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Anyone else on the current Orbea Wild...? Obviously it was a little late to market for some people, the hype was huge but it took forever for them to arrive! But anyway... I've just done an unrepeatable deal on one, so my Rise will be being advertised very soon...
So thoughts/experiences please, good, bad or indifferent... 👍🏻
Other than the utterly awful headset cable routing design that endlessly creaks and motor guard made of brittle cheap plastic, it's a very good bike. I got a £5k M20 on C2W but then rebuilt it with parts I already had, Yari, 11spd, Hope wheels and brakes, 210mm dropper, size medium (5ft9). The geo took a bit of getting used to, the reach is good stood up but felt very short seated. Bosch is powerful compared to previous E8000, in a way that just encourages fast riding all the time. 750WHr battery feels huge, I'd have gone for 625 if it was available to save weight.
so my Rise will be being advertised very soon…
That’s why your new bike deal was good. Your Rise will be worth peanuts compared to what you think so the cost to change will still be high.
You have seen that you can get brand new Rises with big discounts too, and now there are many more newer low fat emtbs on the market
i cant think why anyone would buy a 2nd had rise currently as they have no warranty, and this needs to be budgeted for with the Shitmano motor
(even though I think it’s a good bike)
I don’t care how good it is, it’s got unforgivable headset cable tourism.
There are plenty of other Bosch powered bikes out there, just as good, without design stupidity.
The Bosch 750wH is a monster.
I've the 'old' 2022 model, which is excellent. The FB wild group is a good community of other wild owners. My advice on the 2023&2024 models would be buy some spare headset spacers and at least 2 plastic motor covers when you can - both are in high demand due to the plastic being crackable.
There are also various aftermarket motor protection systems, invest in one.
The bike itself, geo etc is excellent though 👍
The 625 in my 22 is good for 24ish miles of hard use in constant emtb mode - prob close to 30 in tour. I've not felt the need for an additional battery, as it's a good day out.
There's a guy on the Facebook 'The Rides' (Peaks riding group) just trialled a few different bike purchases and got rid of the Wild as the headset was pure junk. Ended up back on a Specialized
I've got the 2022 Wild and I really enjoy the ride, I find the geo and the feel really nice. I really do not enjoy working on anything to do with the frame though, the pivot bearings were a pain (and lasted under a year) and there are a few other very questionable design decisions. Some of the parts on my M20 model are pretty rubbish too. I've given up on the rear wheel having gone through 2 freehubs in under a year. I've also killed 2 motors in said year, so maybe it's actually just me...
I tested around 6 Ebikes recently, the Wild being one of them. It ended up being my second choice after a Kenevo, which for me was way ahead of everything else in terms of geometry and handling. I was concerned it would be too 'DH' for my liking but it feels great everywhere. I originally wanted to a Bosch motor as well but the Kenevo just blew me away.
I'm expecting my 23 alloy rise to be delivered tomorrow.
The only thing that put me off was the headset cable routing, but it had everything else I wanted, big non removable battery, 29er, Bosch motor and a big discount.
We will see how much of a pain the headset cables routing will be when it gets here as the first change will be putting my hope brakes on it!
Bosch motor
The Rise doesn't have a Bosch motor
I meant Wild! I've definitely ordered a Wild....
I have a 23 custom carbon Wild, was an M20 but have changed everything. Usually I'd go alloy for an ebike but the alloy Wild seatstays are a bit snappy (even the 23s) and wanted the lower weight. Headset routing is gash but I have changed to a standard stem and spacers, hoping to not have to touch it for a while. Non-removable battery has pros and cons, not a deal breaker for me though. I have installed a Rockstop motor guard which seems good, doesn't transfer load to the mounting points and is removable for cleaning.
The important bit, the actual ride, is superb. Absolutely love it so far. And it runs really quiet which is important to be, I can't stand a bag of spanners!
"There are plenty of other Bosch powered bikes out there, just as good, without design stupidity." @hobnob - examples please? Canyon Strive:on has the headset routing and a battery connection issue. Mondraker has headset routing, Whyte 160 is heavy, stays are too short for me and seat angle too slack. Pole Voima I don't think is comparable, Cube Stereo 160 is 27.5, Trek Rail maybe, bit rattly though apparently. Others?
That’s why your new bike deal was good. Your Rise will be worth peanuts compared to what you think so the cost to change will still be high.
I’m well aware it’s not worth a great deal don’t worry… I guess this wouldn’t be STW though without someone posting a response to a topic automatically assuming that they know far more than everybody else and pointing out the foibles in someone else’s plan without knowing anything about it!
Let me ask you this though… If you had a 2yr old Rise M10 and could get rid of it and get onto a brand new Wild M10 for maybe £1k upcharge… Would you? I’m not saying that’s the deal here, but it’s that kind of magnitude, and my annual bonus gets paid this month and my 2yr warranty has just run out on the EP8 on the Rise, so it kinda makes a lot of sense to me right now…
I don’t care how good it is, it’s got unforgivable headset cable tourism.
It’s my only real reservation with it, but it is at least done a bit more elegantly than on some other bikes.
There are plenty of other Bosch powered bikes out there, just as good, without design stupidity.
I’m going to beg to differ here I’m afraid… I know you’ve gone total Trek fanboi these days, I just have a big problem with Trek as a company myself. Irrational maybe, but I ain’t buying one even though I have a mate that works there and could get a crazy friends and family deal. Otherwise…? Well I’d love an Unno Mith… Can’t afford one though and ain’t paying to be someone’s guinea pig based on stories of copious other Unno sales in the past… But nothing else floats my boat. The cables only go through the top bearing on the Wild and it sounds like the propretary headset spacers and stem can be junked for regular items anyway so… If I get that pissed off that it becomes a problem, I’ll just fit AXS again. A brake bleed once every time I change headset bearing isn’t the biggest of my worries, annoying as it is. To me it’s the same as people not buying a frame because it has a BB92 Bottom Bracket rather than threaded… It’s not ideal, but there are decent workable solutions to get around its inherent problem, and it wouldn’t stop me buying a frame because of it.
750WHr battery feels huge, I’d have gone for 625 if it was available to save weight.
That’s kinda my thought too, but I had a chat with Chris @ Bosch UK yesterday and he assures me it’s only 0.65kg difference. To be honest, I had a Cube Stereo Hybrid 160 on long term loan a couple of years ago, with a 625Wh battery on the Gen4 Bosch CX motor, and never used more than 60% of the battery on a single ride, and I have since been on an Orbea Rise with a 360Wh battery, so I’d ideally get a 500Wh battery if it was still available and try and dip under 20kg for a build… But I’ll just ride it when it comes, and see if the battery weight is an issue or not. I’m sure it won’t be too difficult to swap for a 625 at some point in the future if I wanted to.
The important bit, the actual ride, is superb. Absolutely love it so far. And it runs really quiet which is important to be, I can’t stand a bag of spanners!
Fantastic to hear! Mine will more than likely be even quieter, as I have an Onyx Racing rear hub to put on… 😁
If you had a 2yr old Rise M10 and could get rid of it and get onto a brand new Wild M10 for maybe £1k upcharge… Would you?
Not expecting fine detail, but I struggle to see how this is possible, unless you are getting new one at trade cost and somehow securing an above second hand value for the old one. I don’t know specs but I’d hazard a guess you might sell the old one for maybe 3k on a good day.
Here's mine. Got some silver chrome Slik graphics for the suspension and some Conti Argotals to go on.


Not expecting fine detail, but I struggle to see how this is possible
You don’t need to know how it’s possible. Just assume it is…
Got some silver chrome Slik graphics for the suspension
Looking stealth! 👌🏻 I like it…
Interestingly, or not, I did a couple of rides on one last week.
I stayed two nights with a mate who lives on the central coast, Oz, and I borrowed his wife’s.
full carbon jobbie with a 725 battery.
it was a large and I’m 5’8” but it fitted and felt great!
I really enjoyed it, the battery life is incredible, rode great but my ‘23 Levo carbon is better.
However, after two 30km hard rides the headset was creaking. Apparently their LBS had already fixed it and his bike too, they have matching bikes, but it was still creaking. I could not live with that, the headset routing is horrible.
I had a 2020 carbon Rail previously, twas brilliant, now I have a gen 3 carbon Levo with coil both ends and ‘23 Mondraker Chaser (aluminium , 625 removable battery and normal cable routing) at home.
I'd have any of those three over a bike with headset routing.
Hired an ally Trek Rail one day and a Scott Patron in Rotorua, NZ, this week. Both good, but again I felt the Rail was better despite poverty spec and the Scott had headset cables - sent a cold shiver down my spine and I thought of the poor person maintaining this bike!
I couldn’t do it, but we're all different!
As an aside, riding on the central coast was betterer than what I did in Rotorua.






I wonder how much of the creaking is down to the spin block thing? Mine is an XL so have removed it as no clash. I also pushed motofoam into the headtube to stop the cables rubbing on the steerer. The alloy cable guide part is a bit gash but with standard stem and spacers mine is silent so far and pretty much every ride, bar a couple of frozen ones, has been properly filthy and required a thorough wash
I also read that water can get in through the top tube controller and downtube (accessory?) plate openings so have sealed those with silicone as well
@Mintyjim - was very tempted by a Levo, very nearly bought one but ultimately my mates with Levos and Kenevos have had that many problems with motors and batteries that it put me off, even with the best warranty. I also have a mate who is a Bosch dealer.
Was also tempted by a Rail but the reports of rattling put me off and the geo of both older and newer versions didn't look quite right for me. Also think the Wild is much better looking. Not ridden one though.
Had a carbon and an alloy Crafty, loved them both but they aren't as nimble as the Wild IMO. Also had to install an angleset and the new ones have headset cabling and non-removable batteries so if buying new the Orbea is sorted geo wise out of the box. I'm also running a 240mm dropper which I couldn't do on the alloy Crafty
good choice , If i was looking for a full fat emtb then I'd be going for the wild fs.
I have the previous version (m team model) and its been great, I dont use it much these days as I prefer my trek fuel exe.
I've got my eye on a wild. Did throw my leg over one last year in a shop but never rode it. Being 6ft it was a large but felt a tad short.
Anyone ride a large at 6ft? Not sure I'd be better off on an XL
Just under 6'4" and XL with a 42mm stem, fits great. Have you had an EEB before? You can get away with going a bit smaller due to the stability from the weight and the assistance allowing a bit of compromise on weight distribution for climbing
@davosaurusrex my friends is an xl too and he’ll be swapping to a standard stem next
Great looking bikes and I love the Bosch motor, definitely my preferred system.
It did ride very well, I just prefer a mullet because I’ve got little legs.
The mondraker is my wife’s really, but really my back up for when my Levo eventually craps its motor or battery. Was looking at an angleset for it next but it’s perfect for her right now.
Anyone ride a large at 6ft?
Yeah, I did replace the dropper with a 200mm OneUp due to its low stack height though.
Being 6ft it was a large but felt a tad short.
I'm 5ft10, the Wild I'm picking up is a medium... Yes, it'll be short in the cockpit sat down, especially with the 77.5deg seat angle, but then so is an Enduro/MX motorbike. What matters is it feeling right when you're chucking it about. I can slide the saddle back on the rails a bit to effectively increase ETT length slightly, and will probably go up from 40 to 45 or even 50mm on the stem. But I don't want an overly long sled that I feel a passenger on. Most of the bikes I've had that I've felt most comfortable on have been around 460mm reach now or therabouts, the Wild in a medium is 455. I do have a relatively short torso and long leg for my height for what it's worth...
Another great ride on Sunday on the steep and loose trails round here, loving the Wild. @mboy - check the chainring lockring is tight when you get it. I had heard reports of them being loose from the factory but hadn't checked mine as was just about to change it. Was stamping on the pedals when it came off and I nearly got ejected, thought the chain had snapped at first. Managed to bodge it just tight enough with a multitool as a drift and a large lump of chalk hammer.
Put an XX1 T-type chainring on yesterday and found two things - the spider assembly clashes with the Orbea chainguide, also looks like you can't use a 104BCD chainring on a spider as that would clash. Also a Nukeproof ISCG05 chainguide (probably anything other than the Orbea one) won't fit due to the shape of the carbon moulding around the motor. That's why the top guide is longer than standard on the Orbea one, it mounts further forward than other types so has to extend backwards
Loving my Wild. 5'10", size large, 40mm stem.
Cheers @davosaurusrex that's useful info. I tend to dismantle most new bikes I own and rebuild anyway as a matter of course, but will likely be swapping some components over anyway on the new bike which would necessitate dropping the motor anyway. Not planning on swapping the chainring out (unless anybody knows of a 32T ring to fit?) but useful to now they can be loose from the factory.
Happy new bike day to me!

Just to change the tyres, get it wrapped, and get it ridden now! 👍🏻
Woo woo woo. Congratulations
Don’t like the look of any e-bikes really (transition repeater aside) but that is very nice 👌
Happy new bike day to me!
Blimey, that seatpost needs changing.
Why are you changing the tyres and to what?
Cranks are also known to fall off and/or bend if you look at them funny.
Got mine built up today! Test ride in the morning.
Looks ace! How did the test ride go…?
Blimey, that seatpost needs changing.
It will be, don’t worry. I might only be 5ft10 but got a 33” inside leg too, i’ve got a spare 170 drop waiting to go on, but thinking about getting a 200mm drop for it if I can fit one…
Why are you changing the tyres and to what?
Primarily because I work for the competition… But also because the Magic Mary front, Tacky Chan rear is an awesome combo.
Cranks are also known to fall off and/or bend if you look at them funny.
I know the Shimano EP8 version of the E13 cranks have been “problematic” to say the least, but haven’t seen any evidence of issues with the ISIS splined version that the Bosch system uses… I will keep an eye on them though.
Orbea owners groups on FB are full of bad feedback on the E13 cranks. I sold mine new for £40 or something and bought some Praxis EHD for 60, job done
Running a 240 OneUp on my XL, I can slam it with no issue. Would like a 270 dropper really though!
"Orbea owners groups on FB are full of bad feedback on the E13 cranks."
In what sense ? I've got E-13s on my Rise and they seem perfectly acceptable, but what does anyone want from a set of cranks ? They hold the pedals on, that's it.
Orbea owners groups on FB are full of bad feedback on the E13 cranks
Its only for the Shimano EP8 fitment cranks, not the ISIS ones on the Bosch motor…
In what sense ? I’ve got E-13s on my Rise and they seem perfectly acceptable, but what does anyone want from a set of cranks ? They hold the pedals on, that’s it.
That’s the problem… They regularly don’t! They’re known for working loose off the Shimano motor spindle and being made of a particularly soft cheese too… But again, only the Shimano motor fitment cranks seemingly.
Slightly worrying... checked mine the other day actually and seemed fine and happy.. But something to keep an eye on then it seems.
It's not, plenty on the Wilds too. They are also known to bend easily from pedal strikes
That’s the problem… They regularly don’t! They’re known for working loose off the Shimano motor spindle
Worse, there were cases of the motor spindle cracking. E13 blamed Shimano, Shimano blamed E13. Who wants to be caught up in that? I switched to Shimano from new just for peace of mind.
Link me up please R_B
Here is one report
https://www.bikeradar.com/news/shimano-ep8-motor-bottom-bracket-spindle-failure
a bit of googling will find you a load more though
Sorry, I meant to the good replacements. I don't know much about Eeb bits
Out of interest, what are the benefits of a non removable battery?
I should add for anyone reading this those cranks listed above ^ are for the EP8 motor in the first generation Rise. Not the current Rise and not the Wild, I have no idea about those
Looks ace! How did the test ride go…?
Brilliant! It's a monster truck of a bike.
Will keep an eye on the cranks, They seem fine so far but its only been out 3 times.
Out of interest, what are the benefits of a non removable battery?
Primarily a significantly improved stiffness to weight ratio… The current Carbon Wild is one of, if not the lightest, full fat eBike chassis’ on the market currently.
Link me up please R_B
Those are XTR level, shouldn’t have any problems with those… 👍🏻
on the old rise, my shimano motor spline cracked. e13 cranks. orbea stood over it....new motor supplied with shimano cranks.
