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Used to race DH, my brain cant handle bikes without some kind of chainguide!
The Oneup bash guide is good and iscg05. Got one on both bikes - no matter what I’ve done I haven’t lost a chain in 3 years - and its saved the chain / chainring from rocks a few times. Other than that you don’t notice it’s there and it doesn’t add any drag / much weight
Was looking at the above picture and thinking "is that enough clearance on the cranks/swingarm?"
So did checking and reading and went back in to check. I do think it's enough, fine. But then on checking closer on the drive side I noticed that the protrusion for the granny ring actually rubs the pivot bearing cover. So that's that, the gxp is back on again.
Grind off the granny ring tabs?
It's an option yes. I'll see how long the gxp BB lasts but I would like the 170 cranks on for sure.
This is the non-drive side with the Raceface setup on it... It's close.. but i guess as long as it's not touching anything then close is OK ?
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49387833868_c774f8d814_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49387833868_c774f8d814_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ifeyn3 ]2020-01-15_07-28-00[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
This is the SRAM that's standard.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49387832248_3a753ef7f6_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49387832248_3a753ef7f6_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ifexT7 ]2020-01-15_07-27-20[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
The drive side is further away on both setups (ignoring the granny tabs that is)
Both tyres setup Tubeless now. Didn't like the tread on the WTB Riddler for winter slop, so put a brand new WTB Trail Boss in there which is my usual tyre. Happily both wheels were taped with Stans tape, although one of the valve holes was a little rubbish so i taped a bit of that area just in case. We'll see how they stay up etc. 🙂
Took the bike to Swinley today for some old school xc/trail stuff, also to set up the Shockwiz which based upon its settings I wanted way more air in thank expected even with the volume spacers installed.
But as you can see, it seems happy now.
The bike was just fantastic, I was expecting a downside on xc rides but I just didn't see any at all, we did a few runs on Corkscrew which is a fun little trail and bury the dog which is tight and twisty, but it was fantastic. My mate who owns a t130 tried it a few times and loved the bike too and may have a dilemma now ha ha.
Where it came into its own though was the later blues that it just flies down and launches itself off the jumpy bits with such ease it's ridiculous. You carry more doors, more air, more distance but it feels like a stroll in the park.
It could be argued when people say these big bikes just smooth out the trail and take away the technicality of it, I kinda get what they're saying. But that doesn't have to be a bad thing, it just means you can attack things more and harder.
But things I'd look at previously and give 2 thoughts to, now become irrelevant.
One downside I guess, noisy brakes, god they're horrific. It's stops you pulling them as they squeal too much,!!!
I had a couple of pedal strikes, but I'm sure the 170 cranks that arrived earlier today will help there too
All in all, I love it!!!!
You’re going faster coz you’re not using the brakes lol... told you they were good. Sold mine to replace it with a carbon G170 last year but honestly I still miss it!
I'm honestly blown away by it. The confidence it inspires is just remarkable. Even though it's only 12 months newer than the t,130 it replaced it's like a next generation thing going on, a complete step up in class. Of course, in s component context nothing is mind blowingly better than the t130, but the overall package just gives me so much more of what I want from it.
Massive thanks to you guys for telling me to get one, I almost pulled out at one stage of it
Honestly.. I can't think of a bike with better geometry from 2017..other than maybe a mondraker or alpine 6.
Such such underrated beasts
Right there with you! Don’t get much time on mine due to two pesky young kids getting in the way, but loving it when I do....
Pm me if you want that 170 air shaft weeksy - it’s just sat in toolbox drawer doing nowt at the moment...
Thanks Tim. Not sure I need it mate, throw it on eBay and make some beer money.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49418635271_6f90a65e13_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49418635271_6f90a65e13_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ihXqxH ]2020-01-21_10-00-38[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
170mm cranks installed 🙂
Just out of interest are those cranks on a DUB BB or GXP ?
GXP.
I have a set of 175 GXP Descendant for sale for £50 in immaculate condition if that's where you're going 😉
Thank you for the info - but no, I wasn't hinting !
I was looking for some alternatives to my Shimanos in 170 or 165mm but could only find SRAM direct mount chainring types (NX or GX) in DUB BB's but yours looked to be GXP so I just need to look harder ?
The G160 was on fine form
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49438930448_e1243e551c_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49438930448_e1243e551c_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ijKrAy ]2020-01-25_03-40-37[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
The wife did awesomely well on the new Liv E-embolden ! First proper time out there.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439403271_0ba6174954_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439403271_0ba6174954_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ijMS9F ]2020-01-25_03-40-42[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
and of course, there was cake !!!
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439403461_5875625e8a_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49439403461_5875625e8a_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ijMScX ]2020-01-25_03-40-46[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
The G160 went to Bike Park Wales yesterday and was absolutely superb. Just as good the day before at Afan too. Didn't notice any climbing issues but wasn't exactly flying up.
I did notice my red donut on the shock was pinned to the bottom yesterday but we were jumping lots and I'm not exactly small. But anyway I added 3 more spacers in the shock, now making it 7 in there and added 10psi to see if that stood it. But in its defence, I didn't actually notice it bottoming out etc, if it was, it wasn't a problem.
The SRAM Guide brakes were a bit soft on the lever yesterday, even though they're at max reach point, not back to the bars, but soft anyway, so will get an avid bleed kit as mine are all Shimano and don't want to cross contaminate etc.
Overall though, the bike along with the Swinley skills area and Jedi training have transformed my riding from where I was 12 months ago.
I’d take the 10PSi back out for now, unless it was sagging too much. Always best to change one variable at a time so you can see what’s changing
Mmm it's a fair point yes.
It can be tricky though to ask suspension to work well in 2 totally different environments, e.g xc riding and bpw rides, obviously to an extent you want them to handle a bit differently for both.?
Was playing at Swinley with my boy today, sessioning Babymaker jumps at Swinley, still bottoming out the rear shock sadly. That's with 6 spacers in and 210psi now. Bike rides lovely but it would be nice not to bottom it out all the time.
Bike rides lovely but it would be nice not to bottom it out all the time.
Put more air in the shock or eat fewer pies then.
Question time, if I were to replace the shock, I'm currently on a 216 * 63 according to Whyte specs. Does that mean I need to replace with same?
I'll try more yes, I'm a big lad and I get the impression from others that it's not uncommon on these shocks.
Does that mean I need to replace with same?
Yes, ideally.
Thank you. I'll go in search.
What aircan do you have on the shock... Is it a fox shock or (presumably) a monarch with piggyback.
Have you considered a smaller volume aircan as that should help with the bottoming out issue.
Either that or just increase the air pressure a little... I used to run mine at 325psi to get it feeling good.
The maximum pressure is normally on a sticker on the shock - are you at or close to it? If not, add more air.. if it's the stock G160s with the Monarch RT Debonair I think the max pressure is 350psi (but check!) so you have a way to go yet.
Took the bike to Swinley today for some old school xc/trail stuff, also to set up the Shockwiz
Hopefully this doesn't need saying, but... doing XC/trail stuff vs jumps etc. is going to require different set ups to be optimal.
Hopefully this doesn’t need saying, but doing XC/trail stuff vs jumps etc. is going to require different set ups to be optimal.
Of course, I get that. But until I find a setting at the jumpy end, I can't really settle on an in-between or even a pair of softer and harder. I'm happy to run it on the jumpy side at the moment, my outright xc pace isn't important at the moment, so setting it up for jumpy is the preferred option.
Yeah it's the monarch debonair, which if you're correct then yes, I have loads of pressure left to add, I'll throw more in tomorrow when I'm back in the garage
Bear in mind that as you increase the pressure you may need to decrease the amount of bands or you may find that the shock will ramp up too quickly and feel harsh... Never know.. It may be exactly what you want for general riding and the jumping. Just don't be too hasty in replacing the shock... Money would be far better spent on getting it tuned if the increase in pressure/smaller can/more or less bands doesn't work
I weigh 62kg and use 6 bands - get more in there
You are meant to bottom out shocks when you land bigger jumps and drops (for you). Is is bottoming our so hard that it feels bad or blows your feet off?
Nope. It feels bloody ace.
I always thought you'd want a little bit left?
You are meant to bottom out shocks when you land bigger jumps and drops (for you).
There’s no jumps / drops on babymaker which should be bottoming out a shock though. Unless you are sending the Wilkins Leap the biggest feature is a pretty mellow tabletop.
I'll fit the Shockwiz in 2 weeks time when we're next out on proper stuff and see what it's reporting. I'd rather not spend money on a shock as I probably need a dropper for the wife's bike, but that's a whole other discussion thread potentially
I found shockwiz on the g160 never detected bottom outs or hard hits correctly, (forgotten what they call it in the app) it always wanted less pressure and less volume spacers even when is was bottoming on smaller hits and harshly on heavy hits.
I did find it good for dynamic sag (balance between sag, compression and rebound damping) especially when just using it for say a really tough section of trail.
I think its because progressive in the first 2/3 and regressive at the end of the stroke so it was always trying to soften the middle of the shock travel for the average of the ride.
So if you are going to use shockwiz on it I would try it for the damping side of things but the spring side do what feels better and see how you get on.
It’s interesting - we’ve just done the exact opposite of each other. You’ve gone 130mm ish trail bike to longer travel enduro and I’ve just gone from 170f/160mmr travel to 140f/130r.
I’ve had one go at setting suspension up and think the fork is probably bang on already - but it’s rear suspension that I find harder. Not bottoming out at Cwmcarn on some reasonable size hits but maybe it’s a little firm to start with but slightly rushes through the mid travel. Think I need to up the pressure and lose a token to control the midrange but will be interesting to see if that makes it too harsh over smaller stuff.
So far I’m loving it - definitely made climbing easier and tips into corners easier but I haven’t got anything big enough to test how compromised it is on rock gardens / bigger drop offs etc.
Get the rest of the spacers from the bag and more air in to your current shock before fretting about buying a new one or upgrade to yours:
Get a pack of RockShox volume spacers and put them all in. Mine needed it to feel anything like reasonable, as the leverage ratio is actually regressive:
http://linkagedesign.blogspot.com/2015/08/whyte-g-160-275-2016.html
It’s interesting – we’ve just done the exact opposite of each other. You’ve gone 130mm ish trail bike to longer travel enduro and I’ve just gone from 170f/160mmr travel to 140f/130r.
I’ve had one go at setting suspension up and think the fork is probably bang on already – but it’s rear suspension that I find harder. Not bottoming out at Cwmcarn on some reasonable size hits but maybe it’s a little firm to start with but slightly rushes through the mid travel. Think I need to up the pressure and lose a token to control the midrange but will be interesting to see if that makes it too harsh over smaller stuff.
So far I’m loving it – definitely made climbing easier and tips into corners easier but I haven’t got anything big enough to test how compromised it is on rock gardens / bigger drop offs etc.
I think from my side it's been a game changer, but that's because 90% of my rides at the moment are more tech than they once would have been. The only XC/local ride i've done in the last 3-4 months was down the canal from Bath to Newbury, which i did on the 29er HT. The rest have been tech riding instead.
There's also the fact that currently, XC speed isn't of importance to me at all. Strava is being used to log miles but that's about it. The speed/race side of things isn't playing a factor at all as i'm riding with the 11 year old, so from the fast sections they're just downhill rather than flat/long/fast.
Well that was interesting. Thought after reading this "ok, let's go from 205psi to 220psi"
Stuck shock pump on, I had 150 in it. Last time I put pressure in I must have released some when disconnecting shock pump. So I guess that explains a bit ! We'll see how it feels next time out now lol.
Stuck shock pump on, I had 150 in it
I wouldnt assume you let some air out last time you filled it. You may have set it correctly, but the shock may be leaking air either statically (ie leaking even when its not in use), or only when cycled.
Firstly make sure the shock is cycled past the balancing port so the air is equal in the positive and negative sides before you take off the pump.
Unless the valve or pump seal is knackered then the pump shouldn't release air from the shock on disconnection, any air coming out should only be what is in the hose. It should release the valve before it disconnects. You will get some pressure drop on connection as the hose has to be pressurised. You can test this by connecting, pumping to pressure and disconnecting at different speeds and it should always loose the same amount.
If you have shock Wiz then you should also see the pressure only drops on connection of the pump.
It is more likely the shock is leaking during use so needs an air service (change the air seals). Or if there is any play in the linkage the rocker can twist the shock putting side load in it.
If you are really unlucky there are some monarchs that are just more susceptible to leaking in the G160 because any twisting through the rocker is transmitted in to the shock.
Make sure that your bearings are all good and the front shock mount actually lines up with the brackets by taking the bolt out and lowering the shock out of the bracket. It should go back up without having to push it to one side.
I wouldnt assume you let some air out last time you filled it. You may have set it correctly, but the shock may be leaking air either statically (ie leaking even when its not in use), or only when cycled
Aye, not impossible of course, we'll see in coming weeks
Thanks K. I'll have a check.
Firstly make sure the shock is cycled past the balancing port so the air is equal in the positive and negative sides before you take off the pump
You'll have to translate that bit please
I think from my side it’s been a game changer, but that’s because 90% of my rides at the moment are more tech than they once would have been. The only XC/local ride i’ve done in the last 3-4 months was down the canal from Bath to Newbury, which i did on the 29er HT. The rest have been tech riding instead.
There’s also the fact that currently, XC speed isn’t of importance to me at all. Strava is being used to log miles but that’s about it. The speed/race side of things isn’t playing a factor at all as i’m riding with the 11 year old, so from the fast sections they’re just downhill rather than flat/long/fast.
Are you based in Bath then?
With mine I think I just felt like a change, plus always felt I was a bit stretched on my previous frame. Will be interesting to see how it is on Strava on times - at Cwmcarn I got pb’s on the new bike in fairly ropey conditions. Uphill and on some pedally sections. It was too windy on a few of the downhill bits to get any speed up - it was crazy. Can’t wait for the summer and hopefully some dry dusty conditions!
All frame bearings checked recently and all good. Including shock out and checked etc.
No, we got the train to Bath from Didcot and cycled home
You’ll have to translate that bit please
Inside the shock there are positive and negative air chambers, th negative chamber is filled with air from the positive chamber, there is a small hole known as a transfer port that let's air flow from one chamber to the other, but the transfer port is only open at a certain position in the shocks travel, usually just after the sag point. If you just pump the shock up without equalising the air in the positive and negative chambers, the first time you use the shock the Chambers will equalise reducing the pressure in the positive chamber.
Good practice is to cycle the shock slowly a number of times whilst you are putting air in, say at every 50 psi increment. This will equalise the pos and neg Chambers.
Thank you for excellent information.
I guess the best plan is to fit the Shockwiz and I can monitor it before and after each ride
So Shockwiz is on.
At 190psi I'm at 40% sag when I sit on it in a standard position.
220psi I'm at 30% sag.
So I've left it currently at 220.
I just bought a new Shock Pump too which has some fangled pressurisation system to equalise the pressure so there's no loss when connecting/disconnecting.
I also spent all morning debating whether to get a new shock, be that coil or air. According to TFTuned, coil is exceptionally tight fitting and not advised.
If you're blowing through the travel on an air shock you def don't want a coil on there.
If I were you I'd understand what the problem is first before you try and solve it.
If I were you I’d understand what the problem is first before you try and solve it.
Trying to mate yes. I'm off to the woods later with my lad with Shockwiz on there.
It could be now that i know i have 200+ in there the problem has gone away... but won't know till later.
It very much sounds like you need more pressure and/or tokens. If it’s a case of being ok ish but then blowing through the final bit (and there is a regressive leverage curve) I’d fill it with tokens and keep the same pressure as my next step and see what that does.
With 220 psi and playing on arguably slightly smaller jumps i was getting to here
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49614251216_993019570a_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49614251216_993019570a_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2iAf1mq ]2020-03-03_04-18-07[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
So i dropped it to 200
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49613729793_5df59de29e_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49613729793_5df59de29e_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2iAckmn ]2020-03-03_04-17-58[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Checked with Shockwiz, addmitedly not much data but says this
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49613728538_912e5daaee_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49613728538_912e5daaee_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2iAcjYJ ]2020-03-03_04-17-32[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
this is current sag.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49614511047_bf58558600_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49614511047_bf58558600_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2iAgkAg ]2020-03-03_04-19-31[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
I'll keep an eye on it but i'm hoping it was just a minor loss of air last time i connected and removed the shock pump
I'd have less sag, try 25% and see what happens
I’d have less sag, try 25% and see what happens
Will wait and see after the jump/skills area in a week's time how it is, but yes I think another 10-12psi out may work.
Is that sag with 200psi? If so I’d go back higher until I got to a max of 30% sag I think. Then ride it for a few rides and see how that goes with some bigger hits. I’d you’ve still got a chunk of unused travel then tube by removing a token / band at a time.
When all the air is out does the shock go all the way to the end of the visible stanchion? Some shocks do whilst others don’t.
On the damping side I’m less sure of what to do. My shock only has rebound and then pedal or full open. I’ve got 2 forks with lsc adjust and both are full open! Need to hire a shock whiz at some point to see if it’ll give me an improvement on suspension or not.
Ok.
Yes it gets full travel when empty
Pic is with 200psi at 33% sag roughly.
Steve - I’m with Joe - maybe just run a little less sag and put a few rides in and see how it goes - I think you may be in danger of overthinking it!
I'm deffo not overthinking it now as i'm £300-400 better off than i almost was 🙂 But i'll still give it thought over the coming days and weeks as we see how it peforms, but i'm thinking a lot lot less now i know it was just a minor mistake rathr than a catastrophic failure 🙂
👍 It’s a good idea to slow your rebound down anyway if you’re having a jump session - otherwise we’ll see you on fails and bails! 😀
Partly due to boredom and partly due to why not, i'm debating throwing a new shock in to give it a whirl and see.
Recommendations wanted from you fellas who know more than me.
Happy to buy used and don't want to spend more than £300.
I worry when i look at some of the shocks as they have the external componentry which makes me think if i fit them it will mean i can't get a bottle in the cage, even though it's side mount.
As a rule of thumb when upgrading shocks I tend to go with whatever the top end model is specced with. So I'd go for an RC3
Recommendations wanted from you fellas who know more than me
Fox float x2 if it will fit. Super tunable so can be made to work well with almost any kind of leverage curve.
OK, will get an RC3 🙂
Fox float x2 if it will fit. Super tunable so can be made to work well with almost any kind of leverage curve.
Can't find any within budget, only one at £420 in right size.
Fox DPX2 felt like it made a massive difference on mine, sat up much better in the travel generally and didn't blow through the travel so easily on hits.
MMMm they're pretty too.
Few DPX2 on sale at the moment (lot cheaper on Wiggle than CRC) but otuside budget.
J-Tech had CCDB inline coil and air both on sale, for £250-300
Bought it.
Going to need to file the linkage to make that Fox fit. Not a big job but no way around it.
There are various ways to move the bottle cage down a bit. Best one I’ve seen was an extra cage mount hole drilled further down the tube
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49730241576_fb18ebbd53_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49730241576_fb18ebbd53_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2iLuufd ]p5pb18326947[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49730562862_52f3e61b8b_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49730562862_52f3e61b8b_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2iLw8KC ]p5pb18326948[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49729697453_5cb086735f_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49729697453_5cb086735f_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2iLrGuM ]p5pb18326950[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49730562832_26c11ce07c_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49730562832_26c11ce07c_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2iLw8K7 ]p5pb18326951[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Going to need to file the linkage to make that Fox fit. Not a big job but no way around it.
eh ?
Go on ?
They didn't mention anything about filing mountings when they fitted mine at BPW after I blew up the OE Monarch, my DPX2 wasn't that exact model though.
I'll try to remember to check the box which is still in my garage with the old Monarch sat in, unfortunately I can't check the bike as some ****er/s nicked it
I'm a little troubled by that i must admit 😀
Not the actual 'doing' of it, i'm ok with the technical aspect... but not sure i want to be hacking up an expensive item lol.