You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Just recieved a very shiny set of wheels with Stans Flows.
But I'm a die-hard schrader user, and would like to remain so.
The question is, do I drill out my brand-spanking new wheels?
Or make the dreaded switch to girly valves?
Don't drill.
Hmmm am comming upto the same decision soon. Do you run tubes? Think thats what my decision is based on as all the tubeless valve thingys seem to be presta.
It's a bicycle, not a tractor.
It's a valve. Either will be fine. Flip a coin.
I run tubes, and have no intention of going tubeless at the moment.
I suppose I'd get around the issue of ease by carrying around an adaptor? It's just so simple to have schrader stuff on tap, when presta is bike specific. (Means I have to go get new tubes tomorrow!)
why are you not going tubless? just get the proper removable core presta valve and get rid of your tubes.
Or make the dreaded switch to girly valves?
Oooooh ... pink?
Drill, then use whatever tube you like. Dint drill, and cry when you can only get an emergency schrader tube.
Drill tubes are tubes, don't get stuck when the only loan on a cold wet night is a schrader.
Prestas are too flimsy for mountain biking 😉
Presta to flimsy ?
Drill.
My flows are drillied out for proper valves. .Paulo knows the score 😉
Presta valves have a few small advantages over schrader valve and no real disadvantages.
Unless you go riding completely unprepared and rely on other people to help you out, don't bother drilling.
Presta valves have a few small advantages over schrader valve and no real disadvantages.
Presta Bends when unscrewed
Schrader Tubes don't fit in Presta Holes
Both good to 100+psi
Unless you go riding [s]completely unprepared and rely on[/s][b][i]have a bad day and[/i][/b] other people to help you out,
What advantage does presta have?
Proper valves are good to 300psi Mike.
Drill. Hardy valves versus delicate flowers. And you can do a hit and run on a garage pump in the far north west of Scotland when it all goes pear-shaped and your last but one tube has a 3" slash 😳 .
I'm genuinely interested in the "few small advantages" presta have over schrader on a mountain bike.
Presta have no advantages for us, apart from that they fit in both holes. Oh and it's easier to spell
Some say it's easier to get high pressures with presta, because you don't have to pressurise the valve each time. Unconvinced. And not relevant to mtbs anyway.
Proper valves are good to 300psi Mike.
Never tested a Presta above 110psi
Schrader on the otherhand is fine up to 300 as I found out on my Shock
They seem to work fine on HP suspension.
Schrader = proper
I'll be honest and say i don't like schrader valves based on the fact they're ugly and look out of place on a bike, saying that i do carry a teeny brass adapter that allows me to use airlines/foot pumps if i'm stuck, never had to use it when out on the bike though.
Go tubeless now you've got the chance - not had a puncture in 4 years but then again i've done sod-all cycling really.
Prestas are too flimsy for [s]mountain biking[/s] the mechanically incompetent
FTFY
Prestas are too flimsy for mountain biking the mechanically incompetent
FTFY
Thanks but even the "Mechanically Competent" have days when it's cold and fingers don't work properly. Or it's dark and things get fumbled. Why stress.
[b]they're ugly[/b]
The male member is a fairly ugly thing but I'd still rather have one that does it's job well over a smaller/weaker one that's more likely to fail to perform in use.
Never had a failure yet, although I can see how certain ham-fisted souls may have a problem......we are talking bout valves ain't we?.
I've always drilled my rims... Never had a problem yet so don't see a reason to change 🙂
Presta valves have a few small advantages over schrader valve and no real disadvantages.
I'd say it's the other way round TBH.
Take a look at, well, any air fork or rear shock. What sort of valve do you see there, ehh?
I've been drilling rims for 20 odd years. It's a TINY fraction of metal that's removed. There's simply no reason not to do it.
I ride so fast that my wheels reach such a high RPM that Schrader valves stand no chance, therefore I use Presta.
Going to have a check on the warranty situation, just to keep myself happy, then get the old drill out like i've done with every other wheelset.
[i]I run tubes, and have no intention of going tubeless at the moment.
[/i]
So why buy Flows?
Are we arguing over [i]tyre valves[/i]?
drill, then fit tubeless schrader valves
Presta valves, for people who can't use a drill.......
[i]God it's just a wee hole.[/i]
No, I think you're thinking of something else.
Are we arguing over tyre valves?
It seems that way.... 🙄
Err if you prefer schrader valves then drill but you'd be better off going tubeless and presta...
Honest question: why do Mavic/DT Swiss/Crank Bros/other proprietary tubeless systems use Presta?
Presta look better, are lighter, easier to spell, easier to get straight in a rim, and easier to get through the valve hole, as well as being easier to deflate, and easier to get a pump on.
Some people don't like presta because they're ham fisted and bend valves occasionally. Easier to blame the valve then themselves.. 😉
Also with presta kids won't nick your fancy dust caps.
Schrader valves.. well.. I suppose if you let a monkey fix your puncture there's a better chance of it coming back okish. If you're really scared that you're going to go out without enough tubes/patches to get you home (and still can't be bothered to take more tubes/patches) and insist on relying on other people, drill your rims. Then use presta (it's what I have on my bmx - schrader holes, presta valves).
Schrader – for ham fisted luddites
Presta – for anal retentive pedants
What niche valve for STWers?
woods
Anyone ride Woods / Dulop valves?
[url= http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunlop_valve ]Wiki link[/url]
Edit: beaten to it
well, Woods is the oldest and since it's also known as "Dunlop" possibly ORIGINAL equipmentWhat niche valve for STWers?
Edit: beaten to it
Edit: beaten to it twice 😳
Presta look better, are lighter, easier to spell, easier to get straight in a rim, and easier to get through the valve hole, as well as being easier to deflate, and easier to get a pump on.Some people don't like presta because they're ham fisted and bend valves occasionally. Easier to blame the valve then themselves..
So you're not ham fisted yet still struggle to get a valve through a valve hole & then also struggle to get it straight when it's through said valve hole.....Hmmmmmmm 8)
So, my question above. Why do manufacturers use Presta valves in their tubeless systems? Is is just because of the removable core?
So, my question above. Why do manufacturers use Presta valves in their tubless systems? Is is just because of the removable core?
All Schrader have removable cores, only some Presta do so I reckon not
Err if you prefer schrader valves then drill but you'd be better off going tubeless and presta...
+1
All Schrader have removable cores
Really?
All Schrader have removable cores
I learned something today!
Really?
yes, really
So, the vote isn't unanimous...
I think I'll just go out and get some presta tubes, run them and it leaves me open to upgrade(?) to tubeless in the future...
You can get schrader tubelss valves, at least from one manufacturer. Bit wide at the base so maybe no good for skinny rims but rock solid once fittedWhy do manufacturers use Presta valves in their tubeless systems? Is is just because of the removable core?
(I wonder if the slightly wider base is the main reason they don't supply routinely as they wouldn't suit everyone's wheels)
I can't believe people are arguing over which is the better valve. (I also can't believe I wasted five minutes of my life reading the responses)
I've always had presta on my bikes but have to admit to never even thinking about why or if Schrader are better.
They're valves, they let me put air in and take air out of my tyres (tubes) End of.
Who makes schrader tubeless valves ?
Joes No Flats rim strips come in Schrader.
For those of us that don't have dainty little fingers.....
If I wanted Schrader tubeless valves, I'd try one of the products aimed at motorbikes [or even cars] before forking out for something aimed at affluent bicycle owners and accordingly over-priced
eg
http://www.mandp.co.uk/products/list/Tyres/Valves-and-Caps
http://www.tyre-equipment.co.uk/acatalog/Rubber_Snap-In_Valves.html
hexhamstu - MemberI ride so fast that my wheels reach such a high RPM that Schrader valves stand no chance, therefore I use Presta.
I know you're kidding, but I had a roadie genuinely try to tell me that schrader wasn't suitable for road bikes because the speed of the wheels meant that the valve ends up getting opened by the centripedal force. So I said, I guess that must be why they use prestas on cars and motorbikes too? And he said yep, definately.
I don't think the OP was concerned about valve type so much as possibly weakening the rim.
Wheel rims tend not to be overly intelligent creatures and don't really know if the manufacturer has drilled them for Presta or Schraeder - they won't know if you have either.
In other words the manufacturer uses the same rim but drills accordingly - or are Schraeder rims really that fraction wider?
Also, check how many rather large holes are in Mr Macaskill's rims - there seems to be plenty meat in reserve in a standard rim.
It was more a case of, should I bother to drill the rim, and carry on with schrader being fat dumb and happy?
Or shall I move back to presta, accept that i'll need an adaptor for my footpump, but retain some option to go to tubeless easily in the future?
I think that the consensus is, there's no right or wrong.
We do all realise that we're talking about a radius of ~1mm here, 1.25mm if you get all extravagant with the drilling out. I'd be concerned if my tubeless system was that precise. The old Stans video used to tell you to drill the inner rim anyhow to make the rim strip sit flat
DEpends what sort of drill is being used , and what sort of muppet is doing the drilling...
If Presta valves scare you, don't even think of drilling; you'll f*ck it up big time.
What's best warm or cold air in my tubes?
somafunk - MemberI'll be honest and say i don't like schrader valves based on the fact they're ugly and look out of place on a bike
As Lionel would say:
[img]
[/img]"And in a very real sense, don't we all occaisionally?".
tinman66 - MemberI can't believe people are arguing over which is the better valve.
Great isn't it?
I LOVE this place sometimes.
Schrader every time. Less faff.
And they use them on motorbikes, which of course makes them cool AND makes your push bike faster.
Got everything together last night, been waiting 3 weeks for the wheels. The wait has meant I've had a new pair of Revelations sitting doing nothing due to changing axle size.
Got the drill out, rims now schrader compatible.
If it wasn't for my rear brake pads being non-existant, i'd have ridden it by now!
bigger hole = weaker rim
bigger hole = weaker rim
😯
bigger hole = weaker rim
That explains why I never snap presta rims. Hang on I never snap schrader ones either. The difference is so small it won't be worth worrying about.
Bigger hole = lighter thought that would be right up some people's street
Has anybody yet mentioned that Presta are more aerodynamic?
Aero-valves?
I see a niche developing...
aracer - Member
Has anybody yet mentioned that Presta are more aerodynamic?
POSTED 6 MINUTES AGO #
At which point of the revolution of the wheel? 🙂
Shirley a de-valved Schrader will inflate quicker than de-valved presta? It may only be 1mm or so but that a much better air flow and maybe even gunk up less.
I didnt even knwwo you could get Schrader tubless valves but Im now thinking of getting some so I dont need adaptors when using my compressor.
Presta come with a screw down lock ring that secures the valve in the hole. I've had several schrader tubes ripped at the valve through impact or tube movement. Not had that with Presta. Drilling aluminium can create a lot of difficult to remove burrs that can cause punctures. Carry a spare tube, a repair kit, and a hand pump that has a tiny adapter in the handle. No problem. It's up to you, innit. But take a drill to your nice new rims rather than buy a couple of inner tubes - really?
You can get schraders that screw down to the rim as well...
I don't understand what kind of "impact" would effect schrader but not presta, and I've never had tubes move in the tyre...
the most annoying thing I find with presta, is that tubeless they get gunked up with goo, then when you try to unscrew the valve cap, you take the whole core out. that is proper annoying. I might consider the schraeder tubeless valves. Has anyone used them?
roadie ? presta : schrader;
conan- I think he means when the tyre spins as its too big for your rim & it rips the valve off, would still happen if it was screwed on or not.
The screw-down collar is to prevent the valve pushing into the tyre when you inflate, not to stop it twisting...
Fair enough, I didn't know that.You can get schraders that screw down to the rim as well...
I don't understand what kind of "impact" would effect schrader but not presta, and I've never had tubes move in the tyre...
Ever had a branch caught in the wheel that ripped the valve? I guess not. Just trying to help mate - drill the rims if you wanna.
[url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/new-wheels-to-drill-or-not-to-drill-presta-vs-schrader/page/2#post-4126608 ]Yes, me[/url]theendisnigh - Member
I might consider the schraeder tubeless valves. Has anyone used them?
... I had a roadie genuinely try to tell me that schrader wasn't suitable for road bikes because the speed of the wheels meant that the valve ends up getting opened by the centripedal force. So I said, I guess that must be why they use prestas on cars and motorbikes too?
Valves on motor vehicles normally stick out sideways, they don't point at the wheel centre like what they do on a bike.
Drill it - about 20mm diameter drill should do it. Then fit a blanking plug to take it down to 8mm for a presta valve. Carry a spare schrader tube to keep everyone else happy.
I guess you could argue that drilling the rim will weaken it, but you'll be hard pushed to find someone who has kinked the rim at the valve.
Choice is yours but I would find out what is covered by the warranty before you drill........