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As the title states my chain slips under load. Ive installed a new derailleur and im pretty sure ive tuned it in well. My cassette does have a few peened burrs but i think that the over state is good. My chain is brand new.
it doesnt seem to do it as much in the granny ring. Is this the culprit - do i need new chainrings.
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Middle ring is fubar'd cassette may or maynot be part of the problem.
Outer ring looks very worn in that picture.Teeth look pointed.
How worn was the chain when you changed it,if it was very worn,you would have needed to replace, chain,casette and chain rings
and probably a new cassette
Yep, ring's had it. Cassette probably isn't in the best of shape either.
Cassette looks ok to me....
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You need a new chainring PDQ.
As matter of course, the chainring should be replaced along with the cassette and chain.
That cassette will certainly start giving probs soon even if not the culprit right now, and will certainly lead to quicker wear on the new chain. New changring and cassette time...
Casette isnt looking that good,You can see that the the teeth are more pointed and the internal shape of the teeth is getting elongated
2nd Chainring needs replacing for sure! Cassette isn't as bad, but I'd replace it otherwise your chain will wear a little quicker.
If the old chain, cassette and chainring were all running together from new, you quite likely need new jockey wheels on your mech too.
What cods...
You cant run a new chain on an old cassette.
Get a new cassette before you mess your new chain up on it.
Middle ring too, but they are not usually as fussy as the cassettes.
Some people do run up to 3 new chains on 1 cassette but they are changing the chain as soon as hits its wear limit (thats pretty fast), go beyond that and its new cassette every time.
Damn tinsy hit that nail on that head. It's a process of elimination and the main culprit when a new chain has been applied is the cassette. Don't be a tight arse
+1 cakeface, I just replaced chain + cassette and couldn't believe how worn the jockey wheels were.My son actually managed to wear a shimano jockey wheel to a complete disc with no teeth visible at all! His idea of maintenance is however to leave his bike at my house in the hope I will fix anything wrong. I am of course now worrying whether I should have replaced the middle chain ring as well!
The problem is that the the old chain stretched with use. The teeth on rings and sprockets wear to
when you apply a new chain its too short. Most of the load ends on the first loaded tooth, rather than the load spread out over many teeth. This means jumping and an even higher wear rate
lucky i had Richards bicycle book when I was 12
Slight thread hijack. I have been having major ghost shifting/ slipping on my C456 and have just replaced the wheels, chain, cassette , chainrings and still getting shifting/ slipping issues. Cables are new also. Dialled in fantastic. Then fitted a new SLX shadow mech this week. Stiffer shifting to the XT normal mech it replaced and very snappy and accurate. First ride out and again the gears just looses itself. Driving me nuts. Caused me a nasty accident, where it slipped previously last year and threw me over the bars and took 6 months for my knee to recover, so very dubious about riding it. Any ideas ? The only thing I havent changed is the XT shifter. The components were on a Trek EX bike previously and also created the same issues. Cant see it being a shifter, but who knows?
Thrustyjust - are your cables long enough? Ie when turning the bars it doesn't pull the outers away from their socket at the shifter or the frame!
Shortcut, the bars are in a straight plane, usually when I am powering up a hill ETC. It is something I will look at later. It really is random when it does it, maybe 2 or 3 times a ride..... cheers
thrustyjust, when you say new wheels do you mean jockey wheels in the mech?
Might be the freewheel slipping in the hub..
edit, the more I read your issues, the more it sounds like the freewheel..
Ghost shifting is usually down to cables having outers too short, usually on a fs bike. Otherwise it is something else - my thought would be to check the chain very carefully for a slightly stiff link, chainrings for burrs, bending or contamination and sprockets for the same.
Double check your cables are tight and right.
Aside for a slipping free hub (fairly unlikely), what else is it going to be.
Check everything 3 times and clean the chain thoroughly to get ride of sticky horrible grease and put good quality lube on it.
Chain degreased ( sram) , expensive one piece cables, new wheels ( goldtec hubs) New rear mech ( 3 miles old now) New cassette ( sram) , use Finishline dry lube, but dont like it like the old stuff, but used to do it on the old stuff as well. I do like to power up climbs, which seems to be its downfall and makes everything crunch gears and jump the cassette, somehow..........Now having to sit and spin...
Check every link in the chain especially the quicklink. I had one which was very slightly twisted on a new chain, it caused ghost shifting, chain suck and the chain broke at that point 3 times in one ride. Replaced the quick link and ask problems solved.
I dont use quick links. Join the chain without and make sure it is free to move. Keep the quicklinks incase I break a chain, which I havent for a while, usually end up on mates bikes.
You can't visually tell if cassette is good or not. If the gears are jumping after fitting a new chain 9 times out of10 its the cassette.
If you catch the chain at the right time you can usually get around 3 chains out of a cassette.
My money is on a stiff link.
You can buy power links separately you know!!
Change chain as soon as its showing wear (using a Park chain tool), by this method you can usually get 3-4 chains per middle ring/cassette/jockey wheels - which for most folk on here is probably years... 😉
And just buy the basic SRAM chain.