Opinions on where t...
 

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[Closed] Opinions on where to start road racing

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I am looking to start road racing this summer (in the southwest of England)

The thing I am unsure of is which bike to race, whether I bite the bullet, insure my good bike and race on that (as I always intended to) or if I race on the winter bike (based on the high crash risk)

If the first option, has anyone got recommendations for insurance providers?

Thank you


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 11:24 am
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A lot of the talk of crashes is over rated. While I saw plenty last year most were minor and the rider and bike got away relatively unscathed. Bike destroying crashes were relatively rare. I know of one in about 10 race with around 60 participants in each.

It also depends on the race. Some crits around here have a bad rep. Either due to the nature of the course or the fact they attract 60+ 4th Cats. The faster 3/4 and 2/3/4 races, especially after the first couple are normally much more controlled and safe affairs.

For what it is worth in the NE the road race season opens on Sunday and most of the classic races are over by June. You may need to act fast if you are to get any racing in.


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 12:01 pm
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Ask the guys in your club


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 12:03 pm
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Never heard of anyone insuring their bike for damage whilst racing. doesn't mean you can't get it though.


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 12:06 pm
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IMO, especially in cat 3/4 events, the bike doesn't matter that much, so i'd use a cheaper bike just in case. It's more about technique, reading the race, knowing when to sprint and how to position yourself in the bunch and so on. I've seen a fair few crashes and I only did a few races. The worst was a cat 3 race at Longcross near Cobham which must have snapped half a dozen carbon race bikes.

I think there is now a training requirement for the Surrey League races?

I'm not sure you can insure a bike against race damage, and even if you could I can't imagine it's that cost effective?


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 12:07 pm
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I'd not race what I can't afford to replace.

Though if you do go down and it gets damaged most likely it'll be scuffs and scratches, maybe a broken component or two. It's very unlikely to be a write off.

Having said that...

The worst was a cat 3 race at Longcross near Cobham which must have snapped half a dozen carbon race bikes.

😯

Edit...

This post from [url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/dark-side-racing-frameset#post-6748219 ]this thread[/url] sums it up...

Rorschach - Member
Something you don't mind dropping. I raced on a TCR Adv sl and was petrified of crashing it as it cost every penny I had.in those 50/50 situations you get in crit (especially lower cat)I I'd back off especially in the last lap scrimmage and get nowhere despite having the legs. Bought a px rt57 for£300 whilst waiting for my new Canondale evo to arrive and suddenly no gap was too small and every corner was flat out and pedal scraping on the floor. Suddenly I was in the right place with less effort and got results (including at a closed town centre crit!). Cancelled the evo!
Caad10,willbe be ideal.


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 12:16 pm
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I'd not race what I can't afford to replace.

Definitely this, you want something that rides nicely that you don't care if it gets a few knocks, that's the trouble with owning a best superbike, it's too dear to chuck it in the scenery.

Early season 4th cat races can be a bit of a crash fest depending on the circuit, main advice is have enough in your legs so you can keep to the front and out of trouble, not on the front that just takes too much effort.

As for races check british cycling or TLI, and if you are a vet there is always the LVRC events.


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 1:46 pm
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keep to the front and out of trouble

Now imagine everyone else having the same plan 😀


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 1:53 pm
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Now imagine everyone else having the same plan

I know that, but it's amazing how many people think they can slide to the back of the bunch for a rest, and then wonder when it kicks again they get spat out the back, waiting for that piece of invisible elastic to snap, you know the one where you think you can get back on, but just can't quite get across the gap.


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 1:58 pm
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Dont race what you cant replace rings very true...

However, you bought your nice bike to ride and race so just use it!!!
Ive been racing the summer bike in the winter and using the training bike just to train.

You can get Accident insurance that covers you for racing, but its not something that is included within any of the BC insurances given with a race license.


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 1:58 pm
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I ride my best bike, only had one crash which lightly scuffed the shifter lever and bent the mech hanger. I brought it to be ridden so a few marks don't really bother me but I know some other riders who would be upset by the smallest scuff so I guess it depends on your attitude.

I think you'd have to pretty unlucky to write a bike off completely but I have seen a snapped frame at Hillingdon in the cat above mine so it does happen.

Personally I'd be more worried about seriously injuring myself and not being able to work than about damaging the bike.


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 2:16 pm
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Strava?


 
Posted : 06/03/2015 2:25 pm
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Crashes do happen

but like mauja says , sometimes people get damaged.


 
Posted : 14/03/2015 7:50 pm
 Haze
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Raced my R3, rude not to!

Cost less than a tenner to add race cover on the premium.


 
Posted : 14/03/2015 7:59 pm
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British Cycling bike insurance can be extended to include racing. A clubmate has claimed on it after a crash.

I'd recommend buying a good used alloy bike to start racing. An older TCR or newer CAAD8. Wheels will make a difference, Ksyrium Elites are more than enough. I bought a used TCR for £400 of Ebay as I didn't want to race my nice bike (which was sunsequently stolen). It was all the bike I needed for my first two seasons. An upgraded CAAD8 or CAAD10 would still be fine for me now, even though I've improved! 😳

I think there is now a training requirement for the Surrey League races?

Surrey League require compulsory attendance at two four-hour sessions fr accreditation. You will then be eligible to race 4th Cat races. There are no races on the roads for 4th Cats this year (previously the handicap races were open to 4th Cats). I coach the course at Cyclopark. drop me a line if you want more information.

Other series have no such requirements, but that notwithstanding, I'd still recommend attending a Novice/4th Cat training session - even if you have raced before.


 
Posted : 14/03/2015 9:57 pm
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Try crit races short 1 hour affirs but punchy. Road racing is a diferent game altogether. I personally don't crit racing and road race but traffic and road conditions pose extra hazzards which you need to be aware of and anticapte along with being able to react appropraitely to other riders reacting to these hazzards. Road racing and crit racing requires a very different skill set. Crit races often can be sign on the day road races you have to pre enter and get selected. You ideally should be a member of a club and while at cat4 you do not have to wear club kit almost everyone in a road race wears club kit. For road racing your club has to be a memebr of the local road racing league if you are to get a resonable chance of selected. Crit racing often does not have such restrictions.

Look at the bc website and see what is about in your area. It is a lot of fun and dont worry about getting dropped. Done about 15 races last year and i was not fot enough until the last one and while i have seen a couple of crashes (more happened that i have not seen) i have not been involved Yet. just like driving how you ride will determine how often if at all you crash. Some crash more than others i know one guy who kept on crashing last year and this year is taking uo trialton instead.

Give it a go the only way you will find out if you like it is to do it. Peronsally i love it even though i have not been very sucessful so for.


 
Posted : 15/03/2015 9:23 am
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Yep, don't race what you can't afford to replace. I race a couple of alloy bikes, not particularly because I can't afford to smash carbon, but to me they feel a bit sharper and immediate on generally smooth closed circuits used in crits.

A club mate of mine won in his second ever crit. All good......The next race he was placed in 3rd going into the last bend on the final lap. The first guy goes down on the ground, the second guy goes into the back of him and my mate cartwheels over the top of them, snapping his carbon frame clean in two (down tube and top tube).

He raced his cross bike for the other crits he did, and got his points for 3rd cat no problem.

Oh, and if you decide to take a "watching brief" from the back you'll soon be jettisoned and it will be your own little time trial to the finish 😉 Didn't take me long to figure that was a bad idea!


 
Posted : 15/03/2015 10:12 am
 Haze
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Oh, and if you decide to take a "watching brief" from the back you'll soon be jettisoned and it will be your own little time trial to the finish Didn't take me long to figure that was a bad idea!

Found this out second crit when I thought I was being smart saving a bit for the last few laps, better to dig in and keep in the top few. There'll still be opportunities to recover, small opportunities but if you've done your training it should be enough to get you through.


 
Posted : 16/03/2015 8:25 am
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Try the Castle Combe Summer Series, its quite fast but the riding standards in 4th Cat are better than I have seen elsewhere. In reality no one wants to crash and they usually happen in the last 1/4 of teh race as everyone gets tired and starts to panic for position. It would really help if you could ride the track before hand, there are Tuesday evening sessions and a fast group from Chippenham Wheelers normally circulates at a good pace. This will give you sight of the dips and squeeze points so you know which side of the track to be on and when.


 
Posted : 16/03/2015 8:45 am

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