Orbea Rise carbon v aluminium

Have a look here https://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/orbea-rise-real-world-experience/page/4/#post-12815863

I’ve got the Aluminium and my wife’s got the Carbon, not very good at keeping track of what battery we’ve used after a ride. She rides in boost with the range extender quite a lot and as long as we’re not doing more than 35km / 1000m doesn’t even think about running out.

One of my 35km / 1000m rides used 56% according to my Garmin and she had less than 20% left WITHOUT the extender.

Hers does feel lighter when I’m moving it around but with the extender attached I doubt there’s much in it.

The current year you can have a bigger battery in the Carbon one too.

Cheers Phil I’ll pass on the info

I can’t comment on difference but M20 and 360wh battery here. I also gauge range by ascent rather than distance as most of my riding is 200-300m climbs then descent (and repeat). And it’s more the climbs that hit the battery.

Mainly use ECO, trail or boost only very occasionally. Happy to use low gears and put effort in
Ie I’ll be in big 50t cassette cog in steeper climbs same as on normal bike.

Anyway 1500m/5000ft of ascent over a ride consistently before battery depleted. For me that’s plenty enough for say 3 hours shuttling up trails. I’m no lightweight either. C15st.

Clearly if you want do more, or use boost more, you’d want more than 360wh IMO.

Thanks, more good info. You’re right, he’ll be getting the bike so we can do some big rides in the peak and lakes so good to gauge how much climbing you can do.

He’s also looking at the range extender to give a bit more battery and only reason he’s looking at the carbon is due to better components.

It’s a nice decision to have so I’m sure he’ll be happy with either.

Just back from riding up Snowdon. 20km, 1100m climbing and I’m back with 44% of my 540 battery. Boost in Profile 2 the whole way with no effort to save the battery.

If I use profile 1 and stick to Trail I’m petty sure it’ll go on forever, I have been annoyed that I’ve got back from rides with over 50% battery left, I could’ve given myself a much easier time 😤

I think the 'light' ebikes only really suit people who are either lightweight, fit/strong or don't climb much.

If your pal fits the above criteria then get the carbon one.

The only components that really matter on an ebike IMO are the tyres, shock and fork. No real need to save a few hundred grams when you've got lots of torque and battery life.

If I was looking at an ebike, I'd be looking at Deore type gears, no need for anything more fancy.

I think the ‘light’ ebikes only really suit people who are either lightweight, fit/strong or don’t climb much.

Or people who are weak and might have to lift their bike over a fence, into a car etc. I can just about manage to manhandle my carbon Rise, I would need help with a heavy bike. The difference may not be enormous, but for me it makes the difference.

@greyspoke fair point, I'd not thought the extra ~5kg to be much of a difference but I stand corrected.

I’d not thought the extra ~5kg to be much of a difference but I stand corrected.

I guess mine’s a “heavy light e-bike” at somewhere over 20kg, I wouldn’t want anything heavier out of choice. Occasionally riding it I notice it’s weight as it can take a lot to slow it down, but I definitely notice its weight moving it around & lifting it.

I have a H15 and usually ride with non-ebike mates so stick to low power settings unless trying to clear an awkward climb where the others walk. I have never run out my battery while riding like this with mates and often think I should have gone for the carbon and smaller battery and just bought a range extender. I was going to buy one for the alloy bike when I bought it but I have yet to have done a ride where I would have used it! However, I have recently ridden with a group of full fatters and on one ride got back with 1% battery and the other with 5%. They all had over 20% remaining. We di do 32 km and over 1200m of climbing at full chat mind! In comparison I rode 32km and 1200m of climbing in Dyfi with non-ebikers on Saturday and still had 42% battery. It was a tough and hot day on the bike but was relatively easy for me compared to the others!

The only components that really matter on an ebike IMO are the tyres, shock and fork.

Given the greater mass of an e-bike I’d want decent stoppers too.

Thanks all.
The Rise sounds like a great bike.
I've passed on the info to my friend so hopefully he'll make a choice this week.

What about the. forestal as a curve ball
Very light well kitted out lovely bikes

Thanks hainman will get him to look at those also.

as @didnthurt says, dont go expensive drivetrain, my friend just broke his chainring/crank on that new SRAM indestructable one :0)

What about the. forestal as a curve ball

Make sure whoever you buy it off has a test bike or two you can borrow when it breaks down.

My mate has been through three motors and a wiring loom already and the bike is less than six months old.

The 360 is going to do 2/3 the range of the 540.

The carbon frame saves a kilo maybe?
1kg will not noticeably affect range.

H30 owner btw. I get 50km and over 1200m of climbing and come home with 40-50% remaining (mainly using customised Eco setting). On the other hand, I can easily drain the 540wh battery in 25km and <1000m if using Boost the whole time.

I bought a range extender for super-long days, but it kills the handling. The extra weight is very noticeable. Probably exacerbated owing to its higher mounting position.

I bought a range extender for super-long days, but it kills the handling. The extra weight is very noticeable. Probably exacerbated owing to its higher mounting position.

You notice a 1kg in the frame vs the 80kg's sat on top?

As for the original question, bigger battery & extender and you can spend the +£1k saved by buying the alloy on nicer bits.

The carbon frame saves a kilo maybe?

Really ?? I would imagine a few grammes, but its impossible to find weights of frame only... probably because there is little in it.

I cant see frame material makes that much difference on a bike where you have suspension travel and tyres that all impact on ride feel, maybe on a rigid road bike but not a big springy mtb.

Whats your budget OP, that determines the answer

What about the. forestal as a curve ball
Very light well kitted out lovely bikes

And twice the price of an Orbea Rise

The budget is around the orbea price so upto 5k I guess. The Forestal looks nice but out of budget.

Really ?? I would imagine a few grammes, but its impossible to find weights of frame only… probably because there is little in it.

The weight saving is in the fact that the carbon framed bike has a smaller battery. It’s just over a kilo lighter (1.2kg rings a bell) as a complete bike. I’m sure I read 300g lighter somewhere for frame only?

This is all assuming 2022 models as the current one has the bigger battery option in carbon too.

The missus has just got a lovely m10....

Nirvana cycles in the surrey hills have an alu 500wh + extender to test if ur down south

I went through the same dilemma - carbon or alu.

I think your friend needs to figure out what it's going to be used for. If they live somewhere where the local riding warrants a ebike then going for the M makes sense. If I lived somewhere hilly and wanted to be be able to have a decent ride after work or whatever then the M would be ideal. You can always add the extender for longer rides.

For me, local riding doesn't warrant an ebike. At all. My reasoning for wanting one was to do big rides that I wouldn't have the legs otherwise.

In my head, having the smaller battery in the carbon frame but always riding with the extender seemed pointless so I went with the H. I don't regret it but I do think I could probably have still managed with the smaller battery and lighter bike.

Looking at a couple of rides in the Peak District last year, 32 miles with 3500' and I finished with 20% battery left. My legs were knackered though. The following week was 25 miles with 4800' and I finished with 10%. Probably 20% eco/ 80% trail.

I ride it like a normal MTB. I use the full range on the cassette and only up the power from the motor when run out of oomph from my legs.

It's set at 22nM for eco. 42nM for trail and 60nM for Boost.

Surrey hills rides are usually 20-30 miles with anywhere between 2000-4000' of climbing. It's not unusual to finish with 40% battery left, even using boost for the last few miles back to the car.

How much work your friend is able or willing to put in needs to be considered too. A fit rider that enjoys climbing is going to get much better range from the battery than someone who wants maximum assistance getting up a hill.

He's still fairly fit, we go out every week on the hardtails around Rivington and Darwen and he has a Capra for trail centres.
It's his 60th coming up in a month or two so think he's going to treat himself.
It's either Leisure Lakes at Bury or mtbmonster near Blackburn as they're local dealers that sell orbea.
Thanks for the replies, I'll pass on all the info 👍