[Closed] Old Skool MTB

I love old Rocky Mountain hardtails, if you're just using it for a bit of local riding and it all works just keep it as it is.

There's sod all choice out there for bikes at the moment so I'd not be looking to buy a new one if I could help it right now. In the long run, all that 26" stuff will become harder and harder to replace with similar spec kit so your hand might be forced eventually.

I'm the same, with an old Cotic Soul, 26 wheels.

I also looked at changing gear, as I can't get genuine Race Face chainrings anymore - and want a Power Meter.

After considering options, I'm leaving it as it for now.

Worth looking on ebay for wheels. I have DT Swiss(EM 51 I think) Rims, with Hope Pro 2 hubs on both bikes. I cracked a rim, and couldn't get a new one to rebuild the wheel. While I was looking though, I found identical wheels, as new on Ebay, for about £100 I got them. My two pairs cost £340 each from Merlin, so an absolute bargain.

Am thinking something along the lines of going 1x gearing,

I did this last year on my 05 Stumpy HT, along with some other tweaks including frame powder-coated. I ended up going from 3x9 to 1x11. Has it made the bike better? Not really. It's obvs less cluttered in certain areas, and I don't miss the range of gears really, but it was an expensive change to make as I had to buy new bits as 2nd hand were just not available at a reasonable cost.
TBH it was really just a project I decided to do, as previously I'd never tried any significant spannering myself. Learnt quite a bit as I went along so ultimately was worthwhile.

Looking at replacement bikes, the thing that i’ve noticed is that my bike seems to be lighter than a lot of MTB’s in the £1500 price range

But your bike is probably not £1500 is it, if it's covered in things like XTR and Mavic wheels? If that's what you want to spend, then lower your expectations of kit and what weight the bike will be. To get that sort of kit of a (now probably carbon frame) you're going to have to spend a few grand over your current budget.

Is anything on the bike actually worn out/broken. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

I'm still on 26" wheels, old school geometry (bike is from 1999). The only time I've ever noticed that bikes with modern geometry have an advantage is on stupid steep downhill stuff. Wide bars make riding on the flat grossly innefficent from all the extra wind resistance. Short stems make the bike less snappy through tight turns especially uphill on singletrack. 1x drivetrains lose me the bottom end for grinding up long climbs at 6mph and lose the top end for blasting down the doubletrack descents at 30mph+.

The best upgrade to my bike has been the tyres, upsizing from 1.85" to 2.25", going tubeless and switching to really high quality lightweights tyres Schwalbe Racing Ralpha, depending on how sharp your local rocks are, you may need something more durable?

I've just upgraded my 95 DBR Axis TT with 1x10. Second hand derailleur & shifter with Sunrace cogs weren't expensive.
The hard part to replace is V brake wheels. I'm on Crossmax SL's & they've seen better days.

Do i need to even ‘modernise’ it

If it's working currently, I'd say no.

It's summer (alegedly), by the time you've pissed about changing drivetrain parts and forks you might have missed the chance to just enjoy getting out and riding.

Or Maybe order some bars/stems/forks/NW chainring/tyres but don't make riding contingent on having fitted any of that stuff, as you'll inevitably end up with a half disassembled bike when a sunny day strikes and you can't get out because you've removed bars and a front mech in anticipation of incoming toys...

On the wheel size thing, I was a vocal critic of the binning of 26" wheels but TBH I find rolling about on a (heavier) 29er just fine.

As for weight, It's worth remembering a bikes weight isn't the major component of the work you have to do on a given climb, the meatsack on top is generally the biggest determining factor. I think there's been a bit more of a recognition in recent years that lightweight isn't such an important determining factor in what makes a bike 'good' or 'bad'... As for having to spend £1500+ TBH factoring in 15 years of inflation, the recent bump in prices due to covid triggered scarcity, etc that's probably not super expensive for a decent new MTB these days, various people are spending stupid money on bikes which only serves to nudge the whole market up.

I'd get back out riding your existing bike, maybe see if you can have a borrow of some more recent bikes just to try, perhaps when winter rolls round start looking for some bargains, perhaps peruse the used market. Dare I dsay it your use case sounds like a Gravel bike might suit you, but that's a whole other can of internet nonsense...

In the short term, just get out riding ASAP.

Not pump but superstarcomponent have 26" wheels hidden away. Listed as kids but the rims are just small versions of others.

Other companies might do same.

Bits are hard to come by right now but drive chain is still an option. 10 or 11 speed would be fine and maybe open up 1x.

But if it works and you like it then keep riding.

Modern bikes are moving away from light weight. Bigger wheels, wider rims, fatter tyres and dropper posts adding a chunk of weight. But potentially a better ride experience?

Do i need to even ‘modernise’ it; is it perfectly capable for what i need and use it for (cross country/bridleways etc, no jumps/downhill courses). In spite of the fact it’s ‘only’ 26″

I asked similar about my Cove (which is probably even older, maybe a 2002/3 frame).
I already knew that trying to change one thing would result in a lot of subsidiary changes due to compatibility and in the end I more or less decided to just ride it into the ground. Once something on it finally gives up the ghost, I'll strip it right back and salvage what's left, then probably convert to 1x or something.

As you say though, the 26" wheel options are almost non-existent now. It'll get to the point of searching random bike shops for New Old Stock rims.

Searching for a new 26″ wheelset online doesn’t give much, unless you want cheap stuff.

Wheelsets may be sparse but there is still a good supply of rims (i.e. SJS Cycles) so just build the wheels yourself and hubs are plentiful and clearly spokes will always be available.

The only problem with 26" bikes is that they typically have a straight 1 1/8 steerer so need forks to match and that is what has really gone away rather than the wheels.

Still running my '91 Diamond Bck Ascent (XT and LX) - got some Crossrides for it a few years back. Problems now are chain rings - had to buy a lightly used one. I use it as my 'faux' commute bike when I pop out at lunch for an hour or so, saves getting the FS full of crap.

I'd say work out how much you saved to end up with a lighter bike then spend it on beer, then carry on enjoying boosting up hills.

Definitely shorten the stem and widen the bars, way better control and feel from 2005 spec.

The only problem with 26″ bikes is that they typically have a straight 1 1/8 steerer so need forks to match and that is what has really gone away rather than the wheels.

Pretty sure any tapered fork can be converted to 1 1/8th straight, through RSF suspension, if you really want.

This is my 26" bike over the last couple of weeks, based around a frame I bought off here for £25 two years ago.
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Works fine. I've actually got a current 29er frame and forks in a box but feel no great urge to buy wheels and build it up. Running 1x may, depending on your frame, allow you to run fatter tyres - I've got 2.4s front and rear, which do make a real world difference. The components were mostly a straight swap from a previous 26" frame, also bought off here for £60, and which is now my gravelish bike (with 27.5" wheels, yes, bought off here last year, £60, and which have enough clearance with 2.1" tyres on).

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A 1x conversion, fatter tyres and rigid forks sounds good to me.

Hi
Thanks to all for replying to my post. The main reason for it was that i haven't ridden the Blizzard for about 3 years as i was concentrating on road cycling (have always done both Road and MTB) and replaced my 2 road bikes over that period as well. I now have 2 road bike frames that won't need replacing again.
So the Blizzard next. I've always been a fan of steel (don't particularly like how carbon rides) and have no intention of replacing it unless 26" wheels are completely out. Which, going by comments on here, they aren't.
I only mentioned a price point of £1500 as this appears to me to be the base level where bikes start to get lighter due to better components (even if the frame is essentially the same). But i might be completely wrong in that assumption of course.
I'm going to concentrate on replacing a couple of components, namely the saddle and seatpost and possibly the wheels as i would like to go tubeless and have a slightly wider rim as well (the Mavic's are only 16.5mm)

Sell it and buy a new one, prices are mad ATM, and if you're determined, you'll find a replacement.

I agree sell it for more than you think it's worth at the moment. It will never be worth whats it's worth right now again with demand outstripping supply and people returning to the sport from years of absence wanting a premium bike they remember.

If its dripping in hope etc then sell it by parts.

They get something new. £1500 on a lightly used covid impulse buy will get you a very good bike, just keep a keen eye out.

Bikes may be heavier than 15 years ago but they ride better. Whether that translates into any more fun for you or not is up to you.

I'm still riding an old Giant NRS. It's overforked with some U-Turn Revelations (adjustable from 100 to 130 mm) and has a 125 mm dropper post, 60 mm stem, and 760 mm wide bars. As a trail bike, it's much improved over the original setup with 80 mm forks and 90 mm stem. It has enough clearance on the back for a 2.25 tyre. IME, that's often the limitation of older XC bikes, a lot of them can't fit anything wider than 2.1 tyres. It's obviously not going to win an enduro race, but it's still a fun bike to ride.

unless 26″ wheels are completely out. Which, going by comments on here, they aren’t.

But it is becoming increasing hard to find replacement stock for stuff as it wears out. Obviously if you're smart with finding stock you could keep 26" wheels going for a long time, but ultimately why would you want to?

I only mentioned a price point of £1500 as this appears to me to be the base level where bikes start to get lighter due to better components

But as other's have mentioned, bikes aren't really being built to a weight spec any more. I think most folk have either realised (or resigned themselves to the fact that) with a bit more weight/heft/substance, components can be built that are actually designed to work off road, and will last longer. Plus 29er wheels are heavier, dropper posts are heavier, 1x cassettes, are heavier. The same spec level bike you can buy now to match what you've got, will probs weigh a bit more than the bike you're on now. So if you've got your heart set of a sub 30lbs hardtail, you can surely built/buy it, but it's going to cost you, especially if you like steel frames.

It ultimately depends on what you want to do though really, and how much time you're going to spend off-road. It sounds to me as if you like having the ability to go off road, but your main interest is roadie, so in your shoes, I'd replace what I need to keep that RM going in the short term, if you decide that you're super keen on off-road all of a sudden, only then start splashing the cash, then flog the RM, use the money to buy something that will be 1. a bit more up to date in terms of handling and geometry, and b. will have modern parts that will be easily sourced at the LBS/internet superstore and won't have you searching the allys trying to get spares...

If you like riding it and have an emotional attachment then definitely keep it. There is absolutely nothing wrong with 26” wheels and older geo. You mentioned a new seatpost - carbon will help absorb some vibration or a dropper will help in the more technical stuff and on the downs. Otherwise the best ‘upgrade’ in my opinion would be a clutch mech. This will make the ride much quieter and make the chain more secure. Depending on what setup you have at the mo this may require a groupset upgrade to 10/11/12 speed. Personally for the riding you describe I’d stick with 2x to keep the steps between gears smaller and give that bulk shift you get when swapping the front ring. 1x is absolutely awesome for the rough, big ups/downs and simplifying the bike but for more old-school XC I think 2x is slightly better. You can still get good tubeless 26” rims (Stans, WTB) so you could either get you wheels rebuilt if the hubs are OK or have some lovely new ones with say hope hubs and d-light spokes. Wider bars and shorter stem are certainly an option but I’d borrow some to try out first to make sure it doesn’t adversely affect the handling or your comfort. There are still some ok deals on unfashionable long stems and narrow bars that will be shorter and wider than your current ones!

Having said all that, if you have no attachment to the bike then now is a good time to maximise what you will get for it. You will however pay a premium for a new one and may struggle to source one or get to test one as the market is screwed. New frames are heavier due to modern crash standards so even a pricey and trick steel frame will be heavier than your Rocky Mountain.

I'm not seeing any advantage in selling a light very good bike for a few hundred quid, then having to add a grand to get a heavier one.

Pound for lb the better riding tool has to be the depreciated top end bike, provided its not costing too much in worn out top end bits, and copes with the type of riding asked of it of course.

Pound for lb the better riding tool has to be the depreciated top end bike, provided its not costing too much in worn out top end bits, and copes with the type of riding asked of it of course.

Not really - geometry changed for a reason and makes a big difference, and getting old xt, old bits in general can be tricky. The former really depends on what the OP wants to ride, but if he goes to a bikepark with his mates .
For bridleways etc... gravel bike?

I’m not seeing any advantage in selling a light very good bike for a few hundred quid, then having to add a grand to get a heavier one.

Pound for lb the better riding tool has to be the depreciated top end bike, provided its not costing too much in worn out top end bits, and copes with the type of riding asked of it of course.

Ridden a new bike in the last couple of years?

I had a 90s Blizzard for many years. Lovely bike. But I sold it eventually and went 29er (currently with a carbon FS but had several steel hardtails in the interim from a Ragley to a Shand). Being tall, I've found that the 29er just feels far more capable and suitably sized for me. Modern geometry is also much improved on the short and steep Blizzard. Most modern bikes will be heavier, in part because there's more material (compare the Blizzard's noodly down tube with that of a modern steel bike, which will also likely have more travel, longer dimensions etc). But, for me, the improvement in the handling due to the geometry plus modern standards such as 1x drivetrains, Boost wheels etc outweighs the extra weight.
That said, if your bike still works fine and you're comfortable just riding it in between your road bikes, that's reason enough to keep it.

Ridden a new bike in the last couple of years?

I'd have to say not really, I had a blast on an ebike recently that was fun but I personally couldn't get it up a hill without battery assistance, and I admit to being slightly weight obsessive...and maybe slow to change.

Perhaps the debate is what benefits slacker geometry and 29 wheels give over 2005 geometry? and are they enough to warrant a fairly sizeable wad of cash.

For me 2005 geometry is comfy, I remember what went before, 2005 saw some pretty big changes, 26 inch wheels were always small, acceleration on single track was deemed important I guess, Gary Fisher promoted bigger wheels long before 2005, no argument there, you can roll over stuff easier and faster, but do they increase my speed uphill? what should I expect when I try one of these modern wonders?

getting old xt, old bits in general can be tricky

I find not, Shimano 9 speed is not rare and XT readily available, I just bought an M770 cassette for example.

I went from a 2004 carbon lrs (xc marathon race geometry) which I had fitted with a dropper and 1x to modernise over the years, to a 2017 Orange Segment (short travel enduro bike).

The orange is a million times better when descending or on rough terrain and is on a par when climbing. I put some more XC orientated tyres on it (ground control 2.3) and smashed my previous best twentyfour12 results.

Geometry nowadays is for purpose.

But if you are going to ride 00's style trails there is no need to upgrade, although getting decent straight steerer forks will be getting harder.

Perhaps the debate is what benefits slacker geometry and 29 wheels give over 2005 geometry? and are they enough to warrant a fairly sizeable wad of cash.

It depends on what terrain you're riding really. Biggest benefits for me of modern bikes is their capability and stability. When it comes to techy steep stuff, or longer DH sections,  bikes with more progressive geometry just leave older bikes for dust. In every other respect they're just as competent as older bikes. So if your riding is towpath and gentle forest riding (Chilterns and so on) I wouldn't be in a hurry to change. If your riding is North Wales or Peaks and so on, give them a go, what have you got to loose?

and I admit to being slightly weight obsessive

Man, just let that shit go 🙂 . Modern bikes are at worst a couple of kgs heavier than their older counterparts, it makes bugger all difference in the grand scheme of things, really.

Man, just let that shit go 🙂

I completely agree where efficiency takes over but's in the DNA now, most of my cycling is on road to hard packed, even gnarly but rarely soft or swoopy downhills, lifting over fences and so on, no times to beat, happy to adopt anything that works better so will see if I can get an hour on something significantly newer.
Maybe to add context, I went from an Orange clockwork to a Specialized epic fsr(2004) and back to a Stumpy hard tail from 2004, prefer the Stumpjumper, can absolutely see where a 2021 Stumpy hardtail would be an improvement but can't justify that cost, what would be a cheaper modern alternative to try?