Yeah – a month for the warranty. Battery just stopped working and for whatever reason orbea only ship batteries overland and not by air.
Wow - coming from where, to take a month? If they have no batteries in Europe, that's pretty telling
I just assumed spain but now you mention it I dont know.
lead time is “about 3 weeks from acknowledging fault to delivery”. Plus a few days diagnostic and test to confirm at the outset followed by a few days at the end to fit it in and test its all working.
I actually really enjoyed it even if it did highlight just how lazy and unfit I’ve become from riding the e bike. Pretty shameful really as it always feels like I’m getting a really good work out on the Rise. I’m definitely not
You forget just how much you have to work without a battery!!
Two slightly concerning posts there... i know it comes up a lot in Ebike threads and i'm trying my hardest not to end up in the same place and losing any fitness i have/had. I think it just kinda sneaks up though, a few Eeb rides here, a few BPM less and less and next thing you've lost 20%.
Two slightly concerning posts there… i know it comes up a lot in Ebike threads and i’m trying my hardest not to end up in the same place and losing any fitness i have/had. I think it just kinda sneaks up though, a few Eeb rides here, a few BPM less and less and next thing you’ve lost 20%.
The thing is, it's always felt like I've been giving myself a good workout on the Rose. When I got it, I was fairly fit. More endurance that sprinting kind of fit. I prefer longer rides to flat out fast ones for an hour.
When I got it I was heavily reliant on the assistance and rode basically everywhere in trail (at 42nm). Everything else felt like waaay to much effort. The more I've ridden it, the less I feel dependant on the assistance. I always ride with it off for as much as possible and tend to keep it in eco (22nM) for the majority of the ride (usually 30+ miles and usually 1000' per 10 miles) Onlyi only really use Trail towards the end of steeper, sustained climbs and very occasionally Boost if I want a bit of overrun for clearing something technical or stupid steep.
Then, as the ride goes on and my legs get tired, I use more and more assistance.
I've felt like I was constantly improving and could ride further using less battery every time I went out. It really felt like I was keeping fit and seeing improvements.
Sundays jaunt around Surrey Hills on the hardtail showed me that while I've still got power in my legs, the rest of me can't keep up any more. I could tell just by the amount I was sweating and how heavy my breathing was that I was working far, far harder. Even though on the Rise, it feels like I'm working hard, it's not even close!
When (if) I get it back, I'm going to drop the power in Eco and Trail by a few nM to make life a bit more difficult for myself. I only really get to ride once a week but I'm going to split the days up between the Rise and the hardtail to try and keep a bit of fitness going.
H30. Coming up to two years.
-Brakes are terrible- replaced with 4 pot
-Fork is cheap, but just put up with it and took some air out
-put some invisiframe over the power button to protect it from water.
Apart from the fault less lovely nearly 2 years of joyous cycling. Have loved it. If you can afford it, or can get it on C2W then recommend it highly
If anyone is looking for a Speedbox I've put one up for sale on here. I won't need it
Latest experiences
got my new charger and battery under warranty. All good there.
got the new linkage under warranty and fitted by bike shop….all still sh1te there 🤬🤬
Linkage bolts came lose after 10mls.
75 miles and bearings creaking like mad. Stripped it down to find frame bearing grinding on the drive side. Despite the seals the bearing was full of brown crud. Cleaned and relubed and smooth but not yet ridden because…and put the besring seals on THE CORRECT way round as they were back to front.
whilst its was stripped i found one of the new shock yoke bearings also grinding. Seals are so small and being double row I need to pop this out and will most likely just replace.
i also found the yoke bearings have been installed the wrong way round. According to new blue prints the protruding inner bearing race should face outwards but mine were facing inwards. Probably means the bolts wont seal yhe bearings as well as they should.
and whilst it was strip I also found the end of the bolts that fix the seat stays onto the home looked might knackered. Almkst lime cross threaded and non-drive side seemed to have the final portion of thread missing!
seriously p’d off and just had to order a load of new bits for it.
should i take it back, probably but it’d be off the trails for another 6 weeks vs. 2-3 for parts from orbea and DIY and I know it’ll be done right.
🤬🤬🤬🤬
A lot of that sounds like the person fitting the parts perhaps didn't quite do it right.
I know the linkage bolts are very soft and it's easy to damage the threads trying to force them into alignment (learned the hard way). There's a certain order to connect the linkage up that minimises the chance of ballsing it up.
I'd say you should speak to the shop, I do t see that you should be having to pay out for new parts that they've (seemingly) damaged or fitted incorrectly.
The seals you mention, are those the external things that sit between the rocker link and the upper pivot bearing? I know they were introduced on the carbon frame last year and wondered if they were worth adding.
The seals are external do sit between the rocker and bearings. From the blue print they’re directional and probably do offer slightly more protection from the elements. But given our swampish environment ATM they seem to have made naff all difference.
Well maybe I was a little harsh about the bike shop & bearings.
orbea blueprints are a little misleading! DR10177 bearings are none existent. Could only find 1017 bearings in UK so ordered from orbea.
Seems like No difference between 1017 and 10177 bearings! And where the blue prints imply the inner lip is inly on one side of the bearing its actually on both sides so the bearing is NOT uni directional as the blue prints imply.
hats off the bearing pro tools too. Their press and drifts are superb. Postage really quick and helpfulness top notch.
New bearings in. Hardwear to fit tomorrow then its back and running. For a couple of rides at least…then I’ll be doing it all again no doubt!! 🤬🤬🤬
DR10177 are real. And the same.
DR10177 are real.
whats the difference? I ordered some 1017 from UK a d the 10177 from orbea. Writing on the seal is too small for my aging eyes but i cant see any real world difference! Dimensions are the same.
This website is so broken.
Which UK bearings did you get? Both should have inside and outsides seals, I expect. Different colour each side?
Website is so slow! Just seen your amendment.
i got the DR 1017 2RS from Kinetic Bearings. Air Velo sells DR 10177 2Rs but they’re the only place with 10177’s listed and piccy has black seals. whereas everywhere else lists 1017 and shows red seals which is whats in the bike and what orbea sent.
red seals both sides and visually identical. Unless its something to do with the race inside i think as you say, both are real and both are the same!
just seriously annoying that they’re the smallest bearing on the bike and twice the price of all the others! Hope they last longer than main pivot and linkage bearings.
Orbea currently teasing an update to the Rise - any of you "users" know anything about that ?
In terms of geometry I'd guess it will mirror the new Occam - probably the LT - so 160/150 travel. Slightly slacker geo. Headset cable routing (ugh)
It will still be the Shimano motor and I don't think there are any announced upgrades to that.
My dealer said it will mirror the Occam in geometry (so choice of trail or LT versions). Supposedly getting slightly bigger battery and full 85 NM power from the motor but still coming in a lower weights than previous similar numbered models. Shots released by mistake showed it to also have the lower BB diagonal brace of the Occam/Wild. Also confirmed headset routing which is a major turn off for me and many others I reckon.
Also hope they've put the on/off button in a more sensible place 🙄all their marketing bull about extensive lab testing and they've missed the obvious 😔
On / off button is on the Shimano remote no?
I’m genuinely interested in the cable thing. I’ve got it on my Wild and Occam LT. The only thing that is harder is changing the brakes over from UK to EU the first time, (after that you leave some extra length so you don’t have to change the sides of the cable exit). After that most things are easier. Changing an outer is much, much easier since you only need it to poke out through the head tube, rather that the horrible old system of finding the hole in the side tube. Also it’s so much quieter without cables rattling. I’m sure there are genuine reasons people hate them but I personally don’t see it.
There is some info about the new bike on the mailing list. New Rise?
Edit: just clicked and you need to sign up to see.
hi Doug (Simon S - see you in a week or so). I've not got a headset routed bike but internal routing is shit for everything except aesthetics. Pretty much every job is longer (ie more expensive if you're paying someone) and more faff. Changing the inner cable on a road bike this week took two of us with Katie lying on the floor under the bike with a pair of tweezers. Fully routed internals (like my Mega and I think most Spec now) are a bit different - anything else is objectively worse than external.
Removing the dropper on the Rise requires dropping the motor. The loops over the motor to get to the main pivot bearing make that job difficult.
Headset routing (as I understand it) means replacing a headset bearing requires disconnecting all your cables (time/hassle/workshop labour). There are videos online showing serious scoring of carbon steerers on Road bikes from the split race (or spacer) needed by headset routed cables.
I've no issues with the original power button position on the Rise. It's close to the motor so short run!
Basically internal routing looks good in photos and catalogues and everyone needs to do it or their bikes won't looks as slick. But anyone who works on a bike hates it and it's bad for customers as it makes simple jobs expensive.
As internally routed bikes get older, or lower end models get fitted with internal cabling, there are going to be loads of bikes that aren't economic to repair because of the labour cost of dealing with internal routing. That's not good for customers or the bike industry.
Not many years ago you could fit a new, pre-bled, rear brake to a bike in a car park if you needed to (accepting a big loop of hose out front). I think on my old Nicolai I needed to remove the shock briefly (two bolts).
How long does that take on a Rise or a Rallon? (rant over - nothing against Orbea specifically)
But here you are talking about internal routing. Totally agree, it's a PITA for many things. What I'm questioning are the "Headset Routing" rants. I think that Headset Routing actually gets rid of, or minimises, some of the pains of internal routing by giving more space to fish the cables. External routing is definitely simpler but has it's own issues... it's also not something I see very often anymore. The steerer scoring I've heard people saying, but I have never seen it on any of our bikes and we ride a lot!
And for a non-internally routed dropper... who would go back to the external cables for the dropper? We saw so many of those damaged on our trips back in the day. Even with fully-routed internal cables, the dropper is a PITA because of the forced curves, especially with the motors and batteries on emtbs.
Headset bearing is true. Usually only the upper, change requires disconnecting all the cables. I'd estimate that job would take me two to three times as long as with non-headset routing. The stainless steel upper bearings on my bikes means that I hopefully won't have to do it though.
I was just genuinely curious about the hate for headset routing. Internally routing I can understand, but when I see people on pinkbike complaining about headset routing but saying nothing about internally routed it makes me wonder.
Fitting a brake? I would remove caliper and lever from the hose, fit new ones, and bleed. I'd be riding again in 15 minutes. (Done it loads!) If the cable was damaged it would take longer. On my Occam and Rise I think that it is fully routed front to rear, in theory I should be able to push the hose through from back to front, drop the fork a bit and pass it through. I only have to get it to the headtube and it's easy to reach. I´d definitely do that on my Occam, but probably wouldn't try with the Rise at the trailhead, I'd just ziptie a brake on the outside of the bike until I got to the garage.
But my question is, how long would it take with a standard "out the side" internal routing? AGES! I have done it a couple of times, using the correct parktool magnetic routing kit, and it is a nightmare.
Internal routing is a doddle with the right kit. I uses to dread it but now wouldnt be phased at all by it.
Built up my Dolan Commuter expecting internal routing to be a PITA. But bought a magneic kit off Amazon for less than £10 It actually took less than 10mins to route cables and hoses. Was amazed how simple it actual was . However, had i tried to do it without the kit theres no way i’ have been able to do it.
internal routing isn’t going to render old bikes obsolete. Plenty of other things like 26” wheels or rim brakes will do that way before internal routing does.
what i do wonder about internal headset routing is damage if its not done right. I’ve seen bodged internal routing cut theough a cank axle as the outer was resting on whilst axle was spinning.
The Rise is a pig though as the cables outers are trapped under little carbon ‘hoops’ in the downtube, so nothing slides through easily. I got the dropper cable out by tugging and wiggling, but feeding new brake lines through required a motor drop and battery removal.
You’re not dropping your motor with your Dolan though, are you? Or having to bleed the brakes.
nope to the motor but yep to the brakes. Discs both ends. And stupidly small routing holes too
New one is apparently a full power Bosch motor with ~625wH battery and 10mm extra travel either end.
So basically, a completely different bike.
The reduced power RS thing was one of the main reason I bought mine so a new one isntall that appealing to me but I'll bet that sort of thing is going to be pretty popular.
On the cable thing, I'd give anything for external routing. Need to bleed your brakes? Easy, just take the whole lot off. Need anew dropper cable? Easy, w minutes work. Internal does look better but it's so much worse,
First issue that i've had, a knackered charger. Sent it back to the shop and hopefully they're going to ship me out a new one, got ~70% battery left so going to play bettery roulette out with the lads this week!
Don't suppose anyone in South Manchester has a 2022 charger I could borrow for an hour or two 😀
bensFree Member
New one is apparently a full power Bosch motor with ~625wH battery and 10mm extra travel either end.So basically, a completely different bike.
That pretty much describes the Wild
I'd say the lower powered Bosch motor is more likely
Yeah, I did think that the lower power (SX?) would make more sense.
Some bloke I don't know told me all about the new one because his mates cousins brother works in shop that once sold something that looked like an Orbea. Something along those line anyway.
He was sure it was full power 😂
The reduced power RS thing
Is just in the software. Full power Shimano motor “turned down” is why the Rise works so well. You could do this with any bike with a full fat motor but smaller capacity battery.
@Scaled
"Don’t suppose anyone in South Manchester has a 2022 charger I could borrow for an hour or two"
Not S Manchester but a bit further afield (nr Whaley Bridge) if you're desperate?
Si
@scc999 thanks mate, if a new one doesn't turn up next week I might take you up on the offer. They're just too much fun to have em out of commission for too long.
That and the fact the only other (mountain) bike in the house is my large Rallon, and that has been stolen by my lanky 13 year old!
Full report on the new Rise.
Options look sorted.
Sborter seat tube at last, the old one was 508 or so in XL.
Yeah, looks like they've addressed some of the annoying things about the old one. Seat tube length and a lack of stiffness in the frame being my main problems.
Be interesting to see the weight of the lower spec models.
Not a fan of the frame brace on the 2025 model, will stick with my gen 1 with mullet set up and longer travel front and rear. Just need to get the badger to power up!
Just had an email from Leisure Lakes about the new Rise. Cheapest one seems to be £7200!
That’s another one off the ‘affordable’ list 😳
Carbon ones weee always a bit pricier, alu ones notbout tet
I'm with @hugoagogo
That frame brace is minging 😳is it there for a structural reason ? Makes keeping mine minus the brace and headset routed cables a no brainer 👍
@oldfart RobrideseMTB quotes the brace as increasing stiffness 22%. So probably removing 1mm of flex to make getting the bottle out a faff. Made me chuckle that Spesh left the brace off the newer Levo SLs and Orbea have added one in! 😆
Cheapest one seems to be £7200!
That’s another one off the ‘affordable’ list 😳
Yep it’s crazy. No one in the bike industry appears to realise bikes are stupidly expensive, maybe they all get paid too much ? Rob Rides called an £8.5k bike vfm/cheap. Wtf
They are getting heavier too which I find odd. The larger battery size is only just lighter than their full fat bike
An ‘affordable’ one is going to weigh more than there full fat Wild offering or very similar
Is more power also what’s needed on a light emtb ? My view on wanting a light emtb is that I still have to work a bit, but at least I can lift the bloody thing up over rocks / stiles etc.
Got to be sub 20kg for me
Its addressed some of the issues of the old Rise except for keeping the Shitmano motor
They'll be discounted soon enough, give it 6 months.
Rob Rides called an £8.5k bike vfm/cheap. Wtf
He is a bit out of touch with many peoples reality, and also makes a living from promoting ebikes, so hardly likely to be an impartial voice.
@johnnystorm so in other words marketing mumbo jumbo 🙄good job all that time in their Lab wasn't wasted 🙄
If the brace means that the seat tube is shorter and you can fit a longer dropper than I'm all for it.
I'm on a medium alloy frame and managed to fit a 180mm OneUp dropper. It's technically too long for the frame according to the blue paper and i can see why. The wiring for the charge socket is in the way. It still went in but it's not ideal.
With the 180 post, I've got probably 3 inches of post showing to get the right height for pedalling. Theoretically, I should be able to get a 210 post in but there isn't enough clearance so I'm stuck with a compromise.
I dislike compromise on a bike that cost £5k 😂
Sounds like the new one has added that brace but at the same time shortened the seat tube and kept the 'lectrics out the way for a decent seatpost insertion which i think is good.
The article up there only discusses the Ltd, M Team and M10 but other sites are suggesting there's a M20 version waiting in the wings with SLX level kit so there is a cheap(er) version. Also, the alloy version should be cheaper still at the expense of some weight.
I guess on price, it's Levo SL money and you can bet the Levo will be far lighter than the alloy rise.
I actually quite like the sound of the smaller battery version. 400ish wH battery and limited to 54nM in the RS profile would probably be perfect for 90% of my rides.
It looks like they've added proper sealing to the bearings too which is a definite plus. I won't be queuing up to swap my 22 model with a new one but I kinda like what they've done with it.
Bikes are crazy expensive. But people keep wanting the latest stuff! The cost of a suspension fork is amazing.
Having ridden the new one, the stiffness is instantly noticeable. The brace also lets them tune the stiffness for each size, probably an industry first, which means smaller people aren’t riding too stiff bikes and larger people aren’t on more flexible ones.
lots of people will go for the 420wh battery, it has decent range, and if they want add a range extender for longer rides. I’m heavier so prefer the bigger battery.
The new bike is the same weight as the old one. Mine is high 18kgs with DD rear and EXO+ front with the bigger battery. There is always going to be a decent separation in weight between Rise and a similarly priced Wild.
It definitely narrows the gap to the Wild tbough, not sure why you'd want the big battery version over the Wild with a better motor
It definitely narrows the gap. It always seems to do that with each launch, trail bikes get more capable and then the enduro bikes do the same!
Ive been riding them both back to back a lot. They are different beasts. And I don’t agree that Bosch is the best motor any more, last year I’d have agreed but the new tune on the Rise feels really natural, it suits the bike really well. The Bosch is more intrusive, it’s obviously there and pushing all the time. Which can be good if that is what you want!
Downhill the bikes are totally, totally different. Rise is more agile and playful. Wild is more about speed. It’s the difference between a very capable trail bike and a full on enduro bike. There is a reason there is a Wild competing at Fort William this weekend and not the Rise.
I think Rise LT is my bike. Big days on the mountains and fun on local enduro trails. But I’ll miss having a Wild, those days trying to push harder on the local DH tracks.
Yeah, obviously not eidsen the new Rise, but the Wild is prettty sleek and light for a full fat bike. As to Shimano over Bosch, its more the relia ility/serviceability side I'd be foxused on. I wouldnt buy aShimano bike.
So still waiting to see some real reviews ie not just people invited to the Orbea launch or in bed with Orbea
I Like the idea of the M10 LT with bigger battery but can’t see it being less than 20.5kg given I’ve read the weight of the Ltd is 19.5kg.
Has anyone seen real world weights published yet, Orbea appear keen for people not to share the weights
I have the current Rise and while I do not need longer travel than it has anymore, I would like a lighter coil shock - only because I prefer the way coil shocks ride.
Just had the dealer confirm my gen 1 Rise battery failure, it's taken 6 weeks to get a diagnosis and will be a further 2 - 3 weeks until the replacement turns up. Despite the bike being out of warranty i'm a bit disappointed (understatement)/ surprised there was no support offered. My expectations clearly need recalibrating, afterall it was only a £7k bike that hasn't had that much use, original owner etc... I'm not surprised at the failure, I've been waiting for something expensive to happen, I just thought the treatment might be more supportive instead of the not so comforting "tough luck mate, that'll be £528".
Was intending to upgrade to a Wild but don't feel like giving Orbea any more money after that. I doubt it will be much different from another manufacturer...
This ^ is why I planned to sell mine when it came out of warranty. The second hand market tanked pretty hard though and the bike isn't worth much now (relatively speaking). I figured I'd keep the bike and hope for the best. I'd lose more selling it now than I would having to pay out for a battery or a motor.
It's pretty poor that a £5k (£7k...£10k...) bike is only designed to last 2 years.
I was considering a Specialized as a replacement but it looks like they're down to 2 years warranty now.
@hugoagogo - that is a bit disappointing.
The Shimano (e8000) motor started playing up on my GF's Merida eOneSixty recently (slipping internally under load) - 3 years old so well out of warranty. The (mail order) dealer was helpful in liaising with Madison/Shimano - we were bracing for the full £1K cost or maybe 50% if lucky but Shimano gave 100% assistance so FOC.
It seems stange they won't publicise any guarantee of a 50% discount for new motor cost outside warranty when you purchase the bike. Seems to be a lottery whether you get a 1000, 500, or 0 bill when the motor breaks.
@vmgscot - it's left a sour taste, dealer says Shimano/ Madison don't want to know as its a battery issue, not the motor, and Orbea aren't prepared to do anything. I was braced for spending but feel a bit let down that there's no reduction on the battery given the experience of others with a first failure on an eeb and a battery should last longer than 2.5 years. Certainly won't be recommending Orbea to anyone in a hurry.
does sound very poor. As a contrast, I needed to get the motor replaced in my Spesh Levo SL last summer, a few months outside the 2 yr warranty. Local dealer bent over backwards to help, and the replacement was discounted buy about 40% by Spesh. From first speaking to them to motor being fitted and bike back with me was about a week.
LBS has got a 2022 M20 Rise with the Shimano EP8 RS 360Wh battery in at a decent price which I’m going to have a look at this week. Never had an Ebike before but these really appeal to me, so I was wondering what sort of mileage/ time will I get out of the battery. I’m 60kg and it’s mostly going to be NY Moors / Dales riding if that make any difference. Tia
At 60 kilos you'll be getting very good range compared to most. It's the biggest factor!
That’s good to hear! Sometimes being a little un has its advantages!
I got ~20 miles and 2500 feet just from the range extender on a couple of ride recently
Range extender is ~250wH. My Rise is the Alloy frame and just over 20kg.
Having ridden mine for a couple of years I reckon I could easily have gone for the smaller battery. Most of my rides are around 30 miles with somewhere between 3 and 4k feet of climbing. I'll often finish with +50% of the 540wH battery. I'll be tried at the end of the ride.
One thing I have noticed is that rides where there's sustained climbing, say in Wales for example, I'll use the battery quicker (and use more battery) than somewhere uppy downy like Surrey Hills. 3k feet of climbing in say, 15 climbs is a lot easier on the bike (and my legs) than doing 3k in 5 climbs.
Where I managed to get 2.5k from the range extender recently, equally I've killed the whole extender in about 6 miles climbing sustained steep stuff. The longer the climb goes on, the more tired your legs get and the more you rely on the assistance to get you up.
I'd say if you're fairly fit and you're aiming for 3k(ish) on a ride then the 320wH will probably be fine and, it'll keep you fit. You can always get a range extender for bigger rides. If you're aiming for 5k rides then maybe you'd want the bigger battery.
Once you've added the extender to the carbon frame, you're basically at the same weight as the alloy so may as well get the alloy frame.
Also I guess it depends who you ride with. If you're trying to keep up with full power bikes with mega capacity batteries then you'll have no chance.
I mostly ride on my own and I'm happy bimbling along up the climbs at whatever pace I feel like which I think helps with the range. If I power around in boost, I can pretty much kill the 540wH battery in 20 miles/3000'.
Riding at my normal pace would leave me with at least 50% of the battery on the same route.
Other factors that affect range are things like wheels and tyres. Lighter wheels and fast tyres get you better range. If you're riding terrain that warrants the use of insertd and heavy tyres then the range will suffer.
It would have to be seriously cheap for me to consider the 1st gen. The 2nd gen carbon has some decent upgrades such as better charging port and 540WHr battery, and there have been some great deals on these. The 3rd gen is even better but significantly higher cost.
Thanks for the detailed answer Bens, very comprehensive. I’ll probably be riding mostly by myself so it will be a nice steady pace. Think I will see how it goes and maybe invest in a range extender at a later date if I need one for bigger days out
I shall have a look at the 2nd gen carbon when I call in this week.
Anyone running 160mm forks on their gen1/2 Rise? Mine came with a Marzocchi Z2 as standard, and it's absolutely rank - like having a pogo stick on the front. Looking around at deals, I can get a Lyrik at a decent price, but it's 160mm travel, rather than the 150mm I was looking for.
Yeah I run a 160mm Lyrik Ultimate on mine with a Slacker headset.
Doesn’t climb quite as well but it’s better coming down.
I ran my Mezzer at 160 for a while and didn't really get on with it.
I've always found the front end to be a bit low which was unnerving on steep, slow techy stuff so figured a bit more travel would help. It didn't really. The front was too light on steep or techy climbs and I didn't really notice much difference on the downs so went back to 150.
I'd like to try what Phil5556 has done and fit an angleset. I think slacker plus 160 might work better. Thought about offset shock bushes but pedal strikes are already troublesome and I keep clputing the motor on things so don't want to drop the 'BB' any lower
Yeah, obviously not eidsen the new Rise, but the Wild is prettty sleek and light for a full fat bike. As to Shimano over Bosch, its more the relia ility/serviceability side I’d be foxused on. I wouldnt buy aShimano bike.
Yep it’s crazy. No one in the bike industry appears to realise bikes are stupidly expensive, maybe they all get paid too much ? Rob Rides called an £8.5k bike vfm/cheap. Wtf
They are getting heavier too which I find odd. The larger battery size is only just lighter than their full fat bike
An ‘affordable’ one is going to weigh more than there full fat Wild offering or very similar
I had the opportunity recently to change (I won't say upgrade as it's very subjective) from my old Rise to a new Wild for a minimal amount of money in the grand scheme of things, and I don't regret my decision... Yes, I still preferred the feel of the Shimano motor, but the Wild is only 10% heavier, is much stiffer, handles better, is far more confidence inspiring on the descents, still as much fun to ride and it's got more than twice the battery power and range...I am all for lightweight eMTB's, but they really need to be a LOT lighter and offer signficant benefits vs a full fat, otherwise you might as well just get a decent full fat bike and take advantage of the extra capacity etc...
I ran 160mm Fox 36. Worked perfectly well.
