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Bird Aether 9c size XL gloss black. Most parts moved over from my Cotic SolarisMax.
Gloss black finish is intriguing… you can see the patterns and swirls of the fibre beneath the gloss, but lots of different layers and pieces all catch the light a bit different, so it’s quite a random finish. The aesthetics for me are ok, but might be a bit head-doing for some. Matches nicely to the gloss black of the forks and brakes. The gloss Invisiframe kit is probably unnecessary as I think this finish will prove quite hardwearing, and should respond well to a polish once a year.
The build wasn’t all plain sailing:
The Chris King headset doesn’t fit so well, as the top cup is quite deeply cut in the frame. I needed to use some spacers from the toolbox.
The cable routing is within tubes glued inside the frame, with a Y to allow the rear brake to be fitted to the left or right side of the bars. Generally it’s pretty good, but the rear mech cable and rear brake cable go under the BB, where a fair bit of slack is required to loop around at suspension bottom out. The cables aren’t so snug in the tubes, so I have added a couple of cables ties to stop that excess being pulled up to the bars. The rear brake hose also needs some slack to allow for the chainstay and seatstay to open up through suspension compression. Here there is a small bolted clamp to keep the hose in place.
The front face of the ISCG mount is only just proud of the swingarm. I added a couple of washers to add a little clearance.
The 37mm seatclamp is not so common. I don’t like the bulky hope design, but found one from Nukeproof in the right colour.
If I decided to go 29er instead of 650b for my full suss this would be very high on the list - in this colour too. Looks great!
Currently on an Aether 7 so a similar aim to be a decent all rounder with relatively short chainstays to keep it playful.
How does it ride - and any idea what it weighs?
Those are build notes! You've made no reference to the first ride or how it behaves at all.
Nevertheless your build notes are useful, since I have one of these hanging in the garage being slowly built.
How tall are you if that's an XL?
Spent more time building it than riding it... I guess ride impressions to follow because all I know so far is saddle was a bit high, fork needed a token, and shock a little less rebound. It's my first full-sus in a while, so it will take some adjustment and time to get used to. It wasn't a huge difference from my Cotic. The shorter stays weren't immediately off-putting. The lower BB was noticable (especially when getting wet feet riding through puddles). I have the bars 20mm higher, and will experiment with that a bit.
Weight is 31lbs according to the bathroom scales.
Lovely. Are you selling the solaris max? Dibs!
Thats a good weight if accurate.
Mine is a ML and I think my build will come out heavier - I'm expecting 32-33lbs.
I was expecting these to generally be a bit lighter than my Aether 7.....which weighs 32lbs in its current build. That’s Lyriks / Code R’s / bashguide / XT 12 speed - although wearing carbon X1 GXP cranks / Hope hubs with XM481 rims / carbon handlebars / 180mm OneUp dropper. Size medium.
I think I’d read the C frame was 300g lighter than the A frame and mine has a reasonably heavy build. If I swapped to Pikes and lighter wheels I can easily dip below 31lbs. Just the like and a lighter front wheel (off my other bike) hit 31lbs pretty much bang on.
I’m tempted to get a Pike Ultimate and a set of light hubs and carbon rims when I have a bit of cash to spend to get close to 30lbs.
Spent more time building it than riding it
First ride looks a bit more comprehensive than a spin down the local singletrack... Nice!!
My Solaris was about 29lbs, but with lighter tyres, and all other parts were moved across, so 30-31lbs sounds about right for mine. I acknowledge that bathroom scales will not give a very accurate measurement. I didn't have any good scales for weighing the bare frame.
I'm 6'3" and have the saddle at 82-84cm from BB centre to top.
I was expecting these to generally be a bit lighter than my Aether 7
Its not an especially light carbon frame and its a 29er. (Nor is it especially heavy either). By the time you're wearing proper rubber it all mounts up. I reckon on adding 1.5 to 2lbs to a comparably specced 29er over 27.5.
If I swapped to Pikes and lighter wheels I can easily dip below 31lbs.
I'm sure, but I weight 92kg. My 36 is both stiffer and better performing than my old Pike, even though its roughly 200g heavier, its more appropriate to my mass and case-use. I've chased weight in the past and all it got me was expensive repair bills and frequent replacement parts.
My Solaris was about 29lbs
My Kingdom Ti vendetta is 32lbs😬
Fair - I’m 82kgs with aspirations to be a bit lighter than I am and furiously turbo training to try and help achieve that right now!
If the 9C frame is circa 300g lighter than A version then there’s 0.66 of a lb saving. That’s about the same as going Lyrik to Pike.
Guess it depends what tyres you’re running too - so far I’ve got away with exo casing Maxxis / equivalent in other tyre brands. DD casings quickly up the overall weight.
The 2.6 Mary on the front is snakeskin and has proven quite durable. On the rear I have a 2.5 DD DHF which I am trying without an insert. I am finding exo isn't strong enough, even with an insert, and Exo+ not noticeably better. I think I need to be more careful with making sure pressures are correct (high enough).
I completed mine yesterday, so here are a couple of pics.
Its an ML and I'm 182cm. I've deliberated chosen this instead of the L because amongst it's other duties it will spend a fair amount of time on tight natural singletrack. In contrast to the OPs weight, 'Scienceofficer's luggage scales of truth' put the weight of mine at 33.5lbs.
It looks like the seat tube angle is still a little on the slack side specifically on the XL size, I have an Aeris 145 and the sta is one of my only complaints.
It looks slacker on the XL doesn't it.
According to the tech docs the effective SA should be steeper than the ML. Actual SA is quite slack at 72 on the ML, and effective SA jumps forwards by 5 degrees. It felt 'about the same' as my hardtail , which has 76.5 actual.
Had a chance to test your 9c out yet? Any initial thoughts?
Also, anyone know why none of the mtb magazines/websites have reviewed this yet? Perhaps I missed them.
My circumstances are that I have 1 fox 36 to share between two bikes presently.
I took the Aether on a single 8.5km shakedown ride before I put the forks back on my hardtail until Easter. Because mud.
My very initial impressions are as follows.
It's stiffer than my V2 prime was. This contributes to it feeling lighter and easier to turn, even though its only a lb lighter. The Prime v2 has the same rear travel but a 150mm fork vs 140 on the Aether 9C. So there is some consideration for that.
One the flat, pedalling is no better than the Prime, but uphill, it has more pep and pedals better, yet maintains traction. Its feels more like a trail bike than an enduro crusher. Descending seemed fine. Possibly the frame rate is a slightly too progressive for my personal tastes, but I bought a float X2 to compensate for that If I need to, although I've not done anything more with the shock except set approximate sag and fox recommendations.
So, yeah, positive first impressions, mostly centred around personal preference stuff. I can tell you that my seat was too low, brake levers and dropper/shifter needed tweaking, as did saddle angle, plus my bars were a little off. Still work to do with the rear suspension though. The Fox recommendations felt too damped in both compression and rebound, and I need to take a spacer out of the air spring to reduce the overall progressivity.
At Easter I'll get the forks back on and run some further tweaks before commenting further.
@Scienceofficer : nice setup, like it a lot.
If you liked the build notes, you’ll love the de-bugging report!
I’ve done a few rides now, including chunky trails in Wales and Ticino. I’ve done just over a hundred miles in total, and 9,300m of descending, assisted by a couple uplifts.
https://imgur.com/oTnaflo
https://imgur.com/PDJdUsA
https://imgur.com/1dDqoev
https://imgur.com/V9YmddZ
https://imgur.com/1KXJvnV
Front tyre: 2.6 Magic Mary SS is now a couple of years old, and starting to show it’s age. It’s done sterling service and will be replaced with a 2.6 DHF Exo. I’m don’t have high hopes for this tyre… but it’s what I have so I shall use it.
Rear tyre: 2.5 DHF DD was killed in action. Running 25psi and no insert I still managed to snakebite the bead. I will not miss this tyre. I have fitted a 2.35 Hans Dampf SG which rolls faster, has better grip for climbing, and I haven’t noticed a rim strike yet at 25psi.
Forks: RS Pike Ultimate 150mm have been ace. I started with 80psi, same as I used with the forks on my hardtail (140mm Pike RCT3). I think with rear suspension I don’t ride the front as hard, so I have settled with 70psi and one token, and performance has been excellent. RS recommend 90psi for my weight.
CK Headset: No issues despite tricky install
Brakes: Formula Cura 4 have been good. Plenty of power, solid lever feels good. A completely different feel to my previous Sram brakes, and still learning the precision required to modulate them.
Gears: Chain started to skip in one gear, and shifting wasn’t very good. A new mech and cassette were on the cards. And then I smashed a jockey wheel, so it was a done deal. I now have a 52t cassette (!).
https://imgur.com/dSZAO8r
Rear shock: The Fox DPX2 needs 200psi for me to achieve 30% sag, which felt like quite a high pressure, although obviously a long way from maximum. With this setup the suspension is active yet progressive. I haven’t even been able to get in to the last 15% of travel. I have used the climb switch because it’s there, and it does change the feel of seated climbing.
For comparison I have also tried a RS Deluxe Select+, which needed 170psi for 26% sag. In open mode this setup felt more taught and responsive to power input then the Fox. It matches the bike nicely, climbing well and offering good control on the lumpy downhills too. I have also been able to get deeper in to the travel. I will refit the Fox and try more pressure/less sag to match this feel. I will open the shock just to check that there is no volume spacer in there.
I think the bike is designed to run more like 25% sag, so I should aim for that in the setup.
Frame: Frustrating rattle on chunky trails traced to internal cable routing tubes inside the frame. The tubes are glued in place inside the frame; the one for the dropper cable secured in the bottom of the downtube, but it then does a bend up in to the seat tube. For this portion it is unsecured. This length was rattling. With some fishing I was able to tie down the tube to the BB shell, which has helped a great deal.
https://imgur.com/uj025xE
https://imgur.com/7uAhl5D
Ride:
My Solaris is a great technical climber, the kind of bike that makes you try crazy steep technical stuff just to see if you can clean it. Now with a good rear tyre the Bird is showing itself to be even more capable. Some people might assume that it would be hampered by the short chainstays when it gets very steep, but this is just a non-issue. Although my feet are closer to the rear axle, my COG is further forward. And the low BB grants excellent stability.
Actually the low BB is the most noticeable aspect of this bike in comparison to my Solaris. I suffer pedal and crank strikes all over the shop and I will have to adjust my riding technique accordingly. The BB is a similar height to that of recent Specialized bikes, so nothing insane, but certainly on the lower side of the spectrum, and in sagged position a good 30mm or so lower than my hardtail. The Aether 9c is billed as an ultimate trail centre bike, and the chunky trails I have been riding are the polar opposite to groomed ribbons of singletrack. With level pedals this bike can blast through a rock garden with confidence… but it will take some practice in remembering the low BB when I need to pedal. The bike feels nicely balanced and I am enjoying getting to know the bike and getting up to speed with suspension. The low BB makes a positive impact on slow speed stability.
Head angle feels a touch steeper than my hardtail, despite what the numbers may say. There is less steering flop too.
Just popped open the DPX2 shock and found a huge blue volume spacer which will be adding considerably to the progressive feel. I will whip this out and start again on the set-up at 25% sag. All a good excuse for another ride soon.
This is all music to my ears since my 9c will see a darn sight more ungroomed chunder than trail centres.
Especially pleased to hear about your have-a-go-Henry remarks re: technical climbs, because I resemble that remark and adopt the same attitude on my hardtail.
Currently resisting the urge to steal my forks from the HT. Easter is only just around the corner now.
Whilst Ive been waiting, I did look in the X2' air spring and found 3 out of four spacers in there. Given the frame rate is progressive to 130% I've removed 2 and will report back after the next shakedown.
Interesting notes about the progressive rear end, I'm building up a 9a and have a cane creek double barrel air to pop on - think I will be taking out the volume spacer of I encounter any issues...
Its something I factored into shock choice. With an X2, DB air or similar, you have a wider range of air spring tuning than a little trail shock because they've got more volume, so if I don't like the progressivity, I can pull a bit of it out of the system with no ill effects.
In theory.
Proof of the pudding will be over Easter I guess!
DPX2 back in place without spacers and 235psi for 25% sag. Keen to try it now and see what difference it makes. I enjoyed the bottomless feel of the initial set up, but I'd like to use more of the travel.
I'm amazed at the difference in pressure required between the RS and the Fox.
You must be about the same weight as me for those pressures. I do recall Bird Cycles Ben saying the DPX was quite a high pressure shock on one of the other Bird threads. On shakedown I was about 200psi at 35% but the ramp up was stealing about 20% at the other end - that said, it wasn't a very big or gnarly shakedown so I was unlikely to go deep into the travel anyway.
I demoed the 9c and had a quiet a few peddle strikes. I've now bought a 9A but with the fork at 150 rather than 140. Don't seem to have many pedal strikes. Maybe it's because of the slightly raised BB or because I've got used to it, who knows probably a bit of both.
I went 150 fork on my Aether 7 and it feels really good. I don't think I'd want the BB any lower, my confidence on steeper lines and jumps and drops has gone up another notch.
Low BB is a consideration for sure. Sagged BB drop is 81mm - my HT is 60mm drop.
I run my fork at 140mm on the HT and was planning to switch it straight across, but if pedal strikes are a problem I have a 150mm airspring waiting in the wings.
My actual measured BB height, with 150mm fork, 2.6 front tyre, 2.35 rear; is 330mm static, and something like 300mm sagged.
The low BB height is a feature of the bike. It was one of the points of the geometry I was keen to experience. Because it is quite noticeably different from my previous bike it is something I have commented upon. Of course there are compromises with the design decision to have a low BB, but for now I am just becoming aware of how to adjust my riding a little. It's a feature that might be easier to manage with shorter cranks, or on smoother trails.
I've also been thinking about the air shock pressure. Of coarse a shock with a larger air volume will require a higher pressure to achieve the same sag, which must account for the difference between the two shocks I have tried. And the benefit of the larger air volume is greater ability to tune the spring rate.
My actual measured BB height, with 150mm fork, 2.6 front tyre, 2.35 rear; is 330mm static, and something like 300mm sagged.
Thats low, but its not really mega low. I'm sure it will be fine.
I have gone with a 140mm fork initially, but can alway adjust to 150mm (formula Selva R). Have some 170mm cranks, but being 6'4" don't think I would want to go shorter
Just have to wait for brakes and wheels to build it up!
When do you expect to complete it Sam?
Hopefully get a ride in May, really depends how long the hope e4's take to arrive!
Coming from my Banshee Spitfire to my new 9C I have noticed a few extra pedal strikes which isn't surprising. You soon get used to it and after a while its not even an issue. The bike is great and capable of just about any trail, I think the marketing about smashing trail centres is misleading and potentially damages the bikes image. 110 miles in and to me it seems like the perfect hard-hitting FS 29er trail bike, the limitations to its capabilities are with my abilities and gonad size.
However there's some significant creaking coming from somewhere around the pivot areas which I'm not happy about and haven't had time to try and diagnose yet. Think I'll contact Bird direct to see if they've got any ideas or heard of it elsewhere
Hmmm.
I've had the pivots apart before I built it to pack the bearings and understand how the fixings work. The collet recesses were bare, dry carbon. I'd look there first.
Those of you who aren't sure about the progression rate have you seen that bird sell an alternative linkage that modifies that.
Are you certain that applies to the new Aether 9?
There is a "triple R" linkage available for the Aether 7, which is also compatible with the Aeris AM9 & 120. On the Aether 7 it changes the progression from 35% to 30%, so a very slight change. The Aether 9 has, I think, 30% already.
Biggest eye opener for me is that the triple R link is available in purple 🤣
My shakedown ride yesterday with no volume spacer saw me reach full travel. I'll do another couple of rides before maybe thinking about trying with a small spacer.
Ah yeah, sorry read am9 as a9.
Would love it if there was the option to have the standard linkage in colour like Nicolai do. Orange linkage and orange cable guides on the gloss raw would look great.
Seems like on the AM9 it brings it down from 49%.
However there’s some significant creaking coming from somewhere around the pivot areas which I’m not happy about and haven’t had time to try and diagnose yet. Think I’ll contact Bird direct to see if they’ve got any ideas or heard of it elsewhere
I also had this on my 9C after a ride or 2 - The larger diameter collet bolt wasn't torqued up enough. I've done it up to spec and it seems to have gone away for now, but I haven't ridden it enough to know if it's just going to come loose again.
Ah nice one good info flatpack. However, and excuse my ignorance, which bolt do you mean? I will check them all and grease pivots etc anyway
AFAIR the largest collet is on the chainstay pivot.
Yeah the chainstay pivot, just above the BB. The one you have to take the cranks off to get to!
Cheers. Just took the cranks off and checked the various pivots. All very dry and graunchy on the way out so cleaned and greased them. Torqued back up hopefully this will have sorted it. The BB shells weren't torqued in fully either.
This bike is on my radar but it would be very upsetting it creaked constantly. Current bike has been silent for over 3 years with no grief whatsoever. I can't go back to something that sounds like a haunted staircase.
Very interested to hear ongoing reports after these things have had some abuse in crap weather.
Indeed. I'm hoping this will sort it for a good while now. The only time my old Spitfire got creaky was when the pivot bearings were overdue replacement, entirely my fault.
I’ve had my Aether 9C built up for about 2 weeks now. I’ve got about 120 km and about 3800m of climb/ascent. Enough to get a decent flavour, but not enough to become intimately acquainted.
Build as per pic.
Frame only from Bird, donor forks from the hardtail, but mostly an internet acquired build where bits were cheapest. I saw the writing on the wall for component supply in January and acted then to get exactly what I wanted.
Standout features – Float X2 – for me, far and away better than the DPX2 on my previous bike – but it’s difficult to isolate the shock from the frame rate. Which is different too.
Some background – I built a Banshee Prime V2 in 2017 as my ‘tough trail bike’. It’s the bike intended to be used for big days in the hills, away days to uplift venues and generally the more aggro side of riding, it must also be capable of doing the more benign riding like local lock-down woods. It did all of these things but excelled at the lairy end at the cost of feeling dull and unrewarding on the easier stuff. I used it less and less and wasn’t happy with it in the middle ground either.
Part of this I feel was its weight (34.5lbs) and part of it was, I think, suspension rate. Geometry was also markedly different from my bleeding edge new-skool LLS hardtail, which I love. I’m a paid up member of new skool geometry and thinking and decided that change was required.
I needed a bike to match the brief above, but that felt livelier and was more rewarding to be ridden on the daily drives. There wasn’t much about with the geometry that I wanted that wasn’t ‘punch-you-in-the-cock-expensive’, but I hadn’t really registered the release of the 9c because it came a bit too early in my considerations. I tested a friends V2 SC Hightower almost back to back with another friends Aether 9 very shortly after release of the alu version and could tell very little difference between the two, so bought the cheapest, which allowed me to spec some fox aftermarket instead of Rockshox.
I’m a reluctant home mechanic. Reluctant insofar as I’m reluctant to have only the acceptable minimum for a passable job to be undertaken at a shop, even by a decent mechanic, when I have the luxury of time and vested interest on my side. This means that before I built it, I applied the invisiframe gloss kit to the frame (the finish matches the invisiframe perfectly) and stripped and packed all of the bearing pivots before I even waved any components at it.
Bearings seats were clearly greased, but as with most mass manufacture bearings, there was plenty of void space for extra grease in the bearings themselves. I took the opportunity to get as much sticky thick stuff as I could in there. The pivot collet bolts appear decent and there was threadlock everywhere there was meant to be. Tech documents say ‘grease everything’ but not everything was – notably collets. I have some reservations about the whole system developing creaks, but time will tell.
Build went fine. There was some confusion about the 37mm size seatclamp. Not many about, and Bird sell the slightly smaller hope 36.4mm, which fits in Q/R model, but not the fixed bolt one, which whilst notionally the same size, doesn’t. Don’t do what I did and buy a 36.4mm seatclamp from another brand because it won’t fit. Also, there is very little space indeed for a chain guide. I needed to modify my Funn Zippa and also space it out. – not uncommon for bikes with a pivot behind/above the BB, but worth bearing in mind.
This is an ML and I am 182cm. Bird say I should be on and L and I can see I would be able to easily ride both, but I’m choosing a touch smaller for jibby, tight natural singletrack in the south west and a slightly easier bike to move about, hopefully combatting the naturally vaguer feeling of a full bouncer.
This is my first carbon bike of any kind. Holding the frame in its wrapper felt like I was unwrapping a Fisher Price kids toy, but as soon as I built and rode it, I completely forgot about it.
It’s a fairly aggro build and comes in at 33.5 lbs with decent rubber. It would be a 1lb lighter again just by putting on a Pike and a non-piggy back air shock on it. I’m running Zee Brakes and aluminium rimmed wheels, so you could probably save another 0.5lbs just shifting to modern 4 pots and carbon rims and if you dropped the tyre size you’d probably get another 0.5 to 0.75lbs back again. A build like that would make a lovely lighter weight trail build, but at 92kgs, I’ll keep it the way I have it.
Direction changes are particularly prompt, because its stiffer than the Banshee and its response doesn’t appear to lag as much. It climbs very nearly as nicely as my Ti hardtail, but has better traction (obviously) and there appears to be very little concession to the gods of compromise for packing 130mm of rear wheel travel. This akin to discovering new laws of physics for an old trail hacker like me. I think the suspension kinematic is responsible for this.
I’m a competent, decently fast trail rider, but I’m no pro racer and nor am I landing massive jumps. In general, I like fork/shock rates that are only a bit progressive. One of the reasons I bought the X2 was because I was concerned that too much progressivity in the frame would limit what I wanted from the bike and I could dial some of it out with the shock. To date I’ve settled on 1 spacer out of 4 in the air spring. I have an inkling that 2 will be better, but I’m currently watching how it behaves, since I’ve not had a chance to boost it over the larger of the obstacles that I’m comfortable with yet.
It’s certainly not quite as an implacable a descender in fearful chunder as the Banshee Prime was, but it’s only a small difference (mitigated by the X2 I think) and the pay-off for general pedalling about, trying to climb janky ascents that shouldn’t be possible and stuffing it into tight turns is worth it, and it still accelerates nicely off the back slopes of drops and doubles and always seem to have a little something for what’s coming next. It’s a really well considered bike and seems to represent the current apex of Bird’s learning and design evolution – the suspension and geometry really mesh together seamlessly. I’m really pleased that its not dull or soggy but appears to have given up only a little on the slightly rougher side of things. I’m happily using it in the local trail network and enjoying it. If I was still on the Prime it would be a bit sluggish and ponderous and I would be…well…a bit bored.
This is the aggro trail bike I wanted in 2017.
Good write-up. It’s nice to hear reports from owners rather than bike-testers.
Got to ask: any negatives?
Double post.
Theres virtually nothing written about these, so I figure if someone else can benefit from my experience, why not? I would have valued anything I could find beyond the marketing blurb when I was researching.
The OP has highlighted cable movement under the BB. That has already slightly worn the exit holes, so I need to stabilise that.
The chainstay protector was stuck on with some double sided tape that peeled off almost immediately on the first ride and required gluing back on.
The chainstay BB pivot yoke is a bit of a mud shelf, but again, hardly earth shattering stuff for a bike of this design.
No much else so far. Its early days yet.
'Professional' bike reviews all sound the same these days, I find them only useful if they find a real duffer or if you're not so sure when scrutancising a spec list and geometry table.
I love your build @Scienceofficer. A bit chunkier than mine but a similar ethos. Looks like you'll be riding some trails I know too, for which I'm sure it will be perfect.
Checking again the Bird spec sheet they state the ISCG tabs are set back by 1mm. Like this it is simple to adjust further outward with a couple of washers. Spacing the other way wouldn't be so easy, so it looks like a wise but not well publicised feature.
I've been getting on well now with the DPX2 and no spacers. Starting to ride harder and find the boundries of the Pike fork... I have added some LSC and think I'll add a second token too. The bike has felt almost limitless so far. It's seriously impressed me on the tech climbs now that I'm becoming used to the low BB, clearing stuff I didn't think likely time and time again.
For me at the moment the only negatives are that:
my main bearing is already shot... not sure why. Maybe it's just bad luck.
cable routing under BB isn't so neat. A large loop of slack is needed to allow for full compression, and that does add friction to the shift.
I should hopefully have a 9a build and ride report to contribute in the next couple weeks, have a ccdb air for the rear rather than a fox or rockshox option, and Formula Selva forks. Hopeing the double barrel plays nice with the leverage curve (has come tuned from j-tech so should be in the right region)
Coming off a 2014 Knolly warden excited to try a modern 29er!
There are indeed a load of bullshit pro reviews around these days which are just spec lists - they dont provide anything useful about the character of the bike at all.
The bearings in mine were EZO - decent Japanese bearings, but not max complement. If yours are the same, you've either got a duff one of something else that feels like a bearing failure is up.
Either way, let us know!
I did have quite a few pedal strikes actually, with the 140mm fork. Not so much to be infuriating, but certainly less so now the 150mm air spring is on. I have noticed I'm making tech climbs better and have completed one particularly tricky set of anaerobic stairs with 90° turn followed by two suitcase sized rock hops and a final short but max effort slope that has always eluded completion in one move.
I'm especially delighted by this aspect of the bike, because I really enjoy the 'I don't know if I can get a bike up that' aspect of technical climbing.
I find bike reviews by journalists to be pretty useless. They ride and review a £10k carbon superbike on Monday and then something a fifth of the price a few days later. Of course their opinion is going to be swayed.
Also, they are often ex racers or pro's so their idea of what a bike needs is fairly different to a 40 something fat bloke who minces around the red routes on the weekend.
Real world reviews from people who own the bikes are far more useful.
@scienceofficer - where in the South West are you based / what trails are you riding on it?
I’m on an Aether 7 currently and plan to keep it at least a year more - but I keep looking at the gloss black A9c and wondering if that might be my next full suss bike. So far I’ve found 29ers a bit dull to ride (but fast) - but it sounds like the A9 is usefully poppy and fun.
Edit - on the collets / bearing front I’ve had no dramas with either the Aeris 145 I had or the Aether. The only time I had some creaking was after jet washing the Aeris - which isn’t something I usually do. It was the main pivot but I just popped the cranks and chainstays off and gave it a clean / grease and it didn’t ever creak again.
Good to know about the collets Joe.
I'm outside Weston-super-Mare. So far I've punted it around Worlebury woods, plenty of the Mendip stealth network and the Quantocks.
This morning it even rolled around Ashton Court with my daughter.
but it sounds like the A9 is usefully poppy and fun.
For me yes, but I'm tallish, strongish, and happen to think that 'throwing shapes' is good fun.
YMMV.
I was down at Rowberrow last night in the trail centre bit playing on the Aether 7. Only visited the place for the first time on the weekend and couldn’t wait until this weekend to go and try most of it out properly. Ace fun - the best since the start of lockdown!
I’m happy to throw my bike around and with the longer / slacker Aeris I had to really concentrate on keeping weight forward to get front wheel grip. Went down a size on the Aether and it now feels perfect for me. I’m 5’9 and riding a medium.
I do like a bike to feel pretty lively even on mundane trails. The Aether is pretty much there - although for stuff like Ashton Court I prefer my hardtail Marino 🥰
Thanks for all your notes and posts. I have a medium in green - I'm 172cm and, same as you, I wanted to go smaller rather than bigger for flickability. I demoed both to confirm - Bird make that very easy - and the more I ride mine the more I feel it was the right choice.
What did you do to stabilise the wear around the BB cable guide holes? I'm getting some wear there too and wouldn't mind nipping that in the bud.
Cheers,
So far, I've taken the 'put a sticker under there' approach and they're happily wearing their way through the sticker, which happens to be carbon.
It can't be good for the lines to continuously fret against the frame though, sticker or otherwise.
I need to fashion something to grip the cables as they come out of the mainframe but I'm still stewing on a solution.
Cheers. I might try a sticker too.
It needs clamping or wedging. Maybe a rubber washer would do it, but I worry it might get jammed in there. You know the routing better than I do cos you built yours, and I think it’ll be a while before I’ll want to strip mine down - having too much fun riding it 🙂
Some possibly useful cable routing grommets available online...
I'm following as I'm interested in these as well (would be considering running a 130mm fork)...
Re: the cable holes/wearing - how about something like hot glue (the sticks that melt and dribble off the table onto your thigh when you're stopping the smallest child stick a rod up their nose. That stuff)?
Might be permanent enough to hold, but pretty easy to remove when needed.
Shame that something's needed to sort this. Bird are usually on the ball with this sort of thing (speaking as a twice-bird owner).
Rich
I made a stainless sleeve for my asr 5 to stop the cable sawing though.
I went with a Lizard Skins carbon leather (whatever that is) patch, cut to shape. It looks OK so far, but I'll contact Bird about it too to see what they say.
Anyone got a picture of this? Is it just at the hole at the bottom of the downtube?
That’s right. The cable holes at the bottom of the down tube. It’s the rearward edges, closest to the stays.
I think it wouldn’t happen if the hoses were clamped, because that could keep enough slack below the BB for suspension flex. But they’re free to slide, so flex pulls the hoses out, and the hose stiffness pushes them back in when the suspension returns.
I wouldn’t say it was bad at all. Just not ideal. I think the stickers should sort it.
My Levo had a similar issue on the cable coming out of the chainstay for the mech - I put a small cable tie tightly around it to stop it sliding back into the hole.
Yes, exactly what I did too. A zip tie on the cable keeps the slack where it is needed. It's a surprisingly long loop of cable required though.
Thanks, both! (and for your build and ride notes too, @the00).
So the zip tie itself didn’t bash or rub against the frame and cause any marking? I guess they’re softish plastic. Sounds like a good option.
@the00 it’s right there in your build notes! I must have not twigged when I first read them (before I got my 9c, to be fair).
The zip tie solution is what Ive settled on too. It doesn't satisfy my OCD, but at least its functional.
Maybe a zip-tied grommet…
Thanks, all. I love the bike (outstanding value for my full build, and exactly what I wanted) so it’s a niggle I can live with. I appreciate the advice 👍
Stickers fell off. Cable ties holding.
My sticker is still there, but the cable ties are doing the heavy lifting.
My 9c is seeing some proper use now after a slow start. It stood a day of Staunton riding perfectly well last weekend and has stood some rocky Mendip riding since the end of may.
Time for a update, and it's been a quite a journey, but my set-up is kind of dialed now and I'm comfortable with the bike.
In my quest for a quiet bike I stripped the frame to find the rattle... it turned out that I was correct that one of the cable tubes within the main frame was rattling, and my zip tie to the BB shell was not sufficient. I emailed Bird, suggesting that I could repair it myself with expanding foam. They offered it would be better if I returned the frame to them. Immediately I take a hit because the new frame will not have Invisiframe protection. But I packed it up, and they arranged shipping. Sadly shipping from and to Italy and the inevitable customs delay led to 3 months without a frame from them.
In the meantime I moved all my parts back to my SolarisMax... which was then stolen. Nightmare. So in May I had to source and purchase a whole new bike's worth of parts. This did give me a chance to the spec a bit:
I went for a Lyrik for in place of the Pike. Very glad I did, it's a superb fork.
Nukeproof bars and stem rather than Renthal & Syntace. I upped stem length from 30mm to 35mm.
DT XMC1500 wheels rather than XMC1200 to save a bit of cash.
Bikeyoke 213mm dropper instead of 9point8, very happy so far. The remote is better than previous Wolftooth, and the action is wonderful .
Some Shimano gear parts to again save cash.
165mm cranks.
When the new frame did arrive I was frustrated to find that this entirely new one rattled just the same as the first one had. To be fair to Bird at this point they recognised my frustration and offered me the opportunity to return for a refund, return for new, or to support me to make a repair and make a small refund to account for my time. After so long without a bike I took the option to make a repair, and filled the down tube with expanding foam just like I had first considered. It was a messy process, but I weighed the frame before and after, and the weight gain was minimal.
I then rebuilt the bike, but experienced significant drivetrain noise. It sounded like a BB creak, but after quite some investigation it turned out to be the new chain making a noise on the very lightly used Burgtec chainring. I changed the BB from Hope to Sram DUB to ensure correct chainline, and changed the chainring for a Sram one.
As a further noise elimination method I have run a bit of waxed string inside the frame tubes for the cables. This takes up the extra space inside the tube to prevent rattling, and a small zip tie at each opening holds the string and the cable housing in place.
Things I like:
Geometry. I'm totally sold on the low BB and short chainstay.
Frame strength and stiffness. My build is on the chunky side, but the bike feels almost unstoppable now. I could have chosen a longer travel bike for my riding, but this is handling chunky trail verys nicely.
Suspension. Difficult for me to make a comparison because I am coming from a hardtail, but it feels pretty good to me. It is progressive and taught rather than plush, but always feels well controlled. Climbing traction is ace. I am still running the Fox DPX2 shock quite firm with 25% sag, and no volume tokens. Now I get more confident and gain speed on the bike I think I might try and volume spacers. The 150mm Lyrik on the front is fantastic.
Things that could be better:
Cable routing. The rear shifting is never better than average, which I put down to the extra loops and bends of the outer. The rearmost cable exit on the chainstay comes out the outermost side of the frame, which means that the cable is vulnerable to snagging and damage. It even interferes with my foot sometimes. This is exaggerated my the Shimano rear mech, on which the cable stop is angled facing outwards.
Frame protection. The downtube protector only covers the flat part of the tube, and does not extend around the tube profile. It has twice been damaged by rock strikes, the last time slicing it completely in half. I have now resorted to a manky piece of old tyre zip tied to the frame. The chainstay protector isn't much better. The seatstay has some appreciable evidence of chainslap damage, so I have made my own protector frame innertube and double sided tape.
Bearings and assembly. Having now stripped and rebuilt two different frames, some bearings on both have been notchy even when new. The bearings are ok quality from NSK, but I suspect the assembly is a bit crude and some of them are damaged. I have replaced the pivot bearing and the chainstay bearings already because they degraded quickly. I have fitted Enduro LLU MAX BO bearings, but I think stainless would be better. I recommend all owners to disassemble the rear suspension for bearing inspection because until you get you fingers on the bearing it is impossible to assess if it is spinning freely or not. The pivot hardware is average, but comes with almost no grease or threadlock. I have broken the front shock bolt already, the male part. The cross-section of the bolt at the base of the hex socket is tiny. I have changed one shock bushing, which I think saw better than average life span.
Overall I'd score the frame a solid 4/5. Given my time again I might choose something different, but now I have it and it's working nicely I'm definitely going to ride it hard for a few years.
Photos on Instagram, but not sure how to link them now:
https://www.instagram.com/hark_at_the_birds/