikes with my FlareMax - but I think it's partly because the BB is lower than my old bike (old school 2004 Whyte PRST) and that I'm being a bit more aggresive; more pressure in the shock and a bit more LSC damping seems to have helped; but I'm definitely noticing it !

I'm curious what "Sorting out the sag issues at the present with the shock manufacturer" means - are you getting excessive sag for a given pressure ? Also; is this with the X-Fusion shock or the CaneCreek ?

I’m curious too regarding the sag. I have a standard Flare and get pedal strikes a fair bit.

Look ahead and start paying attention to your foot position and pedal timing with regards to what's coming up next on the trail and you don't need shorter cranks. even with a really low BB.
Cotic Flaremax doesn't have a particularly low BB

That's pretty much what I thought geez; but I think I'm used to a massively tall BB, not that the flare is especially low...

I went from a 2001 Marin with Boxxers (BB in the sky) to about 2 months on a Capra, then to a Patrol, which has a pretty low BB. The first couple of months were a clumsy shitstorm. Included at least one very painful high speed off due to a pedal strike. However, nearly 2 years later it's very rare that I get a strike. Not because I'm a great rider, because I'm not, but because I've just got used to timing and ratcheting 🙂

You'll get used to it and reap the benefits on the techy stuff. Stick with it, it's worth it 🙂