[Closed] New Trek Stache 29+

thing is I am a fair bit heavier than you blokes, when riding it out of the saddle, the rear tyre was rubbing on the chainstay every rotation.
nice bike, but like I said, not for me.

Hmm... you are big, but there's a lot of bigger 'Clydes' over there in the US who report no issues

So, what size wheels/tyres, what length CS?

*defense mode*

@clobber - they are Yari's. Currently 120mm, going to extend them to 140mm I think.. good fork, stiff, well damped, not light 😉

29+ Was a Manitou Trk special based on the std Manitou 29er fork. Very light, very adjustable, bit too complex for me 😉

the model i tested was the 29+ with manitou forks, they too were pretty flexy fore and aft. the pikes that were on my enduro felt like a proper strong tough for in comparison.

^ Oh that explains it then

The rigid 5 isn't flexy

I had a Stache 5, wasn't a fan of the plus tyres, so added a suspension fork and normal tyres.
[url= https://flic.kr/p/FvTG6s ]Can't get pic's to work[/url]
It rode a treat but my head was turned by the Cromag Rootdown BA, so I sold the Trek frame and forks on, only to find Shorelines were not bringing the Rootdown in 😥
Luckily a Stache 7 frame showed up on ebay, so we're back in business!
[url= https://flic.kr/p/HhcoF9 ]Still can't get pic's to work![/url]
It's a nice bike, poppy and fun whilst in the woods and really not bad at the boring flat bits to get there either. I might try plus tyres again at some point as I think it was the Chupacabras specifically rather than plus in general that I didn't like, not sure what it would bring that could take me away from a 2.5" Minion though.

not sure what it would bring that could take me away from a 2.5" Minion though.

[url= http://www.bikerumor.com/2016/03/14/tpe16-maxxis-digs-high-roller-ii-minion-plus-sizes-27-5-x-3-8-minion-fat-bike-tires/ ]How about a 29x3 Minion...???[/url]

Yeah, I've seen them, interesting but the 2.5" weighs in about 1kg which I think is about my limit for tyre weight. If the 3" has Exo sidewalls which I think it needs to keep the casing stiff, then it's surely gonna weigh a ton?

but think of the grip...!

True! Would probably allow horizontal cornering 😀 Just brings back memories of Nokian Gazzalodi's (I've got one in the garage!), horrid things!

Right mine's finished! From the standard '9', now running Scraper 27.5 Rims with a Bridger and a Rekon, wider bars, shorter stem, XT rather than SRAM cassette (but still sram shifters/mech) and a Yari fork just extended to 140mm. I absolutely love it.

[url= https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8891/28339266921_3dd3d09b61_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8891/28339266921_3dd3d09b61_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/Kbf9Jn ]Enlongened Chubby![/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexleigh/ ]Alex Leigh[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8588/28339222781_4e57f66f46_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8588/28339222781_4e57f66f46_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/KbeVBk ]Enlongened Chubby![/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexleigh/ ]Alex Leigh[/url], on Flickr

Just taken a stache 5 2016 out for first ride, stock, still with inner tubes, at 12psi and 85kg my weight... I find I am constantly fighting the steering; is this normal or do I need to change pressure / ditch tubes? The only other times I have felt this on other bikes is on a full suss with either front / rear shock at wrong pressure and the geometry way out or a fork that was too long / wrong offset???! have ridden fully rigid bikes before, this is replacing a kona unit which is dialled and runs on rails. this is my first bike with g2 geo. otherwise its great, did my first mini jump and still grinning from ear to ear, as was after first descent where instead of avoiding the sand pits I just blasted over them, even on a corner while modulating brakes. 🙂 😉 😉

[url= http://www.vitalmtb.com/videos/features/Cam-McCaul-and-the-29-Challenge,32246/sspomer,2 ]Seem pretty capable bikes![/url] (Cam McCaul content)

I'm 71kg and also running 12psi, I'd say you're running too low.

I was initially underwhelmed with my stock 5

It's now 'the one' 😉

What size is your 5? I'm 89Kg's and run 10 front (Maxxis Chronicle) and 11 rear (27.5 Bridger on Scraper)

went for 18.5 virtual, will try a bit more pressure today, swaped the stem round put bar in right position and tightened skewers (no my lbs did not...) lets see. Am not underwhelmed, but do not like a bike I cannot sit up no hands on in principle, a good bike should be balanced imo

Agreed - I needed to make some adjustments to get balanced - layback post, shorter (went to 60) stem, wider, higher bars (Stooge Moto 800 wide with rise and backsweep) to give a more upright position

Other thing I run B+ rear with CS's slammed at 16" which makes the bike turn quicker/faster/easier as well as lowering the rear/BB a tad

Mine's 21.5 and is super fast (and 'light') when in the flow

Keep tweaking

I keep looking at the 5 if anyone spots one sub £1k and in small give me the heads up, looks perfect for my winter bike!

lesuire lakes has them £1040, but only smaller sizes cannot remember how much in head for the hills in Dorking, evans has them £1100 in all sizes.

next task: tubeless wondering whether to tape direct or over rim tape

Just picked up a 2016 Stache 5, sick of reading this bloody thread and I have caved in.

I've ordered some Sun 48mm tape from CRC (tape has mixed reviews), and I think I have some valves lying around. I understand you tape over the rim strips, cborrman.

I'm going to take it out in the woods tonight after dark, so nobody will laugh at me. I'm 5'10 and went 18.5/17.5, car park test says it feels as short as in like it to feel, might want a layback post (don't think I'll be sticking a dropper on it)...

And even more importantly, just found the Palmdale lock-on come in new Minty Green 🙂

http://www.jungleproducts.co.uk/shop/product/palmdale-grip/540/

I have bought clear gorilla tape for £5 something in hardware store... am very, very tempted to tape direct so I can see status of sealant inside 🙂

next upgrades are:

carbon thomson flat bar
specialized -12' or -16' stem to get front end down
XO crank with oval absolute black rings so can change between 28t and 32t without removing crank...
either a one-up 42t or convert to 11 speed with a new rear wheel (original will keep for single speed), me thinks will go with one up for now

Why do you want the front end down?

I had a play in the woods last night, probably the most I've liked a new bike ever.

It's definitely short, but the front end comes up so easily: it feels very light and really playful. I'm sure it's slower, but the tyres don't feel remotely draggy. Coming in this morning, came up a climb at the end of Heaton Park where traction on a normal bike is limited. My only concern on the Stache was snapping the chain, just grip, grip, grip...

Stuck a layback Thomson on just now, prefer the extra room. See the new carbon frames are longer for the same given size. Already see a carbon frame and suspension forks 12 months from now as my main bike, will keep the 5 as a winter bike.

Just a lot of fun. Don't think the other bikes will be out much for a while.

@bonesetter I am not quite a eurowhippet but do prefer a lower front end with all 29ers, and the stache is a good few cm higher than the kona unit 29er its replacing. will not quite extend to reverse bull bars tho 🙂

+1 on the traction, I had a 2009 then 2011 stumpy FSR for the traction with the brain shock / fork - this just does it better with plain ole tyres and "No Shox" lol.

Grip in the dry is obscene.
I never thought I'd ever be able to get up this climb and only know of one person who's cleaned it (it carrys on after this a bit slacker then kicks you again at the top) but a few months ago it dawned on me that I might be able to do it on the Stache.
Yes I'm probably stronger than I've ever been but I wouldn't be contemplating it on my standard 29er hardtail.

[url= https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8051/29183649874_4acb3a8e02_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8051/29183649874_4acb3a8e02_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/LsRQn9 ]Little Roseberry[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/tomlevell/ ]Tom Levell[/url], on Flickr

Currently I've ridden every bit but not in one go. The last try was 10m shy of the slacker bit where I could get a rest before tackling the top section which I can do on other bikes.

Winter will either be on the normal bike or maybe get a normal boost rear wheel to fit a normal winter tyre to.

that'll be those "goat suckers" 😀

Super pic tom

Just ordered the Stache 7, ive been thinking it over and over, going between a Fuse or Stache 7 £1350 at evans its a bit of a bargain and I can always get smaller wheels 650b, unlike the fuse I can't run them bigger.

Went for the small frame, hoping its not too small, but looking at measurements its bigger than my full sus. Will post a pic when I get it!

Does anyone know if the raceface aefect crank has a 30mm or 24mm spindle on stache 5?

It's a 24mm.

thanks Daffy

10 months now with my stache 5 and novelty has not worn off. Other bikes gathering dust and spiders.

Like someone above I found the front end too high with stock setup. Right between frame sizes so I sized up and now run a 50 mm 6 degree stem inverted and one spacer. Took a while to find a fit I was happy with mind you!

Done about 2500 miles on mine now and on the third bottom bracket (pf92) but easy to replace.

You got to watch the rear wheel flex though under load... Chainline in the highest couple of gears is not ideal which causes rear end to flex. Was getting a little bit of rub on one of the stays so dished the wheel a tad over to compensate.

glad you also felt high, I am using the specialized comp stem which comes with various shims so I can play with stem think I am at -16 to start with 😉

interesting re flex, is that with stock 36t or are you using something bigger like a 42t conversion cog?

No stock. Problem is not in the low gears, only the high (11 and 13 tooth sprockets on rear). Look down at the rear tyre and then stomp on pedals..... You will see the flex (ridden 3 staches and they all do it).

I am a stomper not a spinner so I notice it more.

The chainline at the extreme end of the rear cassette is pretty bad due to the boost hub. Not really an issue and all frames flex to some extent. Just in my case the rear wheel dish was biases towards one stay so needed to re dish just to the right of centre. No more rubbing (and bike now tracks straight with no hands on the bar).

anyone fitted a 42t on the rear yet?

I gave in an ordered a 2017 Stache 5 last night. Should hopefully be at the shop by the weekend according to Trek 🙂

Running a carbon Lefty on my 5 at the moment. Pics to follow.

Aweosme! Chunky can't wait to see that! Bet it rides brilliantly. What lefty / hub you go for.... Need details 🙂

Slow bloke.... Great choice. Shame though trek have dropped the rigid 5 for 2017. Looking at the 2017 version, looks like apart from the squishy forks, the rims have changed from mulefuts to duroc's. Geo looks the same pretty much (2016 5 was 5mm longer in the ETT than the 7 and 9 versions).

Cborrman nope I have not but it will work fine. The deore shadow medium cage deraileur supplied on the 5 will take 37t (same slx and xt medium cages)

Rear derailleur capacity is calculated as biggest rear cog – smallest cog + biggest front chainring – smallest chainring.

42-11 + 32 - 32 = 31t

Hardest tyre/rim combo I've ever tried to set up tubeless: tried them dry, rubbed with Stans, soapy water, re-seated using a tube and so on. I got so frustrated I went out and bought the £80 compressor from Aldi (I wanted one anyway), and I'm not sure I'd have popped it without.

Couple of points for those that haven't done the conversion yet:

1. My rims were already taped, thanks Trek 🙂
2. You need tubeless valves with threads right to the bottom of the valve
3. I tried Stans valves, but couldn't get them tight enough. Bought some Specialized Royal valves which have a square base inside the rim and easy to grip while you tighten the valve nut and they are only £3 each)
4. They are on now, but four scoops of Stans in each and they are still leaking from the bead. More Stans, and a few more pedals around the doors should hopefully do it
5. The tubes are seriously heavy, I reckon I've lost 2lb off the bike. Maybe.
6. Those Aldi compressors, in a small garage, are ****in noisy

All compressors in a small garage are noisy - especially if you workshop is metal!

Was the difficulty on the 2016 Mulefut or the 2017 Duroc? I'm considering asking the bike shop it's being delivered to just to go straight ahead and set itup tubless if it's the 2017 ones 😆

I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who's ridden a Stache and a Jones Plus, and how they compare.

I'm looking for a deal on a 19,5 now, can be a 5, 7 or 9 but they seem thin on the ground at the moment.

Anyone seen a good deal at the mo?

Bream - Member
I'm looking for a deal on a 19,5 now, can be a 5, 7 or 9 but they seem thin on the ground at the moment.

Anyone seen a good deal at the mo?

2016 models very thin on the ground as far as I could see. Not many dealers seems to have the 2017 but they can all get it fairly quickly but there isn't much (anything?) in the way of deals to be had that I could see.

Think I've found one now, just need to seal the deal 😉

[i]futon river crossing - Member
I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who's ridden a Stache and a Jones Plus, and how they compare.[/i]

That's a tough request

However, I can let you know after (hopefully if I can the Plus built up in time) tonight

I put a 9.8 carbon together for a customer this morning, it's a very nice bike.

@slowbloke It is the Mulefut rims.

Air/latex seemed to be holding for a day or two, but as of this morning it's now pissing out of the holes in the rims, under the tubeless tape and rim tape. Suspect I'll have to put more layers of tape on to set again.

Continually finding this thread annoying - still got just over a month till I'm home from Turkey and I'm riding my Superfly here, with a 650b+ Yari-forked Stache 5 sat at home in the UK, waiting for me to hop on! There's not much I want to leave Turkey for, but that and some GOOD singletrack is enough of a reason!

Great to read about peoples choices/experiments too.

I am the resurrection (I really am). Tubeless should not be that hard dude. My mulefuts on the stache were piss easy to set up. Couple wraps of duct tape (standard bonty valves) and a track pump was all I needed to seat the chupacabrabbbbbbs. Lube up the bead..... Get decent gorilla tape (find it better than stans) run right up to the bead lip but don't overlap.

^ I'm sure you're right, I've always used tubeless specific rims before now so never had to tape. I've done a lot of swearing.

The rims were pre-taped by Trek and I reckon the problem in my case is the bead is just a bit too loose on the Chupacabras, an extra couple of layers of tape would probably be better. I didn't want to though in case I wanted to put tyres on for winter which might (or might not) come with a much tighter bead...

If the next tyres I try are still very loose, then I'll get some more tape on there (I've got some Sun 48mm tape already, mixed reviews).

I am going to try today to set up tubeless, hope pre-taped???

leaking at the bead is usually in my experience one of following:

1) dirty rim 🙂 you should be ashamed lol

2) dirty tyre bead - easy solution

3) molding imperfections in tyre - sand down

4) tyre not fully seated - inflate higher PSI and bounce tyre

compressors are awful - use a track pump with a tank, like the specialized Air Tool Blast Tubeless Tire Setter or if stuck a co2 canister (remember to then let all air out as co2 allegedly does not play nice with latex

FWIW Gorilla Clear Repair Tape is better than regular Gorilla Tape IME - cloth-back tapes absorb the sealant and it breaks-down the glue.

+1 vote for clear gorilla, its also waaaaaaay lighter!

I tried this last week on my farley and I'm buggered if I can get the tyres back up as they are so loose on the rims that I cannot seat them. That's with a track pump, no chance, and an airshot.

I've seen adverts over there > for the new maxxis ranger 29+ tyre, but it only seems to be in the states at the moment....any uk dealers, or real world experience of them? They say they are for wet/mud/loam (whatever that is!)

Just ridden mine round Cannock and think it's time to consider something more grippy than the Chupacabras for winter.

For those still trying to hunt down the last of the rigid Stache 5s, Swinnerton Cycles (bike chase) have two in there in 18.5 and 17.5.

I'm currently finding my Maxxis Chronicle front, and Vee Rubber Trax Fatty on the back combo pretty good in wet and slippy conditions.

Thanks AJ, hadn't seen the Vee's.

New toy in waiting for me, a mate picked it up yesterday and I'll fetch it next week. Rather excited at the prospect 😀

[img] [/img]

Hey that's my pic + dog must be copyrighted some where

Stop moaning, you rode my new bike before I did 😯

So, I rode my Stache 5 (3 days at Afan) and it's a hoot but, if I was doing it again I'd buy a 7. The 5 comes with Alivio brakes with extremely bulky levers and the Deore 1x10 shifter has an indicator window meaning it is almost impossible to get the layout of the bars right for me. The stem is on the long side and looks cheap and nasty which doesn't exactly inspire confidence. It also has non lockon grips that rotate on their own. As for the Manitou Machete Comp fork - it is incredibly flexy and seems to lack compression damping in any meaningful amount.

So, one KS Lev Integra (I got for a bargain), a set of lockon grips (I had hanging around), a 50mm stem (I had hanging around), a replacement cover plate for the shifter and some deore brakes later it's getting there. But, it's cost and extra few hundred quid.

I'm not sure what to do about the forks as yet - I might try some heavier oil before I ditch them for a pair of Pikes.

Yeah, but the 5 is a better colour and cheaper. With all the money you saved, you can spec the bejesus out of it.

Mines now sub 24lbs with a Magnum Pro fork.

I've got the older Stache 5 with a yari fork fitted. It's 130mm travel and just feels a little 'boaty'. Another thing that highlights the way it feels is that, if I go no-handed it doesn't feel stable. Dead upright, the bike is fine, as soon as it leans a little, it won't steer back. I'm used to a bike I could happily ride no handed for k's!

The closest I can come is to say it feels a little like my old jump bike that's not designed to have more than a 100mm travel fork fitted, and felt like steering a boat when I (briefly) fitted a 120mm fork.

Would swapping in a 120mm air shaft help this?

(otherwise, it's a great bike, I just think 130mm might be too much for the frame geo)

My theory on the odd feeling riding no handed is the integral cabling. It's pretty rigid. If you ride along with your hands hanging over the bars and touch the cables you can feel them pulsing as you pedal.

Yours does it with a 100/110mm travel fork on? Mine was put together separately, so it's not all standard cabling. Can't feel that 'pulsing'.

Paper cut.... In my opinion the frame geo is optimised for around 100mm.

I have a 5 fitted originally with the carbon rigid forks with an axle to crown dimension of 495 mm.

The magnum pro that I fitted have an axle to crown dimension of 530mm so running 20mm sag, with 100mm travel, that's still means the front end is higher by 15mm.

To compensate I flipped the stem and I am back at my preferred setup.

I tried the forks at 110mm and the front was far too high and felt like a boat. In my opinion, 130 mm travel will be crazy.

After shortening the forks to 100mm my 5 is perfect.

Running 100mm Lefty on mine. Feels good.

The tubes are really heavy. Leaning the bike over or riding no-handed was improved immeasurably once I went tubeless and lost the rotating weight. .

I'm already tubeless.

Ok, interesting stuff there guys, I'm not surprised tbh, if anyone knows where you can get air shafts for Yari's, I'll probably drop the travel.

I bought the bike as-is though, I'm already well aware of how easy it is to throw geo out - could be an easy fix!

Yours does it with a 100/110mm travel fork on? Mine was put together separately, so it's not all standard cabling. Can't feel that 'pulsing'.

No with rigid forks. It's not very pronounced but just a slightly odd feeling I've got used to.
Tubeless as well.

I run my 27.5 version with a 140mm Yari 🙂 Works for me.

I have the posh Manitou fork that came with the 9. I didn't find it particularly flexy (although the Yari is stiffer), I just couldn't set it up the way I wanted. A mate has bought a 7 in 29+ config and he loves it. We're going to ride mine and his back to back on the same trails to see how different they feel.

If I really prefer 27.5+, I'll sell the 29+ on but it'll be an interesting/fun exercise anyway.

Oh and you can get air shafts from CRC I think. Sprung http://www.sprungsuspension.com in the FoD sorted me. Give Jake a call, he'll help you out.

Alex, how much would you want for the Manitou?

I just got a 5 which I've tweaked a bit (it's now on full XT and I've bunged a 40mm stem and 785mm bar with 35mm clamp on, which should be fun).

I'd like to get a suspension fork for it that works with the non boost wheel. Research suggests Fox 34s are the ticket for this but a normal Manitou Minute looks to have masses of room. Has anyone tried this set up? Don't mind a small amount of dremelling.

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Any British experience of the WTB Ranger 29x3.0?
They are out there, and look like a decent tyre........for the gloop and clay though?

Failing that, I've read that you can fit a 2.3 on the mulefut rim......anyone had a dabble with that?

I have the ranger 3.0 as a front. Not tried it in the slop yet. DO have a Rekon in reserve if it's terrible. Hopefully the Bridger/Ranger combo will see me through the winter. Really don't want to spend any more money on chubby tyres.

I reckon a 2.3 on a 50mm rim might have a less than optimal profile...