Numpty question of ...
 

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Numpty question of the day #2

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XTR brakes.

 

Tips for centering the calipers please.

 

Every other disc brake I've had - slacken bolts, squeeze lever, nip bolts, ride

 

These bleeders just want to twist every which way but loose when tightening the bolts and always end pushing the disc and being misaligned/rubbing. I can't see anything inherently different about them and yes they have washers under the bolt head. 

 

I've just resorted to eyeing the gap up, holding with a vice like grip and gently tightening each bolt bit by bit, but it's not the most accurate method

 
Posted : 23/09/2025 11:01 am
 mert
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Are the mounts/bosses on the frame and fork nice and square?

 
Posted : 23/09/2025 11:14 am
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Posted by: mert

Are the mounts/bosses on the frame and fork nice and square?

 

The forks are brand new Lyriks - with a brand new 180-203 adapter, so you'd hope so, but maybe not. The rear is an IS/PM adaptor, but a China cheapy, so misalignment could be an option

 

 
Posted : 23/09/2025 11:18 am
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Some people may come on and say that you’ll die… however, a tiny blob of grease applied with a cotton bud between bolt and washer is what I used with difficult brakes. Apply loctite to the bolt thread and it’s not going anywhere, also, don’t over tighten, 6-7 Nm is about right I think?

As regards the rear adapter, I have some, If I have the right one I can post it to you, free.

 

 
Posted : 23/09/2025 11:30 am
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You must have been pretty lucky up to now OP, IME rotors will merrily flex sideways as you apply torque to the calliper mounting bolts. Holding the lever in while you tighten the bolts seldom achieves a well centred calliper (Again IME, YMMV)... 

Tighten either bolt in stages top and bottom bolt using the short end of the hex key if you see a bit of twisting you should be able to nudge it back in line by hand. 

I've also had some limited success using those rotor shim jobbies to centre the calliper. 

Oh and you have got flat washers under the bolt heads right? a small dob of grease or copper slip on the face of those will limit their ability to transmit the bolt torque to the calliper body (don't use oil, and don't splodge it about and get it on any other parts obviously). 

 
Posted : 23/09/2025 11:36 am
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Posted by: wheelsonfire1

As regards the rear adapter, I have some, If I have the right one I can post it to you, free.

 

Cheers - I supposedly have a Stanton one coming from Stanton at some point. Thanks though

 

 
Posted : 23/09/2025 11:39 am
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Use one of these on the rotor while you're doing the "squeeze and tighten" thing. 

https:  //www.amazon.co.uk/Adjusting-Bicycle-Mounting-Assistant-Alignment/dp/B07FPH77VQ/r?th=1

Screenshot 2025-09-23 194223.png

 
Posted : 23/09/2025 6:43 pm
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I've never liked the squeeze and tighten method.

I remove pads, centre caliper over the rotor (I use a feeler gauge), I also use copper slip on the bolts. Proper torque and I've never had one come loose.

I then refit the pads and adjust the pistons to avoid rubbing.

This typically leads to quieter brakes and more even pad wear.

I have used some of the 3d printed blocks that fit snuggly in the caliper with a slot for the rotor and found those quite useful.

 
Posted : 24/09/2025 5:48 am

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