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I'm currently working on a single speed project. I want to keep it simple so don't want to install too many moving parts. To tension the chain I have two options:
1. Add a half link to my existing chain
2. Install a spring loaded tensioner
I would prefer to go with the half link as it is a much neater solution. The only problem is the likelihood of the chain stretching and causing looseness. My chain has been used for some time so I'm guessing it won't be as prone to stretching as a new one, given I don't fit it on too tight. But I could be wrong?
If the former doesn't work I would buy a chain tensioner and use that. Though I would prefer to use the half link! I don't mind the 'hassle' involved either because I have the tools and I enjoy working on my bike!
Anyone tried this before? Please let me know of your experiences. I'd appreciate any help or advice. Thanks!
Tried it and it worked well for about 3 weeks when it started slipping. All old, worn parts so I can't say for sure what the issue was but a sprung tensioner fixed it and carried on working for years
Philcentric or Exzentriker bit costa lotta $$$$$$$
Thanks for the input nickjb. Did you use the tensioner to push up or down on the chain? If I fit one I would like it to push the chain up. But I'm not sure if you can do that with spring loaded tensioners..
Not a spring loaded tensioner, but a bolt up one with a roller? My DMR simple tension seeker basically went onto an old drivechain, almost straight to full adjustment, been fine ever since. I occasionally retension it, a bit, to feel like I am doing something. But as it is always at full tension it really is pointless, it just keeps working...
I would go straight to a tensioner.
My mate and I had SS bikes last year,he went for a BMX chain and half link adjustment,I went for a tensioner ( non sprung roller )
I fitted it so that it pushed the chain up ,rather than the push down examples that I had seen.
My theory was that it would keep more chain on the rear sprocket.
He lost his chain a lot ,I didn't 🙂
Never understood why anyone cares about neatness on a bike - its not like you will be looking
IMHO fit a tensioner, get sliding dropouts , get an EBB
I'm not sure if you can do that with spring loaded tensioners
You can with a Surly
Thanks for the replies, it helps a lot! I'll probably go with fasthaggis' advice and get a roller. I like the idea of pushing up on the chain rather than down. Seems as though it does the best job and it definitely looks better.
A half link in the chain may still mean it's too long or too short.
Get a roller tensioner.
Using a half link/or not will mean you'll be able to get the tensioner to push the chain up rather than down, which is a better solution.
I use a ghost ring for those periods when the chain is too slack, but still too tight to lose a half link
YESS ETR-B tensioner FTW
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That ^ BB mounted version looks neat.
I use a mech-hanger mounted DMR STS, and a half-link chain, and it's worked well in all kinds of mud / water. It's running over a Surly chainring and a Surly cog, both of which are pretty hefty with long teeth so it gives me no trouble, but I have had problems with a halflink chain not really sitting very well on narrower rings.
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Does anyone know if the DMR (or other) non-sprung tensioners work with bolt-on hubs?
Pretty much the same as ir_bandito but using a Blackspire Stinger-
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I magine the ones that are mounted on the mech hanger can be a faff when removing and refitting the rear wheel.
I'd go with a tensioner. I've used the non-sprung, hanger-mounted ones with no probs in the past.
+1 for the DMR STS IMHO. Half link is only a temporary solution at best.
I presume some of these bb mounted tensioners are on iscg tabs and use the slotted holes for adjustability?
How do they work without tabs? Just clamp up?
I`ve got a Surly singulator for sale if needed
I presume some of these bb mounted tensioners are on iscg tabs and use the slotted holes for adjustability?How do they work without tabs? Just clamp up?
I used a regular BB style Stinger, just nipped up in the right place. The roller is on a slot, that's always gave enough tension as a chain has worn.