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I'm about to do a DIY one (30T) by 8 set up,and can get a cassette with 32, 34 or 36 (by adapting 9s)
I'm thinking the 42 is a bail out gear and so a big jump is probably OK (and I'll like smaller jumps higher up the range) but wonder if the 8 or 10T jump to the 42 will give problems shifting (I'm using a chainrin gwith shifting pins).
Any thoughts?
I'd not choose to do it that way, but I'm expecting to need the 42t regularly so I want it to feel like just one more step up from the 36t. In terms of shifting, I reckon the problem will more likely be getting a satisfactory b-tension setting to achieve acceptable shifting right across the range as the distance from the top pulley to the sprockets will vary quite a lot. Are you using a Shimano mech or SRAM? The SRAM ones with the top pulley offset from the pivot of the mech arm seem to cope much better than the Shimano ones where the pulley and arm are coaxial.
I have recently converted to 1x10. Put a 32T Absolute Black oval on the front and used a Hope 40T extender on the rear.
I have not yet had to use the 40T at all, even in the steepest nastiest climbs. Considering going to a 34T oval on the front and then it might make sense.
my thoughts are if a fat **** like me can manage all the climbs in the area on 8speed 36T 11-28 how is a svelt rider like yourself struggling on 30T 11-34?
I actually run a 22T granny and front mech as my "bailout" gear but never really use it.
Assuming we are talking 26" wheel mtb, you don't say?
where and what sort of rides are you planning on using this bike?
my thoughts are if a fat **** like me can manage all the climbs in the area on 8speed 36T 11-28 how is a svelt rider like yourself struggling on 30T 11-34?
He is, he's back!
You are GW and I claim my £5...
To answer the OP's question, yes; the jump from 36 to 42 is a similar percentage change as on the rest of the cassette and shifts and feels fine if I ever use it.
Your problems may appear with the mech and b-tension by it's not a uncommon annoyance.
On a more serious note, gearing is an entirely personal thing. I'm a spinner, have run 1x10 a bit, found that even a 30 up front and a 40 on the back is only just about OK for the steepest climbs I ride when I'm reasonably fit/strong. After 7 weeks off a bike (illness enforced) getting back on 1x10 last weekend was a struggle!
mtbel - Member
my thoughts are if a fat **** like me can manage all the climbs in the area on 8speed 36T 11-28 how is a svelt rider like yourself struggling on 30T 11-34?
It's for a fat bike and I want to be able to climb ANYTHING on it. 22/32 was nice on recent rides but yes I wouldn't go that low on a regular 26er, being NEARLY AS AWESOME AS GW
to save yourself some grief wouldn't it be possible to just fit a 26T granny? 26/11 is plenty high enough for ice cream runs along the coast and with a normal cassette (similar low gear) and resulting shorter chain length you probably won't even need anything fancy for chainring retention.
Just bought a NW 30T and and running a middle rather than inner helps a lot with clearance - but good idea!
Think I'll run a 11-34-42 as a compromise. £6.49 at CRC!
Report back on how it works.