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About to go 1x10 and looking at NW rings - round.
Then I thought - having read a Chipps article on a Rotor oval ring that there must be some science to it other than them just being a bit 'quirky'.
Who's tried/got/loves/hates them?
Worth a serious consideration?
Smoother pedalling cycle, after a couple of minutes getting used to them.
It just makes sense once you think about it. I have ridden AB on a 1x10 FS and Goldtec OneKey on an SS.
Not a game changer but I am sure I feel an improvement and will be sticking with them in the future.
biopace makes my shins ache. not relevant; but still true!
^^ don't use the b-word!!
I tend to switch between round and oval quite a bit, although not through choice.
I much prefer the oval chainrings. They seem smoother and on the MTB I think they help on technical climbs.
I was underwhelmed at first but the longer I use it the.more.I think my pedalling is smoother and more knee friendly. More traction I'm not yet sure
Not tried mine yet but they had better be good as i foolishly stripped the hex head on one of the chainring bolts, so it seems they are staying put for now. Ham fisted muppet. I also had some serious problems fitting them in the correct position on the middle chainring tabs but still clearing my chainstays. I suspect that could be cos its an older frame but still was frustrating.
Will report after 1st ride.
Bought first Absolute Black one just for a try, liked it. Even helped with the knee pain I get.
Second one bought for the other build now.
Not a miracle worker but I like the theory behind the design, it just makes sense to me so the placebo effect probably helps too!
Liked my 34t one from AB, found it easier to maintain a smooth pedal stroke over rough tree roots and rocks etc. found no major difference whilst climbing.
Would have got an oval 36t had they have made one.
I have one on the MTB, purely because it was cheaper than the round one.
After about 2 minutes, I couldn't tell the difference. Ride a road bike all week with round rings, ride the MTB at the weekend, still can't tell the difference.
Can they be used on double or triples?
I went from a 34 round to a 32 oval over the summer and really like it. I'm not sure if I could tell the difference in a blind test but it feels more spinny without feeling lower geared if that makes sense. I was concerned about dropping the ring size but in practice it's not an issue even on 26".
Mines a works components one and it's very good and pretty cheap with their introductory offer.
I've got an Absolute Black 32T on my 29er hardtail.
As others have said you don't really notice it after the first 5 mins.
However it does seem to stop that pulsing in pedal stroke that leads to a slipping rear wheel on steep slippy thrutchy climbs.
I love them.
I have a onekey on my SS (36T)
I wanted another for my new SS, but Goldtec were out of onekeys in 36T.
I found an absolute black, but once it arrived, I realised I had a 5arm spider on my middleburns 🙁
And no one does 5arm eliptical rings, nor can I find a middleburn direct fit 36T
so I need to keep an eye out for a s/h 4arm middleburn spider...anyone?
Quick google and you'll likely see several new threads a week on here about them.
Used Rotor oval rings on the TT bike for a couple of seasons, think they help reduce fatigue mostly.
Recently stuck an AB oval on the XC bike for the first time. Didn't notice any difference in the way it felt to pedal, though was quite surprised to feel like I could hold on to bigger gears for a bit longer than usual. Raced it for the first time over the weekend in some pretty foul conditions, did ok and no chain issues either. I'm sticking with it. I'm even quite tempted to try something with a more extreme wonky shape like the Osymetric.
must be some science to it other than them just being a bit 'quirky'.
It's not really that complicated. Makes the ring a bit bigger during the power phase of the pedal stroke, and a bit smaller at the top and bottom. Seems quite sensible really (and the exact opposite to the B word.)
and of course you have to adjust the pedalling style over time so they just felt weird..
Is odd that some people find this and others (like me) don't notice any weirdness at all in feel (if anything it feels a bit smoother.) I suspect if you've already got a very smooth and efficient pedal stroke you'll notice a bigger difference than if you're a masher.
Went from 32 round to 34 oval on a singlespeed and it wasn't any harder to get up hills. Does seem to help with not stalling at that tricky point during the pedal stroke on steep grindy climbs. I've not bothered for my geared bikes, but for SS'ing they're ace.
I couldn't feel the difference at all after putting it on, but if you ride along one legged up a slight incline, its a surprisingly pronounced effect, though of course you'll look like a tit.
I run them on both the rigid 29er (32t AB) and the 27.5 FS (32t One Up). Definitely better at low cadence, out-of-the-saddle efforts.
And they look cool.
stoner,
AB do a 5-bolt oval but it's 110bcd and 38t so probably not what you want.
http://www.absoluteblack.cc/cx-oval-110-5-bcd-cyclocross-chainring/
cheers reggie. I hink thats the wrong BCD for my old spider.
I really ought to just get a 4arm spider. Although Id love a direct mount 36T....
... makes me wonder - is there more material on the SRAM direct mount chainring than on the middleburn one? i.e. can I DIY adapt a SRAM to fit a middleburn?
I've got an absoluteblack on the hardtail. Can't really tell when I'm riding tbh but it's 2 teeth bigger than I'd normally use and seems to work the same. Honestly, no idea, it could be doing something useful that I just don't notice.
Just going to put one on the fatbike just to try and reduce the boinginess while pedalling.
and of course you have to adjust the pedalling style over time so they just felt weird..
Oh and it's worth noting that with rings like the AB you have just one shape (I think a fairly mild ovalisation) and one orientation option. This will suit some better than others. Which is why people like Rotor offer different ovals and multiple mounting positions. I've seen articles that suggest that if you notice a wonkiness when pedalling then you probably don't have the optimal ovalisation or orientation.
Stoner - MemberI need to keep an eye out for a s/h 4arm middleburn spider...anyone?
I may have one at home - drop me a line and I'll see if I can dig it out (if I'm not using it on one of the bikes)
I'm using a works component 'oval' narrow/wide ring on my bike. In terms of pedalling it doesnt feel any different, ie you dont feel the different shape of the ring. But it does (for me anyway) feel like it makes a significant difference to the effort required to pedal up a steep hill. It feels a little like being in 1 gear lower than you actually are in terms of the effort you put in.
No idea if thats placebo effect or something else, but I got personal bests on various climbs immediately after fitting it. These are climbs that I have been riding for the past 4 years or so, so I have a lot of data to compare to. It took about 30 secs off a 10 minute climb.
I'm happy with it.
Goldtech OneKey ring user here.
For singlespeed, I wouldn't use anything else.
For a geared set-up...not sure.
Rotor Q Rings on every bike, XC, SS, road and CX. Love them.
spdr - cheers, YGM
Had bio***** back in the day, recently used an oval on my hack and didn't think much of it at the time.
It was a 38T oval, made my legs hurt, but worked fine and I could climb up what was on my usual route without too much of a strain.
changed cranks so needed to chainge chainring as it was a different BCD.
decided to downsize to a 36T round. The difference was quite noticable. the 36T was quite a struggle to push in the same sprocket I'd previously used the 38T in. So though the 38T was an effort, it seemed to enable me to put the effort to better use than just a round ring.
When I have some cash and the round ring is dead, I'll be changing back to oval.
Due to a crank failure I've had to drop my absolute black oval. Climbing is certainly harder work without it.
Looking to try one, has anyone experience of using both a AB one and a Works components one if so did you have preference.
Seems most people are using the Absolute black one any reason for that? over the others available.
AB were first to the table. Also they're very pretty! I've got a Works one on the way, it's a different size though and it's going on a different bike so not likely to be very informative...
Never been convinced that the AB chain retention is quite as good as my normal Works chainring mind.
Got an AB one on my FS. Got a standard ring on my HT. Cant tell the difference!
Works appear to be the cheapest. Just no M8000 yet...
Just put one on a full suspension bike out of interest as I needed a new chainring; very impressed when it comes to traction on technical climbs. On the flat I haven't noticed too much difference but my legs are less tired at the end of a big ride.
Absolute Black also offer a 30 day trial so what's there to lose? If you don't get on with it they will send you a new round one. Go for the same size as your normal round imo.
Is there any movement in the derailleur as you pedal? In theory it ought to be minimal, but evidence would be nice. (I am thinking energy loss with a clutch mech.)
greyspoke - Member
Is there any movement in the derailleur as you pedal? In theory it ought to be minimal, but evidence would be nice. (I am thinking energy loss with a clutch mech.)
AB have a video showing next to no movement - I think in reality there's a little if you have a longer cage
Oh thanks your honour, might give one a try when I'e worn my round ones out.
My only bike is old Courier Comp with biopace. Don't know if it makes any difference but I just like the fact that it's a bit wonky.
Recently changed to an AB 34t one, can't tell the difference TBH....
Do oval rings wear out/cause problems with Shimano clutches?
Do oval rings wear out/cause problems with Shimano clutches?
No. Why would they?
Any problems with chain tension on a single speed with an eccentric BB
Any problems with chain tension on a single speed with an eccentric BB
No different to a round ring.
Geoff Apps says
https://crosscountrycycle.wordpress.com/2014/09/16/out-of-round/
How much larger do people go when moving to an elliptical chain ring, 32t to 34 or 36?
Macavity - Member
Geoff Apps says
https://crosscountrycycle.wordpress.com/2014/09/16/out-of-round/
Looking at your chainset, rotating clockwise from the vertical, as your pedal reaches around 30 degrees it enters the power phase where your leg muscles have optimum potential. Power input increases dramatically, reaching its peak about 15 degrees above the forward horizontal
His comments and pictures seem to show a difference in the location of peak ovality. He puts it with crank 15 degrees before horizontal, AB rings seems to have it 15 degrees past horizontal?
Do oval rings wear out/cause problems with Shimano clutches?No. Why would they?
They might (with any design of clutch) if the effect of the oval ring was to vary the amount of slack in the chain slightly as you pedaled as you would have the mech continuously working the clutch, as opposed to only doing so when you changed gear. Thuis potentially wearing out your clutch and losing you energy. But this (change in slack) oughtn't to happen and apparently doesn't (see honourablegeorges reply to my question higher up).
In any event, if you use a clutch mech on an FS bike, specially one with a high (virtual) pivot point, your mech will be sawing about a bit as you ride anyhow.
if the effect of the oval ring was to vary the amount of slack in the chain slightly
Umm if I remember my maths properly then they'll still wrap the same amount of chain in any position so chain tension will remain constant.
I seem to remember the chain on sky road bikes flapping up and down when they used oval rings.
Osymetric rings are not oval! (they're a double cam apparently)
I use Q rings on all my bikes, Got the QX1 on the hardtail and i'm able to push a 34T for XC racing, it's so good. Bit more ovalised than the normal Q's.
I use a double Q ring set up on Shimano crank on the full sus.
An interesting point was made to me the other day, Shimano now acknowledges the point where most power is produced in the pedal stroke by strengthening the cranks at those points, see the new 105 or Dura Ace cranks (4 bolt). That where the oval rings help, you push a bigger gear with less noticable effort, so produce more power for longer. You don't produce power at the dead spot, so just get through it quicker. The real benefit on a MTB is traction, it's so obvious. I've ridden Absolute black too, both excellent.
I'm amazed some people can't tell the difference.
Begs the question: what else haven't you noticed...?
I'm amazed some people can't tell the difference.
How do you perceive it to be different?
I've read that if you can tell the difference then the ring orientation and shape probably isn't right for you and needs to be tweaked.
Begs the question: what else haven't you noticed...?
I also remember reading that there are people who are very sensitive to setup changes and others who aren't. I think it was from the team Sky physiologist bloke. Used Geraint Thomas as an example, where he swapped bikes one race and they accidentally gave him the wrong bike which he rode to the end of the stage and didn't notice it was setup completely differently to his. Whereas I think it was Peter Kennaugh who'd notice if his saddle was a couple of mm off.
if the effect of the oval ring was to vary the amount of slack in the chain slightlyUmm if I remember my maths properly then they'll still wrap the same amount of chain in any position so chain tension will remain constant.
Well not exactly, hence the "slightly", I was interested in whether it was negligible or, er, gligible. The reason for a slight change is the different lengths of the chain runs and angles of wrap of the chainrings (and cassette cogs) as the effective diameter of the chainring changes.
Have run rotor q rings and goldtec wonky rings for for years on the singlespeeds. In fact many moons ago I used to pop up on this ere forum saying that actaully they were rather good, only to be told I was dobber and didn't know what the chuff I was on about.
Suddenly all the enduro gnar monkeys catch up and theyre dead common. Usual convention for ss is to go two teeth up from normal so use a 34 if you run 32 round. Used them with gears but it is much less noticable or perceivable benefit but thats because I'm a beardy luddite andgear danglers are an anathema to me these days.
no problems with chain drop either on a singlespeed you just tension the chain with the cranks at 4 oclock (most oval bit of the ring)
Still got the set up instructions I wrote for goldtec rings somewhere if folks need them.
I'm a beardy luddite andgear danglers are an anathema to me these days.
S'funny, saw you a few weeks back & your bike had gears on it... Over the Chase, by Birches...You were coming down the fire road, I was exiting the final section of FTD, on a SS rigid 29er .. IIRC you did some kind of skid to get my attention.... 🙂
reggiegasket - MemberBegs the question: what else haven't you noticed...?
Those would be unknown unknowns.
good old Mr. Rumsfeld 8)
*waves at emac* that was my Jones chap. No gears on that. In fact no gear dangly on any of me bikes 😀 skid was more of a case of rocket ron rear on loose gravel and not wanting to plow my fat front up your rear end
tazzymtb - Member*waves at emac* that was my Jones chap. No gears on that. In fact no gear dangly on any of me bikes skid was more of a case of rocket ron rear on loose gravel and not wanting to plow my fat front up your rear end
LOL, my mistake, TBH I was looking more at your "f*ck yeah" socks than if you had gears on or not 🙂
I wasn't sure I was able to detect much difference but when I rode my HT with standard rings I noticed how lumpy they felt.
LOL, my mistake, TBH I was looking more at your "f*ck yeah" socks than if you had gears on or not
I love those socks. 😀
For what it worth - I had a negative experience on the Rotor stand at the Cycle Show….I was trying some Q Rings out on the demo (road) bike on a turbo, all set up with power meters and such & I was just about to part with my cash when….the chain came off!
The guy on the stand moved so fast he nearly knocked me off the bike - clearly bad news for them for a chain to come off in front of a small crowd of potential customers! I have to say the experience put me right off which is a shame because the power readings and the general feel was actually pretty convincing….
http://int.oneupcomponents.com
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Sale ends at 12.00am PST on Tuesday, December 1, 2015
Makes their ring about £30.
all set up with power meters and such & I was just about to part with my cash when….the chain came off!
Curious that, was it changing front rings? It can be a bit tricky to set up the front mech properly, more so I believe with the properly wonky ones like the Osymmetric. I've had Rotor rings on the TT bike for a while now and I've never had a chain drop... but then I don't shift the front much.
Not an issue with a 1x setup though.
Interesting to hear these work with SS setups. My mate has one on his geared hardtail. Last weekend he broke his mech hanger and tried to bodge it a singlespeed to get home. The slack introduced by the oval ring meant the chain kept shifting up a cog at the back then getting jammed on the tight part of the cycle. Oval caused him a lot of hassle in the end.
Interesting to hear these work with SS setups. My mate has one on his geared hardtail. Last weekend he broke his mech hanger and tried to bodge it a singlespeed to get home. The slack introduced by the oval ring meant the chain kept shifting up a cog at the back then getting jammed on the tight part of the cycle. Oval caused him a lot of hassle in the end.
Id say that was more to do with inability to get perfect chain length without horizontal dropouts. Chances are he would have had the same problem with a round ring. Although you do get a tiny amount of slack with an oval ring it is not enough to loose the chain provided you can set your chain length perfectly.
They definitely work fine for proper SS or hub gear setups - no tensioner required
Fair point, could be a combination of all factors (oval cog + geared cassette + no dropout/bb adjustment). A proper singlespeed cog is of course designed to hold the chain rather than shift which will give it a higher tolerance for small amounts of slack.
^^^^^ in réponse to @mrblobby above
Yes, I was changing from the small ring to the big ring - obviously a controlled environment on a turbo and on a bike set up by them so you would think it would work particularly well - but it didn't!
I was really very tempted to part with £110 on a set of compact road rings (heavy discount on the stand that day) but was really put off. I have no doubt at all that I was just unlucky and I definitely felt them, in a beneficial way, on the rig they had set up….shame
