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I won’t judge you if you don’t fancy fitting it yourself!
That said if you can change frame bearings etc like you do already then an airshaft change wouldn’t be difficult for you. Sram have full step by step service guides on their website with pictures and specifications.
The only specific tool you really need are circlip pliers. Yari has a 24mm socket on the air side in my experience of having them - although later ones may have switched to a cassette tool (my pike and Lyrik ultimates have this latter option). Bottom bolts are 5mm Allen key.
haha the real question is, what tyres! I seem to remember that track is alot harder when it's wet! how is the weather looking?
Weather looking dry and hot for the rest of week, no forecast of rain.
29er rubber i'm very very limited on. I was running 2 x DHRs both in Maxx Terra, but recently swapped to an Assegai front also in Maxx Terra.. So that's what i'll be running this weekend. It felt excellent in the woods last night that's for sure.
The only specific tool you really need are circlip pliers. Yari has a 24mm socket on the air side in my experience of having them – although later ones may have switched to a cassette tool (my pike and Lyrik ultimates have this latter option). Bottom bolts are 5mm Allen key.
I have a 24mm socket (although not a thin wall type if that's needed) and Circlip pliers.. But i guess i'm slightly worried about messing it up and then finding out on Sat afternoon in practice that i've ballsed it and can't use it lol. If i get Rotec to do it, then i know it's right.
(Or i simply leave until after the weekend anyway)
good choice on the tyres. yes let the professionals do it if your first time and before a race, again, one less thing to think about
Tyres you’ve got will be fine on there - it was running really grippy on Sunday just gone. This Friday is forecast hot and sunny - although a small chance of rain Saturday afternoon which could spice things up. Even if it goes get smattering what you’ve got will still be the best option I reckon - a hint of rain might dampen the dust down nicely.
On the messing up the fork perhaps best not to try it for the first time before this weekend - although (famous last words) there isn’t much to go wrong.....
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52146573004_ba95252d8c_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52146573004_ba95252d8c_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ns1PoU ]2022-06-14_05-18-28[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Went out this morning testing the Specialized Status on the 'Enduro Line' at Slanting Hill. Was quite interesting as it has plenty of plusses and a few minuses compared to the Trek.
First off is the suspension, both ends actually feel better and more plush than the Trek, which is slightly weird because both are running Fox 36s and 29er front ends... Even with the arugably worse tyres fitted on the Status of the Butchers, it still felt good. The rear though feels superb on the Status, really nice. The Fox DPX2 i've always liked on bikes and it just soaks things up superbly. I don't mind the suspension on the Trek, but it's not as plush that's for sure. I may work a little on the front end, but not sure i can do that much on the rear.
Handling wise the Trek wins in parts but loses in parts, none are a shock. The Status seems to turn quicker, well it would with the 27.5 rear and shorter chainstays along with the front end of the Status feeling a bit 'wandery' on anything other than downs. However, all i'm racing on at the weekend is the downs. lol.
The other minor downside to the Status is the levers, they're integrated so i can't move them further out, the result is that they touch my hands when i'm gripping the bars and i'm conscious of them being too close to my hands, they have 2 positions and i moved them to the outside one a few months ago, but still too close.
Sadly due to Strava not letting me create a segement for the Enduro line as apparently it's 'too short' i can't really get any 'live' and accurate data on timing. I was thinking about getting my lad to stand at the bottom and time me, but he's poorly at the moment so can't. However, i can't see my actual finishing position changing on either bike in the race lol. So i'm not sure any of it matters.
enjoyed the testing though and happy to once again do both sets of dad-gaps 🙂
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52146997667_dca619e658_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52146997667_dca619e658_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ns3ZCF ]2022-06-15_08-29-40[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
That's slightly interesting...
Status rider rear sag
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52147032892_fa04c62873_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52147032892_fa04c62873_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ns4b71 ]2022-06-15_08-52-45[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Trek rider rear sag.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52148051111_8390d7765e_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52148051111_8390d7765e_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ns9oMv ]2022-06-15_08-52-39[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Now weirdly the Trek had 200psi in it and seems to use 92% roughly when riding hard.
The Status has 225psi in it and seemed to use about 85% of max travel.
I guess that's the difference between a DPX2 shock and the Fox performance float evol. I'd consider swapping the Trek shock but it's some weird bottom end mount with the 'Reactive' and Thru Shaft version which i don't think uses the same eyelets, even under the mounting kit.
Now weirdly the Trek had 200psi in it and seems to use 92% roughly when riding hard.
The Status has 225psi in it and seemed to use about 85% of max travel.
I guess that’s the difference between a DPX2 shock and the Fox performance float evo
Suspension performance depends on more than just the type/make/model of shock fitted, the leverage curve of the linkage plays a massive part in how the rear suspension feels. if the leverage curve is progressive then it means the force required to compress the shock a given amount increases as the bike moves through its travel.
Also the size of the air chamber in the shock determines how easy it is to bottom out the shock regardless of the air pressure used, its why some shocks have the option of fitting air volume reducers to give more ramp up at the end of the shock stroke..
I would guess that the status has a more progressive leverage curve than the trek. if you want to make the trek bottom out less, it might be worth seeing if you can add some volume spacers to the treks shock.
Indeed mate yeah... it's something i've been considering. At the end of the day, the Trek is awesome for 99% of things i can do.... it can arguably do the other 1% along with 50% more... .but of course i'm the limiting factor. It would be nice to be able to get it a bit more plush though, but it'll still only be 130mm of travel compared to the 160mm on the status.
At the end of the day i don't expect to be racing again anytime soon, but of course i will be at places that require a bit of bouncy.
The Trek feels more 'neutral' i guess to ride compared to the slightly 'out there' front end of the Status...
But i could honestly ride either on a regular basis.
Well that's interesting... Apparently you can't get spacers to fit the Reactive Thru-shaft shocks.
is thats why its for sale.....?
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3361444/
what have you got your eye on next?
is thats why its for sale…..?
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3361444/
what have you got your eye on next?
It's not exactly for sale, it was more out there in a potential swap scenario, the pricing i've put it up for i wouldn't realistically expect to see, so was more hypothetically up for swap.
I currently have an offer of a swap for this.
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3360828/
But don't know how much he'd want his way yet...
I guess i'm kinda thinking that now the enduro side of things has gone a bit pear-shaped, then a bit more bounce. However since i posted that i've now ordered the 150mm air-shaft for the Trek which is currently at my LBS being installed as we speak... So i really need to make my mind up here 😀
He wants £500 to jump to the Megatower. It's an interesting thought... but... Mmmmm
Isn’t your Trek a better spec than that mega tower? Also probably newer / seen less use etc. Both have nice expensive carbon frames. Mega tower is meant to be a little bit plough I think - but if that’s what you’re after it’s a really capable bike.
3 months ago:
After sitting, thinking, listening, reading advice on here and deciding, i thought “well, the stuff i’m riding, i can/should be fine on something less massive than the big blue bouncy G170.
Now you want to swap to a megatower?
Also odd that he wants to swap to your Trek when he states:
JUST A DO IT ALL RIG ONLY MARKS ON BARS FROM STRAPS FEW ON BRAKES COMES WITH DOCUMENTS MIGHT TAKE A TRADE ON OTHER BIKES IF TAKES MY FANCY IE EBIKE , ENDURO , DOWNHILL 29ER PREFERRED
I take his advert being all in capitals as a bit of a warning sign the seller might be a total berk. Also that he’ll swap for almost anything is a bit odd.
Don't we all do the "maybe i should...." then 3 months later "maybe i ought to....."
Maybe it's just me.... At the time of swapping to the Trek, it seemed the right plan and in many ways it still does... but i do wonder if for some stuff i need some more bouncey...
But maybe the 150mm will give that tiny bit more anyway.
I'm not sure adding 10mm travel to the fork will revolutionise it
I love a shorter travel bike, and I love tweeking them.
Not saying I'm right, just that I have one possible solution.
I think I'm similar to you in riding for fun primarily, occasional race not taken seriously. No massive jumps or drops.
I've currently got a fairly low sag percentage, no volume spacers in the fork, coil (therefore linear) at the rear.
Rode Swinley last night following hardtain on the weekend, pumping through the rollery bermy bits, felt like rolling on a cloud.
25% sag means I've got 75% left to play with, and I'll regularly use nearly all of it.
Others stuff a load of tokens/bands into a long travel 170 bike, run it at 30% sag, and never use the end of the travel because its so progressive. Check the maths, and we have pretty similar travel used.
Of course they have a bit more negative travel for some ground hugging traction, and a safety net for when they finally build up to hitting that drop and cock it up. But day to day riding...
Different geo, thats a whole new kettle of fish though.
I’m not sure adding 10mm travel to the fork will revolutionise it
I absolutely agree... but then again, it's not £500... it's £75 all in and i can live with that for a potential small gain.
TBH i'd happily throw a coil in this, but i've got some weird funky setup on the bottom of the shock with a weird mounting.
[img] 
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So i don't know what or how would actually fit it... There's nothing i've found online about replacing it.
Weirdly TFTuned told me the spacers can't be used like in a normal shock because of the ThruShaft, but then a google search implies it can....
Shocks though i do like 'squidgy'.... more so than most, 40% i'm happy with that on a DPX2 for example and they do run quite soft at the early part of the stroke.
That’s a weird ass shock lower mounting
So i don’t know what or how would actually fit it… There’s nothing i’ve found online about replacing it.
Looks like there's plenty of space around that lower mount though? And google suggests it's a standard-ish shock size (210x52.5). I'd be surprised if a coil shock wouldn't physically fit even if it needs TF to make you a really long spacer kit.
Weirdly TFTuned told me the spacers can’t be used like in a normal shock because of the ThruShaft, but then a google search implies it can….
Is it just the photo or does that look like a really small air can for a 210mm shock? Have they done something clever and taken length from the air can and added it to that wierd lower mount which is why it cant be reduced further?
That’s a weird ass shock lower mounting
It’s only because Trek use their proprietary thru-shaft design.
The Fuel EX uses a stock 210 i2i size shock (52.5mm stroke from memory of my old one). You can actually fit a 55mm stroke shock on it, which will give you ~137mm travel.
You just need a mount kit to make it work.
I guess the issue would be to get the threaded mounts at the bottom end. Top end liiks standard trunnion.
I'll email TFT again about the volume spacers and link them the article.
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/volume-spacers-for-2020-fuel-ex-rear-shock.1129721/
https://m.pinkbike.com/news/trek-fox-thru-shaft-shock-review.html
But that one is a bit different to mine
So i didn't go with the Megatower, despite the fact that in the 5% of situations it'll probably be better than the Trek, in the 95% the Trek will blow it out of the water..
So i'm just waiting for the LBS to shout me and will collect my forks.
Sadly, it seems we're unlikely to be racing this weekend due to an A&E visit for the lad all night, it's ended up being nothing serious but he's barely eaten for 3 days and can't even get out of bed. So the odds of him making it to FoD on Sat/Sun are pretty damn low. I could of course go race on my own, but the reality is, i was only racing for the laughs and banter with my lad rather than for a result in the race.
@hobnob it seems you're very much correct mate. Thanks for the pointers
Chatted with TFTuned who tell me you can fit a standard eyelet shock.
https://www.tftuned.com/tf-tuned-mount-kit-127mm-trek-bikes/p3791
you need some of these.
https://www.tftuned.com/trek-rear-shock-pin-to-trunnion-hardware/p3518
some of those..
and of course a shock... it then runs a standard type shock 210*52.5. Hmmm interesting..
Sounds good if you can stick a normal shock in there.
If going air I’d be inclined to look at a Cane Creek Kitsuma Air probably
If coil then there are loads of good options - I like my CC Kitsuma coil (I’m still working on the settings / coil weight side of things) - it seems to pedal well and on road / fireroads the lockout lever is actually insanely locked out vs other shocks I’ve had. Fully locked it feels like a hardtail.
On roots and stuff it’s so plush - down corkscrew / ski run / sheepskull I’ve never ridden it so fast and so much in control as I did on Sunday. My bike has 150mm of rear travel though.
air/coil/external res or not... all decisions i need to consider.
I need to borrow an external type to make sure it'll give clearance for water... i'm pretty hopeful looking as the frame, but i'd need to be 100%.
I absolutely loved the feel of the Bomber CR on the G170, but obviously at 850gr it's a bit weighty... but the Trek is light anyway so may not be a major issue.
After chatting with TFT it's possible a couple of volume spacers may work too.
But in honesty i'm a little scared to do it... I think doing volume spacers previously i've actually caused more issues than i've resolved, although i still can't understand how or why.
I did the bands on my RS Monarch RC3+ and that broke soon after, i did another Fox which then failed and then another Fox which then failed soon after... But i can't see how or why me fitting spacers would do that. One of them was working perfectly until i did it, i don't think i even swapped any on that, i just released the air, checked and then re-inflated, with incremental compressions to cycle it etc. Once inflated it then wouldn't hold air and squatted.
I know that's all a little irrational, but hey that's where my head is sometimes.
It cant be that long till your Alps trip. have you decided which bike you will be riding
If it was me I would run what I have, until after then. At least you know what you have and any limitations. I think the extra travel in the fork you are doing should be a good move for the type of riding involved.
I've seen too many peoples holidays spoiled as they have done changes too near or for the trips and found out too late that its made the bike worse.
Just finished the final fettle for ours next week. New tyres on one as they should have been swapped 12 months ago and have very little tread left. New saddle on the Enduro curtesy of the classifieds and a front brake blead on the Stumpy, again should have been done last year.
For us holidays should be as little fettling as possible and repairs if necessary
Excellent point. I'll be on the Trek in the Alps as I'll leave the Status set up for the lad and over the majority of my trails the Trek will suit me best anyway.
Re any shock upgrade have you actually considered how it would suit the suspension kinematics? If the frame is specifically designed for air shocks you could find a coil too linear and blowing through travel, a progressive spring etc may help but your starting to blow a lot of cash chasing something you may not get (which has happened before).
Outside of my knowledge levels on how to even begin with that mate.
I did consider a dpx2 on PB at £275 which if it doesn't work I could sell on again so I'm then only out of pocket the price of fitting kits
You've been deliberating about the travel of the Trek from pretty much the first ride, despite telling us how happy you are with it. I think in your own mind, you will never really be happy with it.
Just sell it and buy another Status 😉
Worth factoring in another £150 for a custome tune. Always worth factoring in the cost of a service on a second hand shock anyway, so a little extra to get it setup nicely for you and the bike just makes sense. I got the DPX2 I bought of you tuned after a while and it made quite a difference (admittedly the suspension on the G160 is an oddball, but still . . . )
STR, apart from the swap, no one showed any interest, plus, I have status.
Or look for a shock that you can tune to suit, eg DVO Topaz. You have positive air chamber volume adjust, negative air chamber volume adjust and an air bladder instead of an IFP in the piggyback to shift the spring curve up or down. Then you can get into the shim stack if you want, but the first 3 tuning variables are very easy to adjust.
I did consider a dpx2 on PB at £275 which if it doesn’t work I could sell on again so I’m then only out of pocket the price of fitting kits
I'd err on the side of getting something new* and custom tuned even if it doesn't have the resale value. IME getting my very basic Fox RP2 on my Pitch custom tuned turned it from a horrible bike to faultless (apart from I then apparently blew it up twice, but the tune was fine). Getting another shock with the same factory tune won't make a difference unless you've found a fundamental fault with the current one, like you do need adjustable air volume, or it spikes, or you want adjustable LSC, or you find you need H + L rebound dampers (even if ones internally set).
*or 2nd hand, and get it serviced and tuned if it's a bargain.
the other option is £500 and get the Megatower lol
I don’t think I’d be doing that on the mega tower - hasn’t your top fuel got better specced forks / groupset etc already and had a much shorter life in terms of riding so far?
You could just stick the Top Fuel on eBay with a buy it now / best offer next time they have a discounted selling fee offer on. Probably the best way of getting good money for it.
LOL i was mostly kidding with that matey 🙂
Forks are the same, but the wheels on mine are carbon. However they're not crazy light carbon according to reviews, more carbon in name than anything.
On the shock side of things i'll likely just wait a little while and try the 150 forks first, get used to them and then see.
I’d be curious to have a little go on your Fuel Ex to see what it’s like - especially back to back with my Sentinel. I did wonder about a Fuel Ex when I was looking but couldn’t find a frame only in alloy - the carbon was too expensive frame only.
I didn’t think your G170 was that plush suspension wise - but then that’s probably due to being setup for you not me. I’d imagine you’d find the sentinel suspension too soft now with the 450lb coil on it. I’m still debating going up to 500lb but going to have a session playing with hsc first to see if I can work out if it’s bottoming out on drops or hitting a harsh spike of too much hsc dialled on.
Of course. Sadly this weekend is now off. The boy still hasn't gotten out of bed since Monday afternoon apart from going to hospital last night. So even if he's ready mentally, I ain't letting him race at the weekend.
Which in truth means I'm not racing either, I'm not going to drive to FoD in the rain to race a course and come last on my own lol. It's father's Day too, which meant me and him we're out together, so I won't be leaving him at home and going playing.
Weekend after though if you're still doing Staunton/wherever has potential. I may be in Peaks on the Sat on wife's ebike, but Sunday that weekend I'm still free.
Well it's unlikely anyone could tell but the 150 shaft is in there
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151198753_005af62bc7_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52151198753_005af62bc7_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2nsqwtc ]2022-06-16_05-21-45[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Out for an early one to 'beat the heat'.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52152700639_8183c61cb0_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52152700639_8183c61cb0_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2nsydVM ]2022-06-17_06-49-43[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Out for an early one to 'beat the heat'. Forks work really well, but in honesty i'm not convinced someone of my level can tell the difference between 140-150mm. Either way, i had an excellent little test.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52152457501_12de2a152a_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52152457501_12de2a152a_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2nswYDK ]2022-06-17_06-49-31[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Should be able to soften them a bit more, so just whipped 10psi out, see how that feels next. I do like my forks softer than most would
Only disappointment was with Strava.. not because i care about where i am in the world, but i did want to compare my own ride against my own ride. But sadly it doesn't think i rode the same segment on ANY of the 3 runs, despite the fact it's a single trail that you really can't do any other way.
"Why it Did Not Match
Your Activity seems to have deviated from the Segment at 41%. We could not complete the match."
Ummmm if it had, i'd be lying in a tree by now
What device are you using to record your activity? You need a dedicated device that records data points per second.
Yeah my Garmin 520 broke not long ago, smashed the screen to bits and then it completely died, so i'm just using the phone.
At the end of the day i only Strava about 10% of my rides, and these were specifically for testing the difference between the Trek and the Status, so i'm not too worried about replacing the Garmin in honesty. Overall, i guess the results don't matter and they both really are pretty unexpected, the Status feels more plush than the Trek and the Trek in many ways feels faster.
I do really like both bikes, but overall i like the Trek more, it's possibly not quite as good in the tough stuff, but every other aspect of riding, it's better. It's also a chunk lighter, which at my weight, adding a bit more mass to the bike on hills really does have an effect, so i'd like to keep away from that 🙂
Interestingly this morning i also noticed i prefer lower pressures than i thought. I've been running 25-27psi in my tyres for a while now since reading how many pros in Enduro don't run 20ish... but today i dropped it after the first run to 'something' which after checking was 18.9 and i much preferred the lower pressure.
Sadly, the weather isn't going to play ball any more this weekend and with the lad being out of action, i don't think i'll be riding much for a few days.
I’d not be using Strava for any sort of accurate measuring. I’ve tested different devices on the same ride with often large variances. I’ve also done plenty of road rides with mates (so riding together), again with time variances. At best it’s a guide, but it’s not good for accurate performance data over a 30s - 1min DH run.
yeah absolutely, i was going to use my lad and our phones and shout GO at the top and get him to time me... but it was 5.30am and he wasn't even remotely going to get out of bed at 5.30am 😀
I've started behind a mate on a long DH section, overtaken him and finished a good bit ahead - Strava had him beat me
I’ve started behind a mate on a long DH section, overtaken him and finished a good bit ahead – Strava had him beat me
Yeah i think we've all had that previously with Strava.... i didn't think it was going to be fully scientific 🙂
Anyway, the Trek is getting a decent jaunt tomorrow now as i've just entered the uptonogood ride, 35 miles... mostly trails i ride fairly regularly off the Ridgeway, round Ilsleys, Harwell, etc etc... Will give it and me a decent workout.
Have you got any sort of go pro/action camera?
watch the footage back and look at the time stamps passing a consistent start and stop point to get a fairly accurate time.
Decent idea mate yeah, but essentially this was only to decide which bike to race Sunday on. As the race is now off theres little point worrying.
As a side note and bike to bike discussions, I have an option on this at £180
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165530606088?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Da0fddbdf4f094640a13f62b273c835a3%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D165530606088%26itm%3D165530606088%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DMarzocchi&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A547fc67a-ee35-11ec-8721-d267c9468cc9%7Cparentrq%3A718ae0f91810a0f2c7fa1ba0fffede36%7Ciid%3A1
The fitting kits top and bottom end are £96. I technically need 4 kits, 2 sets of spacers and top and bottom bolts.
That still only take the price to £280 which isn't bad in all fairness.
It's certainly a consideration but looking at pics here it's a very very close fit!
https://www.vitalmtb.com/community/coregrind,26162/setup,42792
Add to that there's discussion on whether the progression curve suits a coil. So I'm currently a maybe.
But it's Friday afternoon which means it must be beer o'clock, which may be good or bad.
I had a Google and couldn’t decide if the fuel Ex was coil compatible or not. That Cane Creek shock in the link has a progressive coil spring on it by the looks of it. Cane creek are 36mm diameter coils so smaller than the likes of Rockshox - although Fox are usually 35mm so assuming marz are the same it should be ok.
The only other thing is will the bomber piggyback clear the downtube? The bomber cr has pretty much the longest piggyback going and on my Sentinel it wouldn’t have cleared the downtube at full compression.
The Dvo Jade X has pretty much the shortest piggyback when I was looking. The CC Kitsuma has big blocky dials but the piggyback doesn’t extend down much so that fits pretty easily for me. DHX2 Fox also ok.
It's questions i don't know the answer to yet. My boss who bought my G170 still has the bomber, so even though it's a longer shock i can use it for some testing, but hes' away this weekend.
Surely 'd just run the piggyback at the top ?
It's very much a first world problem this one and i'm not actually giving it that much thought but it's just a Mmmmm maybe it'll work and be lovely.
Marz do indeed run Fox springs.
Surely ‘d just run the piggyback at the top ?
Still a problem on my sentinel despite a kink in the downtube too. The standard piggyback float x (running with piggy at the top) had about 5mm clearance at best when at full compression. Tighter than I expected!
good info/thinking.... Thanks 🙂
It might not be an issue on yours but it’s got a similar vertical shock / top rocker. Sentinel medium and small frames have this clearance issue - large and above have a bit more room apparently. Guessing your Trek is a large as you’re a bit taller than me.
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Ah right, mine mounts way higher and more vertical I'd say
Maybe mine is a bit less vertical / has a bit less clearance to the downtube. This is uncompressed
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It's an interesting one for sure matey.
Don't know.
But it's beer time now anyway.
I’m feeling I’m done with work for the week but just finishing something off. Damaged something in my back on Sunday : Monday and back spasms causing me some pain from time to time so thinking it’s time for a nice cocktail of ibuprofen / co codamol / spiced rum and Coke and a soak in the hot tub in the sun 😝
Hot tub, damn. Need one here.
What are you actually hoping to achieve with all the constant chopping and changing bikes/components? Not having a dig, just genuinely curious as these are all pretty capable bikes in stock trim, capable of things way beyond what most of us can ever hope to achieve!
Or do you just like to tinker?
I just ride my bikes as they come, get the sag somewhere near, normally add a couple of tokens as I like my suspension firm (ex motocross background) and just ride.
Modern bikes are so capable these days, I have a fox 36 performance elite and fox dpx2 on one of my bikes and when I ride other bikes with lower spec components I'm just as fast. Which all comes down to commitment
The rider is the main limiting factor, I consider myself pretty quick, used to race downhill and motocross, will hit most stuff blind, which doesn't always pay off!
As said above its all about commitment, the equipment is secondary to that.
There is no perfect suspension setup, its always a bit of a compromise.
This post could save you money and time 😀
I guess the simple answer is, I enjoy both the riding and the fiddling.
With the MTB I like my bikes to feel soft, compliant, squidgy. It's not about speed, it's about pleasure I guess.
I don't have too much money, but I have plenty of time compared to most, so I like to play. Sometimes that's outside, sometimes it's with spanners.
Some may say "why don't you ride instead", well I rode at 5.30am. I'm riding tomorrow. I just enjoy playing
It may transpire that things I do don't help, or make things worse, or costs me money, but that's ok, my choice my mistakes. I'll live with it.
I won't win races, I won't do 30' gaps, but I'll enjoy it.
Same, enjoy the arsing about, upgrading and plotting what to do with the spare bits in the shed, buying, selling, justifying upgrades.. keeps me busy and away from all the far worse stuff I'd be up to otherwise
Did a 50km jaunt around Berks on Sat, bit on the hilly side which really showed up my fitness, or lack of it. Well, more my overweight aspect rather than fitness.
Anyway, I bought the Bomber CR. Along with the pretty expensive mounting kits from tftuned. The shock is 210*52.5 so will keep the same geometry etc. It's got a 700 spring which according to Marz website is correct for me.
Should have it fitted by weds assuming it all arrives and ready for testing later in the week. Then maybe a decent test Sat and Surrey hills on Sunday.
Shock is about 450gr heavier than standard, but recent rides have shown it's me who needs work on weight rather than the very light Trek lol
Hopes are that it'll feel a bit more plush for tricky stuff and Morzine
Out today and playing in the woods... it's a bit of a schelp over, but i didn't go nuts and it was quite nice.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52162909563_dae1ea32d3_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52162909563_dae1ea32d3_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ntsxFH ]2022-06-21_03-38-17[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
One thing the ride did show me is that on Saturday i probably went in too deep. It wasn't flat chat, but it was pretty hard intensity for a decent chunk of the ride, as i didn't stop at the main feed station i think to an extent i had a small bonk, which affected me as much mentally as physically, but sort of just killed any fun. Today was about 75% of that effort and all round it just felt a lot lot... well, nicer.
I did notice 2 minor issues...
1. My saddle is shot... it's creaky and horrible... it's now off
2. My shock is a bit slurpy in the intial part of the travel.
Something i'm struggling with here in terms of knowledge.
So this is a standard Trek reactive/Thru-shaft shock in what's a 210*52.5
When you compare the mounting to a 'standard' shock, it's clearly quite different. Now i can get a mount kit from TFT which is an upper and lower spacer/shaft and a pair of mounting bolts etc. However, looking at the length/height of the lower shock mount on this, surely a standard 210*52.5 shock is going to sit a lot lower ? Even though the 210 is obviously eye-eye length, on the Trek that's extended by the mounting kit ? So it would sit lower ? Or am i missing something glaringly obvious ?
As long as you've measured the Trek shock and know the eye to eye and the stroke, you should just need to match it and it should work.
Perhaps the Trek shock has a shorter air can to allow the stanchion part to sit higher up due to the extended lower mounting point.
Given the mix of shock lengths/strokes, there must be room in a lot of them to be shorter than they actually are.
Perhaps the Trek shock has a shorter air can to allow the stanchion part to sit higher up due to the extended lower mounting point.
That's a very good point,.... never actually thought of that 😀
I've not actually taken it off yet as i'm still discussing plans and options in my head. But according to Treks blurb it's a 210*52.5 (although a 210*55 will fit and increases the travel a bit to 138mm on the back).
My current options are
1. Leave it for now and get serviced in winter at Sprung.
2. See if Trek will warranty it (not sure how likely that is)
3. Go Bomber CR coil in 210*52.5
4. Get a cheap RS Deluxe for £50 and the fitting kit from TFT (£96)
Even though the 210 is obviously eye-eye length, on the Trek that’s extended by the mounting kit ?
Or am i missing something glaringly obvious ?
The eye to eye length on the funky Trek shock is still the distance between the two eyelets.. which sit at the ends of both shocks regardless of the mounting gubbins. The 'normal' shock will just have a longer overall body / piston.
You're absolutely correct guys yes.
I measured it up and then made a spacer.
https://flic.kr/p/2ntCMYo
The standard shock is now on it's way to Silverfish/Fox who'll decide if it's warranty or not. I'll be happy if it is, but I'll understand if they say it needs a service and to bugger off.
As a backup plan I've ordered a 210*52.5 RS deluxe RT3 from Brink which is a take-off from new bike and fitting kit from TFT. Both due to arrive tomorrow so I'll still get out for weekend and play.
Well that was interesting.... I've been babysitting this
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52182389438_c1d8aacef1_5k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52182389438_c1d8aacef1_5k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2nvbonC ]2022-06-29_08-00-29[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Anyway.... I took it out to test it, needed to make sure everything works well etc... and it's absolutely ace..
I'd even argue potentially the ML suits me better than my L. It's a bit nicer in a jumping context too.
It's prompted me to move my saddle slightly forward along with rotating my bars back a little bit too, i think they were too far forward.
I'm off to Rogate on Sat morning with the small ones, so will be good to see how mine feels and if there's any change. But for sure it's interesting that the ML felt just a little more nimble etc.
Maybe you just like a shorter bike 🤷♂️
When we quickly swapped over g170/Sentinel at FOD they didn’t feel a hugely different length and your handlebars felt narrow - yet you’re taller than me
joebristol
Full MemberMaybe you just like a shorter bike 🤷♂️
This was agreed back in the G160 days iirc
Maybe you just like a shorter bike
I didn't think the Trek (EX9.8) was particularly long in honesty...
I'll be interested to see what turning the bars back a bit makes on it...I think they were a little forwards.
Bar width on both bikes is the same, as is bar-rise. Stem/Spacers are configured the same.
Measuring from back of seatpost-clamp to the center bolt of stem on both bikes, the Alu M/L is 22mm shorter than mine. You wouldn't think 22mm would feel much different would you... but arguably it does yes.
Don't get me wrong here... it's not like i don't really really like the 9.8, because i really do, i'm enjoying it lots and lots... but today was quite interesting.
Bar width on both bikes is the same, as is bar-rise. Stem/Spacers are configured the same.
remember that the size m/l almost certainly (i havent looked at geo tables for this specific bike, but pretty much each frame size from every manufacturer has a different length headtube) has a shorter headtube than your size L frame, so if you have the same amounnt of spacers under the bar on both bikes, then the handlebars on the m/l version will be lower.
You wouldn’t think 22mm would feel much different would you… but arguably it does yes.
Its funny with feel when some things are changed but not with others. The moment I sat on my new bike I could immediately feel the 2 degree steeper seat tube angle, but the 20mm reach increase and 1.5 degree slacker h/a didn’t really register.