[Closed] On One Fat bike advice

Tubeless on the Fatty oem rims is a massive PITA. Schwalbe sv16f tubes save a massive amount of weight for about 12 quid the pair.

The On One wheels aren't offset and 170/135 is a reasonably common set up.

I've had drilled Rolling Darryl rims on my 9ZERO7 for 4 years, I ride them on all sorts of terrain (include Glentress and Laggan) and the wheels are just fine.

Drilled the fatty rims, make sure you have a decent drill or it takes ages. Haven't given them a second thought since drilling them and they're still going strong.

Oh and front hub is rear disc spacing so if you get a standard hub you may need to space out the disc.

Drilled my front the other day, coast kids video guide is spot on. My experience suggests a fine pitched 32mm hole saw would've been better. I used a Bosch one and the teeth were a bit aggressive leading to much deburring and flap wheel. End result isn't amazing but definitely saved weight and looks better.

The wheels are not offset on an On One Fatty, but the front brake is rear spaced (disc mount on the front hub, calliper mount on the fork). This used to be fairly commonplace, but is now becoming increasingly unusual

Forget tubeless unless you buy new wheels. The rim hooks aren't up to it, it'll be a huge pita and not reliable. 2.5" FR or DH tubes in those rims plus drilling is the way forward for weight loss.

Truth be told, once you adjust they're not bad though. Because they're heavy they hold their rolling speed like flywheels so long as you stay off the brakes. They do noticeably slow* down in the air though. I saved something like a kilo going 1x10 with an expander and a replacement crank for the 100mm howitzer mine came with. Stick the carbon fork on if it's not already got it. That's a huge improvement.

While 135/170 is pretty common, a rear disc spaced (RDS) front hub is *not* Make sure you pay attention to the front disc spacing if doing anything involving changing wheels or fitting non- on one forks. 🙂

dufusdip - Member

I've seen a few videos and reports of drilling the rims. It looks like a lot of metal comes out but whilst that is weight, it also looks fairly brutal and as if it needed to be there in the first place and wondered what real world experiences are like having done this? Does this consign the wheels to only doing sand/snow on gentler surfaces or would it still cope with being thrown ungraciously down a red?

They're not the same rims, but, my Dune came with pre-drilled rims and it's been quite happy ridden on innerleithen downhill trails

I've had my Fatty for over 3 years and love it! 😀

I agree with some of the weaknesses above:

- the wheel QR axles are increasingly being replaced by through axles. And the front hub is the rear rotor spacing. These will limit upgrades in the future.

- the stock rims (at least the original version) made it hard to seat tires properly, either tubed or tubeless. I have switched to Sun Mulefut rims.

Thanks all - that is extremely helpful.

I've gone for the carbon fork upgrade already so hopefully that should make a difference on the weight. Will break out the drill initially and if I like it will be considering a frame upgrade.

In terms of rear rotor spacing is that a case of shimming out the disk between the wheel/using a specific brake calliper mounting adapter or is it completely non-interchangeable?

I saved something like a kilo going 1x10 with an expander and a replacement crank for the 100mm howitzer mine came with. Stick the carbon fork on if it's not already got it. That's a huge improvement.

What cranks and BB did you go for to replace the howitzer setup?

It's easiest done (if you buy a front disk spaced hub) by putting a spacer between the disk and the hub and using longer bolts, Hope sell the spacers so it's not a big deal.

As for tubeless, my front has been faultless, the rear was a PITA as it takes more side load in corners (the fronts pointing where it's going). Solution is/was to wrap a roll of electrical tape just inside the shoulder of the rim to make a bigger seat for the bead to sit on before the actual seat, ads about 30g per rim, but that's nothing compared to the weight lost by ditching tubes or drilling the rims.

Depending on which model you went for I'd also:
Upgrade the bars to the 777mm knuckleballs, saves a fair few grams and the 800mm bars were a bit too wide even for me!

Dropper post, they're faster than they look on techy trails!

Everything else is fine.

The tubes that come in the O-O fatty are monstrously heavy. Swap those for some sort of standard free-ride or DH tube and save 200g a wheel instantly.

I drilled my O-O fatty wheels out. It's worth getting a good quality hole saw (I think 28mm or maybe 30mm, can't remember) paired up with a good quality drill with a bit of grunt. The weight saving isn't much but the wheel are very chunky so no worries about strength.

That all said, I sold my O-O fatty last year. Once the novelty wore off it was just a heavy giffer of a bike. It was fun on beaches (novelty value tempered by salt water and sand) and snow (it doesn't snow often) but apart from that...

The tubes that come in the O-O fatty are monstrously heavy. Swap those for some sort of standard free-ride or DH tube and save 200g a wheel instantly.

I drilled my O-O fatty wheels out. It's worth getting a good quality hole saw (I think 28mm or maybe 30mm, can't remember) paired up with a good quality drill with a bit of grunt. The weight saving isn't much but the wheel are very chunky so no worries about strength.

That all said, I sold my O-O fatty last year. Once the novelty wore off it was just a heavy giffer of a bike. It was fun on beaches (novelty value tempered by salt water and sand) and snow (it doesn't snow often) but apart from that...

Mine are set up tubeless with ghetto 24" tubes split open, been up for ages and seem to be holding.

Mine is the same spec as yours just about.
It weighs 15 kg and rolls just fine. The brakes are completely useless. That would be my first upgrade.
Had my first ride on Sunday. Didn't magically set any strava records ,mainly as the trails are thick with mud.
It handled the mud superbly and I shall take it over any of my other bikes next Sunday.
You will get plastered in filth . Get some over trousers so you can hose yourself off when you get home.
For me it is a very specific bike and won't get ridden in the summer ( unless it's at the seaside).
Very happy with it and if it gets ridden 10 times a year that's probably 10 times I wouldn't have gone out on a bike.

For me it is a very specific bike and won't get ridden in the summer ( unless it's at the seaside).

I didn't find the brakes too bad, no better or worse than XT's anyway, not as instantly grabby, but similar overall power, although I do find the limit of the 180m, front rotor at higher speeds. Not bad enough to consider upgrading anyway.

It was fun on beaches (novelty value tempered by salt water and sand) and snow (it doesn't snow often) but apart from that...

For me it is a very specific bike and won't get ridden in the summer

Just curious like

Regarding the summer riding, I shall be on my Spearfish as hopefully it will be dry and rocky.
My knees need suspension.

Right. Is your On-One a harsh kind of ride

I've done 18 months of riding on mine, all seasons, natural & trail centres, dust, sand & snow. Brilliant fun, don't limit yourself to winter

I just didn't enjoy it as much as any of my other bikes, it always felt a bit lumpen and dead. I would get another fatty if I stayed somewhere a bit more remote as I reckon I would get more enjoyment out of using it for exploring soft boggy trails and winter snow. As a general bike it wasn't my cup of tea.

rOcKeTdOg - Member
I've done 18 months of riding on mine, all seasons, natural & trail centres, dust, sand & snow. Brilliant fun, don't limit yourself to winter

I can see this happening to me. Had my fatbike a couple of months ago and had the thought it would be a good winter bike. I haven't touched, or thought about, my other bikes since.

Nextie 80mm carbon rims. Wheels now lighter than the rims that came off (according to LBS wheel builder - I haven't checked.
Plus I ditched the tubes and added Stans.

Bud front, Floater rear.

Like a different bike. A much lighter and livelier one.

And I agree with the ride it everywhere not just sand and snow comments. Though maybe not as a road bike. Or for the Alps - though winter in the Alps...

What cranks and BB did you go for to replace the howitzer setup?

Having run the Howitzer/Hussefelt combo on my old On One, I can confirm that this arrangement is comically heavy. I upgraded mine to a set of Race Face Chesters with X-Type bottom bracket and saved a pound or so of weight, despite adding an extra chainring, shifter, front mech and front mech mount.

Fat bikes are super gay. 650b+ is where its at for the cool kids.

You dredged up an old thread to say that, super something alright...........

Only to say that, and that I think dufusdip should post some teasing lycra pics to reignite the thread.

Having run the Howitzer/Hussefelt combo on my old On One, I can confirm that this arrangement is comically heavy. I upgraded mine to a set of Race Face Chesters with X-Type bottom bracket and saved a pound or so of weight, despite adding an extra chainring, shifter, front mech and front mech mount.

Will keep an eye out for a Raceface setup, I didn't know that they did one

One? There's a bit more choice than that...
http://www.raceface.com/components/cranks/fat-bike/fat-bike/
Most (if not all) of the range available in the UK too...

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/race-face-ride-fat-bike-cranks-with-bb/

Shame it's out of stock, I'll try some other sellers, I'm in no rush tho as the Truvativ setup is fine for now. 🙂

Can you guys give any advice on sizing. I'm 6ft. I'd usually go for a 19" frame but the fatty is 18" or 20". I've got an OO Parkwood 20" which fits nicely, bus it's a big frame and I do wonder if an 18" would have been better to save a bit of weight.

20" here, 6ft2" with 60mm stem. 18" felt too small for me

@sgn23 Isn't the standover the same and so it will be about which reach suits?

6' here and large / 18" in all On One or Planet X frames. Stem lengths vary, but 50mm on the 18" Fatty.

Strangely I find the Fatty a really rewarding bike to throw around (ok I lightened mine), lots of lean into bends, lots of fore and aft movement - so I'd go for the 18" if I were you (which by definition I'm not so don't blame me).