[Closed] Pannier racks - help!

topeak dx is my choice of rack. never had a failure.
and the 700c version will fit your bike perfect, it is designed for disc frames.

Classic...you don't need a disc specific rack as your brake is mounted inside the rear triangle.

Either rack you mention will work fine, along with pretty much anything. I quite like Tortec racks BTW (former lbs monkey) they are as good as anything for the money IMO.

Black will scratch, silver will but you won't see it.

Get touring/commuting!

+1 For the Topeak DX

Not pretty, but strong as houses.

Topeak, Tortec, Blackburn. They'll all work a treat. The narrow ones like Tortec Velocity look a bit neater, albeit with no space for a top load, and suit commuting duties well.

thisisnotaspoon - Member
+1 For the Topeak DX

Not pretty, but strong as houses.

Also: ugly, bulky, heavy, wide, rated weight-wise the same.

I've a got a Tortec Velocity - it's absolutely bob on.

Also: ugly, bulky, heavy, wide, rated weight-wise the same.

Strictly is on TV and I'm bored so I'll get sucked into a fairly pointless argument.

[u]Refuting your points:[/u]
There's ~200g in it, which once loaded with panniers is sod all really.

All racks are going to be the same overall width (~135mm).

And once covered in panniers, you can't see them anyway.

[u]Pluses for the DX (or other racks):[/u]
Full size racks are great for bungeeing shopping to the top of.

That extra 200g gets you a stiffer rack and a second set of lower bars which lower the COG by about 40mm (which is going to have more of an effect on handling than saving 200g on a ~20kg set of full panniers).

Thanks for all the advice!

I don't think I need any space for a top load, so I guess I'll go with either the Tortec Tour Ultralite or Velocity Hybrid. (I still can't really tell the difference - both are 10mm alloy tubing and both have a 25kg load limit...)

That extra 200g gets you a stiffer rack and a second set of lower bars which lower the COG by about 40mm (which is going to have more of an effect on handling than saving 200g on a ~20kg set of full panniers)

I hadn't really thought about that. Does COG make a big difference? Tortec do a rack with that setup (the Epic Alloy):

[img] [/img]

Reckon that'd be better?

The only manufacturer of racks that I have had and not broken are Tubus

I had a toppeak DX but sold it on as it was really heavy and very clunky to fit

thisisnotaspoon - Member
Strictly is on TV and I'm bored so I'll get sucked into a fairly pointless argument.

I bow to your superiority.

Refuting your points:
There's ~200g in it, which once loaded with panniers is sod all really.

Indeed, but when you're not fully loaded (90% of my riding and I am confident, many others) it may matter to you.

All racks are going to be the same overall width (~135mm).

Just measures my lodgers one. 235mm. You tool!

And once covered in panniers, you can't see them anyway.

See above. Not everyone with panniers rides with 2 if them all the time.

Pluses for the DX (or other racks):...
That extra 200g gets you a stiffer rack and a second set of lower bars which lower the COG by about 40mm (which is going to have more of an effect on handling than saving 200g on a ~20kg set of full panniers).

It's going to matter very little, especially when 100kg of you is in the saddle.

You have checked the overall height if the rack vs others? This varies significantly, but you won't know thst, just Like you didn't know the width.

I hadn't really thought about that. Does COG make a big difference? Tortec do a rack with that setup (the Epic Alloy):

It's a noticeable difference if the panniers are full certainly. 20kg dropped 40mm is like dropping your BB and bodyweight by 10mm. But that's only if you carry 20kg, which is maybe unlikely on a commute unless you're my OH and take your entire contents of your desk in your bag just incase it snows in August and you need to work from home. If it's just shirt trousers and y-fronts each day then you've nothing to lose going light.

As for weight, panniers broadly fall into 3 categories:

Light (500g): Usually with only 1 bar at the top and simple triangle uprights.

Normal (750g): Topeak DX, tourtec transalp etc, 2 bars at the top and an extra rearmost upright at the back to stop the panniers twisting.

Heavy (900g+) : For riding round the world with the kitchen sink.

especially when 100kg of you is in the saddle.

No need to get personal, it;s glandular 😥

😛

But that's only if you carry 20kg, which is maybe unlikely on a commute unless you're my OH and take your entire contents of your desk in your bag just incase it snows in August and you need to work from home.

I'll be taking a full change of clothes and shoes, my 13" laptop and charger, personals (wallet, phone, keys, etc.), some documents and possibly some lunch. No idea how much all that will weigh, but unlikely to be 20kg.

The only manufacturer of racks that I have had and not broken are Tubus

I'm hoping the fact that I won't be carrying heavy loads means that I'll be fine? The Tubus ones are more than double the price...

That said, do you all reckon it'd be worth me getting the Epic Alloy rather than the Tour Ultralite, so I can mount the panniers a bit lower? The Epic is 790g and £30, whereas the Tour is 560g and £20.

I wouldn't worry too much about the height of the panniers.

My view is cog is meaningless, once you're in the saddle your cog will be nearer your belly button.

Minutiae in bb heights are relevant in MTBs, not loaded road bikes.

A tubus might last a lifetime but your velocity will last pretty well for the use you describe IMO. Normal brands do most of us fine, tj is an exception 😉

got a second hand topeak dx for sale if you want one?

A tubus might last a lifetime but your velocity will last pretty well for the use you describe IMO. Normal brands do most of us fine, tj is an exception

Great. Thanks for your help everyone!

The only concern I would have is the Roadhouse only has one set of eyelets, so the rack would share the fixing with the rear mudguard. you may need some longer bolts and, hopefully, they are M5, not M4.

In any case, [b]ashfanman[/b], I would love to see some photos of your final build.

Does COG make a big difference?

Well, I was thinking that your COG would be a little lower than normal, with laden panniers, and you have a chunk of weight lower on the bike than normal, but then I'm not a scientist or 'engineer' and found all that sort of stuff quite boring at school which is why I went in a more visually creative direction, leaving me incapable of answering such a question in an intelligent and informed manner (now, if only certain other posters on here would recognise this about themselves!). 😀

But having just returned from a mini-break where we used panniers, I did find that the extra weight where it was, made for 'interesting' handling (not used to traveling with heavy panniers), and I had to be a little more cautions when turning, and riding in heavy traffic and at slower speeds. I imagine that a lower COG would be beneficial, but again, I'm neither a scientist nor an engineer..

I wou;d say that the stiffer the rack the better, as I could feel mine wobbling about quite alarmingly at times, and I would be wary of the longevity of an aluminium rack flexing so much over time.

My Topeak rack is ace, 18 months in and all good so far

Used for attaching a kids seat to, a folding Topeak milk crate (with built in extending handle), panniers, laptop bag, or a rack pack

Milk crate and panniers often used in conjunction. Rackpack slots straight onto the rack as it's a Topeak one. Used for commuting and the ease of attaching and detaching makes it particularly awesome

It's fitted to an Arkose and when it's loaded up it's pretty flexy, I have to sit to pedal. BUT, that's me using the bike in a way that's pushing it, not the racks fault

I also like the built in light mount at the back, I have a light permanently attached

The lower set of pannier rails means you can mount the panniers and milk crate really easy (or rack pack and laptop bag)