[Closed] On one Parkwood rear disc help please !!

Unless you want to start filing the disc mounts, I'd suggest getting a 180 rotor and calliper mount, and file that down a bit.

I was wondering if it was a 180mm disc thats meant to be fitted?

It looks like its missing around a cm of the disc all round.

Some bikes with stupid rear postmount have stupid minimum 180mm rotors, looks like it may be one. First hardtail I've seen like that though...

Weird isnt it!

Pretty sure they're not for 180mm discs, and the rear on my parkwood has never been a problem. Also, in the pic the rotor seems to fit in the caliper correctly, so might it not just need a bit more bedding in?

I used those rotors on my road bike and noticed a similar thing, I think they need a tad longer to bed in and then they're fine. I don't remember having such a warbling problem, that might just be alignment?

The other thing is to check it's seated all the way in the dropout, i have to do a little shuffle to check this on mine..?

Looking at the wear on the disc you are about 4-5mm out. I fear that looks like the brake tabs are not right.

Does the friction material on the pad match the extent of the wear we can see on the disk? As has been said - does it just need bedding in?

A picture from behind would help.

This shows the difference between front and rear hopefully...

Front ...
[URL= http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0254_zpsfiwf2hsj.jp g" target="_blank">http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0254_zpsfiwf2hsj.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
[URL= http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0255_zps76hosjwz.jp g" target="_blank">http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0255_zps76hosjwz.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

Rear....

[URL= http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0256_zpscrpb5cme.jp g" target="_blank">http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0256_zpscrpb5cme.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

[URL= http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0257_zpsoleotz3k.jp g" target="_blank">http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0257_zpsoleotz3k.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

The rear disc sits a bit lower between the pads.

Strange - it looks less than the difference between a 160/180 disc. Tried loosening the QR and slightly splaying the non-drive side against the hub to check it's fully home in the dropout? I know it's patronisingly obvious but mine is susceptible to this...

That is odd. Daft question but I'll ask it anyway - those calibers are not front / rear specific are they?

Its not patronizing at all. I've been out and checked the hub is sat correctly in the dropouts.

I'm pretty sure a caliper is a caliper in that they are front or rear specific.

Its got me baffled.

my Parkwood has a lot of paint on the dropouts and when you think the wheel is in properly it's actually only half in, I suspect you can get it in another few mm yet

This is true - i had mine powdercoated and had to sand off a fair bit of paint on the inside of the dropouts to enable me to fit a 10mm rear thru axle...sand the inside top of the dropout if if has lots of paint accumulated??

Oops double post!

I should point out that the frame was used and the previous owner didn't say anything about braking problems.

Ice just been out and done 10 miles to try and bed the brake in and its just shit.

No power and really spongy.

What can I do ?

I've got 20 dirhams on you not having the wheel all the way into the frame.

Also those rotors say resin pads only, are those sintered pads?

That wont bed in. My 45650b needed the dropouts filing from new

It's definitely seated in the frame correctly.....

[URL= http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0258_zpsluujwauk.jp g" target="_blank">http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0258_zpsluujwauk.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

I also have deores on my parkwood so I'll have a look later or tomorrow night. I'm sure I'm getting proper tracking on mine, but I did have weirdness trying to fit an adapter to run a 180 rotor, it had the same result as you have there, which is odd and I've never seen it before.

There is a rotor compatibility chart on shimanos website, have a look as you might find that caliper is not compatible with that rotor.

Edit it's towards the bottom of this
thread

http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/disc-brake-pads-too-low-will-i-die-after-sticking-some-washers-under-caliper

It's not a 150 rotor or something daft? Shimano did used to to 150/160/170/180 to allow for some of the weirder setups (trying to run IS calipers on a post mount frame being top of the list and requiring a 10mm addapter).

Nah it's definitely a 160mm disc.

Have you got a 180 disc laying about somewhere or cut one out of card just to see as I think that's all it needs.....

I could take the front one off and try it.

Are the disks true? Lay them on a flat surface.. Just eente thought

And it is [b]definitely [/b] a 160 rotor? You've measured it?

Great 🙂 currently got the same frame in the stand waiting for 180 disc to arrive.

I have a feeling there's a v2 version of the frame and I'm wondering if it's a 180 post as standard instead of 160 ..

I think v2 got a 30.9 seat post

Pity we can't do the incantation anymore ;-(

I'm sure this is the v1 with the 31.6mm seat post.

Pity we can't do the incantation anymore ;-(

Yes

Hello Brant !!!

Any ideas what's going on here please.

Hello Brant !!!

Any ideas what's going on here please.

That's now how it works.....

probably easiest to fit a 180 rotor and some washers to space it up. Looks like the upper mount is the one that is wrong.

renton - Member

Any ideas what's going on here please.

Apparently something is the[i] wrong size[/i].

Well, someone had to say it! Trying it with your 180 rotor is the next step as suggsey said, no point thinking about it more til you've done that. With no adaptor. If that doesn't work either then it's Legendary On One Build Quality.

Aye, I will swap the rotors around tomorrow see what's happening.

Ok so I've just tried a 180mm disc and that doesn't fit.

It's much to big.

I've got another 160mm disc on the way to try.

Ask On-One?

180 disc and washers is looking the best option

My brother has a parkwood with deore's I'll try and ask him about his set up to see if that helps

Try digging out the "standard" dimensions for post mount. Sure i've seen them somewhere before. Measure them up.

Then if its the posts that are wrong, get them faced (lots).

The last owner may have simply not noticed, or cared, that they were wrong.

http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Shimano_Framebuilder_Info

New i'd seen them somewhere.

I've got another 160mm disc on the way to try.

A ruler or measuring tape would probably be cheaper.

I'll have a look at mine tonight anyway.

I doubt the post mounts are out by any significant amount, looks like a one piece cast/forged part with the dropout.

Ask On-One, and if you don't have any joy I'll look at my fatty (which is also 160mm and IIRC shares the same dropout).

A ruler or measuring tape would probably be cheaper.

I'll have a look at mine tonight anyway.

Sorry what I meant is that I think the disc I have isnt compatible with the caliper.

Its an rt54 alivio disc.

The cheaper discs are made out of monkey metal so they're not recommended with sintered pads but the radiuseseses should be the same.

(OK, like a lot of people I think, I found out about the sintered pads thing after using one of the discs for about a year- it seemed fine, I've had faster wearing discs)

page 25?

BR-M615 is not listed as compatible with the RT54, if that is what you are using. (But that might just be the pad material)

renton - Member

A ruler or measuring tape would probably be cheaper.

I'll have a look at mine tonight anyway.

Sorry what I meant is that I think the disc I have isnt compatible with the caliper.

Its an rt54 alivio disc.

Unless the RT54 disc is bigger than any other 160mm I doubt thats your problem (it may be the metal in the disc isnt suitable for use with sintered pads, but thats another issue).
The problem is either the post mount is too tall or the disc is too small.
Either shim the caliper to raise it so it works with an 180mm disc or take a file to the post mounts to lower the caliper. (filing not recommended)

Gah. The suspense is killing me...

They are probably off the peg drop outs that are machined down to what is needed, eg could be 180 or could be 160, 140 etc and in this case they've been machined badly. The top surfaces don't look parallel with each other.

[IMG] [/IMG]
[IMG] [/IMG]
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Have you checked the pads to see if they are fully contacting the rotor or not? I wonder if you've just been thrown by the rotors being for a different brake and looking like something is wrong when it isn't

There is something a bit odd about these frames in that I can't seem to use a 180 adapter though, but mine engages fine with the slx rotor

Just eyeballing the difference between the OPs picture and those pictures, you can see that the overall disc diameter looks pretty much the same, and the position of the caliper is the same.

The difference, however, is in the wear line on the OPs disc - it's much further out.

So, this implies either the pad contact material is not fully formed on the pads (i.e. doesn't cover the fully pad surface), or you have the wrong pads in there...?

So, this implies either the pad contact material is not fully formed on the pads (i.e. doesn't cover the fully pad surface), or you have the wrong pads in there...?

Fairly sure the new pads have a bevelled edge at the bottom which would give the appearance of less contact on the rotor until they wear down a couple of mm

Did you get this fixed Renton?

In a word no.

I'm still none the wise with it....

I got a new disc to try and there is a difference between the pad contact surface ....

[URL= http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0274_zpsovli3y6z.jp g" target="_blank">http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0274_zpsovli3y6z.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

It's still squeaky.

I've tried to measure the distances one of the posters above measured.....

[URL= http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0269_zpsdaaed89l.jp g" target="_blank">http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0269_zpsdaaed89l.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

I think it May be the same ?

What do you think, time to call on one ?

That "new" disc looks like an old LX one so might be aimed at the lower spec discs and be slightly different. It certainly looks as though it's intended for a pad contact area slightly further out. Maybe the lower spec ones have a slightly smaller contact area to increase the pressure to get the friction higher but at the expense of higher heating.

If the outer edge of the disc is at the edge of the pad (which seems to be the case), you're ok. As bigjim mentioned, the pads have a taper on the bottom side (which supposedly prevents squeaks and other noises), it takes while for that to wear down.

Right, I had a play about yesterday with the fatty's brakes, didn't get the trail out so this may be wrong, but:

The Fatty comes as standard with Is mounts and a IS-Post +20mm adapter, Avid DB3's, a 160mm disk and NO conical washers. My other Avid brakes (elixirs) look to have identical calipers but with **5 rotors.

I swapped to shimano brakes and 180mm rotors and have the same problem as the OP. Tried it with all the ~185mm addapters I had and none would work, all put the caliper ~2mm too high. An avid 185mm rotor fit perfectly on all bar the Hope 'B' adapter which is a nominal 183mm. Even a +0 IS to post adapter mated to a 203mm post-post front adapter was too tall.

So, a bit of googling suggests shimano adapters are 180mm, so that's the next thing to try.

In terms of helping the OP, I think the only solution is to try a shimano post-post 180mm adapter and matching disk, and if that doesn't work aftermarket 165mm or 185mm rotors.

renton I think the only problem is you are still using the wrong rotor for the brakes you have, that as mentioned above looks like an old LX rotor. Also brakes squeaking isn't anything to do with the frame.

RT54s are shit anyway. Get some Centrelock to 6-bolt adaptors and proper rotors on there.

Its doing my nut in now.

FWIW Ive fitted a shimano RT63 rotor now and it looks better but its still squealing like a muthertrucker !!

some pics.......

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[URL= http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0283_zps97437ywa.jp g" target="_blank">http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0283_zps97437ywa.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

[URL= http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0284_zpssloap1yo.jp g" target="_blank">http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0284_zpssloap1yo.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

[URL= http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0285_zpsbbd9ybtu.jp g" target="_blank">http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0285_zpsbbd9ybtu.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

[URL= http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0281_zpsuw1rf5pz.jp g" target="_blank">http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/renton1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0281_zpsuw1rf5pz.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

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Apart from the uneven pad which I have now flattened I cant see owt wrong with it yet the squealing and mushy feel persists??

Apart from the uneven pad which I have now flattened I cant see owt wrong with it yet the squealing and mushy feel persists??

How come the other pad is perfectly level then ?

I'm sure it was parallel too.

Is it worth trying another set of pads ?

Yeah caliper is badly set up, the pads have been hitting the rotor at an angle so will feel weak and will squeal like a stuck pig

because that one pad has been hitting the rotor first. I think you will need new pads and set up the caliper properly.

Annoying rear brake aside, how you finding the Parkwood ?

Really good actually.

I've built it up as a new bike and I find it really nice to ride.

Are you considering one as this one will be for sale as soon as the disc issue is sorted.

From renton saying he has just built it up (without getting the brakes sorted) and already trying to sell it on, he might not be the most impartial of views.

Emac they are really nice. I have one now for 2 years, nice and solid. Not super modern and long but not that short. Think they are only £130 at on one in their never ending sale at the moment.

Renton just take it to someone to sort it surely?

Coomber. This was always going to be built up and sold on regardless of the disc issue or not. I did say I will not sell it before it's sorted or did you miss that but ?

I don't want to take it to anyone as I've never taken a bike to a shop before in my life as I pride myself on being able to investigate online and then do the work myself.

Are you considering one as this one will be for sale as soon as the disc issue is sorted

Cheers, but I only buy frames & prefer to spec myself. As Coomber mentioned, I've been eyeing the frames on the On One site

No probs.

It's a great frame and I'm sure you won't be disappointed.

My point was its hard to make a judgement on any bike unless it's all working properly. You might decide to keep it when it's done then.

Would take a pic of mine but don't know what it would do to help

I don't want to take it to anyone as I've never taken a bike to a shop before in my life as I pride myself on being able to investigate online and then do the work myself.

Maybe time to swallow your pride as you're not setting the heather on fire here. This is basic fitting, are you not a RAF fitter? Fit the 180, shim the caliper so that the pad sits at the right place on the rotor and align properly. It's not rocket science.

I don't want to fit a 180mm rotor as that would mean buying a new rotor and adapter kit.

It's not rocket science you are right. I've just been waiting to see if anyone else has had the issue before.

Maybe thinking of taking the paint off the post mount mounting surfaces next.

BTW if the tops of the posts aren't square to the axis of the wheel it will also be mushy and lack power and squeal like a pig. They might need facing.

I guess you don't have the tools to do that.

Facing will be one thing I do pay to get done

Renton

You don't need to be facing or removing paint

Just get some new pads and read up how to align the caliper, and watch the pads when you are done to see if they look in line and contacting nicely at the same time

Neither of those rotors are designed for your brakes so you might still have problems. I am using those lx rotors with the newer xt brakes on my commuter without dying but they are quite likely to have different sizes of contact area as they aren't designed to work with each other

Removing paint will often reduce/remove the squeal.

This is the first brake I've ever had bloody issues with.

I thought I had aligned it correctly and it seems strange that one pad is wrecked yet the other is perfectly fine.

Just out of interest why do you think the rt63 rotor isn't suitable as its listed as a deore disc.

The name deore has been around for donkeys years, different models come out every few years under the name deore but with different model numbers. Those rt63 rotors are an old style, I have them from a bike that was bought in about 2008. Since then the brakes and pads have been redesigned, so it is possible the contact area is not the same, ie the pads in your new deore brakes are a different width from the ones your rotor was designed to use. It might be OK, but seeing as the previous wrong rotor has already confused you it might not help.

[img] http://media.chainreactioncycles.com/is/image/ChainReactionCycles/prod124962_IMGSET?wid=500&hei=500 [/img]

Cool.

I've got a new deore centrelock rotor and a new set of deore pads on the way.

Fingers crossed that will sort it out.