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During lockdown, my son sheered the rear forks off his much loved 26” hard tail.
Being beyond repair, but having good gears and brakes, we decided to look for an affordable full sus frame to use as a recipient.
We found, what we believe to be, a very affordable Nomad frame as the starting point. But this is where we now need help.
The frame has a 1.5” head and we are now looking to source suitable front forks.
My understanding is that we will need straight forks and converters to accommodate either 1 1/8th or tapered tubes, but I’m now confusing myself with different fork lengths and all the technical descriptions.
Would you kind people be good enough to tell us what would be suitable, both in terms of forks and conversion kits?
Please be gentle and use laymen's terms, as were both new to this MTB building lark.
Thanks.
1.5" head tube would make it the Nomad v1? Linky
Have a look at the following link as it will give you the technical specs for the frame inc fork travels etc.
You'll need a fork suitable for 26" wheels within the listed travel range. Rear wheel travel is 165mm so a 160-170mm for would probably provide the best balance. As 26" is now an old standard for performance mtb you're going to need to look second hand.
Steerer length of the fork will be dictated by how much steerer you need to fit into the frame and bolt a stem too (remember headset stack as well, plus it's good to have room for a couple of spacers for adjustability).
Steerer size - the 1.5" head tube is something which never caught on fully. Most of the age of the v1 were 1 1/8" and then tapered took over 1 1/8 top / 1.5 bottom. I'm sure if you had a look around you'd find a kit to convert the top of the steerer to accept 1 1/8 headset cups (or a reducer cup) which would enable you to fit a tapered fork which would give you access to more choice.
V2 I think. My V1 certainly has a 1 1/8" steerer. I think after that they went to tapered.
https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-US/bike/nomad/2
I would try giving Hope a call. They do Pick'n'Mix headsets and reducers so they should be able to sort you out with what you need to fit a tapered fork.
https://www.hopetech.com/products/controls/headsets/pick%E2%80%99n%E2%80%99mix-headsets/
Surely much better to get a tapered 27.5" fork, even if you still run a 26" wheel. That way you'll be able to swap to a newer frame if you want, plus much more choice of forks.
@brucewee - it seems they did a 1.5 version of the V1.
Also hols makes a good point. May as well get some 27.5 forks as more choice and future compatibility. May also slacken the head angle a touch.
Hi
I think I have the Hope headset that you’d need sitting spare in the garage.
Previously installed on a Mk2 Nomad that had non-tapered 1” 1/8 forks, so simply reduces the top and bottom of the headset down from 1.5”.
The headset you need will be dictated by the forks you acquire for the bike, but let me know if this headset Would be of interest in due course.
it seems they did a 1.5 version of the V1.
If they did it must have been the last year of production. Mine was a 2007 model and I think the V2 came out in 2008.
@swahilidog It would be good to know what fork and front wheel you have at the moment. Particularly what kind of axle it has (9mm, 15mm, or 20mm). If it's anything other than 15mm I suspect a new front wheel will be needed as well in which case there's no reason not to go 27.5 on everything up front.
The very last of the Mk1 had 1.5 steerers, all the Mk2 had 1.5 steerers. You just need something like an older Rockshox Lyrik with a tapered steerer - this is what's on my Mk2. Can't remember the exact headset but I think it's a Cane Creek but can look when I get home, bottom takes the 1.5 and the top is in inset headset to take the 1 1/8th top of the steerer. You can also fit Totems as the frame takes up to 180mm forks. I had some 1.5in straight Totems on mine for the Alps and just changed the top headset - I think Nuke Proof do a 1.5in external headset. If you get some straight steerer Lyriks you can use the hope 1.5in adaptor. Stealth ad - I have some NOS 1.5 straight steerer Lyriks, if interested message me.
Also, check the bearings, especially the lower short link that connects the frame to the rear swing arm, they can all be expensive to replace. The Mk2 has adjustable/angle bearings that need to be checked now and then. The lower link has grease nipples but not everyone will regularly grease them.
Yeah there was a v1.5 with a fat headtube, as I got a v1 about a month before they announced it and was a bit annoyed!