My search for a single speed MTB is finally nearing closure
I managed to snag myself a Surly 1x1 frame and fork for a (I think) pretty decent price (pictures coming as soon as the frame lands on my doorstep)
Time to embark on my first bike build…It’s going to be a slow one with bits (probably used) being bought on a monthly basis.
I’ve got a lot of learning to do in regards to what fits what although I THINK I have a reasonable enough grasp on most things
If anyone can advise, I’m hoping to fit a Hope bottom bracket and a set of SLX cranks (hope bb because…why not?! SLX cranks because I have them on my main MTB so going with something I know) is this doable on this frame? I’m having a bit of a time understanding what I need to consider when sorting chainlines and what will or won’t work and what I do or don’t need when it comes to fitting bottom brackets and cranks
Currently watching a Chris King 1 1/18 threadless headset (you got to start somewhere, right?!
Wish me luck…I’m going in…
You can fit a Hope BB to a Surly frame ... if it's the right interface. I think you'll have a 73mm BSA threaded BB, so you'll need the correct BB to fit this. And make sure it's for a 24mm Shimano spindle.
Oh, and good luck. You'll find it's simpler than you feared.
Everything there sounds fine and agrees with the specs on the site:
https://surlybikes.com/bikes/legacy/1x1_2012-2014#spec-geo
Chainline is easy, either fit a singlespeed specific hub and space the chainring or use a normal hub with a singlespeed spacer kit and line it up at that end.
As far as extra stuff goes I'd get a chain tug on there. The cheapo ones on eBay will be fine, you only really need to tension the drive side but two keeps things even. Once you have a ratio you're happy with get a nice steel chainring and sprockets from Bikepunx, they're seriously chunky (but not stupidly so) and will last.
If you don't get the King then I wouldn't worry, any cartridge bearing headset will be good enough. If you want bling then you can do worse than Hope, otherwise an FSA. I don't rate Cane Creek 40's, I have one and the fork crown is stupidly tight plus doesn't seal worth a ****.
Thanks guys, three replies and a whole bunch of questions answered
I was looking at SS specific hubs as I wasn’t 100% normal hubs would work so well but makes sense if using a spacer kit and dare I say, easier to get it right without worrying too much where the front chainring is, doing it that way potentially just cut my potential wheel costs in half also which I’ll take as a bonus
If using “normal” hubs with spacers does it necessarily matter what type of freehub body it is?
Looking at halo supadrive hubs for the most part, again, have them on my main bike so sticking with what I know and what I know I like (ooh that noise…)
I have been looking at chain tensioners too, mostly eyeing up surly tuggnuts but if I’m honest, if only for now, I’ll go with something a bit cheaper and then possibly splash for something a bit more “bling” at a later date
Wondering if hope might be a better option for headset…will have a shop around, see what I can find
Pretty sure, the chainline / bb / crank issue was the only thing giving me real grief until now so thanks again, appreciate the help, maybe brakes, adaptors and rotor sizes but that can wait until I’m in a position to buy
Tracking says frame will be with me tomorrow / today / Friday and I’m so excited I think I might shit ha ha
It's nice to have matching BB and headset IMHO. Hope headsets seem pretty good to me.
If using “normal” hubs with spacers does it necessarily matter what type of freehub body it is?
Not really but if it's aluminium I'd get a sprocket with a thicker base to help stop it digging in.
or use a normal hub with a singlespeed spacer kit and line it up at that end.
This works really well. Done this on the commuter with a Surly spacer kit and one of their cassette cogs too. Looks good for the kind of set up.
On the other singlespeed I’ve got a Hope singlespeed hub on it, much neater solution but much more spendy so depends on your budget really.
As others have said, chainline on a SS is dead east to set up.
Thanks all, on the fence a little about the hub
Single speed because that’s the point, regular hub with a spacer kit because it’ll (probably) cost a lot less
I guess realistically, if I’m going to do it, might as well do it properly so will probably end up going SS specific
Unless an unbeatable deal comes up in the meantime, chances are, the wheels will be the final purchase anyway (
time to save blah blah) unless there are reasons I SHOULD be buying them sooner than last?!
I guess it depends what kind of build you’re going for and the kind of riding you plan to do on it.
If you want it to be a bike to thrash about on and don’t mind it being a bit heavy or knocked about then I’d personally look for a second hand set of wheels and pop a SS conversion and spacer kit on them. That’s what I did with the commuter and wheels plus kit and sprocket cost under £100.
Compared to the “nice” SS I have which is Hope hubs hand built on to Velocity Dually rims which were at least £400 (can’t remember exact price mind).
Don’t forget to make your mind up on what fork you’re going to run (presumably the one that came with the frame) as that will have a bearing on the hub compatibility.
Anyway, it’s a really satisfying process building a bike up from the frame, here’s the commuter which I built this year.
@tuboflard that looks amazing, good work sir
This will be my “I’m not taking the geared mtb today” bike so much the same riding, bit of on, bit of off road, hills here and there, general mtb riding but without all the jumps and big drops for the most part
Fork that’s coming with The frame is a QR rigid, would I be wrong in assuming that if I bought bouncy forks an axle adaptor wouldn’t do the trick?!
Again, there’s time for decisions on forks as the wheels will be the last purchase so forks (if I go bouncy) just before so they can dictate hubs to a certain extent
Never built a bike without taking a box of parts to the shop and saying “make this lot work please” and I have largely always been a “have bike, will ride without paying attention to components” kind of guy so this is a welcome challenge on many levels I think
Just make sure your hubs are convertible and you'll be fine regardless.
Is it tapered headset? If not be careful buying forks if you go for suspension up front
Straight steerer 1 1/18” plenty of 100mm forks that would work…unless I’ve misread something…
@squirrelking that was my kind of thinking
Cheers @donslow! I’d probably stick with the rigid forks that came with it; much prefer riding singlespeed with rigid forks for some reason.
If you get a front wheel with a non-boost Hope Hub, you can run that with QR or Bolt Through forks with an easy endcap swap for about £15 (or even boost bolt-through, but the kit is slightly more).
Quote often find a front wheel built around a Hope Pro 2 hub for pennies on ebay/marketplace if it's a relatively unfashionable width/brand rim.
If you have an old Shimano cup and cone bearing rear wheel knocking around then you can just rebuild on a solid threaded axle - you don't then need a chain tug if the wheel is held in with great big nuts.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/weldtite-chrome-moly-10-mm-axle-175-mm/
Any decent lbs or even Halfords used to have them.
Not many decent 1 1/8 suspension forks around.
Re the hubs - there's no real advantage to going SS. Either you'll end up with Hope's heavier trials hub and still need a spacer kit or you'll need a screw on freewheel which are expensive (for a nicely sealed one) and a pain to change (and expensive) if you want to change ratios.
Not many decent 1 1/8 suspension forks around.
I see that trotted out continually. We own 7 mountain bikes (including frames) as a household and only one has a tapered headset. I see decent forks all the time, there might even be a set of Revs in the classified right now.
A set of Revs/Pikes with dual air and U Turn that haven't been abused will still be good, light and easily serviced.
OP - I've just had to retire my 1*1 after nearly 10 years of abuse and neglect, having been kept running with the cheapest bits possible.
The one thing I splashed out on was a surly tugnut - which is now redundant. It's maybe a little past its best, but if you're interested drop me a PM and maybe we can do a deal (can't believe they're >£30 new!).
As far as the rest of the build is concerned, don't worry about getting specific SS stuff. Standard wheels with an HG freehub, a good sprocket with a wide base (gusset double six have served me very well) and some spacers and you're good to go. Get a strong chain (doesn't need to be expensive) like the KMC K1.
And rigid forks. Always rigid for SS.
Thank again all, lots of options really in regards to wheels so definitely something to chew on whilst I collect other bits first
RE: gearing, I’m Thinking that one of the below options would be a good starting point, if I’ve worked it out right and read correctly, 50(ish) gear inches is a decent place to start
32 & 17
34 & 18
36 & 19
Frame and forks landed today so without further ado…the obligatory pictures
https://ibb.co/NnLRmCd
https://ibb.co/wSDYdFk
https://ibb.co/9VNYprV
Gear inches are also dependant on tyre size, this is my go-to calculator:
Bear in mind you can also run odd numbered chainrings.
I'm in the middle of refurbing a 1*1 too. Will be running out with an old school pace rigid rc31 fork
