[Closed] On one Fatty builds. Advice needed.

On-one's own Fatty tyre is very hard to beat, especially if grip and price are priorities. Probably the grippiest fat tyre around.
Their wheels however are not great; freehub and bearing reliability issues, plus my rear hub cracked it's axle. I've now invested in Hope & Halo Tundra.
Crank model isn't important- so long as it fits! gearing is more important than the type of crank. I'm keen on 2x10, as I live in an area of the country that has hills. 36/22 at the front, 11-36 at the back gives a superb range and actually lets you use the Fatty's unexpected party trick- it's ability to out-climb anything else on steep and loose surfaces.

Just over two years and a over 3000 miles on my on one fat wheels with no issues.
Luck of the draw I guess.
Great bike and I've used it far more than I anticipated when I purchased it in September 2013.

On one tyres can be slack on the rims but they're cheap and will get you rolling in the winter filth.
Cranks - race face or SRAM but others are available.

I guess it depends how much you want to spend and how many gears you want.

Light rims transform the bike. I went for carbon Nextie 80mm tubeless ones (still on the OO hub which is working fine for me).

The ride, steering and grip are all improved.

The complete wheels built with Nextie rims weighed the same as the OO rims on their own.

On-One tyres are hard to argue with at the price. Grip apparently isn't on a par with something like a Bud in the mud/snow, but then a Bud is £95, floaters are £25, you pay's yer money.........

My On-One wheels have been Ok. Rear bearings feel a little rough after 600miles which is disappointing but not unexpected for cheaper hubs. There are at least 2 revisions of the O-O hubs so some differences might be expected.

The O-O rims are OK too, not lightest, but you can always drill them (I'm about to do mine, if anyone want's to rent the holesaw, template etc). They're a PITA to setup tubeless reliably, especially on the back. My front has been fine, but the extra side load on the rear unseats the bead. Solved with lots of electrical tape just inside the box section that makes up the bead seat to level off the rim a bit (adds about 40g per rim, but you take out 200g by drilling, and about the same again going tubeless).

X5 cranks have been fine. Only issue has been the drive side sticks out abit too far, like the axle is 5mm too long, or the frame 5mm too narrow (checked, it's not). Which means the plastic top hat migrates out of the bearing, which makes the cranks wobble. Solution is to find a ziptie that fits the space snugly (I suppose you could wrap electrical tape round it to a 3-4mm depth and cut it off with a Stanley knife too, or find a spacer that fits).

If I was building it from scratch I'd probably use different wheels. They're fine, but there's enough niggling issue that I'd probably get chinese carbon rims and hope hubs next time (but that's a £600+ wheelset, for marginal gains over a £200 wheelset).

Cheers chaps.

DT 720's get good feedback.

The spacing on the OOF is non standard / old standard at the front so be cautious with non OO wheels. Drilling out and using 26er FR tubes takes the best part of three-four pounds out...

A wee bit of balance .....

I found the Floater to be absolute pish as a front tyre.

Never tried it as a rear but nothing to seriously compare with a Nate or a Bud or even a Husker Du up front.

And before you all jump in yes they are a smidge what a lot of other fat tyres cost I would say its worth the money for something decent on the front.

I also found the Floater a right royal PITA to fir to a V1 OO rim.

V2 wheels look good VFM

the Fatty's unexpected party trick- it's ability to out-climb anything else on steep and loose surfaces.

This x 1000. First time out on mine I cleaned Fremington Edge for the first time since about 1996! You can spin them up anything.

People talk a lot of crap about tyres but the floaters that came on mine have been exemplary, they deal with thick gloop, loose rocks and wet roots with aplomb. You could probably get faster rolling tyres but you'd be sacriicing grip and that's not worth it in winter.

Be warned though, the bike will bring out your inner hooligan

I'm just learning fat bikes and the most recurring advice is that 120tpi tyres are more supple, so roll faster for the same compound/tread- at low pressures you're fighting the resistance of deforming the tyres. And presumably also glom round obstacles better.

So, I have 2 Jumbo Jims and just added a Bud.

If you're worried about rolling resistance you probably shouldn't have bought a fat bike 😆

The complete wheels built with Nextie rims weighed the same as the OO rims on their own.

Do you have the exact weights you could post please.

They're draggier than normal bikes; that doesn't mean there's no point in reducing drag.

Make sure you get the carbon fork, race face cranks are good because you can rejig Shimano bb for use. Wheels, I'd get hope fatsno on dt swiss br710s. Floater fine for the rear but Bud on the front. Managed to set tyres up tubeless with ghetto 24" tube.

on and on - Member
Do you have the exact weights you could post please.

Sadly no. It was the bike shop weighed them and told me when I picked the wheels up.

I could weigh the wheels but getting the tubeless tyres off Nextie rims is hard work (never mind the sealant that's in there). On the plus side they are tight enough to tubeless a Bud and a Floater with a standard track pump.

Suffice it to say, weight wise with an 80mm rim, OO hub and DT Rev spokes they feel similar to a normal (say Hope hoop) wheel.

gypsumfantastic - Member
If you're worried about rolling resistance you probably shouldn't have bought a fat bike

Not in muddy, marshy ground. Laughably quicker than the 2.1-2.3 shod Fives and Lapierres I ride with.

They're draggier than normal bikes; that doesn't mean there's no point in reducing drag.

Fair point, I find it cheaper to pedal a little bit harder 🙂

Laughably quicker than the 2.1-2.3 shod Fives and Lapierres I ride with.

Absolutely an it doesn't have to be marshy either just a bit rough. I'd wager that some rides are actually quicker or easier on a fat bike (but don't tell everyone)

Here is my V2 OOF, running BR710's with Hope Fatsno hubs. Now fitted with Nates tubeless for the winter. I prefer a double on the fatty i can now just about winch the thing up anything. Still getting my head around tyre pressures. But getting there! I need to replace some of the groupset now, rear mech has just died and i need an XT cassette before i kill my new hope cheesey freehub. I have been looking at other fatty frames to upgrade to, but in all honesty I think i am just going to upgrade the bits on my oof
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