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So, yet again I have changed my bikes about bit to try & make me get out more, it probably won't work but I still like spending my down time messing with my bikes & trying things 🙁
So I bought into the 1X 10, oval ring & massive cassette thing, I'm not using a clutch rear mech & should you back pedal in the lowest few gears the chain wants to go backward with it, would you run more tension than this on the rear mech?
[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7673/27761552960_8a58ea4f35_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7673/27761552960_8a58ea4f35_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/JicduQ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/94658862@N08/ ]Martin Robbo[/url], on Flickr
I recon I could get another link out of the chain with a little wriggle room but the mech will be pretty stretched, is this normal?
Cheers.
I know nothing about this stuff, but like you, I made the switch to 1x10 fairly recently. I have much less tension than that, no clutch mech, just a Hope narrow-wide, and it's been fine.
Yes it's normal, more chainline related than anything. Fewer links won't help IMO. Why are you back pedalling in the granny gear? 🙂
Pic is of max tension, problem is with the lowest sprockets 😀
I forgot to add that I had to put three spacers on to the drive side so the ring clears the frame, is that OK?
Cheers.
Didn't really have a problem with tension on a Zee/40t with an Oval 34t on the FS.
Set the B-Tension to 6mm between the jockey wheel and largest cog.
What I did find the cassette "worn" quicker as the teeth couldn't engage enough.
I forgot to add that I had to put three spacers on to the drive side so the ring clears the frame, is that OK?
Is the chainring on the inside or the outside of the spider?
inside, it's for 94 BCD FSA cranks so comes with the spacers moulded on to the ring.
I'm tempted to just sell the cassette & go back to 11-36, I just think it looks weird 😕